Cooper-Hewitt Museum Library

DOROTHY MESERVE BILLINGS

1979

Smithsonian Institution Libraries

Smithsonian Libraries

Adopted by

Harold and Barbara Walsh

November 16, 2016

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GODEY’S

Lady’s Book Receipts

AND

Household Hints.

CAREFULLY SELECTED AND ARRANGED.

PHILADELPHIA: EVANS, STODDART & CO. 1870.

Entered according to Act of Congress, in the year 1870, by EVANS, STODDART & CO.,

In the Office of the Librarian of Congress at Washington, D. C.

S. A. GEORGE & CO., STEREOTYPERS AND PRINTERS, PHILADELPHIA.

PREFACE.

In offering to the public the present vol- ume of valuable receipts, we feel that we are supplying a long-felt and urgent want. The thousands of subscribers who for years have found the Lady’s Book the most valuable work in their library, can now make use of hundreds of the best receipts , without being obliged to refer to several numbers of the magazine to find the special directions of which they are in need.

It has been in answer to frequent urgent inquiries of how and where to find certain directions, that the present volume has been carefully selected and compiled from the best of the receipts published in the Lady’s Book, most of them being contributed for that peri- odical only, and not to be found in any other

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PEEPACE.

publication. These are from the practical experience of old housekeepers, and have all been carefully tested before publication.

In the present compact shape, the subscri- bers to the Lady’s Book will recognize many old favorites, and doubtless find new ones that have been forgotten or overlooked, when spread over several years of the magazine.

No trouble has been spared in the endeavor to render it complete and useful by the addi- tion of a complete alphabetical index, that will aid the housekeeper in search of any subject treated, to turn at once to the page wanted, without hunting through the whole book.

TABLE OF CONTENTS

CHAPTER. page

I. — Soups 17

II. — Fish 35

III. — Sauces and Pickles 47

IV. — Meats 79

y. — Vegetables and Salads . . . . 145

VI. — Puddings and Paste y .... 188

VII. — Creams and Desserts .... 245

VIII. — Preserves and Jellies .... 273

IX. — Butter, Cheese, and Eggs . . . 296

X. — Bread, Biscuit, Cakes, and Yeast . . 309

XI.— Beverages ....... 379

XII. — Invalid Cookery 406

XIII. — Miscellaneous 414

XIV. — ^Weights and Measures .... 429

Alphabetical Index 431

SOUPS. How to make soups .		PAGE 17	Nursery soup . . . Economical veal soup		PAGE 23 23
Stocks for soups . .	, ,	18	Imitation of mock	turtle
Good stock for ordinary pur-	19	soup		23
poses . . . . .		Veal gravy soup . .	. .	24
White stock . . .		19	White soup . . . .	. -.	24
Economical stock	. ,	20	Calf’s-head soup . ,	. .	25
Rich, strong stock	, ,	20	Vermicelli soup . .	. .	25
Plain beef soup . .	. .	21	Salt meat soup . .	. .	26
Beef soup ....		21	Chicken broth . . .		26
Mutton soup . . .		22	Brown chicken soup	. .	26
Mutton broth . . .		22	Partridge soup . .	. .	27

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4

TABLE OP CONTENTS.

			PAGE	SAUCES AND PICKLES.
Rabbit soup . . .			27				PAGE
Carrot soup . . .			27	Sauces			47
Vegetable soup . .			28	Fish sauces . . .			48
Clear gravy soup			28	Mushroom catsup			49
Gumbo			29	Tomato catsup . .			50
Okra or gumbo soup			30	Tomato marmalade .			50
Southern gumbo soup			30	Belsize tomato sauce			50
Soup for the million	»		30	Tomato vinegar . .			51
Lobster soup . . .			31	Lemon pickle . . .			51
New England chowder			31	Chutney ....			52
Oyster soup . . .			32	Browning ....			53
Clam soup ....			32	Mushroom powder .			53
Bisque of lobster . .			32	Fish sauce ....			54
Coloring for soups			33	Tomato sauce . . .			54
Roast veal and chicken	soup	34	Mushroom sauce . .			54
				Bread sauce . . .			55
FISH.				Sauce for fowls . .			55
				Sauce for boiled poultry		55
To bake a large fish whole		35	Savory sauce for a	roast
Rock fish ....			35	goose			56
Stuffed fish , . .			35	Giblet sauce . . .			56
To fry trout . . .			36	Sauce for wild duck			56
Sturgeon ....			36	Venison ravigote sauce		56
Fried codfish and halibut		36	Green mint sauce			57
Fried eels ....			37	Sauce Robert . . .			57
Potted salmon . .			37	Celery sauce . . .			57
To pickle fish . . .			37	Horseradish sauce			58
To pickle herring			38	Potato sauce . . .			58
Salt fish ....				Rice sauce ....			58
Salt fish with parsnips			39	Wine sauce . . .			59
Picked up codfish			39	Madeira sauce . .			59
Codfish balls . . .			40	Pudding sauce, No. 1			69
Cod sounds . . .			40	Pudding sauce, No. 2			59
Fish cakes . . .			40	Lemon sauce . . .			59
Kedjeree ....			41	Orange sauce . . .			69
Lobster patties . .			41	Sweet egg sauce . .			60
Lobster rissoles . .			42	Sweet pudding sauce			60
To fry oysters . .			42	Pickles			60
Pickled oysters . .			42	To pickle string beans			61
Oyster stew . . .			43	To pickle red cabbage			62
German receipt for oyster		Pickled nasturtiums			63
powder ....			43	To pickle cabbage a	good
Crumbed oysters . .			43	color			63
Scalloped oysters			44	To pickle mushrooms			63
Oyster forcemeat . .			44	Small onion pickle .			63
Oyster patties and batter		45	Spiced onions . . .			64
Oyster omelette . .			45	Pickled onions . .			64
Oj^ster sauce . . .			45	To pickle beet-root .			64
Clam fritters . . .			45	Carolina chow-chow			65
Boiled crabs . . .			45	Pickle chow-chow			66
Terrapins ....			46	Chow-chow ....			66

TABLE OF CONTENTS,

5

Old Virginia chow-chow .

India pickle

Yellow pickle

Pickled red cabbage . .

Artichokes, pickled . . .

Gherkins

To make lemon pickle . .

Tomato catsup, No. 1 . .

Tomato catsup, No. 2 . .

Tomato soy

Ripe cucumber pickle . .

Green cucumber pickle . .

Pickled eggs. No. 1 . • .

Pickled eggs. No. 2 . . .

Piccalillie

Pickled walnuts, No. 1 . . Pickled walnuts, No. 2 . .

Sweet peach pickle . . .

Sweet pickle

Sweet tomato pickle . .

Green tomato pickle . .

Tomatoes

Spiced tomatoes ....

Mixed pickle

Cold catsup . . . . .

Pepper catsup ....

MEATS.

Stewed beef

Rump of beef , , . . .

Spanish steak

Beef stewed with onions . Brisket of beef stuffed . . A la mode beef ....

Beef cutlets

Fillet of beef with mush- rooms

Fillet of beef

English beef pie .... Beefsteak pie ..... Beefsteak pudding . . .

Beefsteak smothered with

onions

Minced beef

Beef balls

Mock venison of corned beef Hash balls of corned beef . Yorkshire pudding with

roast beef

Corned beef, boiled . . . Corned beef hash . . .

PAOB

Pickling beef 86

Potted ox tongue ... 86

Tongue toast ..... 87

Tongue ....... 87

Spiced tripe 87

Potted beef ..... 88

Bubble and squeak ... 88

Beef cakes. No. 1 ... 89

Beef cakes. No. 2 • • . 89

Beef croquettes .... 89

To roll loin of mutton . . 90

Panned mutton .... 90

Mutton cutlets .... 90

Mutton cutlets k la bene . 92

Shoulder of mutton ... 92

Mutton prepared like venison 93 Saddle of mutton k la Portu- guese 93

Cold mutton 94

Minced mutton .... 97

Baked minced mutton . . 79

Browned minced mutton . 98

To roast lamb 98

Fore quarter of lamb ... 98

Leg of lamb . . . . • 99

Ribs of lamb 99

Garnish and vegetables for

roast lamb 99

To stew a breast of lamb . 99

To boil a neck or breast of

lamb ....... 100

Lamb chops 100

Lamb cutlets and spinach . 101

Loin, neck, and breast of

lamb 101

Broiled lamb steak . . . 101

Leg of lamb to boil . . . 102 Leg of lamb to roast . . 102

Boned quarter of lamb . . 102 Fricassee of lamb . . . 102

Savory lamb pie .... 103 Stewed breast of lamb with peas or cucumbers . . 103

Stewed leg of lamb . . . 104

Lamb sweetbreads . . . 104

Larded lamb 105

Chops with cucumbers . . 105

To dress kidneys . . . 105

Fried sheep kidneys . . 106

Mutton kidneys, broiled . 106

Kidney omelette .... 106

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TABLE OP CONTESTTS

Kidney h la brochette . .

Boast veal

Spiced veal

Curry of veal

Fricassee of veal ....

Veal cutlets with sweet herbs Calf s head ......

Veal chops, breaded . .

Veal cutlets with ragout . Fillet of veal, boiled . . Breast of veal with oyster

sauce •

Shoulder of veal .... Hashed calf s head . . .

Collared calf s head . . .

Tea pie of veal .... Veal pot-pie ..... Veal, minced . . . . .

Minced veal with poached

eggs

Minced veal

Fried patties

Veal forcemeat .... Veal croquettes .... Veal sausages .....

Veal rolls

Superior veal rolls . . . Veal sweetbreads ....

Sweetbreads

Fried sweetbread ....

Veal olives

Boast leg of pork . • .

Fresh pork pot-pie . . .

Pork chops

Pork steak, broiled . . .

Pork cutlets

Pork and apple fritters English raised pork pie Fresh pork pie .... Scrambled pork ....

To cure hanas

Baked ham

Ham pie

Ham omelette

Ham Toast

Omelette of ham, tongue, or

sausage

Sausages, No. 1 . . . . Sausages, No. 2 . . . . Sausage dumplings . . .

i Sausage cakes .....

PAGE

Scrapple 125

To prepare fowls for cooking 126 Fowl stewed with onions . 127

Steamed fowls 127

Fowl cutlets ..... 127

Choice fowl pudding . . 128

To bone fowls for fricassee , 128

To roast a fowl .... 128

To bake a fowl .... 129 To roast a turkey . . . 129 To bake a turkey .... 129 Stuffing for a turkey . . 130

Baked turkey ..... 130

Giblet pie 130

To fricassee small chickens 131 To broil chicken without

burning 131

Chicken pot-pie .... 132 White fricassee .... 132

To fry cold chicken . . . 132

Chicken baked in rice . . 133

Chicken puffs 133

To boil a goose .... 133 To cook partridges . . . 134 To roast partridges . . . 134

To broil partridges . . . 134 Partridge pie ..... 135

To boil partridges . . . 135 To stew partridges , . . 135 To fry partridges .... 136

Quails cured in oil . . . 136

Woodcock 136

Snipes 137

Wild ducks 137

To keep game 137

A^enison steak 138

Babbit pie 138

Boman pie 138

Potted fish and meats . . 139

Potted salmon 141

Potted lobster . . . . . 141

Potted rabbit ..... 142

Potted pigeons .... 142

Potted birds 142

To pot veal 142

Potted calves" feet . . . 143 Potted veal and bacon . . 143

VEGETABLES AND SALADS. Vegetables 145

To boil potatoes .... 145

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TABLE OF CONTENTS.

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	PAGE			PAGE
To broil potatoes ....	146	String beans for winter	use	166
Potato chips	146	To cook beans in a French
Steamed potatoes . . .	146	style		167
Baked potatoes ....	147	String beans . . .		167
Pommes de terre, a la Da-		Boiled beans . . .		168
noise .	147	Parsnips . . . .		168
Potato surprise ....	148	Broiled parsnips . .	. .	168
Mironton of potatoes . .	148	Parsnip cutlet . . .		168
Potatoes, mashed and fried	149	Parsnip fritters, No. 1	,	168
Potato rolls	151	Parsnip fritters, No. 2	. ,	169
Stewed potatoes ....	152	Fricassee of parsnips	. .	169
Browned potatoes . . .	152	Fried plantains or bananas	169
Potato fritters	152	Vegetables and sauces	,	169
New potatoes	153	Carrots		170
Potato salad .....	153	Carrot fritters . . .		170
Potato patties	153	Parsley and butter .	,	171
Potato sconces ....	153	Fried artichokes , .	. .	171
Potatoes in meat, puddings,		Summer squashes	. .	171
and pies	154	Stewed spinach . .	. .	172
B,oasted potatoes ....	154	Spinach to boil . .	. .	172
Jury pie	154	Boiled onions . . ,		173
Potato croquettes . . .	155	Buttered onions . .	. .	173
Potato pone	155	Boasted onions . .	. .	173
Stuffed potatoes . . . .	155	Flaked onions . . .		173
Pommes de terre en pyramids	156	Onions and caper sauce	.	174
Potatoes fried with batter .	156	Stewed celery . . .		174
Potatoes a la cr^me . . .	156	Fried celery . . .		174
French mashed potatoes	157	Essence of celery	. • .	174
Savory potato cakes . .	157	Vegetable oyster cakes	, ,	175
Cauliflower	157	Egg plant ....		175
Boiled cauliflower . . .	159	Boiled beets . . .		175
Cauliflower omelette . . .	160	Asparagus ....		175
Cauliflower in milk . . .	160	Stewed asparagus	,	176
Fried cauliflower ....	160	Asparagus soup . .	. ,	177
Corn balls	161	Asparagus toast . .	. ,	177
Corn oysters .....	161	Asparaygus omelette .	, .	177
Corn in cans	161	Turnips a la poulette	. .	177
Corn porridge .....	161	Turnips		177
Succotash	162	Turnip tops . . .		178
Grreen corn dumplings . .	163	To boil peas . . .		178
Corn fritters	163	Green peas ....		178
Broiled tomatoes ....	163	Lettuce peas . . .		178
Tomato fritters . . . .	164	To stew peas . . .		179
Browned tomatoes . . .	164	Peas au sucre . .	. .	179
Tomato soup . . . . .	164	Cabbage boiled with meat .	179
Tomato toast	164	To stew cabbage . .	. .	180
To bake tomatoes . . .	165	Cold cabbage . . .		180
Breakfast tomatoes . . .	165	Dressing for cold slaw	. .	180
Chinese rice	165	Bed cabbage, stewed	• •	180
Carolina rice	166	Stewed cabbage . .	• •	181
Bice and milk .....	166	Cabbage jelly . . .		181

8 TABLE

Hot slaw

Broiled mushrooms . . .

Stewed mushrooms . . .

To dry mushrooms . . .

Preserving mushrooms for

winter use

To stew okra

To fry okra ..... To dry okra for winter use Cucumber/ salad .... Salad dressing without oil . Salad dressing .... Italian salad dressing . .

Salad

Potato salad . . . .

Chicken salad

Lobster salad

English salad sauce . . .

Sweet salad sauce . . .

Swiss salad dressing . .

Piquante sauce for salads . Mayounaise for salad . .

PUDDINGS AND PASTRY.

Puddings

St. Claire pudding . . .

Ice pudding

Half pay pudding ... Minute pudding .... Queen pudding .... Gray pudding .... Cottage pudding .... Soyer's new Christmas pud- ding

Christmas pudding . . .

Plum pudding

Suet plum pudding . . .

Barbara’s plum pudding . Rich plum pudding without

flour

Cottage plum pudding . .

Unrivalled plum pudding . Christmas plum pudding . Apple pudding .... Boiled apple pudding . .

Baked apple pudding . .

Rich sweet apple pudding . Pippin pudding ....

Apple roll

Cocoanut pudding . . .

Fine cocoanut pudding

CONTENTS.
	PAGE
Cocoanut custard pudding .	202
Cocoanut cup puddings	202
Lemon pudding . . . .	202
Excellent lemon pudding .	203
Iced lemon pudding . . .	203
Baked lemon pudding . .	203
Sponge pudding . . . .	204
Baked sponge pudding . .	204
Clara’s sponge pudding	204
Boiled fig pudding . . .	204
Fig pudding	204
Raisin pudding . . . .	205
Boiled raisin pudding . .	205
Plain raisin pudding . .	205
Fruit raised pudding . .	206
Tomato pudding . . . .	206
Caromel pudding . . .	206
Cassandra pudding . . .	207
Brighton pudding . . .	207
Golden pudding . . . .	207
Luncheon pudding . . .	208
Moulded pudding . . .	208
Stale loaf pudding . . .	208
Farmer’s pudding . . .	209
Steamboat pudding . . .	209
Treacle pudding . . . .	209
Rich pudding	210
Economical pudding . ,	210
Family pudding . . . .	210
Flour pudding . . . .	211
Simple pudding . . . .	211
Suet pudding	211
Boiled suet pudding . • .	211
Tapioca pudding . . .	211
Arrowroot pudding . . .	212
Potato suet pudding . .	212
Boiled Indian pudding . .	212
Corn meal pudding . . .	212
Indian meal pudding . .	213
Pound pudding . . . .	213
Potato pudding . . . .	213
Biscuit pudding . . . .	213
Macaroni pudding . . .	214
Cake pudding	214
Sago pudding	214
Crumb pudding ....	214
Custard pudding ....	214
Cup pudding	215
Cold cup pudding . . .	215
Green corn pudding . . .	215
Carrot pudding . . . .	215

OF

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201

TABLE OF CONTENTS.

Chocolate pudding . . .

Rice pudding

Boiled batter pudding . .

Quaking pudding . . .

Pennsylvania pudding . ,

Variety puddings . . .

Blackberry pudding . .

Ripe gooseberry pudding . Green currant pudding Orange pudding .... Almond pudding .... Citron pudding .... Supper pudding .... Peripatetic pudding . . .

Fortunatus pudding . . .

Transparent pudding . .

Cream pudding .... Chocolate cream custard

pudding

Cream tapioca pudding Railway pudding, . . .

Simple bread pudding . .

Bread pudding ....

Brown bread pudding . .

Steamed bread and butter pudding ......

Souffle pudding ....

Prince Albert pudding . . German pudding ....

Syllabub pudding . . .

Bird’s nest pudding . . .

Omnibus pudding . . .

