Cooper-Hewitt Museum Library DOROTHY MESERVE BILLINGS 1979 Smithsonian Institution Libraries Smithsonian Libraries Adopted by Harold and Barbara Walsh November 16, 2016 i THE -nrx -7fS SS5 I%10 NmM GODEY’S Lady’s Book Receipts AND Household Hints. CAREFULLY SELECTED AND ARRANGED. PHILADELPHIA: EVANS, STODDART & CO. 1870. Entered according to Act of Congress, in the year 1870, by EVANS, STODDART & CO., In the Office of the Librarian of Congress at Washington, D. C. S. A. GEORGE & CO., STEREOTYPERS AND PRINTERS, PHILADELPHIA. PREFACE. In offering to the public the present vol- ume of valuable receipts, we feel that we are supplying a long-felt and urgent want. The thousands of subscribers who for years have found the Lady’s Book the most valuable work in their library, can now make use of hundreds of the best receipts , without being obliged to refer to several numbers of the magazine to find the special directions of which they are in need. It has been in answer to frequent urgent inquiries of how and where to find certain directions, that the present volume has been carefully selected and compiled from the best of the receipts published in the Lady’s Book, most of them being contributed for that peri- odical only, and not to be found in any other 1 2 PEEPACE. publication. These are from the practical experience of old housekeepers, and have all been carefully tested before publication. In the present compact shape, the subscri- bers to the Lady’s Book will recognize many old favorites, and doubtless find new ones that have been forgotten or overlooked, when spread over several years of the magazine. No trouble has been spared in the endeavor to render it complete and useful by the addi- tion of a complete alphabetical index, that will aid the housekeeper in search of any subject treated, to turn at once to the page wanted, without hunting through the whole book. TABLE OF CONTENTS CHAPTER. page I. — Soups 17 II. — Fish 35 III. — Sauces and Pickles 47 IV. — Meats 79 y. — Vegetables and Salads . . . . 145 VI. — Puddings and Paste y .... 188 VII. — Creams and Desserts .... 245 VIII. — Preserves and Jellies .... 273 IX. — Butter, Cheese, and Eggs . . . 296 X. — Bread, Biscuit, Cakes, and Yeast . . 309 XI.— Beverages ....... 379 XII. — Invalid Cookery 406 XIII. — Miscellaneous 414 XIV. — ^Weights and Measures .... 429 Alphabetical Index 431 SOUPS. How to make soups . PAGE 17 Nursery soup . . . Economical veal soup PAGE 23 23 Stocks for soups . . , , 18 Imitation of mock turtle Good stock for ordinary pur- 19 soup 23 poses . . . . . Veal gravy soup . . . . 24 White stock . . . 19 White soup . . . . . -. 24 Economical stock . , 20 Calf’s-head soup . , . . 25 Rich, strong stock , , 20 Vermicelli soup . . . . 25 Plain beef soup . . . . 21 Salt meat soup . . . . 26 Beef soup .... 21 Chicken broth . . . 26 Mutton soup . . . 22 Brown chicken soup . . 26 Mutton broth . . . 22 Partridge soup . . . . 27 3 4 TABLE OP CONTENTS. PAGE SAUCES AND PICKLES. Rabbit soup . . . 27 PAGE Carrot soup . . . 27 Sauces 47 Vegetable soup . . 28 Fish sauces . . . 48 Clear gravy soup 28 Mushroom catsup 49 Gumbo 29 Tomato catsup . . 50 Okra or gumbo soup 30 Tomato marmalade . 50 Southern gumbo soup 30 Belsize tomato sauce 50 Soup for the million » 30 Tomato vinegar . . 51 Lobster soup . . . 31 Lemon pickle . . . 51 New England chowder 31 Chutney .... 52 Oyster soup . . . 32 Browning .... 53 Clam soup .... 32 Mushroom powder . 53 Bisque of lobster . . 32 Fish sauce .... 54 Coloring for soups 33 Tomato sauce . . . 54 Roast veal and chicken soup 34 Mushroom sauce . . 54 Bread sauce . . . 55 FISH. Sauce for fowls . . 55 Sauce for boiled poultry 55 To bake a large fish whole 35 Savory sauce for a roast Rock fish .... 35 goose 56 Stuffed fish , . . 35 Giblet sauce . . . 56 To fry trout . . . 36 Sauce for wild duck 56 Sturgeon .... 36 Venison ravigote sauce 56 Fried codfish and halibut 36 Green mint sauce 57 Fried eels .... 37 Sauce Robert . . . 57 Potted salmon . . 37 Celery sauce . . . 57 To pickle fish . . . 37 Horseradish sauce 58 To pickle herring 38 Potato sauce . . . 58 Salt fish .... Rice sauce .... 58 Salt fish with parsnips 39 Wine sauce . . . 59 Picked up codfish 39 Madeira sauce . . 59 Codfish balls . . . 40 Pudding sauce, No. 1 69 Cod sounds . . . 40 Pudding sauce, No. 2 59 Fish cakes . . . 40 Lemon sauce . . . 59 Kedjeree .... 41 Orange sauce . . . 69 Lobster patties . . 41 Sweet egg sauce . . 60 Lobster rissoles . . 42 Sweet pudding sauce 60 To fry oysters . . 42 Pickles 60 Pickled oysters . . 42 To pickle string beans 61 Oyster stew . . . 43 To pickle red cabbage 62 German receipt for oyster Pickled nasturtiums 63 powder .... 43 To pickle cabbage a good Crumbed oysters . . 43 color 63 Scalloped oysters 44 To pickle mushrooms 63 Oyster forcemeat . . 44 Small onion pickle . 63 Oyster patties and batter 45 Spiced onions . . . 64 Oyster omelette . . 45 Pickled onions . . 64 Oj^ster sauce . . . 45 To pickle beet-root . 64 Clam fritters . . . 45 Carolina chow-chow 65 Boiled crabs . . . 45 Pickle chow-chow 66 Terrapins .... 46 Chow-chow .... 66 TABLE OF CONTENTS, 5 Old Virginia chow-chow . India pickle Yellow pickle Pickled red cabbage . . Artichokes, pickled . . . Gherkins To make lemon pickle . . Tomato catsup, No. 1 . . Tomato catsup, No. 2 . . Tomato soy Ripe cucumber pickle . . Green cucumber pickle . . Pickled eggs. No. 1 . • . Pickled eggs. No. 2 . . . Piccalillie Pickled walnuts, No. 1 . . Pickled walnuts, No. 2 . . Sweet peach pickle . . . Sweet pickle Sweet tomato pickle . . Green tomato pickle . . Tomatoes Spiced tomatoes .... Mixed pickle Cold catsup . . . . . Pepper catsup .... MEATS. Stewed beef Rump of beef , , . . . Spanish steak Beef stewed with onions . Brisket of beef stuffed . . A la mode beef .... Beef cutlets Fillet of beef with mush- rooms Fillet of beef English beef pie .... Beefsteak pie ..... Beefsteak pudding . . . Beefsteak smothered with onions Minced beef Beef balls Mock venison of corned beef Hash balls of corned beef . Yorkshire pudding with roast beef Corned beef, boiled . . . Corned beef hash . . . PAOB Pickling beef 86 Potted ox tongue ... 86 Tongue toast ..... 87 Tongue ....... 87 Spiced tripe 87 Potted beef ..... 88 Bubble and squeak ... 88 Beef cakes. No. 1 ... 89 Beef cakes. No. 2 • • . 89 Beef croquettes .... 89 To roll loin of mutton . . 90 Panned mutton .... 90 Mutton cutlets .... 90 Mutton cutlets k la bene . 92 Shoulder of mutton ... 92 Mutton prepared like venison 93 Saddle of mutton k la Portu- guese 93 Cold mutton 94 Minced mutton .... 97 Baked minced mutton . . 79 Browned minced mutton . 98 To roast lamb 98 Fore quarter of lamb ... 98 Leg of lamb . . . . • 99 Ribs of lamb 99 Garnish and vegetables for roast lamb 99 To stew a breast of lamb . 99 To boil a neck or breast of lamb ....... 100 Lamb chops 100 Lamb cutlets and spinach . 101 Loin, neck, and breast of lamb 101 Broiled lamb steak . . . 101 Leg of lamb to boil . . . 102 Leg of lamb to roast . . 102 Boned quarter of lamb . . 102 Fricassee of lamb . . . 102 Savory lamb pie .... 103 Stewed breast of lamb with peas or cucumbers . . 103 Stewed leg of lamb . . . 104 Lamb sweetbreads . . . 104 Larded lamb 105 Chops with cucumbers . . 105 To dress kidneys . . . 105 Fried sheep kidneys . . 106 Mutton kidneys, broiled . 106 Kidney omelette .... 106 PAGE 66 67 67 68 68 69 69 70 70 70 70 71 71 72 72 73 74 74 75 75 75 76 76 77 78 78 79 79 79 80 80 80 81 81 82 82 83 83 83 83 84 84 84 85 85 85 6 TABLE OP CONTESTTS Kidney h la brochette . . Boast veal Spiced veal Curry of veal Fricassee of veal .... Veal cutlets with sweet herbs Calf s head ...... Veal chops, breaded . . Veal cutlets with ragout . Fillet of veal, boiled . . Breast of veal with oyster sauce • Shoulder of veal .... Hashed calf s head . . . Collared calf s head . . . Tea pie of veal .... Veal pot-pie ..... Veal, minced . . . . . Minced veal with poached eggs Minced veal Fried patties Veal forcemeat .... Veal croquettes .... Veal sausages ..... Veal rolls Superior veal rolls . . . Veal sweetbreads .... Sweetbreads Fried sweetbread .... Veal olives Boast leg of pork . • . Fresh pork pot-pie . . . Pork chops Pork steak, broiled . . . Pork cutlets Pork and apple fritters English raised pork pie Fresh pork pie .... Scrambled pork .... To cure hanas Baked ham Ham pie Ham omelette Ham Toast Omelette of ham, tongue, or sausage Sausages, No. 1 . . . . Sausages, No. 2 . . . . Sausage dumplings . . . i Sausage cakes ..... PAGE Scrapple 125 To prepare fowls for cooking 126 Fowl stewed with onions . 127 Steamed fowls 127 Fowl cutlets ..... 127 Choice fowl pudding . . 128 To bone fowls for fricassee , 128 To roast a fowl .... 128 To bake a fowl .... 129 To roast a turkey . . . 129 To bake a turkey .... 129 Stuffing for a turkey . . 130 Baked turkey ..... 130 Giblet pie 130 To fricassee small chickens 131 To broil chicken without burning 131 Chicken pot-pie .... 132 White fricassee .... 132 To fry cold chicken . . . 132 Chicken baked in rice . . 133 Chicken puffs 133 To boil a goose .... 133 To cook partridges . . . 134 To roast partridges . . . 134 To broil partridges . . . 134 Partridge pie ..... 135 To boil partridges . . . 135 To stew partridges , . . 135 To fry partridges .... 136 Quails cured in oil . . . 136 Woodcock 136 Snipes 137 Wild ducks 137 To keep game 137 A^enison steak 138 Babbit pie 138 Boman pie 138 Potted fish and meats . . 139 Potted salmon 141 Potted lobster . . . . . 141 Potted rabbit ..... 142 Potted pigeons .... 142 Potted birds 142 To pot veal 142 Potted calves" feet . . . 143 Potted veal and bacon . . 143 VEGETABLES AND SALADS. Vegetables 145 To boil potatoes .... 145 PAGE 107 107 107 108 108 108 109 109 110 110 no 111 111 112 112 112 113 113 114 114 115 115 116 116 116 116 117 117 117 118 119 119 120 120 120 121 121 121 122 122 122 123 123 123 124 124 125 125 TABLE OF CONTENTS. 7 PAGE PAGE To broil potatoes .... 146 String beans for winter use 166 Potato chips 146 To cook beans in a French Steamed potatoes . . . 146 style 167 Baked potatoes .... 147 String beans . . . 167 Pommes de terre, a la Da- Boiled beans . . . 168 noise . 147 Parsnips . . . . 168 Potato surprise .... 148 Broiled parsnips . . . . 168 Mironton of potatoes . . 148 Parsnip cutlet . . . 168 Potatoes, mashed and fried 149 Parsnip fritters, No. 1 , 168 Potato rolls 151 Parsnip fritters, No. 2 . , 169 Stewed potatoes .... 152 Fricassee of parsnips . . 169 Browned potatoes . . . 152 Fried plantains or bananas 169 Potato fritters 152 Vegetables and sauces , 169 New potatoes 153 Carrots 170 Potato salad ..... 153 Carrot fritters . . . 170 Potato patties 153 Parsley and butter . , 171 Potato sconces .... 153 Fried artichokes , . . . 171 Potatoes in meat, puddings, Summer squashes . . 171 and pies 154 Stewed spinach . . . . 172 B,oasted potatoes .... 154 Spinach to boil . . . . 172 Jury pie 154 Boiled onions . . , 173 Potato croquettes . . . 155 Buttered onions . . . . 173 Potato pone 155 Boasted onions . . . . 173 Stuffed potatoes . . . . 155 Flaked onions . . . 173 Pommes de terre en pyramids 156 Onions and caper sauce . 174 Potatoes fried with batter . 156 Stewed celery . . . 174 Potatoes a la cr^me . . . 156 Fried celery . . . 174 French mashed potatoes 157 Essence of celery . • . 174 Savory potato cakes . . 157 Vegetable oyster cakes , , 175 Cauliflower 157 Egg plant .... 175 Boiled cauliflower . . . 159 Boiled beets . . . 175 Cauliflower omelette . . . 160 Asparagus .... 175 Cauliflower in milk . . . 160 Stewed asparagus , 176 Fried cauliflower .... 160 Asparagus soup . . . , 177 Corn balls 161 Asparagus toast . . . , 177 Corn oysters ..... 161 Asparaygus omelette . , . 177 Corn in cans 161 Turnips a la poulette . . 177 Corn porridge ..... 161 Turnips 177 Succotash 162 Turnip tops . . . 178 Grreen corn dumplings . . 163 To boil peas . . . 178 Corn fritters 163 Green peas .... 178 Broiled tomatoes .... 163 Lettuce peas . . . 178 Tomato fritters . . . . 164 To stew peas . . . 179 Browned tomatoes . . . 164 Peas au sucre . . . . 179 Tomato soup . . . . . 164 Cabbage boiled with meat . 179 Tomato toast 164 To stew cabbage . . . . 180 To bake tomatoes . . . 165 Cold cabbage . . . 180 Breakfast tomatoes . . . 165 Dressing for cold slaw . . 180 Chinese rice 165 Bed cabbage, stewed • • 180 Carolina rice 166 Stewed cabbage . . • • 181 Bice and milk ..... 166 Cabbage jelly . . . 181 8 TABLE Hot slaw Broiled mushrooms . . . Stewed mushrooms . . . To dry mushrooms . . . Preserving mushrooms for winter use To stew okra To fry okra ..... To dry okra for winter use Cucumber/ salad .... Salad dressing without oil . Salad dressing .... Italian salad dressing . . Salad Potato salad . . . . Chicken salad Lobster salad English salad sauce . . . Sweet salad sauce . . . Swiss salad dressing . . Piquante sauce for salads . Mayounaise for salad . . PUDDINGS AND PASTRY. Puddings St. Claire pudding . . . Ice pudding Half pay pudding ... Minute pudding .... Queen pudding .... Gray pudding .... Cottage pudding .... Soyer's new Christmas pud- ding Christmas pudding . . . Plum pudding Suet plum pudding . . . Barbara’s plum pudding . Rich plum pudding without flour Cottage plum pudding . . Unrivalled plum pudding . Christmas plum pudding . Apple pudding .... Boiled apple pudding . . Baked apple pudding . . Rich sweet apple pudding . Pippin pudding .... Apple roll Cocoanut pudding . . . Fine cocoanut pudding CONTENTS. PAGE Cocoanut custard pudding . 202 Cocoanut cup puddings 202 Lemon pudding . . . . 202 Excellent lemon pudding . 203 Iced lemon pudding . . . 203 Baked lemon pudding . . 203 Sponge pudding . . . . 204 Baked sponge pudding . . 204 Clara’s sponge pudding 204 Boiled fig pudding . . . 204 Fig pudding 204 Raisin pudding . . . . 205 Boiled raisin pudding . . 205 Plain raisin pudding . . 205 Fruit raised pudding . . 206 Tomato pudding . . . . 206 Caromel pudding . . . 206 Cassandra pudding . . . 207 Brighton pudding . . . 207 Golden pudding . . . . 207 Luncheon pudding . . . 208 Moulded pudding . . . 208 Stale loaf pudding . . . 208 Farmer’s pudding . . . 209 Steamboat pudding . . . 209 Treacle pudding . . . . 209 Rich pudding 210 Economical pudding . , 210 Family pudding . . . . 210 Flour pudding . . . . 211 Simple pudding . . . . 211 Suet pudding 211 Boiled suet pudding . • . 211 Tapioca pudding . . . 211 Arrowroot pudding . . . 