Biddle pudding ....

Birthday pudding . . .

Orris pudding

Grandmamma’s pudding . West Point pudding . .

Union pudding .... Snow pudding .... Persian pudding .... Various kinds of pastry Plaky and short crusts . .

Raised crust

Puff-paste ......

Superior puff-paste . . .

Sweet paste

Crust for savory pies . .

Icing pastry

French crust for raised pies' Pie crust for meat pies . .

Farmer’s pie

Cra,cker pies ..... Soda cracker pie . . . .

Orange pie

Aunt Harriet’s pie . . .

Washing^n pie ....

German puffs

Lemon puffs .....

Spiced puffs

Preserve puffs ....

Apple puffs

Egg puffs

Lemon custard tart . . .

Lemon pie, No. 1 ...

Lemon pie, No. 2 ...

Custard cream pie . . .

Cream pie

Cornstarch pie ....

Frosted pie

Macaroni pie

Superior peach pies . . .

Cranberry tart ....

Sand tart

Black Currant tart . . .

Cherry currant tart . . .

Raspberry cream tart . .

Orange tart

Lemon tart

Almond tart

Rhubarb tart

Greengage tart .... Rich mince pie .... Mock mince pie ....

Mincemeat

Pastry sandwiches . . .

Florentines

Rhubarb pie .....

CREAMS AND DESSERTS.

Chocolate creams ....

Scotch creams

Caledonian ^ream . . .

Orange cream

Snow cream

French cream

Velvet cream

Apple cream

Italian cream

Madeira cream .... Spanish cream . . . s.

Lemon cream

Lemon rice

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TABLE OP CONTENTS,

Lemon flummery .... Meringues ......

Trifle

Sweet souffle . . . , . .

Sweet dish of macaroni*; . Lemon honeycomb . . .

Bibavoe .... . .

Delicate dessert . . . .

German flottkreugel . . .

Custard and whey . . .

Fine floating island . . .

Floating island . . . .

French island

Floats .......

Tapioca blanc mange . .

Blanc mange

Chocolate blanc mange . . Cornstarch blanc mange

Peach rolls

Spiced sugar for fritters

Snowballs

Suet dumplings with cur*

rants

Oxford dumplings . . . Suet dumplings ....

Apple custard

Solid custard

Orange custard ....

French custard ....

Milk pancakes ....

Cream pancakes ....

Orange nuts

Compote aux confitures Washington or cream pie . Custard fritters .... Bun fritters .....

Apple fritters

Cherry fritters ....

Elegant fritters .... Snitz and knep ....

Stewed pears

Chocolate caromel . , .

Caromels ......

Burnt sugar

Friar’s omelette ....

Angel’s food

Chocolate butter .... Chocolate charlotte russe . Charlotte russe .... Charlotte de russe . . .

Jam or marmalade charlotte

PAGE

Buttered orange juice . . 266

Cakes for dessert .... 266

Apple charlotte .... 266 Pommes au riz .... 267 Delicious dish of apples . 267 Gateau de pommes . . . 268

Apple Souffle 268

Apple in jelly . . . . . 268

Apple float 268

Apple snow 269

Floating island of apples . 269

Apple island 269

Apple cheesecakes . . . 270

Apple pique 270

Sponge cake for dessert . 270 A dish of snow .... 271 Sugar drops . . . . 271

Ice creams 271

Water ices 272

PBESERVES AND JELLIES. Directions for preserving

fruits, etc 273

To preserve peaches . . . 273 Peach marmalade . . . 274

Peach jam 275

Raspberry fool .... 275 Raspberry jam . . . . 275 Celery preserve .... 275 Preserved lettuce stalks . 276

To preserve watermelon rind 27d Preserved citron .... 276 Apricot jam ..... 277 To preserve hedge pears . 278 Pears for the tea table . . 278

Preserving pears .... 278 Blackberry jelly .... 278

Blackberries 279

Greengage jam . . . . 279

Greengages 280

Bottled green gooseberries 280 Gooseberry jelly .... 281

Gooseberry and raspberry

jelly .281

Red gooseberry jam . . . 281

Green gooseberry jam . . 282

White gooseberry jam . . 282

Dried strawberries . . . 282

To preserve strawberries . 283 Strawberry jelly .... 283

Strawberry jam .... 283

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TABLE	OF	CONTENTS.			11
	PAGE				PAGE
Preserved pineapple . .	284	Eggs, plain boiled		,	302
Pineapples without cooking	285	Bait de poule . .			303
Pineapple jelly ....	285	Egg balls . . .			303
Pineapple marmalade . .	285	Eggs a Tardennaise		, ,	303
Pineapple preserve . . .	285	Eggs a Taurore		. .	303
Khubarb jam . ...	286	Broiled eggs . .			304
Khubarb preserve . . .	286	Minced eggs . .			304
Plums, to preserve . . .	286	Brown eggs . .			304
To preserve purple plums .	287	Egg dumplings		. .	305
Preserved cherries . . .	287	Rumbled eggs		. ,	305
Cherry marmalade or jam .	288	Omelette souffle .		. ,	305
Spiced cherries ....	288	Omelette a la creppe		. .	306
Bottling cherries ....	288	Egg cheesecakes		. .	306
Cherry or strawberry fool .	288	Egg sandwiches .		. .	306
Cherry jam	289	Preserving eggs .		. .	306
Currant jelly	289	Egg omelette . .			307
Black currant jelly . . .	290	Buttered eggs . .			307
Black currant jam . . .	290	Bacon omelette		, ,	307
To can fruit and vegetables	291	Kidney omelette .		, .	307
To can peaches ....	291	Omelette aux crouton	, ,	308
To can raspberries, etc.	291
To can vegetables . . .	291	BREAD, BISCUIT, CAKES, AND
Brandy peaches ....	291	YKAST.
Quinces preserved whole .	292	Bread ....			309
Quince marmalade . . .	292	Rolls and bread .		. .	309
Quince jelly	292	Bread receipt . .			310
Quinces for the tea table .	293	Wheaten bread		• .	310
Quince and apple jelly . .	293	Potato bread . .			311
Apple jelly	293	Homemade bread		. .	311
Apple jam	294	Premium rye bread		. .	312
Apple marmalade . . .	295	Rice bread . . .			312
Apple preserve ....	295	Corn bread . . .			312
Crab apple jam ....	295	Brown bread . .			312
		Light corn bread .		. ,	312
BUTTER, CHEESE, AND EGGS.	Cornmeal bread .		, ,	313
Butter that threatens to turn		Graham loaf . .			313
rancid	296	Graham biscuit .		. .	313
Butter making ....	296	Graham crackers .		. ,	313
To preserve butter . . .	297	Graham bread		. .	314
Curled butter	297	Italian bread . .			314
Rancid butter, to restore .	297	Potato bread . .			315
Manufacture of pineapple		Indian corn bread		, ,	315
and potato cheeses . .	298	Scotch short bread		. ,	315
Cheese biscuit . . . , .	299	Common corn bread			315
Cheesecakes	299	Genuine Scottish short bread	316
Buttermilk cheese . . .	300	Short bread . .			316
Potted cheese . . . . .	300	Dinner rolls . .			317
Cheese straws	300	French rolls . .			317
Cream cheese	301	Pennsylvania rusk		, ,	317
How to cook and serve eggs	302	Tea rusks , . .			318
Eggs, sour le plat . . ,	302	Rusk ....			318

12

TABLE OP CONTENTS,

Light biscuits . . .		PAGK 318	PACE Plum, pound, and bride cakes 332
Biscuits .... *		318	Rock cakes ....		. 334
Butter biscuits , .	. .	319	Love cakes ....
Biscuit cakes . . ,		319	Buns ......
Cream biscuits . .	. .	319	Bath buns ....		. 335
German cream biscuits	.	319	Rich buns ....
Sour cream biscuits .	. .	320	Ground rice buns		. 335
Milk biscuit . . .		320	Spanish buns . . .		. 335
Potato biscuits . .	. .	320	Excellent Spanish bun		. 336
Soda biscuit . . .		320	Children’s cake , ,		. 336
Judge’s biscuit . .	. .	321	Molasses drop cakes		. 336
Abernethy biscuits .	. .	321	Molasses cup cakes .		. 336
Sally Lunn . . .		321	Cornstarch cake . .		, 337
Superior Sally Lunn	. .	322	Soda cake ....		. 337
Light Sally Lunn	. .	322	Rye drop cakes . .		. 337
Johnny cakes . . .		322	Good plain cake . .		. 337
Indian cakes . . .		322	Children’s loaf cake .		. 338
Short cake . . « .			Cheap cake , . .
Corn cake ....		323	French cake . . .		. -338
Green corn cakes	. .	323	Thick gingerbread .		. 338
Soda cake ....		323	Soft gingerbread		. 338
Rice cakes ....		323	Ginger biscuits , .		. 339
Muffins .....		323	Gingersnaps . . .		. 339
German waffles . .	. .	324	Gingerbread . . .		. 339
Waffles .....		324	Almond peppernuts ,		. 339
Raised waffles . .	. .	324	Peppernuts . . .		. 340
Crumpets ....		324	Lemon drop cakes		. 340
Cornmeal muffins	. .	325	Superior lemon cake		. 340
Buttermilk breakfast cakes	325	Lemon cake . . .		, 341
Breakfast short cakes	. .	325	Lemon cheesecakes .		. 341
Hominy breakfast cakes .	326	Orange cheesecakes .		. 341
Breakfast waffles . .	. .	326	Sweet macaroon . ,		. 341
Breakfast Johnny cake	. .	326	Bitter macaroon . .		. 342
Fried breakfast cakes	. .	326	Pop overs ....		. 342
Breakfast puffs . .			Ginger sponge cake .		. 342
Coffee cake ....		327	Ginger loaf cake . .		, 342
Virginia breakfast cake	327	Ginger jumbles . .		. 343
Breakfast soda cake	,	327	Connecticut loaf cake		. 343
French breakfast rolls	• •	328	New England loaf cake	, 343
Breakfast Sally Lunn	,	328	Clay cake ....		, 343
Light breakfast rolls	, .	328	Old fashioned doughnuts ,	, 343
French tea cakes , .	. «	328	Doughnuts ....		, 344
Tea cakes ....		328	Crullers .....		, 344
German tea cakes	• .	329	Bordeaux cakes , ,		, 344
Pennsylvania tea cake	. .	329	Christmas cake . .		345
Plain tea cakes . .			Yule tide cake . .		345
Superior tea cakes .	. .	329	Jelly cake ....		346
Simple tea cakes . .	. .	330	Rose water cake . .		, 846
Lemon tea cakes . .	. .	330	Almond jelly cake	. .	346
Hints for making and bak-		Army cake ....		346
ing sweet cakes	. .	330	Navy cake ....		346

	TABLE OP	CONTENTS.		13
		PAGE			PAGE
Fruit cake . . .			Lady fingers . . .		360
Fruit cake without eggs	. 347	German ladies' fingers	• .	360
Good fruit cake .		. 347	Ladies' fingers . .	, .	360
Soda fruit cake		. 347	Cake sandwiches . .	, ,	361
Molasses fruit cake		. 347	Cocoanut cake . .	,	861
Pound cake . ,			Grated cocoanut cake	, .	361
Rice pound cake .		. 348	White cocoanut cake	, ,	362
Almond cake . .		. 348	Cocoanut loaf cake .	, ,	362
Almond cup cake		. 349	Chocolate cake . .	, ,	362
Sweet almond cake		. 349	Chocolate drop cake .	. .	363
Seed cake . . .		. 349	Chocolate paste cake	, ,	363
Caraway cake		. 350	Currant loaf cake	, .	363
Frosted loaf cake		. 350	Bachelor buttons . .	. •	363
Maximilian cake .		. 350	Princess cakes . .	, ,	363
Bitter almond cake		. 351	Queen's biscuit . .	, ,	364
Stevens cake . .			Lincoln cake . . .		364
Good boy^s cake .		. 351	Boston cake . . .		364
Cup cake . . .		. 851	Gold cake ....		364
Traveller's cake .		. 351	Silver cake ....		365
Apple cake . . .		. 352	White cake ....	. •	365
Pippin cake . .		. 352	Mrs. W's. snow cake	, ,	365
Gateau de pommes		. 352	Snow cake ....		365
School cake . .		. 352	Scotch cake . . .		366
Sugar cake . . .			Butch cake . . .		366
Black cake . . .			Derby short cake	, ,	366
Arrowroot biscuits		. 353	Queen cake . . .		366
Marble cake . .		. 353	Medley cake . . .		367
Railroad cake . .			Congress cake . . .		367
Josephine cake	.	. 354	German sponge cake	. .	367
J enny Lind cake .		. 354	Sponge cake . . .	, .	368
J efferson cake . .			Sponge biscuits . .	, ,	368
Apple cheesecakes		. 354	Berwick sponge cake	. ,	369
Cocoanut cheesecakes .	. 355	Superior sponge cake	, .	369
Citron cheesecakes		. 355	Fine sponge cake	. ,	369
Blackberry ^ake .		. 355	French cream cake .	, .	369
Prune cake . .		. 356	Cream cake . . .		370
French jumbles		. 356	Cream biscuits . .	, ,	370
Soft jumbles , ,			Washington cake	. .	371
Jumbles ....			Washington pie cake	. .	371
Cocoanut jumbles		. 356	German cornucopia cakes .	371
Cookies ....			Swiss cake ....		372
Butter cookies		. 357	Molly’s cake . . .		372
Good cookies . .		. 357	Luncheon cake . .	, ,	372
Ground rice cake		. 357	Lady cake ....		372
Bride cake . . ,			Bun loaf ....		373
Wine biscuits . .		. 358	French cake . . .		373
Rock biscuits . .		. 358	Honey cake . . .		373
Rough biscuits		. 359	Almond custard cake	, ,	373
Almond biscuits .		. 359	Jumbles		374
Biscuits ....			Wine cakes . . •		374
Sweet biscuits . .		. 360	Trafalgar cake . .	. .	374

14 TABLE

Raisin cake

Mountain cake .... White mountain cake . .

Ash cake

Fine icing for cakes . . .

Hot icing

Yeast

Potato yeast

Homemade yeast .... Sweetened yeast .... Hops and potato yeast . .

BEVERAGES.

To make good tea . . .

To make good chocolate Chocolate ^ la francaise

Cocoa shells

Broma

Coffee and its preparation ,

Cafe au lait

Cafe noire

Good coffee

Concentrated coffee . . .

Fruit syrups ... Currant syrup .... Morello cherry syrup . .

Mulberry syrup . . . ,.

Gooseberry syrup . . .

Lemon syrup

Raspberry vinegar syrup . Sour orange syrup . . .

Syrup of cloves ....

Orange syrup

Lemonades

Excellent portable lemonade Mock lemonade .... Superior lemonade a la soyer Lemonade h la soyer . .

Orangeade a la soyer . .

Barley lemonade .... Barley orangeade . . .

Another mock lemonade Plain orangeade .... Orange lemonade . . .

Orangeade .

Fruit vinegars .... Strawberry vinegar . . .

Raspberry vinegar . . .

Gooseberry vinegar . . .

Norwegian raspberry vinegar Mixed fruit vinegars . .

CONTENTS.

PAGB

Strawberry drink. . , . 397

Lemon water 398

Tomato wine . . . . , 398 Muscadine wine .... 398

Rhubarb wine 399

Ginger wine 399

Lemon wine 399

Imperial 400

Imperial pop 400

Capilliare . . . . . . 400

Pleasant drink in summer 400 Decoction of sarsaparilla . 401

Soda water 401

Cooling summer beverage . 401

Ginger beer 402

Common ginger beer . . 402

Ginger pop 402

Ginger beer powders « . 403 Lemonade powders . . . 403

Eau sucre 403

Agrag 403

Sherbet 403

Watermelon sherbet . . . 404

Nectar 404

Lemon water ice ... . 404 Blackberry cordial . . . 404 Tamarinds 405

INVALID COOKERY.

Beef tea 406

Liebig’s soup ..... 406

Beef tea and baked flour . 407 Flaxseed, jelly for a cough 407 Sago ........ 407

Tapioca 407

Oatmeal porridge .... 408 Milk and oatmeal gruel . 408 Panada of fine flour . . . 409

Chicken panada .... 409 Baked crumbs of bread . 409

Bread panada 410

Bouillie of baked flour . . 410

Bouillie of boiled flour . . 410

Glycerine and yelk of egg . 411

Wine whey 411

Arrowroot pap with milk . 411 Port wine jelly .... 412

Orange jelly 412

Porter jelly 412 -

Sago jelly 412

Gelatine 413

Jelly from gelatine . . • 413

OF

PAGE

374

375

376

377

378

379

380

382

384

385

'386

388

389

390

391

392

393

394

396

■ 397

397

TABLE

MISCELLANEOUS.

A bill of fare

Coloring for gravies and

ragouts

Eich gravy

Meat or fish omelettes, gen- erally

Milk toast

Breakfast dish .... Small egg balls to serve with

calf’s head

Good meat cake .... Superior meat pies . . .

To use the meat and gristle of a soup bone ....

Eissoles

Eissoles of cold meat . .

Eissables

Lard

Forcemeat

Forcemeat for veal, turkeys,

fowls, &Q

Eamakins

CONTENTS. 15

PAGE

Eggs to keep . . . . . 421

Farmhouse syllabub . . 421

Lait sucr§ 421

Nutmegs 421

Essence of nutmegs . . . 422

Essence of rose .... 422 How to mix mustard . . 422

To make good vinegar . . 422 Excellent vinegar . . . 422

Mint vinegar ..... 423 Cayenne vinegar .... 423

Quajada 423

Toad in the hole .... 424

A relish 424

Pickelets ...... 424

Cheesikins 425

German Entremet . • . 425

Gravy for fowls . . . . 425

To keep sausage fresh . . 426

Rolled patties 426

Culinary couplets . . . 426

Weights and measures . . 429 Alphabetical index ... 431

OF

PAGE

414

415

416

417

418

419

420

421

2

;-*-sSv ?

3-' : l.V;;3;:;rV’ ;:■'■■ V A: ,.:; : .' ,; ' ,,

Yiiii'iuv .•,'

CHAPTER I.

SOUPS.