212 Potato suet pudding . . 212 Boiled Indian pudding . . 212 Corn meal pudding . . . 212 Indian meal pudding . . 213 Pound pudding . . . . 213 Potato pudding . . . . 213 Biscuit pudding . . . . 213 Macaroni pudding . . . 214 Cake pudding 214 Sago pudding 214 Crumb pudding .... 214 Custard pudding .... 214 Cup pudding 215 Cold cup pudding . . . 215 Green corn pudding . . . 215 Carrot pudding . . . . 215 OF PAGE 181 181 182 182 182 183 183 184 184 184 184 185 185 185 186 186 186 187 187 187 187 188 191 192 192 193 193 193 193 194 195 196 196 196 196 197 198 198 199 199 200 200 200 201 201 201 TABLE OF CONTENTS. Chocolate pudding . . . Rice pudding Boiled batter pudding . . Quaking pudding . . . Pennsylvania pudding . , Variety puddings . . . Blackberry pudding . . Ripe gooseberry pudding . Green currant pudding Orange pudding .... Almond pudding .... Citron pudding .... Supper pudding .... Peripatetic pudding . . . Fortunatus pudding . . . Transparent pudding . . Cream pudding .... Chocolate cream custard pudding Cream tapioca pudding Railway pudding, . . . Simple bread pudding . . Bread pudding .... Brown bread pudding . . Steamed bread and butter pudding ...... Souffle pudding .... Prince Albert pudding . . German pudding .... Syllabub pudding . . . Bird’s nest pudding . . . Omnibus pudding . . . Biddle pudding .... Birthday pudding . . . Orris pudding Grandmamma’s pudding . West Point pudding . . Union pudding .... Snow pudding .... Persian pudding .... Various kinds of pastry Plaky and short crusts . . Raised crust Puff-paste ...... Superior puff-paste . . . Sweet paste Crust for savory pies . . Icing pastry French crust for raised pies' Pie crust for meat pies . . Farmer’s pie Cra,cker pies ..... Soda cracker pie . . . . Orange pie Aunt Harriet’s pie . . . Washing^n pie .... German puffs Lemon puffs ..... Spiced puffs Preserve puffs .... Apple puffs Egg puffs Lemon custard tart . . . Lemon pie, No. 1 ... Lemon pie, No. 2 ... Custard cream pie . . . Cream pie Cornstarch pie .... Frosted pie Macaroni pie Superior peach pies . . . Cranberry tart .... Sand tart Black Currant tart . . . Cherry currant tart . . . Raspberry cream tart . . Orange tart Lemon tart Almond tart Rhubarb tart Greengage tart .... Rich mince pie .... Mock mince pie .... Mincemeat Pastry sandwiches . . . Florentines Rhubarb pie ..... CREAMS AND DESSERTS. Chocolate creams .... Scotch creams Caledonian ^ream . . . Orange cream Snow cream French cream Velvet cream Apple cream Italian cream Madeira cream .... Spanish cream . . . s. Lemon cream Lemon rice PAGE 216 216 216 217 217 217 218 218 218 218 219 219 219 220 220 220 220 221 221 222 222 222 222 223 223 223 223 224 224 224 225 225 225 226 226 226 226 227 227 229 230 231 231 232 232 232 233 233 234 9 PAGE 234 234 234 235 235 235 236 236 236 237 237 237 237 238 238 238 238 238 239 239 239 239 240 240 240 241 241 241 241 242 242 242 242 243 244 244 245 245 245 245 246 246 246 247 247 247 248 248 248 10 TABLE OP CONTENTS, Lemon flummery .... Meringues ...... Trifle Sweet souffle . . . , . . Sweet dish of macaroni*; . Lemon honeycomb . . . Bibavoe .... . . Delicate dessert . . . . German flottkreugel . . . Custard and whey . . . Fine floating island . . . Floating island . . . . French island Floats ....... Tapioca blanc mange . . Blanc mange Chocolate blanc mange . . Cornstarch blanc mange Peach rolls Spiced sugar for fritters Snowballs Suet dumplings with cur* rants Oxford dumplings . . . Suet dumplings .... Apple custard Solid custard Orange custard .... French custard .... Milk pancakes .... Cream pancakes .... Orange nuts Compote aux confitures Washington or cream pie . Custard fritters .... Bun fritters ..... Apple fritters Cherry fritters .... Elegant fritters .... Snitz and knep .... Stewed pears Chocolate caromel . , . Caromels ...... Burnt sugar Friar’s omelette .... Angel’s food Chocolate butter .... Chocolate charlotte russe . Charlotte russe .... Charlotte de russe . . . Jam or marmalade charlotte PAGE Buttered orange juice . . 266 Cakes for dessert .... 266 Apple charlotte .... 266 Pommes au riz .... 267 Delicious dish of apples . 267 Gateau de pommes . . . 268 Apple Souffle 268 Apple in jelly . . . . . 268 Apple float 268 Apple snow 269 Floating island of apples . 269 Apple island 269 Apple cheesecakes . . . 270 Apple pique 270 Sponge cake for dessert . 270 A dish of snow .... 271 Sugar drops . . . . 271 Ice creams 271 Water ices 272 PBESERVES AND JELLIES. Directions for preserving fruits, etc 273 To preserve peaches . . . 273 Peach marmalade . . . 274 Peach jam 275 Raspberry fool .... 275 Raspberry jam . . . . 275 Celery preserve .... 275 Preserved lettuce stalks . 276 To preserve watermelon rind 27d Preserved citron .... 276 Apricot jam ..... 277 To preserve hedge pears . 278 Pears for the tea table . . 278 Preserving pears .... 278 Blackberry jelly .... 278 Blackberries 279 Greengage jam . . . . 279 Greengages 280 Bottled green gooseberries 280 Gooseberry jelly .... 281 Gooseberry and raspberry jelly .281 Red gooseberry jam . . . 281 Green gooseberry jam . . 282 White gooseberry jam . . 282 Dried strawberries . . . 282 To preserve strawberries . 283 Strawberry jelly .... 283 Strawberry jam .... 283 PAGE 249 249 250 251 251 251 252 252 252 253 253 253 254 254 254 254 255 255 255 256 256 256 257 257 257 257 258 258. 258 258 259 259 259 260 260 260 261 261 261 262 262 262 263 263 263 263 264 264 265 265 TABLE OF CONTENTS. 11 PAGE PAGE Preserved pineapple . . 284 Eggs, plain boiled , 302 Pineapples without cooking 285 Bait de poule . . 303 Pineapple jelly .... 285 Egg balls . . . 303 Pineapple marmalade . . 285 Eggs a Tardennaise , , 303 Pineapple preserve . . . 285 Eggs a Taurore . . 303 Khubarb jam . ... 286 Broiled eggs . . 304 Khubarb preserve . . . 286 Minced eggs . . 304 Plums, to preserve . . . 286 Brown eggs . . 304 To preserve purple plums . 287 Egg dumplings . . 305 Preserved cherries . . . 287 Rumbled eggs . , 305 Cherry marmalade or jam . 288 Omelette souffle . . , 305 Spiced cherries .... 288 Omelette a la creppe . . 306 Bottling cherries .... 288 Egg cheesecakes . . 306 Cherry or strawberry fool . 288 Egg sandwiches . . . 306 Cherry jam 289 Preserving eggs . . . 306 Currant jelly 289 Egg omelette . . 307 Black currant jelly . . . 290 Buttered eggs . . 307 Black currant jam . . . 290 Bacon omelette , , 307 To can fruit and vegetables 291 Kidney omelette . , . 307 To can peaches .... 291 Omelette aux crouton , , 308 To can raspberries, etc. 291 To can vegetables . . . 291 BREAD, BISCUIT, CAKES, AND Brandy peaches .... 291 YKAST. Quinces preserved whole . 292 Bread .... 309 Quince marmalade . . . 292 Rolls and bread . . . 309 Quince jelly 292 Bread receipt . . 310 Quinces for the tea table . 293 Wheaten bread • . 310 Quince and apple jelly . . 293 Potato bread . . 311 Apple jelly 293 Homemade bread . . 311 Apple jam 294 Premium rye bread . . 312 Apple marmalade . . . 295 Rice bread . . . 312 Apple preserve .... 295 Corn bread . . . 312 Crab apple jam .... 295 Brown bread . . 312 Light corn bread . . , 312 BUTTER, CHEESE, AND EGGS. Cornmeal bread . , , 313 Butter that threatens to turn Graham loaf . . 313 rancid 296 Graham biscuit . . . 313 Butter making .... 296 Graham crackers . . , 313 To preserve butter . . . 297 Graham bread . . 314 Curled butter 297 Italian bread . . 314 Rancid butter, to restore . 297 Potato bread . . 315 Manufacture of pineapple Indian corn bread , , 315 and potato cheeses . . 298 Scotch short bread . , 315 Cheese biscuit . . . , . 299 Common corn bread 315 Cheesecakes 299 Genuine Scottish short bread 316 Buttermilk cheese . . . 300 Short bread . . 316 Potted cheese . . . . . 300 Dinner rolls . . 317 Cheese straws 300 French rolls . . 317 Cream cheese 301 Pennsylvania rusk , , 317 How to cook and serve eggs 302 Tea rusks , . . 318 Eggs, sour le plat . . , 302 Rusk .... 318 12 TABLE OP CONTENTS, Light biscuits . . . PAGK 318 PACE Plum, pound, and bride cakes 332 Biscuits .... * 318 Rock cakes .... . 334 Butter biscuits , . . . 319 Love cakes .... Biscuit cakes . . , 319 Buns ...... Cream biscuits . . . . 319 Bath buns .... . 335 German cream biscuits . 319 Rich buns .... Sour cream biscuits . . . 320 Ground rice buns . 335 Milk biscuit . . . 320 Spanish buns . . . . 335 Potato biscuits . . . . 320 Excellent Spanish bun . 336 Soda biscuit . . . 320 Children’s cake , , . 336 Judge’s biscuit . . . . 321 Molasses drop cakes . 336 Abernethy biscuits . . . 321 Molasses cup cakes . . 336 Sally Lunn . . . 321 Cornstarch cake . . , 337 Superior Sally Lunn . . 322 Soda cake .... . 337 Light Sally Lunn . . 322 Rye drop cakes . . . 337 Johnny cakes . . . 322 Good plain cake . . . 337 Indian cakes . . . 322 Children’s loaf cake . . 338 Short cake . . « . Cheap cake , . . Corn cake .... 323 French cake . . . . -338 Green corn cakes . . 323 Thick gingerbread . . 338 Soda cake .... 323 Soft gingerbread . 338 Rice cakes .... 323 Ginger biscuits , . . 339 Muffins ..... 323 Gingersnaps . . . . 339 German waffles . . . . 324 Gingerbread . . . . 339 Waffles ..... 324 Almond peppernuts , . 339 Raised waffles . . . . 324 Peppernuts . . . . 340 Crumpets .... 324 Lemon drop cakes . 340 Cornmeal muffins . . 325 Superior lemon cake . 340 Buttermilk breakfast cakes 325 Lemon cake . . . , 341 Breakfast short cakes . . 325 Lemon cheesecakes . . 341 Hominy breakfast cakes . 326 Orange cheesecakes . . 341 Breakfast waffles . . . . 326 Sweet macaroon . , . 341 Breakfast Johnny cake . . 326 Bitter macaroon . . . 342 Fried breakfast cakes . . 326 Pop overs .... . 342 Breakfast puffs . . Ginger sponge cake . . 342 Coffee cake .... 327 Ginger loaf cake . . , 342 Virginia breakfast cake 327 Ginger jumbles . . . 343 Breakfast soda cake , 327 Connecticut loaf cake . 343 French breakfast rolls • • 328 New England loaf cake , 343 Breakfast Sally Lunn , 328 Clay cake .... , 343 Light breakfast rolls , . 328 Old fashioned doughnuts , , 343 French tea cakes , . . « 328 Doughnuts .... , 344 Tea cakes .... 328 Crullers ..... , 344 German tea cakes • . 329 Bordeaux cakes , , , 344 Pennsylvania tea cake . . 329 Christmas cake . . 345 Plain tea cakes . . Yule tide cake . . 345 Superior tea cakes . . . 329 Jelly cake .... 346 Simple tea cakes . . . . 330 Rose water cake . . , 846 Lemon tea cakes . . . . 330 Almond jelly cake . . 346 Hints for making and bak- Army cake .... 346 ing sweet cakes . . 330 Navy cake .... 346 TABLE OP CONTENTS. 13 PAGE PAGE Fruit cake . . . Lady fingers . . . 360 Fruit cake without eggs . 347 German ladies' fingers • . 360 Good fruit cake . . 347 Ladies' fingers . . , . 360 Soda fruit cake . 347 Cake sandwiches . . , , 361 Molasses fruit cake . 347 Cocoanut cake . . , 861 Pound cake . , Grated cocoanut cake , . 361 Rice pound cake . . 348 White cocoanut cake , , 362 Almond cake . . . 348 Cocoanut loaf cake . , , 362 Almond cup cake . 349 Chocolate cake . . , , 362 Sweet almond cake . 349 Chocolate drop cake . . . 363 Seed cake . . . . 349 Chocolate paste cake , , 363 Caraway cake . 350 Currant loaf cake , . 363 Frosted loaf cake . 350 Bachelor buttons . . . • 363 Maximilian cake . . 350 Princess cakes . . , , 363 Bitter almond cake . 351 Queen's biscuit . . , , 364 Stevens cake . . Lincoln cake . . . 364 Good boy^s cake . . 351 Boston cake . . . 364 Cup cake . . . . 851 Gold cake .... 364 Traveller's cake . . 351 Silver cake .... 365 Apple cake . . . . 352 White cake .... . • 365 Pippin cake . . . 352 Mrs. W's. snow cake , , 365 Gateau de pommes . 352 Snow cake .... 365 School cake . . . 352 Scotch cake . . . 366 Sugar cake . . . Butch cake . . . 366 Black cake . . . Derby short cake , , 366 Arrowroot biscuits . 353 Queen cake . . . 366 Marble cake . . . 353 Medley cake . . . 367 Railroad cake . . Congress cake . . . 367 Josephine cake . . 354 German sponge cake . . 367 J enny Lind cake . . 354 Sponge cake . . . , . 368 J efferson cake . . Sponge biscuits . . , , 368 Apple cheesecakes . 354 Berwick sponge cake . , 369 Cocoanut cheesecakes . . 355 Superior sponge cake , . 369 Citron cheesecakes . 355 Fine sponge cake . , 369 Blackberry ^ake . . 355 French cream cake . , . 369 Prune cake . . . 356 Cream cake . . . 370 French jumbles . 356 Cream biscuits . . , , 370 Soft jumbles , , Washington cake . . 371 Jumbles .... Washington pie cake . . 371 Cocoanut jumbles . 356 German cornucopia cakes . 371 Cookies .... Swiss cake .... 372 Butter cookies . 357 Molly’s cake . . . 372 Good cookies . . . 357 Luncheon cake . . , , 372 Ground rice cake . 357 Lady cake .... 372 Bride cake . . , Bun loaf .... 373 Wine biscuits . . . 358 French cake . . . 373 Rock biscuits . . . 358 Honey cake . . . 373 Rough biscuits . 359 Almond custard cake , , 373 Almond biscuits . . 359 Jumbles 374 Biscuits .... Wine cakes . . • 374 Sweet biscuits . . . 360 Trafalgar cake . . . . 374 14 TABLE Raisin cake Mountain cake .... White mountain cake . . Ash cake Fine icing for cakes . . . Hot icing Yeast Potato yeast Homemade yeast .... Sweetened yeast .... Hops and potato yeast . . BEVERAGES. To make good tea . . . To make good chocolate Chocolate ^ la francaise Cocoa shells Broma Coffee and its preparation , Cafe au lait Cafe noire Good coffee Concentrated coffee . . . Fruit syrups ... Currant syrup .... Morello cherry syrup . . Mulberry syrup . . . ,. Gooseberry syrup . . . Lemon syrup Raspberry vinegar syrup . Sour orange syrup . . . Syrup of cloves .... Orange syrup Lemonades Excellent portable lemonade Mock lemonade .... Superior lemonade a la soyer Lemonade h la soyer . . Orangeade a la soyer . . Barley lemonade .... Barley orangeade . . . Another mock lemonade Plain orangeade .... Orange lemonade . . . Orangeade . Fruit vinegars .... Strawberry vinegar . . . Raspberry vinegar . . . Gooseberry vinegar . . . Norwegian raspberry vinegar Mixed fruit vinegars . . CONTENTS. PAGB Strawberry drink. . , . 397 Lemon water 398 Tomato wine . . . . , 398 Muscadine wine .... 398 Rhubarb wine 399 Ginger wine 399 Lemon wine 399 Imperial 400 Imperial pop 400 Capilliare . . . . . . 400 Pleasant drink in summer 400 Decoction of sarsaparilla . 401 Soda water 401 Cooling summer beverage . 401 Ginger beer 402 Common ginger beer . . 402 Ginger pop 402 Ginger beer powders « . 403 Lemonade powders . . . 403 Eau sucre 403 Agrag 403 Sherbet 403 Watermelon sherbet . . . 404 Nectar 404 Lemon water ice ... . 404 Blackberry cordial . . . 404 Tamarinds 405 INVALID COOKERY. Beef tea 406 Liebig’s soup ..... 406 Beef tea and baked flour . 407 Flaxseed, jelly for a cough 407 Sago ........ 407 Tapioca 407 Oatmeal porridge .... 408 Milk and oatmeal gruel . 408 Panada of fine flour . . . 409 Chicken panada .... 409 Baked crumbs of bread . 409 Bread panada 410 Bouillie of baked flour . . 410 Bouillie of boiled flour . . 410 Glycerine and yelk of egg . 411 Wine whey 411 Arrowroot pap with milk . 411 Port wine jelly .... 412 Orange jelly 412 Porter jelly 412 - Sago jelly 412 Gelatine 413 Jelly from gelatine . . • 413 OF PAGE 374 375 375 375 375 376 376 376 377 377 378 379 379 379 380 380 380 382 382 384 385 '386 388 388 388 388 388 389 389 389 390 390 391 391 392 392 392 393 393 393 393 394 394 394 394 396 396 ■ 397 397 TABLE MISCELLANEOUS. A bill of fare Coloring for gravies and ragouts Eich gravy Meat or fish omelettes, gen- erally Milk toast Breakfast dish .... Small egg balls to serve with calf’s head Good meat cake .... Superior meat pies . . . To use the meat and gristle of a soup bone .... Eissoles Eissoles of cold meat . . Eissables Lard Forcemeat Forcemeat for veal, turkeys, fowls, &Q Eamakins CONTENTS. 15 PAGE Eggs to keep . . . . . 421 Farmhouse syllabub . . 421 Lait sucr§ 421 Nutmegs 421 Essence of nutmegs . . . 422 Essence of rose .... 422 How to mix mustard . . 422 To make good vinegar . . 422 Excellent vinegar . . . 422 Mint vinegar ..... 423 Cayenne vinegar .... 423 Quajada 423 Toad in the hole .... 424 A relish 424 Pickelets ...... 424 Cheesikins 425 German Entremet . • . 425 Gravy for fowls . . . . 425 To keep sausage fresh . . 426 Rolled patties 426 Culinary couplets . . . 426 Weights and measures . . 429 Alphabetical index ... 431 OF PAGE 414 414 415 415 415 416 417 417 417 417 418 418 419 419 419 420 421 2 ;-*-sSv ? 3-' : l.V;;3;:;rV’ ;:■'■■ V A: ,.:; : .' ,; ' ,, Yiiii'iuv .•,' CHAPTER I. SOUPS. How TO Make Soups. — ^The word soiip^ to many minds^ conveys the idea of something that is extravagantly rich in composition and elabo- rately difficult in manner of preparation. Conse- quently^ we more frequently meet with soups as costly and cloying as real turtle, instead of finding them to be light, exhilarating and appetizing. Un- fortunately, many cooks do not appear to be alive to the fact that the less pretentious they^ make a soup the more certain it is to give satisfaction, and of all cooking, nothing is easier to do well, and nothing more difficult to do badly, than soup-mak- ing— ^too much pains being productive of the same results as too many cooks. Simply employ ingre- dients that are quite fresh, utensils that are thor- oughly clean, and skim carefully. If meat is used that is very fat, a cook is often obliged to let the soup grow cold, so as to remove all the fat from the top, re-warming the soup be- fore serving it ; but if we only make use of meat which is sufficiently lean, and do not neglect skim- ming the liquor while it is simmering, we shall be 17 18 SOUPS. spared the necessity of sacrificing the flavor of the soup for the sake of avoiding greasiness, A small quantity of fat, however, softens soup, half an ounce of butter to a quart of pottage being enough. Housekeepers should be aware that, though bones and bony joints are economical for soups, yet, when it can be had, the flesh of butchers^ meat is prefer- able. Of course, this does not apply to poultry and game. A small slice of ham or sausage, an anchovy, or a spoonful of sugar, improves the fla- vor of soups generally. Any of the things from the following list will, with the proper addition of herbs, roots, and sea- soning, make a tureen of good soup for a small family : One pound of lean meat. A wild pigeon. A small rabbit. A sheep^s or Iambus head. A chicken or old fowl. Two pounds of raw bones. A tame pigeon. A set of giblets. The reduced liquor in which has been boiled a calf^s head, fowl, turkey, rabbit, joint of meat, etc., etc. STOCKS FOR SOUPS AND HOW TO MAKE THEM, The word ^^stock^^ for soup frequently occurs in receipts. We now give some receipts for mak- ing them : SOUPS. 19 Good Stock for Ordinary Purposes. — Four pounds of shin-bone, and one pound of lean neck of beef, four carrots, one turnip, one stick of celery, two parsnips, two leeks, one onion, six cloves, six peppers, a bunch of sweet herbs, one gallon of water. Cut the meat into slices, crack the bone, and put it into an earthen pipkin that will stand the fire, as this makes far better soup than a metal saucepan; add the water, and let it stew slowly till the scum rises, and skim it clear; stick the cloves into the onion and then add the vegetablefc^ and let the whole stew slowly till the meat is in rags, which will be in about eight hours. It must simmer very slowly, for if it boils, the meat will not yield the gravy so well, and the stock will be thick in place of being clear. When cold, it should be strained through a cullender and kept in a covered pan or jar for use. White Stock. — Four pounds of knuckle of veal, any poultry trimmings, four slices of lean ham, three carrots, two onions, one head of celery, twelve white pepper-corns, two ounces of salt, one blade of mace, a bunch of herbs, one ounce of but- ter, four quarts of water. Cut up the veal, and put it with the bones and trimmings of poultry, and the ham, into the stewpan, which has been rubbed with the butter. Moisten with half a pint of water, and simmer till the gravy begins to flow. Then add the four quarts of water and the re- mainder of the ingredients ; simmer for five hours. 20 SOUPS. After skimming and straining it carefnlly through a very fine hair sieve^ it will be ready for use. When stronger stock is desired^ double the quan- tity of veal^ and put in an old fowl. The liquor in which a young turkey has been boiled is an ex- cellent addition to all white stock or soup. Economical Stock — The liquor in which a joint of meat has been boiled^ say four quarts | trimmings of fresh meat or poultry^ shank-bones, etc., roast-beef bones, any pieces the larder may furnish ; vegetables, spices, and the same seasoning as in the foregoing receipt. Let all the ingre- dient simmer gently for six hours, taking care to skim carefully at first. Strain it off, and put by for use. Eich Steono Stock. — Four pounds shin of beef, four pounds knuckle of veal, quarter pound of good lean ham, any poultry trimmings, two ounces of butter, three onions, three carrots, two turnips, (the latter should be omitted in summer, lest they ferment,) one head of celery, a few chopped mushrooms, when obtainable ; one tomato, a bunch of savory herbs, not forgetting parsley ; one and a half ounce of salt, three lumps of sugar, twelve white pepper-corns, six cloves, three small blades of mace, four quarts of water. Line a per- fectly clean stewpan with the ham cut in thin,^ broad slices, carefully trimming off all its rusty fat ; cut up the beef and veal in pieces about three SOUPS. 21 inches square, Cnd lay them on the ham ; set it on the stove, and draw it down, and stir frequently. When the meat is equally browned, put in the beef and veal bones, the poultry trimmings, and pour in the cold water. Skim well, and occasion- ally add a little cold water to stop its boiling, until it becomes quite clear ; then put in all the other ingredients, and simmer very slowly for five hours. * Do not let it come to a brisk boil, that the stock be not wasted, and that its color may be preserved. Strain through a very fine hair sieve, or cloth, and the stock will be fit for use. Plain Beep Soup. — One gallon of cold water, one pound of beef and two tablespoonfuls of rice. Let this boil, then add an onion or two or three leeks ; boil an hour. Peel and slice eight potatoes ; wash them in warm water ; add them to the soup, with a seasoning of salt and pepper; stir it fre- quently ; boil another hour, and then serve. Beef Soup.- — Get what is called a good beef soup bone, boil two hours, leaving about two quarts of broth ; break two eggs into some flour, and knead it very stiff ; roll out in three sheets to the thick- ness of wrapping paper ; spread them on a table to dry for half an hour ; then place them on one an- other and roll them up as you would jelly cake ; with a sharp knife cut very fine strips from the end, not wider than the thickness of a case knife ; shake them up to separate them; drop into your broth 22 SOUPS. slowly, stirring your soup all the while. Boil ten minutes ; season with pepper, salt, celery, or a little parsley. Mutton Soup. — A neck of mutton, weighing five or six pounds, three large carrots, three large turnips, two large onions, a bunch of sweet herbs; salt and pepper to taste ; a sprig of parsley, three quarts of water. Lay the ingredients in a covered pan before the fire, and let them remain there one day, stirring occasionally. The next day put the whole into a stewpan, and place it on a brisk fire. As soon as it boils, take the pan off the fire, and put it on one side to simmer until the meat is done. When ready for use, take out the meat, dish it with the carrots and turnips; strain the soup, let it cool, skim ofi* the fat, season it, and thicken it with a table- spoonful of arrowroot dissolved in cold water. Simmer for five minutes before serving. Mutton Broth. — Take two pounds of scrag mutton ; to take the blood out, put it into a stewpan, and cover it with cold water ; when the water be- comes milk warm, pour it off; then put it in four or five pints of water, with a teaspoonful of salt, a tablespoonful of best grits, and an onion ; set it on a slow fire, and when you have taken all the scum off, put in two or three turnips ; let it simmer very slowly for two hours, and strain it through a clean sieve. SOUPS. 23 Nuesery Soup. — To be prepared the day before it is wanted for use. Two pounds of scrag mutton or the knuckle of a leg ; put it into two quarts of cold water ; add two large turnips^ sliced, and a table- spoonful of rice or barley. Let this simmer for one hour ; take out the meat from the soup into a dish, and put away the liquor until the next day, when all the fat must be removed from the top. Turn the soup into a pot and add the meat cut into small pieces, a finely minced onion, a little parsley, a small head of celery, an ounce of butter, a tablespoonful of flour, mixed in cold water to the consistency of cream, burn a little brown sugar in an iron spoon, and pour a little boiling water over it into the flour ; strain the browned flour into the soup, add the other ingredients ; let all boil for an hour, when serve with small square dice of toasted bread. Economical Veal Soup. — Boil a piece of veal, suitable for a fricassee, pie, or hash. When tender, take the meat up and slip out all the bones ; put these back into the kettle and boil for two hours. Then strain the liquor, and stand away until the next day. When wanted, take off the fat, put the soup into a clean pot, add pepper, salt, an onion, a half teacupful of rice, a tablespoonful of flour mixed in cold water, and slices of potato. Boil thirty minutes and serve hot. Imitation of Mock-Turtle Soup. — Put into 24 SOUPS. a pan a knuckle of veal, two calf^s feet, two onions, a few cloves, peppers, allspice, mace, and sweet herbs; cover them with water, then tie a thick paper over the pan, and set it in an oven for three hours. When cold, take off the fat very nicely, cut the meat and feet into bits an inch and a half square, remove the bones and coarse parts, and then put the rest on to warm, with a large spoonful of walnut and one of mushroom ketchup, half a pint of sherry, or Madeira wine, a little mushroom powder, and the jelly of the meat. When hot, if it requires any further seasoning, add some, and serve with hard eggs, forcemeat balls and a squeeze of lemon soy. Veal Gkavy Soup. — Garnish the bottom of a stewpan with thin pieces of lard, add a few slices of ham, slices of veal cutlet, slices of onion, carrot, parsnips, celery, a few cloves upon the meat, and a spoonful of broth. Soak it on the fire in this way until the veal throws out its juice. Then put it on a stronger fire until the meat catches to the bottom of the pan, and is well browned. Then add about two quarts of light broth, and simmer all on a slow fire until the meat is thoroughly done ; add a little thyme and mushrooms. Skim and strain all clear for use. White Soup. — Boil a knuckle of veal and four calf^s feet in five quarts of water, with three sliced onions, a bunch of sweet herbs, four heads of white celery, cut small, a tablespoonful of whole pepper, a small teaspoonful of salt, and six large blades of SOUPS. 25 mace. Let all boil very slowly till the meat is in rags^ and has dropped from the bone^ and the gristle has quite dissolved. Skim well while boiling. When done strain through a sieve into a deep white ware pan. Next day take off all the fat, and put the jelly into a clean soup pot, with two ounces of vermicelli ; set over a clear fire. When the vermicelli is dis- solved stir in, gradually, a pint of thick cream while the soup is hot. Do not let it come to a boil after the cream is in, lest it should curdle. Cut up a few rolls in the bottom of a tureen, pour on the soup, and serve. / Calf’s Head Soup. — Procure a calf’s head, wash it well, and let it stand in salt and water two or three hours. Then soak it in fresh water. Put it on to boil, and when the meat will separate from the bone take it off. Strain the broth, cut the meat in small pieces, and add it to the broth. Then season with sweet marjoram, sage, thyme, sweet basil, pepper, salt, mace, and cloves. Take one pound of suet, and two pounds of veal, chopped fine, and, with sufficient bread crumbs and seasoning as above, make some forcemeat balls, and fry them in butter. Make also some small dumplings with a little flour, butter, and water. Add the dumplings, the forcemeat balls, two or three eggs, chopped fine, a spoonful of browned flour, and as much wine as you think fit to the soup. Vekmicelli Soup. — Put a shin of veal, one onion, two carrots, two turnips, and a little salt into 26 SOUPS. four quarts of water. Boil this three hours. Add two cups of vermicelli, and boil it an hour and a half longer. Before serving take out the bone and vegetables. Salt Meat Soup. — Two pounds of salt beef or salt pork, four carrots, four parsnips, four turnips, four potatoes, one cabbage, two ounces of ground rice, seasoning of salt and pepper, two quarts of water. Cut the meat in small pieces, add the water, and let it simmer for three quarters of an hour. Cut the vegetables in thin slices, add them to the meat, and boil all together for one hour. Thicken with the rice flour dissolved in cold water. Simmer for five minutes, and serve. Chicken Bkoth. — Cut up a chicken (an old one is best), and put it into an iron pot with two quarts of water, one onion, two tablespoonfuls of rice, and a little salt. Boil for two hours, and strain through a sieve. Brown Chicken Soup. — Cut up a nicely dressed chicken. Put it in the pot with water to cover it, which must be measured, and half as much more added to it before the soup is dished. Keep it cov- ered tight, boiling slowly, and take off the fat as fast as it rises. When the chicken is tender take it from the pot and mince it very fine. Season it to the taste, and brown it with butter in a dripping pan. When brown put it back in the pot. Brown together butter and flour, and make rich gravy by adding a SOUPS. 