How TO Make Soups. — ^The word soiip^ to many minds^ conveys the idea of something that is extravagantly rich in composition and elabo- rately difficult in manner of preparation. Conse- quently^ we more frequently meet with soups as costly and cloying as real turtle, instead of finding them to be light, exhilarating and appetizing. Un- fortunately, many cooks do not appear to be alive to the fact that the less pretentious they^ make a soup the more certain it is to give satisfaction, and of all cooking, nothing is easier to do well, and nothing more difficult to do badly, than soup-mak- ing— ^too much pains being productive of the same results as too many cooks. Simply employ ingre- dients that are quite fresh, utensils that are thor- oughly clean, and skim carefully.

If meat is used that is very fat, a cook is often obliged to let the soup grow cold, so as to remove all the fat from the top, re-warming the soup be- fore serving it ; but if we only make use of meat which is sufficiently lean, and do not neglect skim- ming the liquor while it is simmering, we shall be

17

18

SOUPS.

spared the necessity of sacrificing the flavor of the soup for the sake of avoiding greasiness, A small quantity of fat, however, softens soup, half an ounce of butter to a quart of pottage being enough. Housekeepers should be aware that, though bones and bony joints are economical for soups, yet, when it can be had, the flesh of butchers^ meat is prefer- able. Of course, this does not apply to poultry and game. A small slice of ham or sausage, an anchovy, or a spoonful of sugar, improves the fla- vor of soups generally.

Any of the things from the following list will, with the proper addition of herbs, roots, and sea- soning, make a tureen of good soup for a small family :

One pound of lean meat.

A wild pigeon.

A small rabbit.

A sheep^s or Iambus head.

A chicken or old fowl.

Two pounds of raw bones.

A tame pigeon.

A set of giblets.

The reduced liquor in which has been boiled a calf^s head, fowl, turkey, rabbit, joint of meat, etc., etc.

STOCKS FOR SOUPS AND HOW TO MAKE THEM,

The word ^^stock^^ for soup frequently occurs in receipts. We now give some receipts for mak- ing them :

SOUPS.

19

Good Stock for Ordinary Purposes. — Four pounds of shin-bone, and one pound of lean neck of beef, four carrots, one turnip, one stick of celery, two parsnips, two leeks, one onion, six cloves, six peppers, a bunch of sweet herbs, one gallon of water. Cut the meat into slices, crack the bone, and put it into an earthen pipkin that will stand the fire, as this makes far better soup than a metal saucepan; add the water, and let it stew slowly till the scum rises, and skim it clear; stick the cloves into the onion and then add the vegetablefc^ and let the whole stew slowly till the meat is in rags, which will be in about eight hours. It must simmer very slowly, for if it boils, the meat will not yield the gravy so well, and the stock will be thick in place of being clear. When cold, it should be strained through a cullender and kept in a covered pan or jar for use.

White Stock. — Four pounds of knuckle of veal, any poultry trimmings, four slices of lean ham, three carrots, two onions, one head of celery, twelve white pepper-corns, two ounces of salt, one blade of mace, a bunch of herbs, one ounce of but- ter, four quarts of water. Cut up the veal, and put it with the bones and trimmings of poultry, and the ham, into the stewpan, which has been rubbed with the butter. Moisten with half a pint of water, and simmer till the gravy begins to flow. Then add the four quarts of water and the re- mainder of the ingredients ; simmer for five hours.

20

SOUPS.

After skimming and straining it carefnlly through a very fine hair sieve^ it will be ready for use. When stronger stock is desired^ double the quan- tity of veal^ and put in an old fowl. The liquor in which a young turkey has been boiled is an ex- cellent addition to all white stock or soup.

Economical Stock — The liquor in which a joint of meat has been boiled^ say four quarts | trimmings of fresh meat or poultry^ shank-bones, etc., roast-beef bones, any pieces the larder may furnish ; vegetables, spices, and the same seasoning as in the foregoing receipt. Let all the ingre- dient simmer gently for six hours, taking care to skim carefully at first. Strain it off, and put by for use.

Eich Steono Stock. — Four pounds shin of beef, four pounds knuckle of veal, quarter pound of good lean ham, any poultry trimmings, two ounces of butter, three onions, three carrots, two turnips, (the latter should be omitted in summer, lest they ferment,) one head of celery, a few chopped mushrooms, when obtainable ; one tomato, a bunch of savory herbs, not forgetting parsley ; one and a half ounce of salt, three lumps of sugar, twelve white pepper-corns, six cloves, three small blades of mace, four quarts of water. Line a per- fectly clean stewpan with the ham cut in thin,^ broad slices, carefully trimming off all its rusty fat ; cut up the beef and veal in pieces about three

SOUPS.

21

inches square, Cnd lay them on the ham ; set it on the stove, and draw it down, and stir frequently. When the meat is equally browned, put in the beef and veal bones, the poultry trimmings, and pour in the cold water. Skim well, and occasion- ally add a little cold water to stop its boiling, until it becomes quite clear ; then put in all the other ingredients, and simmer very slowly for five hours.

* Do not let it come to a brisk boil, that the stock be not wasted, and that its color may be preserved. Strain through a very fine hair sieve, or cloth, and the stock will be fit for use.

Plain Beep Soup. — One gallon of cold water, one pound of beef and two tablespoonfuls of rice. Let this boil, then add an onion or two or three leeks ; boil an hour. Peel and slice eight potatoes ; wash them in warm water ; add them to the soup, with a seasoning of salt and pepper; stir it fre- quently ; boil another hour, and then serve.

Beef Soup.- — Get what is called a good beef soup bone, boil two hours, leaving about two quarts of broth ; break two eggs into some flour, and knead it very stiff ; roll out in three sheets to the thick- ness of wrapping paper ; spread them on a table to dry for half an hour ; then place them on one an- other and roll them up as you would jelly cake ; with a sharp knife cut very fine strips from the end, not wider than the thickness of a case knife ; shake them up to separate them; drop into your broth

22

SOUPS.

slowly, stirring your soup all the while. Boil ten minutes ; season with pepper, salt, celery, or a little parsley.

Mutton Soup. — A neck of mutton, weighing five or six pounds, three large carrots, three large turnips, two large onions, a bunch of sweet herbs; salt and pepper to taste ; a sprig of parsley, three quarts of water.

Lay the ingredients in a covered pan before the fire, and let them remain there one day, stirring occasionally. The next day put the whole into a stewpan, and place it on a brisk fire. As soon as it boils, take the pan off the fire, and put it on one side to simmer until the meat is done. When ready for use, take out the meat, dish it with the carrots and turnips; strain the soup, let it cool, skim ofi* the fat, season it, and thicken it with a table- spoonful of arrowroot dissolved in cold water. Simmer for five minutes before serving.

Mutton Broth. — Take two pounds of scrag mutton ; to take the blood out, put it into a stewpan, and cover it with cold water ; when the water be- comes milk warm, pour it off; then put it in four or five pints of water, with a teaspoonful of salt, a tablespoonful of best grits, and an onion ; set it on a slow fire, and when you have taken all the scum off, put in two or three turnips ; let it simmer very slowly for two hours, and strain it through a clean sieve.

SOUPS.

23

Nuesery Soup. — To be prepared the day before it is wanted for use. Two pounds of scrag mutton or the knuckle of a leg ; put it into two quarts of cold water ; add two large turnips^ sliced, and a table- spoonful of rice or barley. Let this simmer for one hour ; take out the meat from the soup into a dish, and put away the liquor until the next day, when all the fat must be removed from the top.

Turn the soup into a pot and add the meat cut into small pieces, a finely minced onion, a little parsley, a small head of celery, an ounce of butter, a tablespoonful of flour, mixed in cold water to the consistency of cream, burn a little brown sugar in an iron spoon, and pour a little boiling water over it into the flour ; strain the browned flour into the soup, add the other ingredients ; let all boil for an hour, when serve with small square dice of toasted bread.

Economical Veal Soup. — Boil a piece of veal, suitable for a fricassee, pie, or hash. When tender, take the meat up and slip out all the bones ; put these back into the kettle and boil for two hours. Then strain the liquor, and stand away until the next day. When wanted, take off the fat, put the soup into a clean pot, add pepper, salt, an onion, a half teacupful of rice, a tablespoonful of flour mixed in cold water, and slices of potato. Boil thirty minutes and serve hot.

Imitation of Mock-Turtle Soup. — Put into

24

SOUPS.

a pan a knuckle of veal, two calf^s feet, two onions, a few cloves, peppers, allspice, mace, and sweet herbs; cover them with water, then tie a thick paper over the pan, and set it in an oven for three hours. When cold, take off the fat very nicely, cut the meat and feet into bits an inch and a half square, remove the bones and coarse parts, and then put the rest on to warm, with a large spoonful of walnut and one of mushroom ketchup, half a pint of sherry, or Madeira wine, a little mushroom powder, and the jelly of the meat. When hot, if it requires any further seasoning, add some, and serve with hard eggs, forcemeat balls and a squeeze of lemon soy.

Veal Gkavy Soup. — Garnish the bottom of a stewpan with thin pieces of lard, add a few slices of ham, slices of veal cutlet, slices of onion, carrot, parsnips, celery, a few cloves upon the meat, and a spoonful of broth. Soak it on the fire in this way until the veal throws out its juice. Then put it on a stronger fire until the meat catches to the bottom of the pan, and is well browned. Then add about two quarts of light broth, and simmer all on a slow fire until the meat is thoroughly done ; add a little thyme and mushrooms. Skim and strain all clear for use.

White Soup. — Boil a knuckle of veal and four calf^s feet in five quarts of water, with three sliced onions, a bunch of sweet herbs, four heads of white celery, cut small, a tablespoonful of whole pepper, a small teaspoonful of salt, and six large blades of

SOUPS.

25

mace. Let all boil very slowly till the meat is in rags^ and has dropped from the bone^ and the gristle has quite dissolved. Skim well while boiling. When done strain through a sieve into a deep white ware pan. Next day take off all the fat, and put the jelly into a clean soup pot, with two ounces of vermicelli ; set over a clear fire. When the vermicelli is dis- solved stir in, gradually, a pint of thick cream while the soup is hot. Do not let it come to a boil after the cream is in, lest it should curdle. Cut up a few rolls in the bottom of a tureen, pour on the soup, and serve. /

Calf’s Head Soup. — Procure a calf’s head, wash it well, and let it stand in salt and water two or three hours. Then soak it in fresh water. Put it on to boil, and when the meat will separate from the bone take it off. Strain the broth, cut the meat in small pieces, and add it to the broth. Then season with sweet marjoram, sage, thyme, sweet basil, pepper, salt, mace, and cloves. Take one pound of suet, and two pounds of veal, chopped fine, and, with sufficient bread crumbs and seasoning as above, make some forcemeat balls, and fry them in butter. Make also some small dumplings with a little flour, butter, and water. Add the dumplings, the forcemeat balls, two or three eggs, chopped fine, a spoonful of browned flour, and as much wine as you think fit to the soup.

Vekmicelli Soup. — Put a shin of veal, one onion, two carrots, two turnips, and a little salt into

26

SOUPS.

four quarts of water. Boil this three hours. Add two cups of vermicelli, and boil it an hour and a half longer. Before serving take out the bone and vegetables.

Salt Meat Soup. — Two pounds of salt beef or salt pork, four carrots, four parsnips, four turnips, four potatoes, one cabbage, two ounces of ground rice, seasoning of salt and pepper, two quarts of water. Cut the meat in small pieces, add the water, and let it simmer for three quarters of an hour. Cut the vegetables in thin slices, add them to the meat, and boil all together for one hour. Thicken with the rice flour dissolved in cold water. Simmer for five minutes, and serve.

Chicken Bkoth. — Cut up a chicken (an old one is best), and put it into an iron pot with two quarts of water, one onion, two tablespoonfuls of rice, and a little salt. Boil for two hours, and strain through a sieve.

Brown Chicken Soup. — Cut up a nicely dressed chicken. Put it in the pot with water to cover it, which must be measured, and half as much more added to it before the soup is dished. Keep it cov- ered tight, boiling slowly, and take off the fat as fast as it rises. When the chicken is tender take it from the pot and mince it very fine. Season it to the taste, and brown it with butter in a dripping pan. When brown put it back in the pot. Brown together butter and flour, and make rich gravy by adding a

SOUPS.

27

pint of the soup. Stir this in the soup, and season it with a little pepper, salt, and butter. Be careful the chopped chicken does not settle and burn on the pot. It will be well to turn a small plate on the bottom of the kettle to prevent this. Toast bread quite brown and dry, but do not burn it, and lay the toast in the tureen, and serve it with the soup. Stir the chicken through it, and pour it in the tureen.

Paetkidoe Soup. — A brace of old partridges make a capital soup. Cut them up, and together with some celery, a slice of ham, and an onion, sliced ; toss them in a little butter and set over the fire until they are somewhat browned. Stew them, closely covered, in five pints of water, for two hours ; strain the soup, heat it again, and add to it some small dice of toasted bread, and a little stewed celery. Season with salt and pepper and serve hot.

Babbit Soup. — Cut one or two rabbits into joints ; lay them for an hour in cold water ; dry and fry them in butter till about half done, with four or five onions and a middling-sized head of celery cut small ; add to this three quarts of cold water, one pound of split peas, some pepper and salt; let it stew gently for four or five hours, then strain and serve it.

Caeeot Soup. — Pour quarts of liquor in which a leg of mutton or a piece of beef has been boiled

28

SOUPS.

a beef or mutton bone, six large carrots, two large onions, one large turnip; seasoning of salt and pepper to taste. Put the liquor, bones, onions, turnips, pepper and salt into a stewpan, and sim- mer for three hours. Scrape the carrots and cut them in thin slices, strain the soup over them, and stew till soft enough to pulp through a hair sieve or coarse cloth ; boil the pulp in the soup until about the consistency of pea soup ; add Cayenne. Pulp only the red part of the carrot, and make the soup the day before it is served.

Vegetable Soup. — Peel and slice six large onions, six potatoes, six carrots, and four turnips • fry them in half a pound of butter, and pour on them four quarts of boiling water. Toast a crust of bread as brown and hard as possible, but do not burn it, and put it in, with some celery, sweet herbs, white pepper and salt. Stew it all gently for four hours, and then strain it through a coarse cloth. Have ready thinly sliced carrot, celery and a little turnip. Add them to your liking, and stew them tender in the soup. If approved of, a spoonful of tomato catsup may be added.

Clear Gravy Soup. — Lay at the bottom of the stewpan half a pound of lean ham sliced, then three pounds of lean beef, and over it three pounds of veal, all in slices. If any bones be left, break them and lay them on the meat ; peel four onions, slice two carrots, two turnips, and a head of celery,

SOUPS.

29

and with a bunch of sweet herbs, four cloves, and a blade of mace, add all to the meat, over which pour one quart only of water, and place the stew- pan, covered, over a slow fire till 4he meat is brown; then turn it, but be careful it does not scorch. Then add three quarts of boiling water, and let it stew gently for an hour till you have carefully removed all the scum that rises; after which, place the stewpan at the side of the fire, now adding two teaspoonfuls of salt. Let it sim- mer for four hours, strain it through a tamis into an earthenware vessel, and set it by to cool. Then carefully remove the fat ; and when poured off to heat, do not disturb the sediment. The soup should be perfectly clear, and of an amber color ; and will look better without any addition of vege- tables.

Gumbo.— Take one chicken, two slices of cold cooked ham, three large onions ; cut the chicken into pieces after it has laid in salt and water a half hour; slice the onions, and put all into a skillet with the ham, and fry together, until a nice brown, add a large tablespoonful of butter. Take half a gallon of young okra sliced very thin. After peeling one quart of ripe tomatoes, add to the okra with three quarts of water ; let it boil well, then add the fried meat and onions; season with Cayenne and black pepper, salt to taste. Boil about four hours until the okra is perfectly dissolved, over a slow fire. Then strain, according to taste. Some

30

SOUPS.

prefer it not strained, and not too thick ; in that case do not let^ it boil quite so long. It is then ready for table.

Okra or Gumbo Soup. — Boil a chicken and a slice of ham in sufficient water to make a tureen of soup. When the fowl is thoroughly don^, take it with the ham from the broth. Flavor the soup with onions, pepper, salt, and sweet herbs ; make a paste with eggs and flour, roll it as thin as wafers, dry a little, then roll it as tightly as possible, and slice in thin shreds ; put in the soup a teacupful of this, a teacupful of chopped okra, and a pint of oysters.

Southern Gumbo Soup. — Fry one chicken, when cut up, to a light brown ; also two slices of bacon, pour on them three quarts of boiling water, add one onion and some sweet herbs tied in a rag ; simmer them gently three hours and a half ; strain off* the liquor, take off* the fat, and then put the ham and chickens cut into small pieces into the liquor ; add half a teacup of okra, also half a teacup of rice. Boil all half an hour, and just before serving add a glass of wine and a dozen oysters with their juice.

Soup for the Million. — Put the bones, skin, and all the rough residue of any joint, into a sauce- pan, with a quart and half a pint of cold water, one large carrot, scraped and cut up, two large onions, sliced and fried brown in one ounce of butter ; and

SOUPS.

31

one very small head of celery washed and cut up. Let it stew for two hours ; then add three medium- Bized potatoes^ peeled ; a saltspoonful of salt ; half a saltspoonful of pepper^ and half a saltspoonful of mustard. Let it simmer three quarters of an hour longer. Take out the bones and then rub the whole through a sieve.

Lobsteu Soup. — shin of veal^ two carrots, two onions, pepper, salt, mace, and four quarts of water ; boil together four hours. Break up a large boiled lobster, take the meat out of the shell, break up the shell into a stewpan, with water enough to cover it. Let this simmer while the soup is boil- ing. Strain the vegetables, meat, and lobster shell, and put the liquor into the soup pot. Cut the meat of the lobster fine, and boil in the soup two hours. If you have the roe or coral of the lobster, grate it into the soup, as it adds to its tempting ap- pearance. Add a quarter of a pound of butter, braided into two tablespoonfuls of flour, a cup of wine, the juice of a lemon, or a tablespoonful of vinegar.