27 pint of the soup. Stir this in the soup, and season it with a little pepper, salt, and butter. Be careful the chopped chicken does not settle and burn on the pot. It will be well to turn a small plate on the bottom of the kettle to prevent this. Toast bread quite brown and dry, but do not burn it, and lay the toast in the tureen, and serve it with the soup. Stir the chicken through it, and pour it in the tureen. Paetkidoe Soup. — A brace of old partridges make a capital soup. Cut them up, and together with some celery, a slice of ham, and an onion, sliced ; toss them in a little butter and set over the fire until they are somewhat browned. Stew them, closely covered, in five pints of water, for two hours ; strain the soup, heat it again, and add to it some small dice of toasted bread, and a little stewed celery. Season with salt and pepper and serve hot. Babbit Soup. — Cut one or two rabbits into joints ; lay them for an hour in cold water ; dry and fry them in butter till about half done, with four or five onions and a middling-sized head of celery cut small ; add to this three quarts of cold water, one pound of split peas, some pepper and salt; let it stew gently for four or five hours, then strain and serve it. Caeeot Soup. — Pour quarts of liquor in which a leg of mutton or a piece of beef has been boiled 28 SOUPS. a beef or mutton bone, six large carrots, two large onions, one large turnip; seasoning of salt and pepper to taste. Put the liquor, bones, onions, turnips, pepper and salt into a stewpan, and sim- mer for three hours. Scrape the carrots and cut them in thin slices, strain the soup over them, and stew till soft enough to pulp through a hair sieve or coarse cloth ; boil the pulp in the soup until about the consistency of pea soup ; add Cayenne. Pulp only the red part of the carrot, and make the soup the day before it is served. Vegetable Soup. — Peel and slice six large onions, six potatoes, six carrots, and four turnips • fry them in half a pound of butter, and pour on them four quarts of boiling water. Toast a crust of bread as brown and hard as possible, but do not burn it, and put it in, with some celery, sweet herbs, white pepper and salt. Stew it all gently for four hours, and then strain it through a coarse cloth. Have ready thinly sliced carrot, celery and a little turnip. Add them to your liking, and stew them tender in the soup. If approved of, a spoonful of tomato catsup may be added. Clear Gravy Soup. — Lay at the bottom of the stewpan half a pound of lean ham sliced, then three pounds of lean beef, and over it three pounds of veal, all in slices. If any bones be left, break them and lay them on the meat ; peel four onions, slice two carrots, two turnips, and a head of celery, SOUPS. 29 and with a bunch of sweet herbs, four cloves, and a blade of mace, add all to the meat, over which pour one quart only of water, and place the stew- pan, covered, over a slow fire till 4he meat is brown; then turn it, but be careful it does not scorch. Then add three quarts of boiling water, and let it stew gently for an hour till you have carefully removed all the scum that rises; after which, place the stewpan at the side of the fire, now adding two teaspoonfuls of salt. Let it sim- mer for four hours, strain it through a tamis into an earthenware vessel, and set it by to cool. Then carefully remove the fat ; and when poured off to heat, do not disturb the sediment. The soup should be perfectly clear, and of an amber color ; and will look better without any addition of vege- tables. Gumbo.— Take one chicken, two slices of cold cooked ham, three large onions ; cut the chicken into pieces after it has laid in salt and water a half hour; slice the onions, and put all into a skillet with the ham, and fry together, until a nice brown, add a large tablespoonful of butter. Take half a gallon of young okra sliced very thin. After peeling one quart of ripe tomatoes, add to the okra with three quarts of water ; let it boil well, then add the fried meat and onions; season with Cayenne and black pepper, salt to taste. Boil about four hours until the okra is perfectly dissolved, over a slow fire. Then strain, according to taste. Some 30 SOUPS. prefer it not strained, and not too thick ; in that case do not let^ it boil quite so long. It is then ready for table. Okra or Gumbo Soup. — Boil a chicken and a slice of ham in sufficient water to make a tureen of soup. When the fowl is thoroughly don^, take it with the ham from the broth. Flavor the soup with onions, pepper, salt, and sweet herbs ; make a paste with eggs and flour, roll it as thin as wafers, dry a little, then roll it as tightly as possible, and slice in thin shreds ; put in the soup a teacupful of this, a teacupful of chopped okra, and a pint of oysters. Southern Gumbo Soup. — Fry one chicken, when cut up, to a light brown ; also two slices of bacon, pour on them three quarts of boiling water, add one onion and some sweet herbs tied in a rag ; simmer them gently three hours and a half ; strain off* the liquor, take off* the fat, and then put the ham and chickens cut into small pieces into the liquor ; add half a teacup of okra, also half a teacup of rice. Boil all half an hour, and just before serving add a glass of wine and a dozen oysters with their juice. Soup for the Million. — Put the bones, skin, and all the rough residue of any joint, into a sauce- pan, with a quart and half a pint of cold water, one large carrot, scraped and cut up, two large onions, sliced and fried brown in one ounce of butter ; and SOUPS. 31 one very small head of celery washed and cut up. Let it stew for two hours ; then add three medium- Bized potatoes^ peeled ; a saltspoonful of salt ; half a saltspoonful of pepper^ and half a saltspoonful of mustard. Let it simmer three quarters of an hour longer. Take out the bones and then rub the whole through a sieve. Lobsteu Soup. — shin of veal^ two carrots, two onions, pepper, salt, mace, and four quarts of water ; boil together four hours. Break up a large boiled lobster, take the meat out of the shell, break up the shell into a stewpan, with water enough to cover it. Let this simmer while the soup is boil- ing. Strain the vegetables, meat, and lobster shell, and put the liquor into the soup pot. Cut the meat of the lobster fine, and boil in the soup two hours. If you have the roe or coral of the lobster, grate it into the soup, as it adds to its tempting ap- pearance. Add a quarter of a pound of butter, braided into two tablespoonfuls of flour, a cup of wine, the juice of a lemon, or a tablespoonful of vinegar. New England Chowdee. — ^A good haddock, cod, or any other solid fish. Cut in pieces three inches square. Put a pound of fat salt pork cut in strips into a stewpan, set it on Hot coals, and fry out the oil. Take out the pork, put in a layer of fish, over that a layer of onions in slices, another layer of fish with strips of fat salt pork, another layer 3 32 SOUPS. of onions. Alternate in this way until your fish is consumed. Mix some flour with as much water as will fill the pot, season with black pepper and salt to taste, and boil for half an kour. Have ready some crackers (Philadelphial^ilot bread is the best) soaked in water until they are a little softened ; throw them into the chowder five min- utes before taking it oflT the fire. Serve in a tureen. Oyster Soup. — To one hundred oysters take one quart of milk, half a pint of water, four spoon- fuls of flour, half a cup of butter, and one teaspoon- ful of salt, with a very little Cayenne pepper. Boil and skim the liquor of the oysters. Steam the flour and butter over the teakettle until soft enough to beat to a froth ; then stir it in the liquor while boil- ing; after which add the other ingredients, and throw in the oysters, allowing them merely to scald. Clam Soup. — Separate fifty small clams from the juice, which put into a stewpan, and let sim- mer five minutes, put it on to cook and slowly add two tablespoonfuls of butter and one of flour rubbed together, stirring it well ; after this add half a teaspoonful of salt, half a nutmeg, and one pint of cream or milk, stir all well ; let it simmer ten min- utes ; chop up parsley and add the clams. One boil up is sufficient, as clams require little cooking. If large clams are used, it is necessary to chop them up. Bisque op Lobster. — A soup made with fish is always called a bisque. It is made either with SOUPS. 33 crabs or lobsters. Remove a portion from either side of the head and use the rest. To boil a lobster, put it in a fish-kettle, and cover it with cold water, cooking it on a quick fire. Two lobsters will make soup for six or eight persons, and also salad. All the under shell and small claws are pounded in, a mortar to make the bisque. When it is pounded, put it in a pan and set it on the fire wdth broth or water. The meat is cut in small pieces to be added afterwards. The bisque is left on the fire to boil gently for half an hour. Then pour it into a sieve and press it with a masher to extract the juice. To make it thicker a small piece of parsnip can be added and mashed with the rest into a pan, so that all the essence is extracted in that way from the lobster. When you have strained it, put a little butter with it, and add as much broth as is re- quired. Put some of the meat in the soup tureen, and pour the soup over it. CoLOEiNG FOE SoupS. — As soups often require coloring, it is well to prepare browning for that purpose. Two baked onions, well browned in the oven and then chopped fine, make an excellent coloring and flavoring. The shells of green peas dried in the oven brown, but not black, will also answer to brown soup, and will keep all winter if hung in a perfectly dry place. It will be found much better to use either of the above for coloring soup than the caramel or brown 34 SOUPS. sugar used by many cooks, as the sweet taste is apt to be perceptible. Eoast Yeal and Chicken Bones make a very nice soup, boiled with vegetables ^Jbut add a hand- ful of macaroni, break it up fine,^nd boil the soup half an hour after it is put in.^ Color the soup with a little soy or ketchup. CHAPTER II. FISH. To Bake a Laege Fish Whole. — Cut off the head, and split the fish down nearly to the tail ; prepare a nice dressing of bread, butter, pepper and salt, moistened with a little water. Fill the fish with this dressing, and bind it together with fine cotton cord or tape, so as to confine it; the bindings may be three inches apart ; lay the fish on a grate on a bake pan or a dripping-pan, and pour round it a little water and melted butter. Baste frequently. A good sized fish will bake in an hour. Serve with the gravy of the fish, drawn butter or oyster sauce. Rock Fish. — Rock fish or bass are best boiled plain, leaving on the head and tail. Boil steadily for half an hour. Serve with drawn butter with hard boiled eggs in it, chopped fine. Stuffed Fish. — Soak some bread in water, and squeeze it out, add a small onion, chopped fine, fried with butter till nearly done ; add to the onion the bread, salt, pepper, a little nutmeg, a little broth, the yelk of one egg. Stir rapidly, cooking over a clear fire ; when done, add a little parsley, 35 r 36 FISH. chopped fine. Cut the back-bone out of a two pound fish, put the stuffing in its place, and sew it up with a trussing needle and twine ; put a little salt and pepper on the ffish, inside and outside, a few pieces of butter under It in the pan, cover with a gill of broth, and bake in the oven. To Fry Trout. — Dry them thoroughly, and fry in hot oiled butter without scorching, or in pork fat. If the latter rub salt on the fish. Lay on the fish, before serving, lumps of sweet butter. Sturgeon.- — The meat of this tenant of the deep waters partakes very much of the properties of veal, both in flavor and appearance, and is of an insipid character unless it is treated with condiments so as to render it commendable to the palate of the gas- tronomist. When purchased at the fishmonger’s it should be cut into small fillets about one inch in thickness, and these should be covered over on both sides with a liberal supply of crumbs of bread, chopped parsley, lemon rind, and an egg to cause the above to adhere to the meat. Wrap the fillets in clean white writing paper, which has been buttered on the inside, and place on a gridiron over a clear fire until they are well done. Serve them with a sauce of melted butter, caviare and catsup, with salt and pepper to taste. Fried Cod-Fish.— Take the middle or tail part of a fresh cod-fish, and cut it into slices not quite an inch thick, first removing the skin. Season them FISH. 37 witli a little salt and Cayenne pepper. Have ready in one dish some beaten yelk of egg, and in another some grated bread crumbs. Dip each slice of fish twice into the egg, and then twice into the crumbs. Fry them in fresh butter, and serve them up with the gravy about them. Halibut may be fried as above. Feied Eels. — Clean and skin the eels. If large cut them into pieces, if small skewer them round and fry them whole. First dust them over with flour, then rub them with yelk of egg and sprinkle them with bread crumbs. Put them into boiling lard and fry until nicely browned. Potted Salmon. — Salmon, pounded mace, cloves, and pepper to taste, three bay leaves, a quar- ter of a pound of/butter. Skin the salmon, and clean it thoroughly by wiping with a cloth (water would spoil it). Cut it into square pieces, which rub with salt, let them remain till thoroughly drained, then lay them in a dish with the other in- gredients, and bake. When quite done drain them from the gravy, press into pots for use, and when cold pour over it clarified butter. To Pickle Fish. — Take any freshly caught fish, clean and scale them, wash and wipe them dry. Cut them into slices a few inches thick, put them in a jar with some salt, some allspice, and a little horse- radish. When filled cover them with good strong vinegar. Cover it well with a good cover. Let it 38 FISH. stand in your oven a few hours. Don^t let the oven be too hot. This will keep six months. Put it immediately in the cellar, and in a few months they will be fit for use. No bones will be found. To Pickle Herrings.— Wash fifty herrings well, and cut off their heads, tails, and fins. Put the fish into a stewpan, with three ounces of ground allspice, one tablespoonful of coarse salt, and a little Cayenne. Lay the fish in layers, and strew the spice equally over it, with a few bay leaves and anchovies inter- spersed. Pour over the whole a pint of vinegar mixed with a little water. Tie a bladder over the stewpan and bake in a slow oven. Skim off the oil, and with a little of the liquor boil, about half a pint of claret or port wine. The fish should be baked so slowly and so thoroughly that when cooked the bones should not be perceptible. Salt Fish. — Lay the fish to soak over night in cold water with a little vinegar in it. Wash it thor- oughly, put it into a fish-kettle, with sufficient cold water to cover it. Let it heat gradually, but not boil quickly, or the fish will become hard. A large fish will require to be kept boiling half an hour. Before taking the fish from the kettle remove all the scum from the top of the water. . Drain well. Parsnips may be laid around the fish on the edge of the dish, and hard boiled eggs, cut in slices, between the parsnips. Parsnip and egg sauce, in separate dishes, should also be served with salt fish. FISH. 39 Salt Fish with Paesnips. — Salt fish must always be well soaked in plenty of cold water the whole of the night before it is required for the fol- lowing day^s dinner. The salt fish must be put on to boil in plenty of cold water, without any salt, and when thoroughly done should be well drained free from any water, and placed on a dish with plenty of well-boiled parsnips. Some sauce may be poured over the fish, which is to be made as follows, viz, : Mix two ounces of butter with three ounces of flour, pepper, and salt, a small glassful of vinegar, and a good half pint of water. Stir this on the fire till it boils. A few hard-boiled eggs chopped up and mixed in this sauce would render the dish more acceptable. PiCKED-up Codfish. — ^This is an old-fashioned dish and name, but none the less to be admired on that account, being with most persons, when prop- erly prepared, a great favorite. Pick up the fish in small particles, separating the fibres as near as pos- sible, the finer the better. Freshen by leaving it in water one hour. Pour off* the water and fill up with fresh. Bring it to a scald, pour it off*, and put on the fish just enough water to cover it. Add to a quart of the soaked fish a bit of butter the size of half an egg, a very little flour, and a dust of pepper. Beat up two eggs, and after taking off* the fish thicken it by stirring in the egg. Some let it boil after the egg is added, but if this is done the egg will be cur- 40 FISH. died. Another way is to boil eggs, chop and mix them in the gravy. Codfish Balls. — Pick up as fine as possible a teacup of nice white codfish. Freshen all night, or if wanted for any other meal than breakfast, from the morning. Scald it once, and drain off the water. Chop and work it until entirely fine; Put it in a basin with water, a bit of butter the size of an egg, and two eggs. Beat it thoroughly, and heat it until it thickens without boiling. It should, when all is mixed, be about a quart. Have some potatoes ready prepared and nicely mashed. Work the fish and potatoes thoroughly together as above, make it in fiat cakes, and brown both sides. Cod Sounds (An Enteee). — Boil the sounds gently, and not too much. Take them out of the water and let them remain until quite cold. Make a forcemeat out of chopped oysters, crumbs of bread, a lump of butter, spice, pepper and salt, and the yelks of two eggs. Pill the sounds and skewer them up in the shape of chickens, and lard them down each side in the same manner as though they were the breasts of fowls. Dredge them with flour, put them before the fire to bake, basting them well with butter. When they are sufficiently cooked, pour upon them some oyster sauce. They make an excel- lent entree. Fish Cake.— Carefully remove the bones and skin from any fish, previously cooked, and let it PISH. 41 soak for a short time in warm water. After taking it out, press it dry, add to it an equal quantity of mashed potatoes, and beat together in a mortar to a fine paste; season to taste. Then make up the mass into round fiat cakes, sift a little^flour over each one, and fry in butter or lard till they are brown. Codfish recooked in this way is an ex- cellent breakfast dish. Kedjeree. — Take some fish that has been dressed, bone it carefully, and pull it into very small bits. Add hard-boiled eggs chopped, and as much rice well boiled as you require to fill your dish. Mix all these well together, with sufficient butter or cream to moisten them, adding a little Cayenne, mustard, and salt. Put all into a sauce- pan and stir with a fork (not a spoon) until quite hot. The fire must not be too fierce, and the dish must be served up very hot. Lobster Patties. — ^Make some puff paste, and spread it on very deep patty pans. Bake it empty. Having boiled well two fine lobsters, extract all the meat and mince it very small, mixing with it the coral smoothly mashed, and some yelks of hard boiled eggs, grated. Season it with a little salt, some Cayenne, some powdered mace or nutmeg, adding a little yellow lemon rind, grated. Moisten the mixture well with cream, fresh butter, or salad oil. Put it into a stewpan, add a very little water, and let it stew till it just comes to a boil. Take it 42 FISH. off the fire, and the patties being cased, remove them from the tin panvS, place them on a large dish, and fill them to the top with the mixtures. Simi- lar patties may be made of crabs. Lobster Eissoles. — Extract the meat of a boiled lobster, mince it as fine as possible, mix with it the coral, pounded smooth, and somj0 yelks of hard-boiled eggs, pounded also. Seascin it with Cayenne pepper, powdered mace, and a very little salt. Make a batter of beaten egg, milk, and flour. To each egg allow two large tablespoonfiils of milk, and a large teaspoonful of flour. Beat the batter well, and then mix the lobster with it gradually, till it is stiff enough to make into oval balls about the size of a large plum. Fry them in the best salad oil, and serve them either warm or cold. Simi- lar rissoles may be made of raw oysters, minced fine, or of boiled clams. These should be fried in lard. To Fry Oysters. — -Beat up an egg in one ves- sel and grate one or two crackers in another. Dip the oysters singly, first into the egg, then into the cracker. Fry the oysters so prepared in equal parts of butter and lard. It is also recommended to dry the oysters with a towel, beforehand. Clams may be fried in the same way. Pickled Oysters. — ^Lay the oysters on a sieve to drain the liquor from them ; leave it to settle, then pour off the clear portion, and boil it up well with pepper, salt, mace, and ginger to the taste ; then FISH. 43 wash the oysters well in several waters to remove all the slime, and give them one boil up in the liquor. Oyster Stew. — To one hundred oysters, take one quart of milk, a half pint of water, four table- spoonfuls of flour, one teaspoonful of salt, a half cup of butter and a little Cayenne pepper. Put the liquor of the oysters on to boil. Mix butter and flour and steam it in a bowl over the teakettle till soft enough to beat to a froth, then stir it into the liquor, after which add the other ingredients. German Eeceipt for Oyster Powder. — Take fresh oysters, beard them, and place them in a vessel over the fire for a few moments in order to extract the juice, then put them to cool, and chop them very fine with pounded biscuit, mace, and finely-minced lemon-peel; pound them until they become a paste; make them up into thin cakes, place them on a sheet of paper in a slow oven, and let them bake until they become quite hard, pound them directly into powder, and place the powder in a nice, dry tin box. Keep in a dry place, and when oysters are out of season you will find this powder very serviceable in imparting the flavor of the fish to various sauces and dishes. Crumbed Oysters. — Eight square soda-crack- ers rolled fine, seven ounces of butter, one quart of oysters; drain the oysters; put the crackers and oysters in alternate layers; divide the butter equally, 44 FISH. putting it on the oysters at each layer, with a dust of pepper ; be careful not to salt too much, leaving the bottom and top layer crackers. A moment before baking add a coffee cup of the liquor from the oysters ; bake a light brown. Scalloped Oystees. — Wash out of the liquor two quarts of oysters, pound very fine eight soft crackers, or grate a stale loaf of bread butter a deep dish, sprinkle in a layer of crumbs, then a layer of oysters, a little mace, pepper, and bits of butter ; another layer of crumbs, another of oysters, then seasoning as before, and so on until the dish is filled ; cover the dish over with bread-crumbs, seasoning as before ; turn over it a cup of the oyster liquor. Set it into the oven for thirty or forty minutes to brown. Oyster Forcemeat. — Open carefully a dozen fine plump natives, take off the beards, strain the liquor, and rinse the oysters in it. Grate four ounces crumb of a stale loaf into fine light crumbs, mince the oysters, but not too small, and mix them with the bread ; add one and a half ounce of good butter, broken into minute bits, the grated rind of half a small lemon, a small saltspoonful of pounded mace, some Cayenne, a little salt, and a large tea- spoonful of parsley; mix these ingredients well, and work them together with the unbeaten yelk of one egg, and a little oyster liquor, the remainder of which can be added to the sauce which usually accompanies this forcemeat. FISH. 46 Oyster Patties in Batter. — Make a batter with the yelk of one egg (or more, according to the quantity of oysters you intend to prepare), a little nutmeg, some beaten mace, a little flour, and a little salt ; dip in the oysters, and fry them in lard to a nice light brown. If preferred, a little parsley may be shred very fine, and mixed with the batter. The batter may also be made thicker, and formed into the shape of a patty, or put into a small tin mould, the oyster being dropped in and covered over, and the whole baked as a pudding would be. Oyster Omelette. — Three eggs well beaten, a little parsley, and an onion well minced, a little pepper and salt, one dozen good oysters ; fry in butter with a little cream. The omelette must not be turned, but when done on the one side must be browned, or held close to the fire when it rises and browns ; serve hot with good gravy. Oyster Sauce. — ^Boil the oysters in their own liquor until they look plump, then take them out and strain the liquor ; add to it wine, vinegar, and pepper to your taste, and pour it over the oysters. Clam Fritters. — Strain the clams thoroughly from the juice, chop them fine, season with pepper and salt, and add an egg or two, with a little cream or milk ; sift in flour enough to make them stick together — -and fry. To Boil Crabs. — Boil for twenty minutes, wipe and crack the claws, rub the shells with oil, and 46 FISH. dish as with lobster. To cook soft-shell crabs, re- move the claws, cut open and take away the sand- bag and spongy part ; then put some butter in a pan and fry brown on both sides. Tekeapins. — Boil three terrapins till the bones can be easily removed, after which Jshop the meat very fine ; add two tablespoonfuls of butter, one pint of tomato catsup, half a pint of sherry or Madeira wine, one tablespoonful of mixed mustard, two onions, boiled and chopped fine, salt, black and red pepper to taste ; stir the mixture well • scrape and clean two of the backs. CHAPTER HI. SAUCES AND PICKLES Sauces. — Melted butter, a sauce, is, in its simplest form, a mixture of butter, flour, salt and water; and the talent consists in bringing those ingredients together, and in the quantities employed of each. It ought not to be a mixture of flour and water with a little butter added to it — this is the common form — but, as its name implies, it ought to be butter and water, with a little flour added to it to thicken the mixture. If you like your sauce thick, put more flour ; and if thin, put less. To be well made, the sauce should be smooth and velvety in appearance, and, above all, devoid of what are called knobs. To obtain this result proceed in this way : Melt the butter in a saucepan, and then add the flour, which will amalgamate very easily with it ; salt and stir in enough of hot water, keep stirring the mixture on the fire until it thickens; then serve. The above is the simplest form, but like all simple things, it is the foundation of an imposing array of sauces, to be eaten with fish, flesh, fowl, and vege- tables without end. 4 47 48 SAUCES AND PICKLES. 1. Beat up the yelk of an egg and the juice of a lemon, and stir in just before serving, off the fire, 2. Use milk, or milk and water, instead of water. 3. Throw in, just before serving, some chopped parsley, capers, or pickles chopped small. These additions are not incompatibly with the arrange- ments Nos. 1 and 2. \ 4. Let the butter and flour get a good brown color, then add water, and when the sauce is made, Worcester Sauce, ketchup, pepper and other spices and condiments to taste. 