New England Chowdee. — ^A good haddock, cod, or any other solid fish. Cut in pieces three inches square. Put a pound of fat salt pork cut in strips into a stewpan, set it on Hot coals, and fry out the oil. Take out the pork, put in a layer of fish, over that a layer of onions in slices, another layer of fish with strips of fat salt pork, another layer 3

32

SOUPS.

of onions. Alternate in this way until your fish is consumed. Mix some flour with as much water as will fill the pot, season with black pepper and salt to taste, and boil for half an kour. Have ready some crackers (Philadelphial^ilot bread is the best) soaked in water until they are a little softened ; throw them into the chowder five min- utes before taking it oflT the fire. Serve in a tureen.

Oyster Soup. — To one hundred oysters take one quart of milk, half a pint of water, four spoon- fuls of flour, half a cup of butter, and one teaspoon- ful of salt, with a very little Cayenne pepper. Boil and skim the liquor of the oysters. Steam the flour and butter over the teakettle until soft enough to beat to a froth ; then stir it in the liquor while boil- ing; after which add the other ingredients, and throw in the oysters, allowing them merely to scald.

Clam Soup. — Separate fifty small clams from the juice, which put into a stewpan, and let sim- mer five minutes, put it on to cook and slowly add two tablespoonfuls of butter and one of flour rubbed together, stirring it well ; after this add half a teaspoonful of salt, half a nutmeg, and one pint of cream or milk, stir all well ; let it simmer ten min- utes ; chop up parsley and add the clams. One boil up is sufficient, as clams require little cooking. If large clams are used, it is necessary to chop them up.

Bisque op Lobster. — A soup made with fish is always called a bisque. It is made either with

SOUPS.

33

crabs or lobsters. Remove a portion from either side of the head and use the rest. To boil a lobster, put it in a fish-kettle, and cover it with cold water, cooking it on a quick fire. Two lobsters will make soup for six or eight persons, and also salad. All the under shell and small claws are pounded in, a mortar to make the bisque. When it is pounded, put it in a pan and set it on the fire wdth broth or water. The meat is cut in small pieces to be added afterwards. The bisque is left on the fire to boil gently for half an hour. Then pour it into a sieve and press it with a masher to extract the juice. To make it thicker a small piece of parsnip can be added and mashed with the rest into a pan, so that all the essence is extracted in that way from the lobster. When you have strained it, put a little butter with it, and add as much broth as is re- quired. Put some of the meat in the soup tureen, and pour the soup over it.

CoLOEiNG FOE SoupS. — As soups often require coloring, it is well to prepare browning for that purpose. Two baked onions, well browned in the oven and then chopped fine, make an excellent coloring and flavoring. The shells of green peas dried in the oven brown, but not black, will also answer to brown soup, and will keep all winter if hung in a perfectly dry place.

It will be found much better to use either of the above for coloring soup than the caramel or brown

34

SOUPS.

sugar used by many cooks, as the sweet taste is apt to be perceptible.

Eoast Yeal and Chicken Bones make a very nice soup, boiled with vegetables ^Jbut add a hand- ful of macaroni, break it up fine,^nd boil the soup half an hour after it is put in.^ Color the soup with a little soy or ketchup.

CHAPTER II.

FISH.

To Bake a Laege Fish Whole. — Cut off the head, and split the fish down nearly to the tail ; prepare a nice dressing of bread, butter, pepper and salt, moistened with a little water. Fill the fish with this dressing, and bind it together with fine cotton cord or tape, so as to confine it; the bindings may be three inches apart ; lay the fish on a grate on a bake pan or a dripping-pan, and pour round it a little water and melted butter. Baste frequently. A good sized fish will bake in an hour. Serve with the gravy of the fish, drawn butter or oyster sauce.

Rock Fish. — Rock fish or bass are best boiled plain, leaving on the head and tail. Boil steadily for half an hour. Serve with drawn butter with hard boiled eggs in it, chopped fine.

Stuffed Fish. — Soak some bread in water, and squeeze it out, add a small onion, chopped fine, fried with butter till nearly done ; add to the onion the bread, salt, pepper, a little nutmeg, a little broth, the yelk of one egg. Stir rapidly, cooking over a clear fire ; when done, add a little parsley,

35

r

36

FISH.

chopped fine. Cut the back-bone out of a two pound fish, put the stuffing in its place, and sew it up with a trussing needle and twine ; put a little salt and pepper on the ffish, inside and outside, a few pieces of butter under It in the pan, cover with a gill of broth, and bake in the oven.

To Fry Trout. — Dry them thoroughly, and fry in hot oiled butter without scorching, or in pork fat. If the latter rub salt on the fish. Lay on the fish, before serving, lumps of sweet butter.

Sturgeon.- — The meat of this tenant of the deep waters partakes very much of the properties of veal, both in flavor and appearance, and is of an insipid character unless it is treated with condiments so as to render it commendable to the palate of the gas- tronomist. When purchased at the fishmonger’s it should be cut into small fillets about one inch in thickness, and these should be covered over on both sides with a liberal supply of crumbs of bread, chopped parsley, lemon rind, and an egg to cause the above to adhere to the meat. Wrap the fillets in clean white writing paper, which has been buttered on the inside, and place on a gridiron over a clear fire until they are well done. Serve them with a sauce of melted butter, caviare and catsup, with salt and pepper to taste.

Fried Cod-Fish.— Take the middle or tail part of a fresh cod-fish, and cut it into slices not quite an inch thick, first removing the skin. Season them

FISH.

37

witli a little salt and Cayenne pepper. Have ready in one dish some beaten yelk of egg, and in another some grated bread crumbs. Dip each slice of fish twice into the egg, and then twice into the crumbs. Fry them in fresh butter, and serve them up with the gravy about them.

Halibut may be fried as above.

Feied Eels. — Clean and skin the eels. If large cut them into pieces, if small skewer them round and fry them whole. First dust them over with flour, then rub them with yelk of egg and sprinkle them with bread crumbs. Put them into boiling lard and fry until nicely browned.

Potted Salmon. — Salmon, pounded mace, cloves, and pepper to taste, three bay leaves, a quar- ter of a pound of/butter. Skin the salmon, and clean it thoroughly by wiping with a cloth (water would spoil it). Cut it into square pieces, which rub with salt, let them remain till thoroughly drained, then lay them in a dish with the other in- gredients, and bake. When quite done drain them from the gravy, press into pots for use, and when cold pour over it clarified butter.

To Pickle Fish. — Take any freshly caught fish, clean and scale them, wash and wipe them dry. Cut them into slices a few inches thick, put them in a jar with some salt, some allspice, and a little horse- radish. When filled cover them with good strong vinegar. Cover it well with a good cover. Let it

38

FISH.

stand in your oven a few hours. Don^t let the oven be too hot. This will keep six months. Put it immediately in the cellar, and in a few months they will be fit for use. No bones will be found.

To Pickle Herrings.— Wash fifty herrings well, and cut off their heads, tails, and fins. Put the fish into a stewpan, with three ounces of ground allspice, one tablespoonful of coarse salt, and a little Cayenne. Lay the fish in layers, and strew the spice equally over it, with a few bay leaves and anchovies inter- spersed. Pour over the whole a pint of vinegar mixed with a little water. Tie a bladder over the stewpan and bake in a slow oven. Skim off the oil, and with a little of the liquor boil, about half a pint of claret or port wine. The fish should be baked so slowly and so thoroughly that when cooked the bones should not be perceptible.

Salt Fish. — Lay the fish to soak over night in cold water with a little vinegar in it. Wash it thor- oughly, put it into a fish-kettle, with sufficient cold water to cover it. Let it heat gradually, but not boil quickly, or the fish will become hard. A large fish will require to be kept boiling half an hour. Before taking the fish from the kettle remove all the scum from the top of the water. . Drain well. Parsnips may be laid around the fish on the edge of the dish, and hard boiled eggs, cut in slices, between the parsnips. Parsnip and egg sauce, in separate dishes, should also be served with salt fish.

FISH.

39

Salt Fish with Paesnips. — Salt fish must always be well soaked in plenty of cold water the whole of the night before it is required for the fol- lowing day^s dinner. The salt fish must be put on to boil in plenty of cold water, without any salt, and when thoroughly done should be well drained free from any water, and placed on a dish with plenty of well-boiled parsnips. Some sauce may be poured over the fish, which is to be made as follows, viz, : Mix two ounces of butter with three ounces of flour, pepper, and salt, a small glassful of vinegar, and a good half pint of water. Stir this on the fire till it boils. A few hard-boiled eggs chopped up and mixed in this sauce would render the dish more acceptable.

PiCKED-up Codfish. — ^This is an old-fashioned dish and name, but none the less to be admired on that account, being with most persons, when prop- erly prepared, a great favorite. Pick up the fish in small particles, separating the fibres as near as pos- sible, the finer the better. Freshen by leaving it in water one hour. Pour off* the water and fill up with fresh. Bring it to a scald, pour it off*, and put on the fish just enough water to cover it. Add to a quart of the soaked fish a bit of butter the size of half an egg, a very little flour, and a dust of pepper. Beat up two eggs, and after taking off* the fish thicken it by stirring in the egg. Some let it boil after the egg is added, but if this is done the egg will be cur-

40

FISH.

died. Another way is to boil eggs, chop and mix them in the gravy.

Codfish Balls. — Pick up as fine as possible a teacup of nice white codfish. Freshen all night, or if wanted for any other meal than breakfast, from the morning. Scald it once, and drain off the water. Chop and work it until entirely fine; Put it in a basin with water, a bit of butter the size of an egg, and two eggs. Beat it thoroughly, and heat it until it thickens without boiling. It should, when all is mixed, be about a quart. Have some potatoes ready prepared and nicely mashed. Work the fish and potatoes thoroughly together as above, make it in fiat cakes, and brown both sides.

Cod Sounds (An Enteee). — Boil the sounds gently, and not too much. Take them out of the water and let them remain until quite cold. Make a forcemeat out of chopped oysters, crumbs of bread, a lump of butter, spice, pepper and salt, and the yelks of two eggs. Pill the sounds and skewer them up in the shape of chickens, and lard them down each side in the same manner as though they were the breasts of fowls. Dredge them with flour, put them before the fire to bake, basting them well with butter. When they are sufficiently cooked, pour upon them some oyster sauce. They make an excel- lent entree.

Fish Cake.— Carefully remove the bones and skin from any fish, previously cooked, and let it

PISH.

41

soak for a short time in warm water. After taking it out, press it dry, add to it an equal quantity of mashed potatoes, and beat together in a mortar to a fine paste; season to taste. Then make up the mass into round fiat cakes, sift a little^flour over each one, and fry in butter or lard till they are brown. Codfish recooked in this way is an ex- cellent breakfast dish.

Kedjeree. — Take some fish that has been dressed, bone it carefully, and pull it into very small bits. Add hard-boiled eggs chopped, and as much rice well boiled as you require to fill your dish. Mix all these well together, with sufficient butter or cream to moisten them, adding a little Cayenne, mustard, and salt. Put all into a sauce- pan and stir with a fork (not a spoon) until quite hot. The fire must not be too fierce, and the dish must be served up very hot.

Lobster Patties. — ^Make some puff paste, and spread it on very deep patty pans. Bake it empty. Having boiled well two fine lobsters, extract all the meat and mince it very small, mixing with it the coral smoothly mashed, and some yelks of hard boiled eggs, grated. Season it with a little salt, some Cayenne, some powdered mace or nutmeg, adding a little yellow lemon rind, grated. Moisten the mixture well with cream, fresh butter, or salad oil. Put it into a stewpan, add a very little water, and let it stew till it just comes to a boil. Take it

42

FISH.

off the fire, and the patties being cased, remove them from the tin panvS, place them on a large dish, and fill them to the top with the mixtures. Simi- lar patties may be made of crabs.

Lobster Eissoles. — Extract the meat of a boiled lobster, mince it as fine as possible, mix with it the coral, pounded smooth, and somj0 yelks of hard-boiled eggs, pounded also. Seascin it with Cayenne pepper, powdered mace, and a very little salt. Make a batter of beaten egg, milk, and flour. To each egg allow two large tablespoonfiils of milk, and a large teaspoonful of flour. Beat the batter well, and then mix the lobster with it gradually, till it is stiff enough to make into oval balls about the size of a large plum. Fry them in the best salad oil, and serve them either warm or cold. Simi- lar rissoles may be made of raw oysters, minced fine, or of boiled clams. These should be fried in lard.

To Fry Oysters. — -Beat up an egg in one ves- sel and grate one or two crackers in another. Dip the oysters singly, first into the egg, then into the cracker. Fry the oysters so prepared in equal parts of butter and lard. It is also recommended to dry the oysters with a towel, beforehand. Clams may be fried in the same way.

Pickled Oysters. — ^Lay the oysters on a sieve to drain the liquor from them ; leave it to settle, then pour off the clear portion, and boil it up well with pepper, salt, mace, and ginger to the taste ; then

FISH.

43

wash the oysters well in several waters to remove all the slime, and give them one boil up in the liquor.

Oyster Stew. — To one hundred oysters, take one quart of milk, a half pint of water, four table- spoonfuls of flour, one teaspoonful of salt, a half cup of butter and a little Cayenne pepper. Put the liquor of the oysters on to boil. Mix butter and flour and steam it in a bowl over the teakettle till soft enough to beat to a froth, then stir it into the liquor, after which add the other ingredients.

German Eeceipt for Oyster Powder. — Take fresh oysters, beard them, and place them in a vessel over the fire for a few moments in order to extract the juice, then put them to cool, and chop them very fine with pounded biscuit, mace, and finely-minced lemon-peel; pound them until they become a paste; make them up into thin cakes, place them on a sheet of paper in a slow oven, and let them bake until they become quite hard, pound them directly into powder, and place the powder in a nice, dry tin box. Keep in a dry place, and when oysters are out of season you will find this powder very serviceable in imparting the flavor of the fish to various sauces and dishes.

Crumbed Oysters. — Eight square soda-crack- ers rolled fine, seven ounces of butter, one quart of oysters; drain the oysters; put the crackers and oysters in alternate layers; divide the butter equally,

44

FISH.

putting it on the oysters at each layer, with a dust of pepper ; be careful not to salt too much, leaving the bottom and top layer crackers. A moment before baking add a coffee cup of the liquor from the oysters ; bake a light brown.

Scalloped Oystees. — Wash out of the liquor two quarts of oysters, pound very fine eight soft crackers, or grate a stale loaf of bread butter a deep dish, sprinkle in a layer of crumbs, then a layer of oysters, a little mace, pepper, and bits of butter ; another layer of crumbs, another of oysters, then seasoning as before, and so on until the dish is filled ; cover the dish over with bread-crumbs, seasoning as before ; turn over it a cup of the oyster liquor. Set it into the oven for thirty or forty minutes to brown.

Oyster Forcemeat. — Open carefully a dozen fine plump natives, take off the beards, strain the liquor, and rinse the oysters in it. Grate four ounces crumb of a stale loaf into fine light crumbs, mince the oysters, but not too small, and mix them with the bread ; add one and a half ounce of good butter, broken into minute bits, the grated rind of half a small lemon, a small saltspoonful of pounded mace, some Cayenne, a little salt, and a large tea- spoonful of parsley; mix these ingredients well, and work them together with the unbeaten yelk of one egg, and a little oyster liquor, the remainder of which can be added to the sauce which usually accompanies this forcemeat.

FISH.

46

Oyster Patties in Batter. — Make a batter with the yelk of one egg (or more, according to the quantity of oysters you intend to prepare), a little nutmeg, some beaten mace, a little flour, and a little salt ; dip in the oysters, and fry them in lard to a nice light brown. If preferred, a little parsley may be shred very fine, and mixed with the batter. The batter may also be made thicker, and formed into the shape of a patty, or put into a small tin mould, the oyster being dropped in and covered over, and the whole baked as a pudding would be.

Oyster Omelette. — Three eggs well beaten, a little parsley, and an onion well minced, a little pepper and salt, one dozen good oysters ; fry in butter with a little cream. The omelette must not be turned, but when done on the one side must be browned, or held close to the fire when it rises and browns ; serve hot with good gravy.

Oyster Sauce. — ^Boil the oysters in their own liquor until they look plump, then take them out and strain the liquor ; add to it wine, vinegar, and pepper to your taste, and pour it over the oysters.

Clam Fritters. — Strain the clams thoroughly from the juice, chop them fine, season with pepper and salt, and add an egg or two, with a little cream or milk ; sift in flour enough to make them stick together — -and fry.

To Boil Crabs. — Boil for twenty minutes, wipe and crack the claws, rub the shells with oil, and

46

FISH.

dish as with lobster. To cook soft-shell crabs, re- move the claws, cut open and take away the sand- bag and spongy part ; then put some butter in a pan and fry brown on both sides.

Tekeapins. — Boil three terrapins till the bones can be easily removed, after which Jshop the meat very fine ; add two tablespoonfuls of butter, one pint of tomato catsup, half a pint of sherry or Madeira wine, one tablespoonful of mixed mustard, two onions, boiled and chopped fine, salt, black and red pepper to taste ; stir the mixture well • scrape and clean two of the backs.

CHAPTER HI.

SAUCES AND PICKLES

Sauces. — Melted butter, a sauce, is, in its simplest form, a mixture of butter, flour, salt and water; and the talent consists in bringing those ingredients together, and in the quantities employed of each. It ought not to be a mixture of flour and water with a little butter added to it — this is the common form — but, as its name implies, it ought to be butter and water, with a little flour added to it to thicken the mixture. If you like your sauce thick, put more flour ; and if thin, put less. To be well made, the sauce should be smooth and velvety in appearance, and, above all, devoid of what are called knobs. To obtain this result proceed in this way : Melt the butter in a saucepan, and then add the flour, which will amalgamate very easily with it ; salt and stir in enough of hot water, keep stirring the mixture on the fire until it thickens; then serve.

The above is the simplest form, but like all simple things, it is the foundation of an imposing array of sauces, to be eaten with fish, flesh, fowl, and vege- tables without end.

4

47

48

SAUCES AND PICKLES.

1. Beat up the yelk of an egg and the juice of a lemon, and stir in just before serving, off the fire,

2. Use milk, or milk and water, instead of water.

3. Throw in, just before serving, some chopped

parsley, capers, or pickles chopped small. These additions are not incompatibly with the arrange- ments Nos. 1 and 2. \

4. Let the butter and flour get a good brown color, then add water, and when the sauce is made, Worcester Sauce, ketchup, pepper and other spices and condiments to taste.

5. Use a mixture of half water and half tomato sauce instead of water, and add condiments to taste, if the tomato sauce is not sufficiently flavored.

N. B. — This is not to be used in dressing maca- roni, but only for cutlets, boiled fowls, with rice, various vegetables, etc.

6. Cut up some onions, a very small piece of garlic, and boil in milk, with whole pepper, mace, a clove or two, etc., tied up in a piece of muslin, and some parsley. When the mixture is well flavored, strain and use the milk instead of water to make your sauce ; egg and lemon may be added if wished. Without these last two it is not a bad substitute for onion sauce. Shad or rock fish boiled in the flavored milk, and served with the sauce over them, are not bad eating. The great rock to be avoided is excess of any one thing in flavoring the milk, chiefly in the spice line.

SAUCES AND PICKLES.

49

7. For puddings and sweet dishes the sauce is made in the same way, excepting that the salt is replaced by sugar, in larger quantities, of course. This should be made with milk, or milk and water, and an egg or two used, with or without lemon, according to taste; or the egg should be beaten up with brandy or wine:

Mushkoom Catsup. — Get fine-grown, fresh- gathered mushrooms, break them up, and sprinkle a good handful of salt over every layer. Let them lie for all the juice to run out, stirring them up often, but put no water. When the juice has run out, strain it oif, and boil it well, with very little ginger, and a sufficient quantity of pepper. It is a mistake to give mushroom catsup all kinds of fla- vorings, as it is the full flavor of the mushroom which it is all-important to preserve, and in using it the cook can add the spices her dish requires. All that is necessary or good to make the catsup keep is to put salt and pepper enough. A mat- ter of yet greater importance is to use the pure juice without water, as any mixture of water spoils the flavor and the keeping, too. There is no better sauce for fried or broiled fish than a really good mushroom catsup, and nothing else; and mixed with equal parts of soy and lemon pickle, it makes a delicious flavoring for any sauce or gravy. Make it a quartette with a fourth equal part of red wine, and ^Gt^s no ill,^^ as the Scot says.

60 SAUCES AND PICKLES. ^

Tomato Catsup.^ — Take six pounds of tomatoeS| sprinkle them with salt, let them remain for a day or two, then boil them until the skins will separate easily ; press them through a colander or coarse sieve, leaving the skins behind. Put into the liquor a handful of shalots, a pint of Chili vinegar, a pint of wine, salt, pepper, cloves, ginger, and allspice. Boil all together until a third is wasted, bottle it, and when it is cold cork the bottles very well. Shake it before using it. Good either for sauce or for flavoring.

Tomato Maemalade.— Take fine ripe toma- toes, cut them in halves, and squeeze out the juice. Put them in a preserving-pan, with a few peach- leaves, a clove of garlic, some slices of onion or shalot, and a bundle of parsley. Stew them until they are sufficiently done, pulp them through a sieve, and boil them down like other marmalade, adding salt. Put them into small jars, pepper the tops, and pour clarified butter over. Eat it with fish, etc., or stir the contents of a small pot into the gravy of stews or fricassees.

Belsize Tomato Sauce.— Slice tomatoes in a jar, and sprinkle salt over every layer of slices. Place the jar in a warm place by the fire, stir the contents pretty often for three days, and let it re- main untouched for twelve days. Press out the juice, and boil it with mace, pepper, allspice, gin- ger, and cloves. There should be two ounces of

SAUCES AND PICKLES.

61

spice to a quart of juice, the pepper and allspico greatly predominating. At the end of three months it should be boiled up with fresh spice.

Tomato Yinegae. — Quarter three dozen fine tomatoes, leave the bottoms undivided ; rub half a pound of salt over them, place them in a wide- mouthed jar in a cool oven, or by the side of the fire, for a day or two ; add a little mace, cloves, and grated nutmeg; slice in a clove of garlic, sprinkle in half a pint of mustard seed, and pour over all two quarts of boiling vinegar ; tie a blad- der over the jar, and let it remain five or six days more by the fire, shaking it well every day. Put it by in the same jar as long as convenient, and when you wish to bottle it press out all the liquor ; let it stand several hours to clear, and then bottle the clear, and keep that which is not quite clear for present use.

Tomato vinegar and tomato sauce should both be kept in store, as the sub-acid fiavor is sometimes an improvement in the dishes in which it is used, whereas at other times we require the flavor of the tomato unmingled with acid.

Lemon Pickle, — Grate off the rind of twenty lemons, or pare it off* so thin as to cut through the little globules, grating or cutting it into a small quantity of vinegar, to be added to the lemon pickle with the vinegar. Cut the lemons in quarters, leav- ing the bottoms whole. Rub over them equally

52

SAUCES AND PICKLES.

half a pound of bay salt, and put them into a stone jar in a cool oven, or on the hob by the fire, until the juice is dried into the peels. Then put in amongst them a blade of mace, a few cloves beaten fine, some grated nutmeg, a clove of garlic peeled and sliced, and half a pint of mustard seed bruised, and pour over all two quarts of boiling vinegar. Close the jar well, let it stand in its warm place five or six days, shaking it up every day. Tie it down tight with a bladder, and put it by for three months to take off the bitter. After this it may be bottled when convenient. Put all into a hair sieve, and squeeze out the liquor. Let the liquor stand until the next day, and bottle the fine. Let the remain- der stand two days, bottle the fine part, and repeat the same until all is bottled. A little will not hurt the color of white sauce, and it is capital for flavor- ing stews and ragouts, and also makes a very nice fish sauce. In using it for flavoring put it in before the gravy is thickened, especially if cream be used, lest the sharpness should make it curdle.

Chutney. — Pare and core a quarter of a pound of sharp apples, weigh the same quantity of toma- toes, raisins, figs, brown sugar, and salt. Pound them in a mortar, and pound and mix with them a quarter of an ounce of chilis or Cayenne pepper, the same of powdered ginger, half an ounce each of garlic and shalots. Mix all well together in a large jar, put in three pints of vinegar and one of lemon juice, and stand the jar where it will be in heat amounting

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to 130° Fahrenheit for a month, stirring it twice a day. If sour apples are not to be had, gooseberries will do, but not so well. The top liquor or quihi may be poured off and bottled. It is an excellent fish sauce. The thick part is the chutney, and should be put into wide-mouthed bottles. Both are excellent for flavoring sauces or gravies, or to eat as sauce.

Bkowning. — Beat fine four ounces of refined sugar, and put it into a very clean frying-pan, with one ounce of butter. TVIix them together over a clear fire, and when the sugar froths in dissolving, hold the pan a little off the fire, and when the sugar is of a deep brown pour in by degrees, little by little, and stirring the mixture all the time, a pint of red wine. Stir in half an ounce of allspice, six cloves, four shalots, peeled, a blade of mace, a wineglass of catsup, and the rind of a lemon. Simmer it for ten minutes or a quarter of an hour, pour it into a basin to get cold, then skim it very clean, and bottle it for use. It is good for any brown gravy. Browning is often made for present use by burning a good tea- spoonful of brown sugar in a large iron spoon. Stirred into brown gravy it gives both richness and color. Another browning is made by allowing flour to bake until it is of one uniform dark-brown color. It takes many days, and must be stirred about from time to time while doing.

Mushroom Powder. — Peel the thickest large

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buttons you can get, and just pare off the root end, but do not wash them. Place them on pewter dishes, so that their liquor will dry into them, and put them into a slow oven until they will powder. Beat them up in a mortar, sift the powder through a sieve with a little Cayenne pepper and pounded mace, bottle it, and keep it in a dry place.

Fish Sauce. — Take half a pint of milk and cream together, two eggs well beaten, salt, a little pepper, and the juice of half a lemon. Put it over the fire and stir it constantly until it begins to thicken.

Tomato Sauce.: — Take seven pounds of ripe tomatoes. Skin them, put them in a preserving kettle, with four pounds of sugar, and boil until the sugar penetrates the tomatoes ; add one pint of vinegar, one ounce of cloves, and one ounce of ground cinnamon; boil thirty minutes, and then seal up close in stone jars. This will keep for years.

Musheoom Sauce. — ^Half a pint of button mushrooms, half a pint of good beef gravy, one tablespoonful of mushroom catsup, thickening of butter and flour. Put the gravy into a saucepan, thicken it, and stir it over the fire until it boils. Prepare the mushrooms by cutting off the stalks, and wiping them free from grit and dirt ; the large, flat mushrooms cut into small pieces wdll answer for a sauce, when the buttons are not obtainable. Put them into the gravy, and let them simmer very

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gently for ten minutes, then add the catsup, and serve. When fresh mushrooms are not in season, the mushroom powder makes a good sauce for roast meats.

Beead Sauce. — Cut some bread into slices, adding to it some pepper, an onion, a little salt and butter, and enough boiling milk to cover it. Let it simmer gently before the fire, until the whole of the milk is soaked up by the bread, then add a little thick cream, remove the onion and riib through a hair sieve. Serve very hot in a sauce tureen.

Sauce foe Fowls. — An excellent white sauce for fowls may be made of two ounces of butter, two small onions, one carrot, half a teacupful of flour, one pint of new milk, salt and pepper to taste. Cut up the onions and carrots very small and put them into a stewpan with the butter ; simmer them until the butter is nearly dried up ; then stir in the flour, and add the milk. Boil the whole gently until it thickens, strain it, season with salt and Cayenne, and serve.

Sauce foe Boiled Poultey. — Chop a stick of blanched celery very fine, in a quart of new milk ; let it boil gently in a stewpan, with a few black pepper-corns till reduced to one pint. Stir till the whole is a smooth pulp. Thicken with the yelk of a fresh egg well beaten with half a teacupful of fresh cream.

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SAUCES AND PICKLES.

Savoky Sauce foe a Eoast Goose. — A table- spoonful of made mustard/‘half a teaspoonful of Cayenne pepper, and three spoonfuls of port wine. When mixed, pour this (hot) into the body of the goose before sending it up. It wonderfully improves with sage and onions.

Giblet Sauce. — Take the livers, lights, gizzards, and hearts from fowls. Boil very tender, and chop them fine. Make a nice thin drawn-butter, and stir them in ; or boil and chop them, and use the water in which they were boiled ; season with butter, pepper and salt ; beat up the yelks of two eggs, add them, and keep the sauce stirring until it thickens. This sauce is best for roast fowls.

Sauce for Wild Duck. — A tablespoonful of made mustard, a teaspoonful of essence of anchovies, a pinch of Cayenne pepper, a tablespoonful of mushroom ketchup, and a wineglass of claret. Mix the mustard and anchovy essence thoroughly in a saucepan, add the Cayenne, then the ketchup, a few drops at a time ; the claret last ; heat over a clear fire. Slice the breast of the duck, and pour the sauce over it very hot.

Yenison Rayigote Sauce. — Put three pounds of venison in a vessel ; set on the fire in a pan one pint of vinegar, two bay. leaves, two cloves, two leaves of garlic, one onion sliced, two stalks of thyme, four of parsley, and one dozen pepper-corns. Let it boil, and turn it over the venison. Leave it

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for a day, turning the venison occasionally. Then put the venison in a pan with some spices, and pour the juice and vinegar back ^over it, adding salt and a few pieces of butter, and bake it. If you roast the venison, put the vinegar and spices in the dripping pan, and baste with it. For the sauce take an onion chopped fine and set on the fire with one ounce of butter; when nearly done, add a dessertspoonful of flour, one gill and a half of broth, and stir. Then add the drippings from the venison, and boil gently over a slow fire. The ravigote sauce can be used with beef, mutton or pork. Keep it on the fire five minutes, add chop- ped parsley, and serve.

Geeen Mint Sauce. — The French use this for boiled lamb. It is made by putting green mint, chopped fine, and parsley, in vinegar.

Sauce Eobeet. — Cut a few onions into dice, which put into a frying-pan with a bit of butter, and fry them lightly ; when nicely browned, add a dessertspoonful of flour, a ladleful of stock, the same of vinegar, some salt and pepper ; reduce it to a proper thickness, and when ready for table stir in two dessertspoonfuls of mustard.

Celeey Sauce. — Make half a pint of melted butter, of course, using only milk or cream, or both mixed. Have ready three heads of celery, the white parts well washed and cut up into small bits, and boiled for a few minutes in water, which strain

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off; put the celery to the melted butter, and keep it stirred over the fire for ten or twelve minutes. It is better to put the celery in before the melted butter boils up — as soon as it is hot will do. This is a very nice sauce for boiled fowl or turkey.

Hoeseeadish Sauce. — One tablespoonful of grated horseradish, one saltspoonful of mustard, a pinch of salt, four tablespoonfuls of cream, and two tablespoonfuls of white vinegar. Mix well together, adding the vinegar last, and stirring very rapidly when pouring that on the mixture.

Potato Sauce. — Smoothly mash one large steamed potato when it is hot, and add a little salt, shred-lemon peel and white pepper ; mix with it some dissolved butter, the beaten yelk of a new- laid egg, and pour over it enough boiling milk to render it sufficiently thin in consistency. Gravy instead of milk may be added when a white sauce is not wanted, and potato flour, instead of mashed potato used when easily procured. Any particular flavor may be imparted to this sauce according to taste, such as chopped herbs, olives or pickles.

Rice Sauce. — This is a delicate white sauce for eating with game or chicken, as a change from the usual bread sauce, and is a great deal used in India. Soak a quarter of a pound of rice in a pint of milk, with onion, pepper, and salt. When it is quite tender rub it through a sieve into a stewpan, and boil it. If too thick, thin with cream or milk.

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Wine Sauce. — One cup of butter and two cups of sugar stirred to a cream ; one cup of wine added slowly. Set the bowl in a kettle of hot water three- quarters of an hour before you wish to use it. It must not be stirred or poured out of the bowl.

Madeira Sauce. — Two cups of white sugar, three-quarters of a cup of butter ; beat to a cream, and add by the teaspoonful, a cup of Madeira wine. Mix well, place the bowl containing the mixture in a vessel of boiling water, and stir to a cream. Serve hot.

Pudding Sauce, No. 1. — Beat to a cream one cup of butter with two cups of sugar, one cup of wine to be added slowly. Set the bowl it is in in a kettle of hot water three-quarters of an hour be- fore you wish it for use. It must not be stirred before placing on the table, or poured out of the bowl.

Pudding Sauce, No. 2. — Dissolve two cups of sugar in a cup of butter, and add a wineglassful of wine; beat them well together, and flavor with nutmeg or mace to suit the taste.

Lemon Sauce. — Melt two ounces of butter in a little water ; put in two ounces of sugar, the juice and grated rind of half a lemon, and the pulp and juice of the other half. Boil together five minutes, and serve hot, for cold puddings.

Orange Sauce. — Rub together one ounce of flour and two ounces of butter; put it into a sauce-

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pan, with the juice of four large oranges, the shred rind of half an orange, and two tablespoonfuls of loaf sugar. Stir gently over the fire until all is well mixed, and serve.

Sweet Egg Sauce. — Put the yelks of four hard boiled eggs into a mortar, with an equal weight of fresh butter and sugar ; beat it smooth, then dilute with a sufficiency of either milk or white wine. Add the grated rind of half a lemon ; boil five minutes, and serve.

Sweet Pudding Sauce. — Mix with half a pint of melted butter two dessertspoonfuls of pounded loaf-sugar (with or without a wineglass of sherry), make it quite hot, and pour it over and around the puddings when they are turned out into the dish.

PICKLES.

The general principle of pickling may be soon stated, although it is not universally applicable to all varieties. The vegetables are in the majority of cases placed in strong brine for some hours or days. This is done to extract part of the watery fluids they contain, for by a law well known to chemists, when two liquids are separated by an animal or vegetable membrane, an interchange takes place; but the lighter fluid is more rapidly attracted by the heavier. It follows, therefore, that if vegetables are put into strong brine, the more fluid parts are extracted, and the vegetable becomes less watery than before.

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Great advantage, especially in wholesale manufac- ture, is taken of this circumstance, for, instead of placing tho substances in the first instance, in vinegar, which would be so weakened that it would have to be renewed at a considerable cost, the vege- tables are first pickled in strong brine, and, when the water is extracted, they are finally preserved in vinegar, and bottled. As an example of this method of proceeding we give the following : —

To Pickle Stkikg Beans. — String beans make a deservedly popular pickle, but they should not be more than half grown when gathered ; have them as much of one size as possible, and let a little of the stalk remain upon each. Put them into a brine strong enough for an egg to float in ; let them stay in it for three days, stirring occasionally; place them in a preserving pan, with plenty of vine leaves both over and under them ; cover them in the brine in which they have steeped ; put some- thing over them to keep the steam from escaping, and set them over a very slow fire until they turn green, but they should not be allowed to boil ; drain them in a sieve, and arrange them in a jar; pour upon them a pickle made by heating some ♦ of the best white wine vinegar, which you have flavored with mace, ginger, and pepper. If the beans are already properly greened, the pickle may be employed cold, otherwise use it hot.

It is needless to say that in following out these

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directions the vinegar used should not be boiled in a copper, but, if possible, in an enamelled pan.

Sometimes the salt is more advantageously used dry, as extracting the moisture of the plant more rapidly. The following receipt is an example of this mode of procedure : —

To Pickle Red Cabbage.— Choose a medium- sized fresh red cabbage; tear off the coarse outer leaves, quarter it, remove the stalk, cut the cabbage into slices of about the third of an inch in thick- ness ; place it in a bowl, strew amongst it two good handfuls of salt ; let the whole stand for twenty- four hours ; stirring it once or twice ; drain it as dry as possible; place it loosely in wide-mouthed jars, and fill up with either the prepared vinegar given above, or use strong raw vinegar, adding pepper- corns, capsicums, pieces of ginger, or what other spice you may fancy. This in a day or two will be of a splendid crimson color, and eat deliciously crisp. Those cooks who prefer to boil their vine- gar and spices in an iron pot, and forthwith pour the pickle boiling hot upon the cabbage, may rea- sonably expect soon to find the latter limp, ill- flavored, and of a dismal purplish blue.

The caution here given respecting the boiling the vinegar in an iron vessel is perfectly correct. For, if done, a small quantity of the metal will be dis- solved by the acid, and, although perfectly whole- some, alter materially the fine color which is so much esteemed in this pickle.