5. Use a mixture of half water and half tomato sauce instead of water, and add condiments to taste, if the tomato sauce is not sufficiently flavored. N. B. — This is not to be used in dressing maca- roni, but only for cutlets, boiled fowls, with rice, various vegetables, etc. 6. Cut up some onions, a very small piece of garlic, and boil in milk, with whole pepper, mace, a clove or two, etc., tied up in a piece of muslin, and some parsley. When the mixture is well flavored, strain and use the milk instead of water to make your sauce ; egg and lemon may be added if wished. Without these last two it is not a bad substitute for onion sauce. Shad or rock fish boiled in the flavored milk, and served with the sauce over them, are not bad eating. The great rock to be avoided is excess of any one thing in flavoring the milk, chiefly in the spice line. SAUCES AND PICKLES. 49 7. For puddings and sweet dishes the sauce is made in the same way, excepting that the salt is replaced by sugar, in larger quantities, of course. This should be made with milk, or milk and water, and an egg or two used, with or without lemon, according to taste; or the egg should be beaten up with brandy or wine: Mushkoom Catsup. — Get fine-grown, fresh- gathered mushrooms, break them up, and sprinkle a good handful of salt over every layer. Let them lie for all the juice to run out, stirring them up often, but put no water. When the juice has run out, strain it oif, and boil it well, with very little ginger, and a sufficient quantity of pepper. It is a mistake to give mushroom catsup all kinds of fla- vorings, as it is the full flavor of the mushroom which it is all-important to preserve, and in using it the cook can add the spices her dish requires. All that is necessary or good to make the catsup keep is to put salt and pepper enough. A mat- ter of yet greater importance is to use the pure juice without water, as any mixture of water spoils the flavor and the keeping, too. There is no better sauce for fried or broiled fish than a really good mushroom catsup, and nothing else; and mixed with equal parts of soy and lemon pickle, it makes a delicious flavoring for any sauce or gravy. Make it a quartette with a fourth equal part of red wine, and ^Gt^s no ill,^^ as the Scot says. 60 SAUCES AND PICKLES. ^ Tomato Catsup.^ — Take six pounds of tomatoeS| sprinkle them with salt, let them remain for a day or two, then boil them until the skins will separate easily ; press them through a colander or coarse sieve, leaving the skins behind. Put into the liquor a handful of shalots, a pint of Chili vinegar, a pint of wine, salt, pepper, cloves, ginger, and allspice. Boil all together until a third is wasted, bottle it, and when it is cold cork the bottles very well. Shake it before using it. Good either for sauce or for flavoring. Tomato Maemalade.— Take fine ripe toma- toes, cut them in halves, and squeeze out the juice. Put them in a preserving-pan, with a few peach- leaves, a clove of garlic, some slices of onion or shalot, and a bundle of parsley. Stew them until they are sufficiently done, pulp them through a sieve, and boil them down like other marmalade, adding salt. Put them into small jars, pepper the tops, and pour clarified butter over. Eat it with fish, etc., or stir the contents of a small pot into the gravy of stews or fricassees. Belsize Tomato Sauce.— Slice tomatoes in a jar, and sprinkle salt over every layer of slices. Place the jar in a warm place by the fire, stir the contents pretty often for three days, and let it re- main untouched for twelve days. Press out the juice, and boil it with mace, pepper, allspice, gin- ger, and cloves. There should be two ounces of SAUCES AND PICKLES. 61 spice to a quart of juice, the pepper and allspico greatly predominating. At the end of three months it should be boiled up with fresh spice. Tomato Yinegae. — Quarter three dozen fine tomatoes, leave the bottoms undivided ; rub half a pound of salt over them, place them in a wide- mouthed jar in a cool oven, or by the side of the fire, for a day or two ; add a little mace, cloves, and grated nutmeg; slice in a clove of garlic, sprinkle in half a pint of mustard seed, and pour over all two quarts of boiling vinegar ; tie a blad- der over the jar, and let it remain five or six days more by the fire, shaking it well every day. Put it by in the same jar as long as convenient, and when you wish to bottle it press out all the liquor ; let it stand several hours to clear, and then bottle the clear, and keep that which is not quite clear for present use. Tomato vinegar and tomato sauce should both be kept in store, as the sub-acid fiavor is sometimes an improvement in the dishes in which it is used, whereas at other times we require the flavor of the tomato unmingled with acid. Lemon Pickle, — Grate off the rind of twenty lemons, or pare it off* so thin as to cut through the little globules, grating or cutting it into a small quantity of vinegar, to be added to the lemon pickle with the vinegar. Cut the lemons in quarters, leav- ing the bottoms whole. Rub over them equally 52 SAUCES AND PICKLES. half a pound of bay salt, and put them into a stone jar in a cool oven, or on the hob by the fire, until the juice is dried into the peels. Then put in amongst them a blade of mace, a few cloves beaten fine, some grated nutmeg, a clove of garlic peeled and sliced, and half a pint of mustard seed bruised, and pour over all two quarts of boiling vinegar. Close the jar well, let it stand in its warm place five or six days, shaking it up every day. Tie it down tight with a bladder, and put it by for three months to take off the bitter. After this it may be bottled when convenient. Put all into a hair sieve, and squeeze out the liquor. Let the liquor stand until the next day, and bottle the fine. Let the remain- der stand two days, bottle the fine part, and repeat the same until all is bottled. A little will not hurt the color of white sauce, and it is capital for flavor- ing stews and ragouts, and also makes a very nice fish sauce. In using it for flavoring put it in before the gravy is thickened, especially if cream be used, lest the sharpness should make it curdle. Chutney. — Pare and core a quarter of a pound of sharp apples, weigh the same quantity of toma- toes, raisins, figs, brown sugar, and salt. Pound them in a mortar, and pound and mix with them a quarter of an ounce of chilis or Cayenne pepper, the same of powdered ginger, half an ounce each of garlic and shalots. Mix all well together in a large jar, put in three pints of vinegar and one of lemon juice, and stand the jar where it will be in heat amounting SAUCES AND PICKLES. 53 to 130° Fahrenheit for a month, stirring it twice a day. If sour apples are not to be had, gooseberries will do, but not so well. The top liquor or quihi may be poured off and bottled. It is an excellent fish sauce. The thick part is the chutney, and should be put into wide-mouthed bottles. Both are excellent for flavoring sauces or gravies, or to eat as sauce. Bkowning. — Beat fine four ounces of refined sugar, and put it into a very clean frying-pan, with one ounce of butter. TVIix them together over a clear fire, and when the sugar froths in dissolving, hold the pan a little off the fire, and when the sugar is of a deep brown pour in by degrees, little by little, and stirring the mixture all the time, a pint of red wine. Stir in half an ounce of allspice, six cloves, four shalots, peeled, a blade of mace, a wineglass of catsup, and the rind of a lemon. Simmer it for ten minutes or a quarter of an hour, pour it into a basin to get cold, then skim it very clean, and bottle it for use. It is good for any brown gravy. Browning is often made for present use by burning a good tea- spoonful of brown sugar in a large iron spoon. Stirred into brown gravy it gives both richness and color. Another browning is made by allowing flour to bake until it is of one uniform dark-brown color. It takes many days, and must be stirred about from time to time while doing. Mushroom Powder. — Peel the thickest large 54 SAUCES AND PICKLES, buttons you can get, and just pare off the root end, but do not wash them. Place them on pewter dishes, so that their liquor will dry into them, and put them into a slow oven until they will powder. Beat them up in a mortar, sift the powder through a sieve with a little Cayenne pepper and pounded mace, bottle it, and keep it in a dry place. Fish Sauce. — Take half a pint of milk and cream together, two eggs well beaten, salt, a little pepper, and the juice of half a lemon. Put it over the fire and stir it constantly until it begins to thicken. Tomato Sauce.: — Take seven pounds of ripe tomatoes. Skin them, put them in a preserving kettle, with four pounds of sugar, and boil until the sugar penetrates the tomatoes ; add one pint of vinegar, one ounce of cloves, and one ounce of ground cinnamon; boil thirty minutes, and then seal up close in stone jars. This will keep for years. Musheoom Sauce. — ^Half a pint of button mushrooms, half a pint of good beef gravy, one tablespoonful of mushroom catsup, thickening of butter and flour. Put the gravy into a saucepan, thicken it, and stir it over the fire until it boils. Prepare the mushrooms by cutting off the stalks, and wiping them free from grit and dirt ; the large, flat mushrooms cut into small pieces wdll answer for a sauce, when the buttons are not obtainable. Put them into the gravy, and let them simmer very SAUCES AND PICKLES. 55 gently for ten minutes, then add the catsup, and serve. When fresh mushrooms are not in season, the mushroom powder makes a good sauce for roast meats. Beead Sauce. — Cut some bread into slices, adding to it some pepper, an onion, a little salt and butter, and enough boiling milk to cover it. Let it simmer gently before the fire, until the whole of the milk is soaked up by the bread, then add a little thick cream, remove the onion and riib through a hair sieve. Serve very hot in a sauce tureen. Sauce foe Fowls. — An excellent white sauce for fowls may be made of two ounces of butter, two small onions, one carrot, half a teacupful of flour, one pint of new milk, salt and pepper to taste. Cut up the onions and carrots very small and put them into a stewpan with the butter ; simmer them until the butter is nearly dried up ; then stir in the flour, and add the milk. Boil the whole gently until it thickens, strain it, season with salt and Cayenne, and serve. Sauce foe Boiled Poultey. — Chop a stick of blanched celery very fine, in a quart of new milk ; let it boil gently in a stewpan, with a few black pepper-corns till reduced to one pint. Stir till the whole is a smooth pulp. Thicken with the yelk of a fresh egg well beaten with half a teacupful of fresh cream. 56 SAUCES AND PICKLES. Savoky Sauce foe a Eoast Goose. — A table- spoonful of made mustard/‘half a teaspoonful of Cayenne pepper, and three spoonfuls of port wine. When mixed, pour this (hot) into the body of the goose before sending it up. It wonderfully improves with sage and onions. Giblet Sauce. — Take the livers, lights, gizzards, and hearts from fowls. Boil very tender, and chop them fine. Make a nice thin drawn-butter, and stir them in ; or boil and chop them, and use the water in which they were boiled ; season with butter, pepper and salt ; beat up the yelks of two eggs, add them, and keep the sauce stirring until it thickens. This sauce is best for roast fowls. Sauce for Wild Duck. — A tablespoonful of made mustard, a teaspoonful of essence of anchovies, a pinch of Cayenne pepper, a tablespoonful of mushroom ketchup, and a wineglass of claret. Mix the mustard and anchovy essence thoroughly in a saucepan, add the Cayenne, then the ketchup, a few drops at a time ; the claret last ; heat over a clear fire. Slice the breast of the duck, and pour the sauce over it very hot. Yenison Rayigote Sauce. — Put three pounds of venison in a vessel ; set on the fire in a pan one pint of vinegar, two bay. leaves, two cloves, two leaves of garlic, one onion sliced, two stalks of thyme, four of parsley, and one dozen pepper-corns. Let it boil, and turn it over the venison. Leave it SAUCES AND PICKLES. 57 for a day, turning the venison occasionally. Then put the venison in a pan with some spices, and pour the juice and vinegar back ^over it, adding salt and a few pieces of butter, and bake it. If you roast the venison, put the vinegar and spices in the dripping pan, and baste with it. For the sauce take an onion chopped fine and set on the fire with one ounce of butter; when nearly done, add a dessertspoonful of flour, one gill and a half of broth, and stir. Then add the drippings from the venison, and boil gently over a slow fire. The ravigote sauce can be used with beef, mutton or pork. Keep it on the fire five minutes, add chop- ped parsley, and serve. Geeen Mint Sauce. — The French use this for boiled lamb. It is made by putting green mint, chopped fine, and parsley, in vinegar. Sauce Eobeet. — Cut a few onions into dice, which put into a frying-pan with a bit of butter, and fry them lightly ; when nicely browned, add a dessertspoonful of flour, a ladleful of stock, the same of vinegar, some salt and pepper ; reduce it to a proper thickness, and when ready for table stir in two dessertspoonfuls of mustard. Celeey Sauce. — Make half a pint of melted butter, of course, using only milk or cream, or both mixed. Have ready three heads of celery, the white parts well washed and cut up into small bits, and boiled for a few minutes in water, which strain 68 SAUCES AND PICKLES. off; put the celery to the melted butter, and keep it stirred over the fire for ten or twelve minutes. It is better to put the celery in before the melted butter boils up — as soon as it is hot will do. This is a very nice sauce for boiled fowl or turkey. Hoeseeadish Sauce. — One tablespoonful of grated horseradish, one saltspoonful of mustard, a pinch of salt, four tablespoonfuls of cream, and two tablespoonfuls of white vinegar. Mix well together, adding the vinegar last, and stirring very rapidly when pouring that on the mixture. Potato Sauce. — Smoothly mash one large steamed potato when it is hot, and add a little salt, shred-lemon peel and white pepper ; mix with it some dissolved butter, the beaten yelk of a new- laid egg, and pour over it enough boiling milk to render it sufficiently thin in consistency. Gravy instead of milk may be added when a white sauce is not wanted, and potato flour, instead of mashed potato used when easily procured. Any particular flavor may be imparted to this sauce according to taste, such as chopped herbs, olives or pickles. Rice Sauce. — This is a delicate white sauce for eating with game or chicken, as a change from the usual bread sauce, and is a great deal used in India. Soak a quarter of a pound of rice in a pint of milk, with onion, pepper, and salt. When it is quite tender rub it through a sieve into a stewpan, and boil it. If too thick, thin with cream or milk. SAUCES AND PICKLES. 