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Pickled Nastuktiums. — ^Very frequently nas- turtiums are merely thrown into seasoned vinegar ; they should be gathered in sunshiny weather. Al- though this method answers tolerably well, it is preferable to put the freshly pickled nasturtiums into a strong brine of salt and water, and let them remain in this till they grow somewhat soft ; then cover them with strong vinegar, and they will keep for years.

To Pickle Cabbage a Good Color. — Put a few slices of beet-root amongst it — will find it makes it a very beautiful color, besides being a nice addition to the pickles.

To Pickle Mushrooms. — Rub the buttons with flannel and salt, throw them into a stewpan with a little salt over them, then sprinkle them with some pepper and a small quantity of mace. As the liquor comes out shake them well, and keep them over a gentle fire until all is dried into them again, then put as much vinegar into the pan as will cover them. Give it a scald, and pour the whole into bottles.

Small Onion Pickle. — Small onions, not larger than marbles, must be carefully peeled and thrown into strong brine. Let them remain eight days, changing the brine every other day. Dry in a cloth, place them in bottles, add spice, and fill up with strong distilled vinegar. A teaspoonful of olive oil will prevent the onions from turning yellow. Mus- tard seed, horseradish, allspice, cloves, black pep- 5

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per-corns, and mace are all excellent spices for onions.

Spiced Onions. — Peel large onions and lay them in a jar. Put as much cider vinegar as will cover them in a pot, with cloves, allspice, cinnamon, mace, mustard seed, horseradish. When the vinegar boils pour it over the onions. Let them stand twelve hours. Pour off the vinegar, heat to boiling point, and pour on again until the vinegar has been heated three times, when the onions will be fit for use.

Pickled Onions. — Have the onions gathered when quite dry and ripe, and with the fingers take off the thin outside skin, then with a knife remove one more skin, when the onion will look quite clear. Have ready some very dry bottles or jars, and as fast as the onions are peeled put them in. Pour over sufficient cold vinegar to cover them, add two teaspoonfuls of allspice and two teaspoonfuls of black pepper, taking care that each jar has its share of the latter ingredients. Tie down with bladder, and put them in a dry place, and in a fortnight they will be fit for use. This is a most simple receipt, and very delicious, the onions being nice and crisp. They should be eaten within six or eight months after being done, as the onions are liable to become soft.

To Pickle Beet-koot. — This vegetable makes an excellent pickle, and from the brightness of its color has a very pretty effect in a glass pickle dish or jar. Wash the beet perfectly. Do not cut off

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any of the fibrous roots, as this would allow the juice to escape, and thus the coloring would be lost. Put it into sufficient water to boil it, and when the skin will come off it will be sufficiently cooked, and may be taken out and laid upon a cloth to cool. Having rubbed off the skin cut the beet into thick slices, put it into a jar, and pour over it cold vine- gar, prepared as follows : Boil a quart of vinegar with one ounce of whole black pepper, and an equal weight of dry ginger, and let it stand until quite cold. The jar should be kept closely corked.

Carolina Chow-Chow. — The evening before you wish to make your pickle take the cabbage, chop it up fine, say a water-pailful, put a layer of cabbage, sprinkle with salt, and so on until the ves- sel is full, place a plate on it to press it down, and let it stand until morning. Prepare ten large onions in the same way, spread the cabbage on a cloth, and let it remain while you are preparing your vinegar. Take one gallon of the best vinegar and sweeten to your taste, put into a bowl some mustard, two ounces of pulverized cinnamon, two ounces of tur- meric, two ounces of white mustard seed, two ounces of celery seed, half a pint of grated horseradish, mix all well together in the vinegar, and let it come to a boil, then put in the cabbage and onions and let them boil about ten minutes. If too thick add vinegar. You can use salad oil, half a teacupful, if you like it, and other spices.

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Pickle Chow-Chow. — A quarter of a peck of green tomatoes, a quarter of a peck of white onions, a quarter of a peck of pickling beans, one dozen green cucumbers, one dozen green peppers, one large head of cabbage. Season with mustard, celery seed, salt, to suit the taste. Cover the mixture with the best vinegar. Boil two hours slowly, continually stirring, and add two tablespoonfuls of salad oil while hot.

Chow-Chow. — (Excellent.) — To one peck of green tomatoes add three good sized onions, six pep- pers with the seeds taken out. Chop together and boil three minutes in three quarts of vinegar. Throw this vinegar away after straining. Then to three quarts of new vinegar, when scalding hot, add two cups of sugar, one cup of mixed mustard, one table- spoonful of cloves, one of allspice, two of cinnamon, three of salt. Pour over the tomatoes hot.

Old Virginia Chow-Chow. — Three pecks of ripe tomatoes, three of green tomatoes, five large heads of cabbage, one dozen large onions, one dozen ripe peppers, one dozen green peppers, half a pound of celery. Chop all very fine, cover with salt, and soak twenty-four hours. Then drain the brine off, thoroughly cover with strong vinegar, and add three pounds of sugar. Scald one hour, add one cup of grated horseradish, two tablespoonfuls of white mustard seed, one of cloves, two of allspice, two of ginger, and one of ground mustard. Cover close for one month, when it will be ready for use.

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India Pickle. — ^Quarter of a pound of ginger, half an ounce of ground cloves, half an ounce of chil- lies, four ounces of black pepper, two of ground all- spice, four of coarse salt, two of garlic, two of escha- lots, quarter of a pound of mustard seed, and a small piece of alum, all put into two gallons of pure cider or white wine vinegar, and boiled half an hour. Mix half a pound of mustard and quarter of a pound of tannin, smoothe with a little vinegar, and add to the above pickle. Let it just come to a boil, then pour into a deep jar. Put into this pickle all vege- tables as they come in their season, being careful to have them well dried. Let them remain in the pickle three weeks, then bottle for use. This will keep perfectly good three years.

Yellow Pickle. — Have firm white cabbages cut in quarters ; put into strong brine for two or three days; then scald them in clear water until you can run a straw in them ; take them out and dry them for twenty-four hours in the sun, or by the stove, as may be most convenient; then put them in strong cider vinegar, with powdered tur- meric sufficient to color the cabbage, and let them remain in the vinegar about ten days. White onions managed the same way ; also lemons whole. Cucumbers — white are the best — must not be scalded or dried, but only changed from the brine to the vinegar colored with the turmeric. After re- maining in the turmeric vinegar ten or twelve days, take the fruit and vegetables out of it, and put

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them in a sieve or on a plank, and let all the vine- gar drain from them for two or three hours. Have the following spices, etc., prepared ready, and pack them in a jar, a layer of fruit and vegetables and a layer of spices until the jar is three parts full ; then fill up with vinegar — cider vinegar ; after a day or two pour the vinegar from them, scald it, and to every gallon of vinegar add five pounds of sugar while the vinegar is boiling. Be sure to keep the pickle covered with the vinegar. For each gallon of pickle, three ounces of turmeric, two ounces of white ginger, two ounces of white pepper, quarter of an ounce of mace beaten fine, four ounces of horseradish shredded fine, four ounces of garlic, two ounces of white mustard seed, half an ounce of celery seed, whole. The pickle should have a tight cover at all times, and, during the warm weather, be frequently placed in the sun.

Pickled Eed Cabbage. — Cut the red cabbage in thin slices, spread it on a sieve and sprinkle with salt. Let it drain for twenty-four hours, dry it, pack it in pickle jars, fill them with cold vinegar, put in spice to taste, and tie the jars up firmly with bladder. Open the jars in a few days, and if the cabbage has shrunk, fill up with vinegar.

Aetichokes Pickled. — Boil the artichokes till you can pull the leaves off ; take out the choke and cut away the stalk, but be careful that the knife does not touch the top; throw them into salt and

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water. When they have lain an hour, take them out and drain them ; then put them into glasses or jars, and put a little mace and sliced nutmeg be- tween; fill them with vinegar and spring water, and cover your jars close.

Qhekkins.- — ^Steep them in strong brine for a week, then pour it off ; lieat it to the boiling point, and again pour it on the gherkins. In twenty-four hours drain the fruit on a sieve ; put it in wide- mouthed bottles or jars ; fill them up with strong pickling vinegar, boiling hot, bung them down at once and tie them over with bladder. When cold, dip the corks into melted bottle-wax. Spice is usually added to the bottles, or else steeped in the vinegar.

To Make Lemon Pickle. — Take some lemons and grate them slightly; cut them down at one end in four places, which fill up with salt ; lay them at the bottom of a jar, and strew over them horse- radish, (shred,) pepper, garlic, bruised ginger, Cay- enne, a little turmeric, or, if preferred, half a spoon- ful of curry powder, and plenty of mustard seed ; then add some more lemons again, and so on with the different ingredients until the lemons are all in the jar. Pour over some strong cold vinegar, as much as will cover the pickle ; tie the jar over with a bladder, and set it in a pan of water. Let it boil slowly until the lemons become tender. The pickles will be fit for use in less than a week, if required.

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SAUCES AND PICKLES.

Tomato Catsup, No. 1. — Scald ripe tomatoes, and remove the skin. Let them stand a day, covered with salt ; strain thoroughly to remove the seeds. To every two quarts of the liquor add three ounces of cloves, two of black pepper, two grated nutmegs, a little Cayenne pepper, and salt. Boil all together for half an hour, then let the mixture cool and settle ; add a pint of the best cider vine- gar ; bottle, cork tightly, and seal. Keep in a cool place.

Tomato Catsup, No. 2. — Boil one bushel of ripe tomatoes until perfectly soft; squeeze them through a fine wire sieve, add half a gallon of vinegar, one pint and a half of salt, two ounces of cloves, quarter of a pound of allspice, two ounces of Cayenne pepper, three teaspoonfuls of black pepper, five heads of garlic, skinned and separated. Mix together, and boil three hours ; it should re- duce to one-half. Bottle without straining.

Tomato Soy. — To one peck of green tomatoes, sliced thin, add one pint of salt ; stand twenty-four hours, strain, and put on the fire with twelve raw onions, an ounce of black pepper, one ounce of all- spice, quarter of a pound of ground mustard, half a pound of white mustard seed, and a little Cayenne pepper. Cover with vinegar and boil till as thick as a jam, stirring occasionally with a wooden spoon, to prevent burning.

Kipe Cucumber Pickle. — Pare them, take out

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the seeds, cut in rings an inch thick ; then simmer in weak alum water an hour ; take them out, drain them, and lay them carefully in a jar ; then prepare a syrup of one gallon good vinegar, two cups sugar, one ounce cinnamon, one ounce ginger-root ; pour it hot over your pickles. This is a delightful pickle, and will keep sealed up a long time.

Geeen Cucumber Pickle. — Make a brine by putting one pint of rock-salt into a pail of boiling water, and pour it over the cucumbers ; cover tight to keep in the steam, and let them remain all night and part of a day ; make a second brine as above, and let them remain in it the same length of time ; then scald and skim the brine, as it will answer for the third brine, and let them remain in it as above ; then rinse and wipe them dry, and add boiling hot vinegar ; throw in a lump of alum as large as a nut to every pail of pickles, and you will have a fine, hard, and green pickle. Add spices, if you like, and keep the pickles under the vinegar. A brick on the top of the cover, which keeps the pickles under, has a tendency to collect the scum which may arise.

Pickled Eggs, No. 1. — Obtain a moderate-sized, wide-mouthed earthen jar, sufficient to hold one dozen eggs ; let the latter be boiled quite hard ; when fully done, place the same, after taking them up, into a pan of cold water. Remove the shells from them, and deposit them carefully in the jar.

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Have on the fire a quart (or more, if necessary) of good white wine vinegar, into which introduce one ounce of raw ginger, two or three blades of sweet mace, one ounce of allspice, half an ounce of whole black pepper, and salt, half an ounce of mustard seed, with four cloves of garlic. When it has sim- mered for half an hour take it up, and pour the contents into the jar, taking care to observe that the eggs are wholly covered. When quite cold, stopper it down for use. It will be ready after a month. When cut into quarters, they serve as a garnish, and afford a nice relish to cold meat of any kind.

Pickled Eggs, No. 2. — Boil two or three dozen eggs for half an hour, then, after removing the shells, lay them carefully in large-mouthed jars, and pour over them scalding vinegar, well seasoned with whole pepper, allspice, a few races of ginger, and a few cloves of garlic. When cold, they are bunged down close, and in a month are fit for use. Where eggs are plentiful, the above pickle is by no means expensive, and, as an accompaniment to cold meat, it cannot be outrivalled for piquancy and gout.

Piccalilli. — Take anything that can be pickled, such as onions, sliced cucumbers, cabbage, mangoes, peppers, squashes, small green tomatoes, cauliflowers, martenoes, celery, green beans, nasturtiums, radish pods, watermelon rinds, small green cucumbers, and Chili peppers. Lay them in salt and water, with

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enough turmeric to turn them yellow. Let them stand twenty-four hours, stirring frequently ; then drain, and dry them and put them into the jars. To every quart of vinegar, allow a tablespoonful of mustard seed, one of turmeric, and a handful of whole black pepper, one clove of garlic. Spice to your taste with mace, ginger, cloves, red pepper, and horseradish. Boil all but the mustard seed in a bag in the vinegar. Let the vinegar stand till cold. Boil one dozen eggs quite hard, mash them in enough sweet oil to make a paste ; then stir it in the vinegar, which pour over the pickles. Put one handful of salt in every jar. They should stand three days, well tied up, when they will be fit for use.

Picia^ED Walnuts, No. 1. — One hundred wal- nuts, salt and water. To each quart of vinegar allow two ounces of whole black pepper, one ounce of allspice, one ounce of bruised ginger. Procure the walnuts while young, and prick them well with a fork. Prepare a strong brine of salt and water (four pounds of salt to each gallon of water), into which put the walnuts, letting them remain nine days, and changing the brine every third day. Drain them olF, put them on a dish, and place it in the sun until they become perfectly black, which will be in two or three days. Have ready dry jars, into which place the walnuts, and do not quite fill the jars. Boil sufficient vinegar to cover them for ten minutes, with spices in the above proportion, and

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pour it hot over the walnuts, which must be quite covered with the pickle. Tie down with bladder and keep in a dry place. They will be fit for use in a month, and will keep good two or three years.

Pickled Walnuts, No. 2. — Take one hundred walnuts, soft enough to allow a needle to pass through them, lay them in water, with a good hand- ful of salt, for two days, then change to fresh water and another handful of salt, for three days, then drain and lay them on some clean straw or a sieve in the sun until quite black and wrinkled ; after- wards put into a clean, dry glass bottle or jar a quar- ter of an ounce of allspice, quarter of an ounce of mace, quarter of an ounce of ginger, half a pint of mustard seed, and half an ounce of pepper-corns ; these to be mixed in layers with the walnuts until your walnuts are all used, then pour over them boil- ing vinegar to cover them. Ready for use in two months.

Sweet Peach Pickles. — ^To nine pounds of firm clingstone peaches (peeled) take three pounds of brown sugar and an ounce each of cinnamon bark, cloves, mace, and allspice, and a quart of good vine- gar. Put the sugar, vinegar, and spices in a clean preserving kettle, and let it boil thoroughly. Have the peaches in a large jar, and when the vinegar, sugar, and spices have been skimmed, and while boiling, pour over the peaches. Do this for nine consecutive days, pouring off the liquid every morn-

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ing, and boiling again and scalding the peaches. Tie and put in a cool place.

Sweet Pickle. — Select fine cantaloupe or citron melons, ripe, but firm, pare and seed them, and slice or quarter them. Weigh the fruit, and to five pounds of melon allow two and a half pounds of white sugar and one quart of vinegar. The vinegar and sugar must be heated, well skimmed, and poured boiling over the fruit six times. In the last boiling of the syrup add the spices — stick cinnamon, white ginger, and a few cloves — and when the syrup boils put in the citron and let it boil for ten minutes, then put it in the jars, skim the syrup clear, and pour over it.

Sweet Tomato Pickles. — Chop one peck of green tomatoes, four onions, and six green peppers. Strew over them one cup of salt, and let them stand all night. Next day drain off* the water from them, and add to them one cup of sugar (or more, if liked), one cup of grated horseradish, one table- spoonful of cinnamon, one of cloves, and one of allspice. Cover with vinegar and cook till tender.

Geeen Tomato Pickle. — Slice two gallons of green tomatoes, put them into a pan with a layer of salt, and then of tomatoes, with half a dozen of onions sliced, and alternately put with the toma- toes and salt, and let them remain in salt all night. The next morning rinse and drain well. Put them into a kettle with one gallon of strong cider vine-

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gar, half a gallon of brown sugar, four tablespoon- fuls of mustard, four of ground allspice, four of ground ginger, five of cinnamon, four of cloves, four of black pepper, four of celery seed, half a dozen red or green peppers, sliced fine, two teaspoon- fuls of ground mace, and four tablespoonfuls of olive oil. Let it boil three or four hours, then, if the vinegar is not as strong as it should have been, while the pickles are still warm, add a quart of cold vinegar. This pickle has been considered as good as ‘‘ chow chow,^^ and will keep for years.

Tomatoes. — Always use those which are thor- oughly ripe. The small round ones are decidedly the best. Do not prick them, as most receipt books direct. Let them lie in strong brine three or four days, then piit them down in layers in your jars, mixing with them small onions and pieces of horse- radish, then pour on the vinegar (cold), which should be first spiced as for peppers. Let there be a spice bag to throw into every pot. Cover them carefully, and set them by in the cellar for a full month before using.

Spiced Tomatoes. — Two pounds of tomatoes, one pound of brown sugar, half a pint of good cider vinegar, one dozen cloves, and two dozen grains of allspice. Put these ingredients into a preserving kettle, and stew them over a slow fire. When they have been in sufficiently long to cook the tomatoes tolerably well take them up and place them on a

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dish to cool, but continue slowly boiling the syrup. When the tomatoes become cool put them back into the syrup and boil them until they are of a dark red color ; then take them out again, put them on a dish to cool, and continue boiling the syrup until it is as thick as molasses. When the tomatoes and syrup are both cool put it into jars and tie paper over the mouths.