59 Wine Sauce. — One cup of butter and two cups of sugar stirred to a cream ; one cup of wine added slowly. Set the bowl in a kettle of hot water three- quarters of an hour before you wish to use it. It must not be stirred or poured out of the bowl. Madeira Sauce. — Two cups of white sugar, three-quarters of a cup of butter ; beat to a cream, and add by the teaspoonful, a cup of Madeira wine. Mix well, place the bowl containing the mixture in a vessel of boiling water, and stir to a cream. Serve hot. Pudding Sauce, No. 1. — Beat to a cream one cup of butter with two cups of sugar, one cup of wine to be added slowly. Set the bowl it is in in a kettle of hot water three-quarters of an hour be- fore you wish it for use. It must not be stirred before placing on the table, or poured out of the bowl. Pudding Sauce, No. 2. — Dissolve two cups of sugar in a cup of butter, and add a wineglassful of wine; beat them well together, and flavor with nutmeg or mace to suit the taste. Lemon Sauce. — Melt two ounces of butter in a little water ; put in two ounces of sugar, the juice and grated rind of half a lemon, and the pulp and juice of the other half. Boil together five minutes, and serve hot, for cold puddings. Orange Sauce. — Rub together one ounce of flour and two ounces of butter; put it into a sauce- 60 SAUCES AND PICKLES. pan, with the juice of four large oranges, the shred rind of half an orange, and two tablespoonfuls of loaf sugar. Stir gently over the fire until all is well mixed, and serve. Sweet Egg Sauce. — Put the yelks of four hard boiled eggs into a mortar, with an equal weight of fresh butter and sugar ; beat it smooth, then dilute with a sufficiency of either milk or white wine. Add the grated rind of half a lemon ; boil five minutes, and serve. Sweet Pudding Sauce. — Mix with half a pint of melted butter two dessertspoonfuls of pounded loaf-sugar (with or without a wineglass of sherry), make it quite hot, and pour it over and around the puddings when they are turned out into the dish. PICKLES. The general principle of pickling may be soon stated, although it is not universally applicable to all varieties. The vegetables are in the majority of cases placed in strong brine for some hours or days. This is done to extract part of the watery fluids they contain, for by a law well known to chemists, when two liquids are separated by an animal or vegetable membrane, an interchange takes place; but the lighter fluid is more rapidly attracted by the heavier. It follows, therefore, that if vegetables are put into strong brine, the more fluid parts are extracted, and the vegetable becomes less watery than before. SAUCES AND PICKLES. 61 Great advantage, especially in wholesale manufac- ture, is taken of this circumstance, for, instead of placing tho substances in the first instance, in vinegar, which would be so weakened that it would have to be renewed at a considerable cost, the vege- tables are first pickled in strong brine, and, when the water is extracted, they are finally preserved in vinegar, and bottled. As an example of this method of proceeding we give the following : — To Pickle Stkikg Beans. — String beans make a deservedly popular pickle, but they should not be more than half grown when gathered ; have them as much of one size as possible, and let a little of the stalk remain upon each. Put them into a brine strong enough for an egg to float in ; let them stay in it for three days, stirring occasionally; place them in a preserving pan, with plenty of vine leaves both over and under them ; cover them in the brine in which they have steeped ; put some- thing over them to keep the steam from escaping, and set them over a very slow fire until they turn green, but they should not be allowed to boil ; drain them in a sieve, and arrange them in a jar; pour upon them a pickle made by heating some ♦ of the best white wine vinegar, which you have flavored with mace, ginger, and pepper. If the beans are already properly greened, the pickle may be employed cold, otherwise use it hot. It is needless to say that in following out these 62 SAUCES AND PICKLES. directions the vinegar used should not be boiled in a copper, but, if possible, in an enamelled pan. Sometimes the salt is more advantageously used dry, as extracting the moisture of the plant more rapidly. The following receipt is an example of this mode of procedure : — To Pickle Red Cabbage.— Choose a medium- sized fresh red cabbage; tear off the coarse outer leaves, quarter it, remove the stalk, cut the cabbage into slices of about the third of an inch in thick- ness ; place it in a bowl, strew amongst it two good handfuls of salt ; let the whole stand for twenty- four hours ; stirring it once or twice ; drain it as dry as possible; place it loosely in wide-mouthed jars, and fill up with either the prepared vinegar given above, or use strong raw vinegar, adding pepper- corns, capsicums, pieces of ginger, or what other spice you may fancy. This in a day or two will be of a splendid crimson color, and eat deliciously crisp. Those cooks who prefer to boil their vine- gar and spices in an iron pot, and forthwith pour the pickle boiling hot upon the cabbage, may rea- sonably expect soon to find the latter limp, ill- flavored, and of a dismal purplish blue. The caution here given respecting the boiling the vinegar in an iron vessel is perfectly correct. For, if done, a small quantity of the metal will be dis- solved by the acid, and, although perfectly whole- some, alter materially the fine color which is so much esteemed in this pickle. SAUCES AND PICKLES. 63 Pickled Nastuktiums. — ^Very frequently nas- turtiums are merely thrown into seasoned vinegar ; they should be gathered in sunshiny weather. Al- though this method answers tolerably well, it is preferable to put the freshly pickled nasturtiums into a strong brine of salt and water, and let them remain in this till they grow somewhat soft ; then cover them with strong vinegar, and they will keep for years. To Pickle Cabbage a Good Color. — Put a few slices of beet-root amongst it — will find it makes it a very beautiful color, besides being a nice addition to the pickles. To Pickle Mushrooms. — Rub the buttons with flannel and salt, throw them into a stewpan with a little salt over them, then sprinkle them with some pepper and a small quantity of mace. As the liquor comes out shake them well, and keep them over a gentle fire until all is dried into them again, then put as much vinegar into the pan as will cover them. Give it a scald, and pour the whole into bottles. Small Onion Pickle. — Small onions, not larger than marbles, must be carefully peeled and thrown into strong brine. Let them remain eight days, changing the brine every other day. Dry in a cloth, place them in bottles, add spice, and fill up with strong distilled vinegar. A teaspoonful of olive oil will prevent the onions from turning yellow. Mus- tard seed, horseradish, allspice, cloves, black pep- 5 64 SAUCES AND PICKLES. per-corns, and mace are all excellent spices for onions. Spiced Onions. — Peel large onions and lay them in a jar. Put as much cider vinegar as will cover them in a pot, with cloves, allspice, cinnamon, mace, mustard seed, horseradish. When the vinegar boils pour it over the onions. Let them stand twelve hours. Pour off the vinegar, heat to boiling point, and pour on again until the vinegar has been heated three times, when the onions will be fit for use. Pickled Onions. — Have the onions gathered when quite dry and ripe, and with the fingers take off the thin outside skin, then with a knife remove one more skin, when the onion will look quite clear. Have ready some very dry bottles or jars, and as fast as the onions are peeled put them in. Pour over sufficient cold vinegar to cover them, add two teaspoonfuls of allspice and two teaspoonfuls of black pepper, taking care that each jar has its share of the latter ingredients. Tie down with bladder, and put them in a dry place, and in a fortnight they will be fit for use. This is a most simple receipt, and very delicious, the onions being nice and crisp. They should be eaten within six or eight months after being done, as the onions are liable to become soft. To Pickle Beet-koot. — This vegetable makes an excellent pickle, and from the brightness of its color has a very pretty effect in a glass pickle dish or jar. Wash the beet perfectly. Do not cut off SAUCES AND PICKLES. 66 any of the fibrous roots, as this would allow the juice to escape, and thus the coloring would be lost. Put it into sufficient water to boil it, and when the skin will come off it will be sufficiently cooked, and may be taken out and laid upon a cloth to cool. Having rubbed off the skin cut the beet into thick slices, put it into a jar, and pour over it cold vine- gar, prepared as follows : Boil a quart of vinegar with one ounce of whole black pepper, and an equal weight of dry ginger, and let it stand until quite cold. The jar should be kept closely corked. Carolina Chow-Chow. — The evening before you wish to make your pickle take the cabbage, chop it up fine, say a water-pailful, put a layer of cabbage, sprinkle with salt, and so on until the ves- sel is full, place a plate on it to press it down, and let it stand until morning. Prepare ten large onions in the same way, spread the cabbage on a cloth, and let it remain while you are preparing your vinegar. Take one gallon of the best vinegar and sweeten to your taste, put into a bowl some mustard, two ounces of pulverized cinnamon, two ounces of tur- meric, two ounces of white mustard seed, two ounces of celery seed, half a pint of grated horseradish, mix all well together in the vinegar, and let it come to a boil, then put in the cabbage and onions and let them boil about ten minutes. If too thick add vinegar. You can use salad oil, half a teacupful, if you like it, and other spices. 66 SAUCES AND PICKLES. Pickle Chow-Chow. — A quarter of a peck of green tomatoes, a quarter of a peck of white onions, a quarter of a peck of pickling beans, one dozen green cucumbers, one dozen green peppers, one large head of cabbage. Season with mustard, celery seed, salt, to suit the taste. Cover the mixture with the best vinegar. Boil two hours slowly, continually stirring, and add two tablespoonfuls of salad oil while hot. Chow-Chow. — (Excellent.) — To one peck of green tomatoes add three good sized onions, six pep- pers with the seeds taken out. Chop together and boil three minutes in three quarts of vinegar. Throw this vinegar away after straining. Then to three quarts of new vinegar, when scalding hot, add two cups of sugar, one cup of mixed mustard, one table- spoonful of cloves, one of allspice, two of cinnamon, three of salt. Pour over the tomatoes hot. Old Virginia Chow-Chow. — Three pecks of ripe tomatoes, three of green tomatoes, five large heads of cabbage, one dozen large onions, one dozen ripe peppers, one dozen green peppers, half a pound of celery. Chop all very fine, cover with salt, and soak twenty-four hours. Then drain the brine off, thoroughly cover with strong vinegar, and add three pounds of sugar. Scald one hour, add one cup of grated horseradish, two tablespoonfuls of white mustard seed, one of cloves, two of allspice, two of ginger, and one of ground mustard. Cover close for one month, when it will be ready for use. / SAUCES AND PICKLES. 67 India Pickle. — ^Quarter of a pound of ginger, half an ounce of ground cloves, half an ounce of chil- lies, four ounces of black pepper, two of ground all- spice, four of coarse salt, two of garlic, two of escha- lots, quarter of a pound of mustard seed, and a small piece of alum, all put into two gallons of pure cider or white wine vinegar, and boiled half an hour. Mix half a pound of mustard and quarter of a pound of tannin, smoothe with a little vinegar, and add to the above pickle. Let it just come to a boil, then pour into a deep jar. Put into this pickle all vege- tables as they come in their season, being careful to have them well dried. Let them remain in the pickle three weeks, then bottle for use. This will keep perfectly good three years. Yellow Pickle. — Have firm white cabbages cut in quarters ; put into strong brine for two or three days; then scald them in clear water until you can run a straw in them ; take them out and dry them for twenty-four hours in the sun, or by the stove, as may be most convenient; then put them in strong cider vinegar, with powdered tur- meric sufficient to color the cabbage, and let them remain in the vinegar about ten days. White onions managed the same way ; also lemons whole. Cucumbers — white are the best — must not be scalded or dried, but only changed from the brine to the vinegar colored with the turmeric. After re- maining in the turmeric vinegar ten or twelve days, take the fruit and vegetables out of it, and put 68 SAUCES AND PICKLES. them in a sieve or on a plank, and let all the vine- gar drain from them for two or three hours. Have the following spices, etc., prepared ready, and pack them in a jar, a layer of fruit and vegetables and a layer of spices until the jar is three parts full ; then fill up with vinegar — cider vinegar ; after a day or two pour the vinegar from them, scald it, and to every gallon of vinegar add five pounds of sugar while the vinegar is boiling. Be sure to keep the pickle covered with the vinegar. For each gallon of pickle, three ounces of turmeric, two ounces of white ginger, two ounces of white pepper, quarter of an ounce of mace beaten fine, four ounces of horseradish shredded fine, four ounces of garlic, two ounces of white mustard seed, half an ounce of celery seed, whole. The pickle should have a tight cover at all times, and, during the warm weather, be frequently placed in the sun. Pickled Eed Cabbage. — Cut the red cabbage in thin slices, spread it on a sieve and sprinkle with salt. Let it drain for twenty-four hours, dry it, pack it in pickle jars, fill them with cold vinegar, put in spice to taste, and tie the jars up firmly with bladder. Open the jars in a few days, and if the cabbage has shrunk, fill up with vinegar. Aetichokes Pickled. — Boil the artichokes till you can pull the leaves off ; take out the choke and cut away the stalk, but be careful that the knife does not touch the top; throw them into salt and SAUCES AND PICKLES. 