Mixed Pickle. — To each gallon of vinegar allow quarter pound of bruised ginger, quarter pound of mustard, quarter pound of salt, two ounces of mus- tard seed, one and a half ounce of turmeric, one ounce of ground black pepper, quarter ounce of Cayenne, cauliflowers, onions, celery, sliced cucuili- bers, gherkins, French beans, nasturtiums, capsi- cums. Have a large jar, with a tightly fitting lid, in which put as much vinegar as is required, reserving a little to mix the various powders to a smooth paste. Put into a basin the mustard, turmeric, pep- per, and Cayenne. Mix them with vinegar, and stir well until no lumps remain ; add all the ingre- dients to the vinegar, and mix well. Keep this liquor in a warm place, and thoroughly stir every morning for a month with a wooden spoon, when it will be ready for the different vegetables to be added to it. As these come into season have them gath ered on a dry day, and, after merely wiping them with a cloth to free them from moisture, put them into the pickle. The cauliflowers, it may be said, must be divided into small bunches. Put all these

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into the pickle raw, and at the end of the season, when there have been added as many of the vegeta- bles as could be procured, store it away in jars, and tie over with bladder. As none of the ingredients are boiled, this pickle will not be fit to eat till tw^elve months have elapsed. Whilst the pickle is being made, keep a wooden spoon tied to the jar ; and its contents, it may be repeated, must be stirred every morning.

Cold Catsup. — One half peck of tomatoes, one half gallon of vinegar, half a teacup of salt, half a teacup of mustard seed, ground or broken, four pods of red pepper, cut very fine, one teacup of grated horseradish, two tablespoonfuls of ground pepper, two tablespoonfuls of celery seed. After peeling and mashing up the tomatoes the whole must be well mixed, put into bottles, and corked tightly. It is soon ready for use.

Pepper Catsup. — Fifty pods of large red pep- pers, with the seeds. Add a pint of vinegar, and boil until the pulp will mash through a sieve. Add to the pulp a second pint of vinegar, two spoonfuls of sugar, cloves, mace, spice, onions, and salt. Put all in a kettle and boil to a proper consistency.

CHAPTER IV.

MEATS.

Stewed Beef. — A rump of ten pounds weight will require three hours^ stewing. At first, it may be slowly but partly boiled, after which it is to simmer very slowly indeed. Have a saucepan, not over large, for the meat, and, at the bottom, fix two skewers, to prevent the meat touching the pan. Pour over it one pint and a half of cold water at the sides, two or three onions — if not very large — partly in pieces, and on the top put as many carrots as you may wish, cut into good-sized dice. Before dishing the meat, you must thicken the gravy as usual with flour and a little burnt sugar, to make the gravy (of which there should be a good deal) brown.

Rump op Beef. — This is one of the most juicy of all the joints of beef, but is more frequently stewed than roasted. As it is generally too large to serve whole, cut as much from the chump end as will make a handsome roast. Manage it as the sirloin. When boned, roll it into the form of a fillet of veal, and bake.

Spanish Steak.— Cut some onions very fine 6 79

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and put into a frying pan with plenty of butter, boiling hot. When fried quite tender, push to the back of the pan. Season a tender loin of beef with pepper and salt, put it on the pan, and cook till done. Put the onions over it, and pour in the pan sufficient boiling water to make a rich gravy. Let all stew five minutes, and serve.

Beef Stewed with Onions. — Cut some tender beef into small pieces, and season with pepper and salt ; slice some onions and add to it, with water enough in the stewpan to make a gravy. Let it stew slowly till the beef is thoroughly cooked, then add some pieces of butter rolled in flour, enough to make a rich gravy. Cold beef may be cooked in the same way, but the onions must then be cooked before adding them to the meat. Add more water if it dries too fast, but let it be boiling, when poured in.

Brisket of Beef Stuffed. — A piece weigh- ing eight pounds requires about five or six hours to boil. Make a dressing of bread crumbs, pepper, salt, sweet herbs, a little mace, and one onion chopped fine and mixed with an egg. Put the dressing between the fat and the lean of the beef, and sew it up tightly ; flour a cloth, pin the beef in it, as closely pressed as possible, and boil five or six hours. Remove the cloth, and press the meat until it is cold. Cut in thin slices, and eat cold. Ex- cellent for sandwiches.

A LA MODE Beef. — Prepare a dressing with

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bread or crackers^ moisten with water seasoned with butter^ pepper, salt, nutmeg, cloves, and, if relished, allspice ; add two eggvS, and mix the whole well together. Have ready a round of beef of the proper size for the family ; cut gashes in it, and fill them with the dressing. Bind it together with skewers, and put it in a bake-pan with water enough to cover the bottom of the pan, in which is dissolved a little salt. Baste it three or four times with the salted water while cooking. Let it stew gently. When nearly done, cover it with dressing reserved for the purpose. Heat the lid to the. pan sufficiently hot to brown it, cover and stew until done. It can be stewed in a dripping-pan, in a stove-oven, and browned when done by holding over it, if not already browned, a heated shovel. The dressing should be poured over it half an hour before taking it from the pan.

Beef Cutlets. — Cut the inside of a sirloin or rump in slices half an inch thick ; trim them neatly ; melt a little butter in a frying-pan ; season the cut- lets ; fry them lightly ; serve with tomato sauce.

Fillet of Beef with Musheooms. — Cut the fillet into slices, and pour over them some melted butter, seasoned with pepper and salt; let them stand for an hour ; then put them in a frying pan over a quick fire, to brown lightly ; take them out, and put in the pan flour enough to thicken and brown, mix smoothly, add some stock, and some

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mushrooms half stewed or parboiled ; put the fillet back and cook all together till done. When ready to serve, squeeze in the juice of a lemon. The gravy should be .smooth and thick. ♦

This dish is good substituting tomatoes for mush- rooms, and may be varied by using wine instead of lemon-juice.

Fillet of Beef. — Take the sirloin or second cut of the ribs ; take out the bones with a sharp knife, skewer it round in good shape ; lay the bones in a large saucepan, with two onions, one carrot and a dozen cloves; add the meat, just covered with water. Let it cook slowly two hours; dish the meat ; skim all the fat from the gravy, add some flour mixed with cold water, and two spoonfuls of walnut catsup ; give all one boil. Turn part of the gravy over the meat, and serve the rest in a gravy tureen.

English Beef Pie. — Cut cold roast beef, or beefsteak into thin slices, and put a layer in a deep pie dish ; shake in a little flour, pepper and salt ; chop a tomato or an onion very fine, and spread on this. Another layer of beef and seasoning, another onion, and so on, until the dish is filled. Add beef gravy, or dripping, and water sufficient to make a gravy. Mash one dozen large potatoes, with half a teacup of milk or cream, and a little butter and salt. Spread this over the beef as a crust, an inch thick. Brush with beaten egg, and bake half an hour.

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Beefsteak Pie. — Cover the bottom of a deep plate with paste. Cut the beef in pieces convenient for the mouth ; spread them evenly over the paste ; then add butter, flour, pepper, salt and water; cover with paste, press the edges firmly, and cut a gash in the centre of the pie ; it is good cold or hot. If to be used cold, make a gravy by boiling a bit of the bone, seasoning it the same as the pie ; heat the gravy, and serve it with the pie. Potatoes are all the vegetables needed — they should be mashed. These pies can be made from cold beefsteak left the day before, but are not quite as good.

Beefsteak Pudding. — Prepare a good suet crust, and line a cake tin with it ; put in layers of raw steak, with onions, tomatoes and mushrooms, chopped fine, a seasoning of pepper, salt and Cayenne, and half a cup of cold water. Cover with crust, and bake two hours. Serve very hot.

Beefsteak Smotheeed with Onions. — Cut up six onions very fine ; put them into a saucepan with two cupfuls of hot water, about two ounces of good butter, some pepper and salt; dredge in a little flour. Let it stew until the onions are quite soft ; then have the steak broiled ; put it into the saucepan with the onions ; let it simmer about ten minutes, and send to the table very hot.

Minced Beef. — Take the lean of some cold roast beef. Chop it very fine, adding a small

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minced onion ; and season it with pepper and salt. Put it into a stewpan, with some of the gravy that has been left from the day before, and let it stew for a quarter of an hour. Then put it (two-thirds full) into a deep dish. Fill up the dish with mashed potatoes, heaped high in the centre, smoothed on the surface, and browned with a salamander or a red- hot shovel.

Beef Balls. — Mince very finely a piece of tender beef, fat and lean; mince an onion, with some boiled parsley; add grated bread crumbs, and season with pepper, salt, grated nutmeg, and lemon peel ; mix all together, and moisten with a well- beaten egg ; roll into balls ; flour, and fry them in boiling beef dripping. Serve with fried bread crumbs, or a thickened beef gravy.

Mock Venison of Coened Beef. — Cut the beef in thin slices, and freshen by soaking for three or four hours in tepid water. When sufficiently fresh, lay the slices on a gridiron, and heat through quickly. Make a gravy of drawn butter ; add a little pepper, and the yelk of an egg chopped fine, and pour over the meat ; or butter, pepper and salt, like beefsteak. This will be found a savory dish when only salt meat can be procured, but is better with fresh beef.

Hash Balls of Coened Beef. — Prepare the hash by mincing with potatoes ; make it into flat

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cakes ; heat the griddle^ and grease it with plenty of sweet butter; brown the balls first on one. side, and then on the other, and serve hot.

Yobkshiee Pudding, with Eoast Beef. — Five tablespoonfuls of flour mixed with one of salt, one pint of milk, and three well-beaten eggs. Butter a square pan, and put the batter in it ; set it in the oven until it rises and is slightly crusted on top; then place it under your beef roasting before the fire, or in the oven, and baste it as you do your meat.

CoENED Beef, Boiled. — ^Wash it thoroughly, and put it in a pot that will hold plenty of water. The water should boil when the beef is put in, and great care should be taken to skim it often. Half an hour for every pound of meat is sufficient time. Corn beef, to be tender and juicy, should boil very gently and long. If it is to be eaten cold, take it from the pot when boiled, and lay it in an earthen dish or pan, with a piece of board upon it, the size of the meat. Upon this put a heavy stone or couple of flat irons. It greatly improves salt meat to press it.

CoENED Beef Hash. — The best hash is made from boiled corned beef. It should be boiled very tender, and chopped fine when entirely cold. The potatoes for hash made of corned beef are the better for being boiled in the pot liquor. When taken from the pot, remove the skins from the potatoes, and when cold chop them fine. To a cup of

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chopped meat allow four of chopped potatoes ; stir the potatoes gradually into the meat^ until the whole is mixed. Do this at evenings and^ if warm^ set the hash in a cool place. In the morning put the pan on the fire with a lump of butter as large as the bowl of a tablespoon | add a dust of pepper^ and if not sufficiently salt^ add a little • usually none is needed. When the butter has melted^ put the hash in the pan • add four tablespoons of water^ and stir the whole together. After it has become really hot^ stir it from the bottom, cover a plate over it, and set the pan where it will merely stew. This is a moist hash, and preferred by some to dry or browned hash.

Pickling Beef. — ^Eub a quarter of a pound of saltpetre and a little brown sugar on the beef ; the following day season it with half a pound of bay salt, one ounce of black pepper, one ounce of allspice. Let the beef lie in pickle fourteen days, turning it every day, adding a little common salt three times per week ; then wash it, and put it into a glazed earthen pipkin, deep enough to cover it. Lay beef suet under it; add one pint of water, cover the top with paste and then paper, or with a plate instead of paste. Bake seven hours in an oven ; pour off the liquor, but do not cut till cold. Will keep three months.

Potted Ox-Tongue. — Broil tender and un- smoked tongue of good flavor, and the following

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day cut from it the quantity desired for potting, or take for this purpose the remains of one which has already been served at table. Trim off the skin and rind, weigh the meat, mince it very small, then pound it as fine as possible, with four ounces of but- ter to each pound of tongue, a small teaspoonful of mace, half as much of nutmeg or cloves, and a tolerably high seasoning of Cayenne. After the spices are well beaten with the meat, taste it, and add more if required. A few ounces of any well- roasted meat mixed with the tongue, will give it firmness. The breasts of turkeys, fowls, partridges, or pheasants may be used for this purpose with good effect.

Tongue Toast. — Take cold tongue that has been well boiled, mince it fine, mix it with cream, or a little milk, if there is no cream at hand ; add the beaten yelk of an egg, and give it a simmer over the fire. Toast nicely some thin slices of stale bread, and having buttered them, lay them in a fiat dish that has been heated before the fire ; then cover each slice with the tongue mixture, which should be kept quite hot, and serve up imme- diately.

Tongue, after it has been boiled, cut into thick slices, and stewed in a rich, brown gravy, makes a very nice corner-dish.

Spiced Teipe. — Take fresh tripe, cut it up in pieces four or five inches square ; take an earthen

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jar, put in a layer of tripe, then sprinkle a few cloves, allspice, and peppers (whole) over it; then another layer of tripe, then spice, and so on till the jar is full ; take good vinegar, scald it, pour over it, filling the jar full ; cover it up and stand it away in a cool place for a few days, until it tastes of the spice, then serve it up cold for supper or any other meal. It is an excellent relish.

Potted Beef. — Salt three pounds of lean beef, with half a pound of salt, and half an ouno^ of salt- petre. Let it stand three days. Divide it into pieces weighing a pound each, and put it in an earthen pan of just sufficient si^e to contain it; pour over it half a pint of water, cover it close with paste, and set it in a slow oven for four hours. When taken from the oven, pour the gravy into a basin, shred the meat fine, moisten %it with the gravy poured from the meat, and pound it thor- oughly in a marble mortar, with fresh butter, until it becomes a fine paste ; season it with black pepper and allspice, ground cloves, or grated nutmeg ; put it in pots, press it down as closely as possible, put a weight on it, and let it stand all night ; next day, cover it a quarter of an inch thick with clarified butter, and tie paper over it.

Bubble and Squeak. — Take from a round of cold, boiled beef, one pound and a half of meat cut in thin slices, two carrots which have been boiled with the meat, cold, and the hearts of two boiled

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greens, cold. Cut the meat into small squares, and chop the vegetables together ; pepper and salt the whole, and fry in a pan with a quarter of a pound of sweet butter. When fully cooked, toss into the pan half a gill of catsup, and serve, with mashed potatoes.

Beef Cakes, No. 1. — Pound some beef that is under-done with a little fat bacon or ham ; season with pepper, salt, and a little shallot or garlic ; mix them well, and make into small cakes three inches long, and half as wide and thick ; fry them a light brown, and serve them in a good thick gravy.

Beef Cakes, No. 2. — Take the best sirloin of beef, one pound; boil it until soft; boil also a beef tongue until soft. Take one pound of tongue, chop it and the sirloin very fine, with quarter of a pound of suet, and quarter of a pound of raisins. After you have made them as fine as you can, add pepper and salt to taste, also one teaspoonful of cloves, one teaspoonful of allspice, one onion chopped fine, one tablespoonful of flour. Mix all well together, form into cakes, and fry in butter.

Beef Ceoquettes. — Mince some dressed beef very fine ; melt a piece of butter in a stewpan, add three or four onions chopped fine, and fried a light brown ; add a spoonful of flour, and moisten with gravy or stock, season with pepper, salt, nutmeg and chopped parsley. When the sauce is cooked.

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put in the minced beef, stew ten minutes, or till the sauce is dry, form the meat into balls, dip each into beaten white of egg. Have some lard and butter hot, but not boiling or the balls will break. Put each ball gently into the frying-pan, shaking a little flour over them ; roll them about gently in the pan, to brown evenly, and when a good color, drain and serve on dressed parsley.

To Poll Loin of Mutton. — Hang the mutton till tender, bone it, and lay a seasoning of pepper, allspice, mace, nutmeg, and a few cloves, all in fine powder over it. Next day prepare a stuffing; beat the meat, and cover it with the stuffing ; roll it up tight and tie it. Half bake it in a slow oven ; let it grow cold ; take off the fat, and put the gravy into a stewpan ; flour the meat, and put it in like- wise ; stew it till almost ready ; and add a glass of port-wine, some catsup, and a little lemon pickle half an hour before serving ; serve it in the gravy, with jelly sauce.

Panned Mutton. — Eemove all the fat from mutton cutlets, and trim neatly. Set them in melted butter, luke-warm, with pepper and salt. Dip each into beaten yelk of egg, and afterwards in grated bread crumbs. Repeat the dipping till the cutlets are well covered with crumbs. Broil on a gridiron over a clear fire for ten minutes. Serve plain or with sauce, as preferred.

Mutton Cutlets. — The most economical way

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of proceeding is to purchase a piece of the best end of a neck of mutton and divide and trim your chops at home. Every particle of gristle and almost all the fat should be removed from each cutlet, the bone or rib should not be more than two inches long, from the cutlet itself or ^^nut,^^ and it should be scraped quite clean. Saw the bone at the end, as it looks badly chopped. Cut the meat about one-third of an inch thick, prepare neatly, and beat gently with the flat side of a meat chopper ; *you may cook them plain or crumbed.

The plain process consists in broiling them on the gridiron over or in front of a clear fire. The fire should be a brisk one, and the cutlets should be turned quickly and frequently while cooking. They should be thoroughly cooked, but not kept cooking till hard and tough.

Plain cutlets may also be fried in butter and lard. Crumbed cutlets require more trouble to prepare. The streak of meat with the fat and gristle which adheres to the bone need not be cut off, but detatched from the bone, and turned up on the side of the nut.^^ Smear the cutlet thickly with well beaten egg, and dip several times in bread crumbs till thickly covered. Fry iii butter and lard.

Cutlets may be served in a plain, clear gravy, or with tomato or mushroom sauce.

Mutton cutlets may also be stewed in a variety of ways, of which the following may be taken as

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the common form : Put some butter in a stewpan, and place your cutlets in this^ turning them over and over until they are well saides (seized) by the butter ; then add a small quantity of well-flavored stock or gravy, and let them simmer in this till done, when they are served with the gravy, which you thicken, if necessary, with a little flour, over them. Vegetables may be cooked with the cutlets, and served with them, or a garniture of vegetables, cooked separately, can be put round the dish.

Muttok Cutlets a la Bene. — Take six chops from the best end of a neck of mutton, and after sawing off* the ends, braise them until they are tender. Put them aside to cool. Make a thick, rich onion sauce, season it well, and run it through a sieve ; then take the braised chops, when they are perfectly cold, and cut them into cutlets, and trim them into a proper shape. Dip each cutlet into the onion sauce, then into bread crumbs, and afterwards into egg and bread crumbs. Pry them in boiling lard, a light brown color ; drain them well, and serve with or without tomato sauce.

Shoulder of Mutton. — A shoulder of mutton weighing six pounds requires one hour and thirty minutes to roast ; if stuffed, fifteen minutes longer. Before cooking, take out all the bone and fill the space with a dressing of bread crumbs, pepper, salt, parsley, sweet marjoram, one egg and a small piece of butter, all well mixed.

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Mutton peepaeed like Venison. — Choose a large leg of mutton^ and let it hang in a cool place ten days. Prepare a good forcemeat^ and make a deep slit near the bone at the fillet end. Put in the forcemeat and sew over it a piece of linen to keep it in. Eoast for two hours and thirty minutes. Make a gravy with the shank bone^ one pound of soup beef^ one onion^ a few whole peppers^ salt^ and a pint and a half of water. Let this simmer for two hours. Add a dessertspoonful of flour to thicken it; a little burnt sugar^ if not dark enough in color^ and more seasoning if necessary. When the meat is done^ remove the linen cloth^ strain part of the gravy over it^ and serve. The remainder of the gravy should be served in a gravy-boat. Currant jelly should always be served with this dish. Saddle of Mutton, a la Poetuouese. — To make this dish to look well, the saddle should be so carved as to have the sides left. When cold, the fillet, or undercut, and surplus meat is to be removed and cut small, and placed in a stewpan, with a little thickened gravy, mushroom catsup, pepper and salt. It should not be allowed to boil, but when hot should be placed on the saddle in the space from which the meat has been cut, and sprinkled over with bread crumbs. It must be ^ levelled to the sides, and placed in the oven. If the bread crumbs are not brown enough, a sala- mander must be made hot, and placed over it; it should be served very hot with currant jelly.

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MEATS.

COLD MUTTOlSr,

There are not many people who object to eating cold beef^ but there seems to be a popular prejudice against cold mutton. As far as looks go^ when two or three persons have dined off a leg of mutton the day before^ no amount of parsley^ be it ever so curly and fresh, can make it look nice ; but as a matter of taste cold meat, be it beef or mutton, is by no means devoid of merit at certain seasons, and with a proper accompaniment of salads, pickles, and sauces. Only to be perfect a cold joint should not be touched until it is cold ; the joint of yesterday^s dinner is quite a different affair. It is not every- body who can indulge, however, in such niceties of taste. Given a leg of mutton it must be used, and made to go as far as possible to furnish the second and even the third day^s dinner.

If you wish to be very economical with a leg of mutton you should carve it pretty much as you do a ham, then the next day put it for twenty minutes into a vessel containing boiling water, take it out and sprinkle some salt and a little flour over it, and put it to roast for twenty minutes before a good fire, basting frequently with some dripping, melted for the purpose. The result will be a very fair second edition of roast leg of mutton. Some, however, may object to carving mutton after the fashion of ham, and in that case a hash or a mince are the only ways of turning cold mutton to account ; but there

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are many ways of hashing mutton and other meats, and of mincing them, too.

The great desideratum of a second-hand dish, so to speak, is that it should not taste as such. Noth- ing is more abominable than the bad taste which is so prominent in the attempts at warming up cold meat, which your plain cook is pleased to call minced veal, hashed mutton, etc. The only means to avoid that taste is to remove carefully from the cold meat you are going to use every part that has seen the fire, as well as gristle and fat. Let every slice be carefully trimmed, and let them all be as near as possible similar in size and shape; then make your hash, and^ even if you are not an expert at combining sauces and spices, at any rate it will not have a warmed-up taste. The following are various formulas for warming up mutton and other meats :

Cut an onion in slices and fry it in butter till it assumes a deep brown color, then put in a table- spoonful of floor, and when it is well amalgamated with the butter add a little less than half a pint of stock broth, or even water previously warmed. Stir a few minutes on the fire, and then proceed to flavor your sauce with walnut or mushroom catsup, tomato sauce, spices, and pepper and salt, in such propor- tions as taste may suggest and practice will teach. A little burnt onion browning may be put in if the sauce is not of a sufficiently deep color. When the flavoring is completed, strain the sauce through a 7

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fine colander into a saucepan and place in it your slices of meat. Keep the saucepan at a moderate heat till it is time to serve, and send up your hash with a garland of bread sippets fried in butter round it. The longer the meat lies in the sauce the better will your dish be.

Proceed as in the above receipt as far as the butter, fiour, and onions are concerned; then add to your sauce a moderate allowance of mustard ; then add the stock and a wineglassful of white or red wine. Season with catsup, spices, pepper, and salt. Strain and put in the meat, serving with pickles or not, according to taste. Beef and pork are best warmed up in this way.

A homely mode of warming cold meat is in this wise : Fry some slices of onion in butter, and when they begin to take color put in your slices of meat, pepper, salt, and a sprinkling of flour. Keep on frying till the onions are thoroughly done and the meat warmed, then add a small quantity of stock, broth, or water, with a small quantity of vinegar, and serve.

Minced parsley may be added to any of the above dishes with advantage.

If the state of the joint you have to work upon will allow it, cut your slices the thickness of your finger, trim them all nicely, as near as possible the same shape, then dip them in egg, and cover them with a mixture of bread crumbs, powdered, sweet herbs, pepper, and salt in due proportion. Let them

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rest a couple of hours^ and egg and bread crumb them again ; then fry them in plenty of lard till they are a nice color. Serve either alone with fried parsley as an ornament, or with any sauce, such as tomato, etc., which taste may suggest. Cold veal or pork treated in this way makes a very toothsome dish.

Of course it is necessary to carry out these warm- ings-up, that the cold joint should not have been too heavily punished when it first appeared on the dinner table. When a joint has not enough left upon it to cut nice slices, then mincing is the best way to utilize it.

Minced Mutton. — This is a very useful prepa- ration of cold mutton,^^ and will be found an ex- cellent mode. Cut slices olf a cold roasted leg of mutton and mince it very fine ; brown some flour in butter, and moisten it with some gravy ; add salt and pepper to taste, and let it simmer about ten or fifteen minntes to take off the raw taste of the flour ; add another lot of butter and some parsley chopped fine, then add the minced meat, and let it simmer slowly, but not to boil, or the meat will be hard.

Baked Minced Mutton. — The remains of any joint of cold roast mutton, one or two onions, one bunch of savory herbs, pepper and salt to taste, two blades of pounded mace or nutmeg, one teacupful of gravy, mashed potatoes. Mince an onion rather fine, and fry it a light-brown color ; add the herbs and mutton, both of which should be also finely

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minced and well mixed ; season with pepper and salt, and a little pounded mace or nutmeg, and moisten with the above proportion of gravy. Put a layer of mashed potatoes at the bottom of a dish, then the mutton, and then another layer of potatoes, and bake for about half an hour. If there should be a large quantity of meat, use two onions instead of one.

Beowned Mikced Mutton. — Cut some lean meat from a roast leg of mutton, chop it fine, season it with pepper and salt, chopped parsley, and a little onion ; mix all together with a quarter of a pound of grated bread, moisten with a tablespoonful of vine- gar and a cup of good gravy; when put into the dish lay an ounce of butter in small bits on the top, grate bread over it, and add a little more butter; brown before the fire.

HOW TO COOK LAMB.

To Boast Lamb. — The hind quarter of lamb usually weighs from seven to ten pounds ; this size will take about two hours to roast it. Have a brisk fire. It must be very frequently basted while roast- ing, and sprinkled with a little salt, and dredged all over with fiour, about half an hour before it is done.

Poke Quaeter of Lamb. — A fore quarter of a lamb is cooked the same way, but takes rather less time, if the same weight, than the hind quarter;

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because it is a thinner joint; one of nine pounds ought to be allowed two hours.

Leg op Lamb. — leg of lamb of four pounds^ weight will take about an hour and a quarter ; if five pounds, nearly one hour and a half ; a shoulder of four pounds will be roasted in an hour, or a very few minutes over.

Eibs op Lamb.— Eibs of lamb are thin, anrl require great care to do gently at first, and brisker as it is finishing ; sprinkle it with a little salt, and dredge it slightly with fiiour, about twenty minutes before it is done. It will take an hour or longer, according to thickness.

Gabotsh and Vegetables por Roast Lamb. — All joints of roast lamb may be garnished with double parsley, and served up with either asparagus and new potatoes, spring spinach and new potatoes, green peas and new potatoes, or with cauliflowers or French beans and potatoes; and never forget to send up mint sauce. The following will be found an excellent receipt for mint sauce : With three heaped tablespoonfuls of finely-chopped young mint, mix two of pounded and sifted sugar, and six of the best vinegar; stir it until the sugar is dissolved.

To Stew a Breast op Lamb.— Cut it into pieces, season them with pepper and salt, and stew them in weak gravy; when tender, thicken the sauce, and add a glass of white wine. Cucumbers, sliced and stewed in gravy, may be served with the

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lamb, the same being poured over it. Or, the lamb may be served in a dish of stewed mushrooms.

To Boil a Neck or Breast of Lamb.— These are small, delicate joints, and therefore suited only for a very small family. The neck must be washed in warm water, and all the blood carefully cleaned away. Either of these joints should be put into cold water, well skimmed, and very gently boiled till done. Half an hour will be about sufficient for either of them, reckoning from the time they come to a boil.

Lamb Chops. — Take a loin of lamb, cut chops from it half an inch thick, retaining the kidney in its place ; dip them into egg and bread crumbs, fry and serve with fried parsley. When chops are made from a breast of lamb, the red bone at the edge of the breast should be cut off, and the breast parboiled in water or broth, with a sliced carrot and two or three onions, before it is divided into cutlets, which is done by cutting between every second or third bone, and preparing them, in every respect, as the last. If house-lamb steaks are to be done white — stew them in milk and water till very tender, with a bit of lemon-peel, a little salt, some pepper and mace. Have ready some veal gravy, and put the steaks into it ; mix some mushroom- powder, a cup of cream, and the least bit of flour; shake the steaks in this liquor, stir it, and let it get

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quite hot^ but not boil. Just before you take it up, put in a few white mushrooms.

Lamb Cutlets and Spinach. — Eight cutlets, egg and bread crumbs, salt and pepper to taste, a little clarified butter. Take the cutlets from a neck of lamb, and shape them by cutting off the thick part of the chine-bone. Trim off most of the fat and all the skin, and scrape the top part of the bones quite clean. Brush the cutlets over with egg, sprinkle them with bread crumbs, and season with pepper and salt. Now dip them into clarified but- ter, sprinkle over a few more bread crumbs, and fry them over a sharp fire, turning them when re- quired. Lay them before the fire to drain, and arrange them on a dish with spinach in the centre, which should be previously well boiled, drained, chopped, and seasoned. Peas, asparagus, or beans may be substituted for the spinach.

Loin, Neck, and Breast op Lamb. — A loin of lamb will be roasted in about an hour and a quarter ; a neck in an hour ; and a breast in three- quarters of an hour. Do not forget to salt and flour these joints about twenty minutes before they are done.

Broiled Lamb Steak. — Broil slowly until quite done, then make a gravy with fresh butter melted by the steak, add a dust of pepper, and a little salt dissolved in a tablespoonful of water; serve with peas, potatoes, and salads.

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Leg of Lamb to Boil. — It must be put into boiling water, then the saucepan (or deep fish-kettle with a drainer is best) drawn back, and the water allowed to simmer gently, reckoning eighteen minutes to each pound ; if it boils fast, the meat will be hard and the skin broken. It should be lifted out of the water with the drainer, and no fork be stuck into it ; if the scum has settled upon it, wash it off with some of the liquor before sending to table. Parsley and butter are served with this, or delicate caper sauce and young carrots.

Leg of Lamb to Roast. — All lamb should be very well cooked, and not put too near the fire at first ; from eighteen to twenty minutes to the pound before a clear but not fierce heat. It may be served with spinach, peas, or asparagus.

Boned Quarter op Lamb. — Bone a quarter of lamb, taking care not to injure the skin. Make a seasoning in the following manner : Cut three onions and fry them in lard ; when these are nearly done, add some parsley, chopped very fine, spice, two spoonfuls of cream, and four eggs. Simmer this mixture over the fire until quite thick, then stuff it into the meat in the spaces left by the bones, roll the meat up and roast it, basting with bread crumbs and butter. Serve with a rich sauce.

Fricassee op Lamb. — Cut the best part of a breast of lamb into square pieces of two inches each; wash, dry, and flour them. Boil together

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four ounces of butter, one of fat bacon, some pars- ley or sweet marjoram for ten minutes, and then add the meat; squeeze in the juice of half a lemon; chop an onion with pepper and salt and throw in. Simmer all .for two hours; add the yelks of two eggs well beaten, shake over the fire two minutes, and serve.

Savoey Lamb Pie. — Cut the meat into pieces, and season it with finely-beaten pepper, salt, mace, cloves, and nutmeg. Make a good puff-paste, and put the meat into it, adding some lambs^ sweet- breads, seasoned in the same manner. Put in some oysters and forcemeat balls, some yelk of egg, and tops of asparagus, boiled green. Put butter all over the pie, and put on the covering paste, and let it bake for an hour and a half in a quick oven. Mix a pint of gravy, the oyster liquor, a gill of wine, and a little nutmeg, with the yelks of two or three eggs well beaten, and stir it in the same direc- tion all the time. When it boils, take the cover off the pie, pour the mixture into it. Cover again and serve.

Stewed Beeast of Lamb, with Peas oe Cu- CUMBEES. — First roast the lamb to a nice brown color. Mix a tablespoonful of flour smoothly in cold water, burn a teaspoonful of sugar in an iron spoon, pour boiling water over it into the flour, mix all smoothly ; strain it ; add as much boiling water as will barely cover the meat, putting it into

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a stewpaii with the bones upwards, add a blade of mace, and a little salt ; let it stew for two hours, till the meat is very tender and the bones will slip ; while the meat is cooking boil some peas, or, in their place, peel some small cucumbers, put them into boiling water, with a little salt and a small piece of butter, and boil for twenty minutes; drain them. When the meat is ready, thicken the gravy if neces- sary; add a little butter and a tablespoonful of catsup, place the meat on a dish, bones downward, strain the gravy over it. Drain the peas, or cut the cucumbers across in three pieces and place round the meat.

Stewed Leg of Lamb. — Dredge the joint with flour, and put it in a stewpan with half a pound of butter, some parsley, pepper, and salt. Stew gently for half an hour. Choose some small, sound heads of lettuce and cut in small pieces ; put them in a stewpan with a little sorrel, and stew with the mut- ton for another hour. Dish the joint, and add to the liquor in the stewpan half a pint of water. Boil up, pour over the meat, and serve.

La]\ib Sweet-beeads.— Blanch them, and put them into cold water. Soak five minutes ; put them into a stewpan with a ladleful of broth, some pep- per and salt, a small bunch of button onions, and a blade of mace ; stir in a piece of butter braided in flour, and stew for half an hour. Have ready the yelks of three eggs well beaten in cream, with

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a little minced parsley and grated nutmeg. Add some boiled asparagus tops. After the cream is in, simmer, but do not boil, as it would curdle. French beans or peas, if very tender, are an im- provement.

Larded Lamb. — Lard the upper side of a fore quarter of lamb with lean bacon, and cover the lower side thickly with grated bread. Cover the whole with paper to prevent burning, and roast it. Take it from the fire when nearly done, and cover the lower side once more with grated bread ; season it with salt, pepper, and finely-chopped parsley; put it before a brisk, clear fire to brown. Pour over all a little cider vinegar, and serve.

Chops, with Cucumbers. — Fry the chops of a light brown, and stew them for half an hour in good gravy ; thicken and fiavor the gravy, and add to it some cucumbers, thickly sliced and previously stewed. Boil them up together, and put the cucum- bers on the dish, and the chops on them.

To Dress Kidneys. — Cut them through the centre ; take out the core ; pull the kernels apart ; put them into the saucepan without any water, and set them on the fire where they may get hot, not boil; in half an hour put the kidneys into cold water, wash them clean, and put them back into the saucepan, with just enough water to cover them ; boil them one hour, then take them up ; clean off* the fat and skin ; put into the frying-pan some

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butter, pepper and salt; dredge in a little flour, half a pint of hot water, and the kidneys ; let them simmer twenty minutes ; stir them often ; do not let them fry, because it hardens them. This is a very nice dish for breakfast.

Feied Sheep Kidneys. — Cut the kidneys open without quite dividing them, remove the skin, and put a small piece of butter in the frying-pan. When the butter is melted, lay in the kidneys the flat side downwards, and fry them for seven or eight minutes, turning them when they are half done. Serve on a piece of dry toast, season with pepper and salt, and put a small piece of butter in each kidney; pour the gravy from the pan over them, and serve very hot.

Mutton Kidneys Broiled. — ^Skin and split without parting asunder ; skewer them through the outer edge and keep them flat ; lay the opened sides first to the fire, which should be clear and brisk ; in ten minutes turn them ; sprinkle with salt and Cayenne, and when done, which will be in three minutes afterwards, take them from the fire, put a piece of butter inside them, squeeze some lemon- juice over them, and serve as hot as possible.

Kidney Omelette. — Eemove all the fat and skin from six kidneys. Cut into very fine pieces, season with salt and pepper, and fry quickly in butter. Beat together two dozen eggs with a wine- gla^ of wine. Heat quarter of a pound of butter

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in a frying-pan, pour in the eggs, and just before they are set, put the kidneys in the middle. Turn over the ends of the omelette, and brown on top, before a clear fire, and serve, with thin slices of lemon on the edge of the dish.

Kidneys a la Brochette —Eemove the thin skin from the outside of the kidneys. Split in two, without entirely separating the halves. Lay flat with a little skewer passed through each to keep the halves apart. Powder with salt and pepper, put them on a gridiron, with the inner side of the kidneys next the fire. When one side is brown, turn them, and when the outside is done, the edges will turn up to form a cup ; fill this with a little cold butter beaten with minced herbs ; squeeze in a little lemon-juice, and serve,

Eoast Veal,— Season a breast of veal with pepper and salt ; skewer the sweet-bread firmly in its place, flour the meat and roast it slowly before a moderate fire for about four hours^ — it should be of a fine brown, but not dry ; baste it with butter. When done, put the gravy in a stewpan, add a piece of butter rolled in browned flour, <