69 water. When they have lain an hour, take them out and drain them ; then put them into glasses or jars, and put a little mace and sliced nutmeg be- tween; fill them with vinegar and spring water, and cover your jars close. Qhekkins.- — ^Steep them in strong brine for a week, then pour it off ; lieat it to the boiling point, and again pour it on the gherkins. In twenty-four hours drain the fruit on a sieve ; put it in wide- mouthed bottles or jars ; fill them up with strong pickling vinegar, boiling hot, bung them down at once and tie them over with bladder. When cold, dip the corks into melted bottle-wax. Spice is usually added to the bottles, or else steeped in the vinegar. To Make Lemon Pickle. — Take some lemons and grate them slightly; cut them down at one end in four places, which fill up with salt ; lay them at the bottom of a jar, and strew over them horse- radish, (shred,) pepper, garlic, bruised ginger, Cay- enne, a little turmeric, or, if preferred, half a spoon- ful of curry powder, and plenty of mustard seed ; then add some more lemons again, and so on with the different ingredients until the lemons are all in the jar. Pour over some strong cold vinegar, as much as will cover the pickle ; tie the jar over with a bladder, and set it in a pan of water. Let it boil slowly until the lemons become tender. The pickles will be fit for use in less than a week, if required. 70 SAUCES AND PICKLES. Tomato Catsup, No. 1. — Scald ripe tomatoes, and remove the skin. Let them stand a day, covered with salt ; strain thoroughly to remove the seeds. To every two quarts of the liquor add three ounces of cloves, two of black pepper, two grated nutmegs, a little Cayenne pepper, and salt. Boil all together for half an hour, then let the mixture cool and settle ; add a pint of the best cider vine- gar ; bottle, cork tightly, and seal. Keep in a cool place. Tomato Catsup, No. 2. — Boil one bushel of ripe tomatoes until perfectly soft; squeeze them through a fine wire sieve, add half a gallon of vinegar, one pint and a half of salt, two ounces of cloves, quarter of a pound of allspice, two ounces of Cayenne pepper, three teaspoonfuls of black pepper, five heads of garlic, skinned and separated. Mix together, and boil three hours ; it should re- duce to one-half. Bottle without straining. Tomato Soy. — To one peck of green tomatoes, sliced thin, add one pint of salt ; stand twenty-four hours, strain, and put on the fire with twelve raw onions, an ounce of black pepper, one ounce of all- spice, quarter of a pound of ground mustard, half a pound of white mustard seed, and a little Cayenne pepper. Cover with vinegar and boil till as thick as a jam, stirring occasionally with a wooden spoon, to prevent burning. Kipe Cucumber Pickle. — Pare them, take out SAUCES AND PICKLES. 71 the seeds, cut in rings an inch thick ; then simmer in weak alum water an hour ; take them out, drain them, and lay them carefully in a jar ; then prepare a syrup of one gallon good vinegar, two cups sugar, one ounce cinnamon, one ounce ginger-root ; pour it hot over your pickles. This is a delightful pickle, and will keep sealed up a long time. Geeen Cucumber Pickle. — Make a brine by putting one pint of rock-salt into a pail of boiling water, and pour it over the cucumbers ; cover tight to keep in the steam, and let them remain all night and part of a day ; make a second brine as above, and let them remain in it the same length of time ; then scald and skim the brine, as it will answer for the third brine, and let them remain in it as above ; then rinse and wipe them dry, and add boiling hot vinegar ; throw in a lump of alum as large as a nut to every pail of pickles, and you will have a fine, hard, and green pickle. Add spices, if you like, and keep the pickles under the vinegar. A brick on the top of the cover, which keeps the pickles under, has a tendency to collect the scum which may arise. Pickled Eggs, No. 1. — Obtain a moderate-sized, wide-mouthed earthen jar, sufficient to hold one dozen eggs ; let the latter be boiled quite hard ; when fully done, place the same, after taking them up, into a pan of cold water. Remove the shells from them, and deposit them carefully in the jar. 72 SAUCES AND PICKLES. Have on the fire a quart (or more, if necessary) of good white wine vinegar, into which introduce one ounce of raw ginger, two or three blades of sweet mace, one ounce of allspice, half an ounce of whole black pepper, and salt, half an ounce of mustard seed, with four cloves of garlic. When it has sim- mered for half an hour take it up, and pour the contents into the jar, taking care to observe that the eggs are wholly covered. When quite cold, stopper it down for use. It will be ready after a month. When cut into quarters, they serve as a garnish, and afford a nice relish to cold meat of any kind. Pickled Eggs, No. 2. — Boil two or three dozen eggs for half an hour, then, after removing the shells, lay them carefully in large-mouthed jars, and pour over them scalding vinegar, well seasoned with whole pepper, allspice, a few races of ginger, and a few cloves of garlic. When cold, they are bunged down close, and in a month are fit for use. Where eggs are plentiful, the above pickle is by no means expensive, and, as an accompaniment to cold meat, it cannot be outrivalled for piquancy and gout. Piccalilli. — Take anything that can be pickled, such as onions, sliced cucumbers, cabbage, mangoes, peppers, squashes, small green tomatoes, cauliflowers, martenoes, celery, green beans, nasturtiums, radish pods, watermelon rinds, small green cucumbers, and Chili peppers. Lay them in salt and water, with SAUCES AND PICKLES. 73 enough turmeric to turn them yellow. Let them stand twenty-four hours, stirring frequently ; then drain, and dry them and put them into the jars. To every quart of vinegar, allow a tablespoonful of mustard seed, one of turmeric, and a handful of whole black pepper, one clove of garlic. Spice to your taste with mace, ginger, cloves, red pepper, and horseradish. Boil all but the mustard seed in a bag in the vinegar. Let the vinegar stand till cold. Boil one dozen eggs quite hard, mash them in enough sweet oil to make a paste ; then stir it in the vinegar, which pour over the pickles. Put one handful of salt in every jar. They should stand three days, well tied up, when they will be fit for use. Picia^ED Walnuts, No. 1. — One hundred wal- nuts, salt and water. To each quart of vinegar allow two ounces of whole black pepper, one ounce of allspice, one ounce of bruised ginger. Procure the walnuts while young, and prick them well with a fork. Prepare a strong brine of salt and water (four pounds of salt to each gallon of water), into which put the walnuts, letting them remain nine days, and changing the brine every third day. Drain them olF, put them on a dish, and place it in the sun until they become perfectly black, which will be in two or three days. Have ready dry jars, into which place the walnuts, and do not quite fill the jars. Boil sufficient vinegar to cover them for ten minutes, with spices in the above proportion, and 74 SAUCES AND PICKLES*. pour it hot over the walnuts, which must be quite covered with the pickle. Tie down with bladder and keep in a dry place. They will be fit for use in a month, and will keep good two or three years. Pickled Walnuts, No. 2. — Take one hundred walnuts, soft enough to allow a needle to pass through them, lay them in water, with a good hand- ful of salt, for two days, then change to fresh water and another handful of salt, for three days, then drain and lay them on some clean straw or a sieve in the sun until quite black and wrinkled ; after- wards put into a clean, dry glass bottle or jar a quar- ter of an ounce of allspice, quarter of an ounce of mace, quarter of an ounce of ginger, half a pint of mustard seed, and half an ounce of pepper-corns ; these to be mixed in layers with the walnuts until your walnuts are all used, then pour over them boil- ing vinegar to cover them. Ready for use in two months. Sweet Peach Pickles. — ^To nine pounds of firm clingstone peaches (peeled) take three pounds of brown sugar and an ounce each of cinnamon bark, cloves, mace, and allspice, and a quart of good vine- gar. Put the sugar, vinegar, and spices in a clean preserving kettle, and let it boil thoroughly. Have the peaches in a large jar, and when the vinegar, sugar, and spices have been skimmed, and while boiling, pour over the peaches. Do this for nine consecutive days, pouring off the liquid every morn- SAUCES AND PICKLES. 75 ing, and boiling again and scalding the peaches. Tie and put in a cool place. Sweet Pickle. — Select fine cantaloupe or citron melons, ripe, but firm, pare and seed them, and slice or quarter them. Weigh the fruit, and to five pounds of melon allow two and a half pounds of white sugar and one quart of vinegar. The vinegar and sugar must be heated, well skimmed, and poured boiling over the fruit six times. In the last boiling of the syrup add the spices — stick cinnamon, white ginger, and a few cloves — and when the syrup boils put in the citron and let it boil for ten minutes, then put it in the jars, skim the syrup clear, and pour over it. Sweet Tomato Pickles. — Chop one peck of green tomatoes, four onions, and six green peppers. Strew over them one cup of salt, and let them stand all night. Next day drain off* the water from them, and add to them one cup of sugar (or more, if liked), one cup of grated horseradish, one table- spoonful of cinnamon, one of cloves, and one of allspice. Cover with vinegar and cook till tender. Geeen Tomato Pickle. — Slice two gallons of green tomatoes, put them into a pan with a layer of salt, and then of tomatoes, with half a dozen of onions sliced, and alternately put with the toma- toes and salt, and let them remain in salt all night. The next morning rinse and drain well. Put them into a kettle with one gallon of strong cider vine- 76 SAUCES AND PICKLES gar, half a gallon of brown sugar, four tablespoon- fuls of mustard, four of ground allspice, four of ground ginger, five of cinnamon, four of cloves, four of black pepper, four of celery seed, half a dozen red or green peppers, sliced fine, two teaspoon- fuls of ground mace, and four tablespoonfuls of olive oil. Let it boil three or four hours, then, if the vinegar is not as strong as it should have been, while the pickles are still warm, add a quart of cold vinegar. This pickle has been considered as good as ‘‘ chow chow,^^ and will keep for years. Tomatoes. — Always use those which are thor- oughly ripe. The small round ones are decidedly the best. Do not prick them, as most receipt books direct. Let them lie in strong brine three or four days, then piit them down in layers in your jars, mixing with them small onions and pieces of horse- radish, then pour on the vinegar (cold), which should be first spiced as for peppers. Let there be a spice bag to throw into every pot. Cover them carefully, and set them by in the cellar for a full month before using. Spiced Tomatoes. — Two pounds of tomatoes, one pound of brown sugar, half a pint of good cider vinegar, one dozen cloves, and two dozen grains of allspice. Put these ingredients into a preserving kettle, and stew them over a slow fire. When they have been in sufficiently long to cook the tomatoes tolerably well take them up and place them on a SAUCES AND PICKLES. 77 dish to cool, but continue slowly boiling the syrup. When the tomatoes become cool put them back into the syrup and boil them until they are of a dark red color ; then take them out again, put them on a dish to cool, and continue boiling the syrup until it is as thick as molasses. When the tomatoes and syrup are both cool put it into jars and tie paper over the mouths. Mixed Pickle. — To each gallon of vinegar allow quarter pound of bruised ginger, quarter pound of mustard, quarter pound of salt, two ounces of mus- tard seed, one and a half ounce of turmeric, one ounce of ground black pepper, quarter ounce of Cayenne, cauliflowers, onions, celery, sliced cucuili- bers, gherkins, French beans, nasturtiums, capsi- cums. Have a large jar, with a tightly fitting lid, in which put as much vinegar as is required, reserving a little to mix the various powders to a smooth paste. Put into a basin the mustard, turmeric, pep- per, and Cayenne. Mix them with vinegar, and stir well until no lumps remain ; add all the ingre- dients to the vinegar, and mix well. Keep this liquor in a warm place, and thoroughly stir every morning for a month with a wooden spoon, when it will be ready for the different vegetables to be added to it. As these come into season have them gath ered on a dry day, and, after merely wiping them with a cloth to free them from moisture, put them into the pickle. The cauliflowers, it may be said, must be divided into small bunches. Put all these 78 SAUCES AND PICKLES. into the pickle raw, and at the end of the season, when there have been added as many of the vegeta- bles as could be procured, store it away in jars, and tie over with bladder. As none of the ingredients are boiled, this pickle will not be fit to eat till tw^elve months have elapsed. Whilst the pickle is being made, keep a wooden spoon tied to the jar ; and its contents, it may be repeated, must be stirred every morning. Cold Catsup. — One half peck of tomatoes, one half gallon of vinegar, half a teacup of salt, half a teacup of mustard seed, ground or broken, four pods of red pepper, cut very fine, one teacup of grated horseradish, two tablespoonfuls of ground pepper, two tablespoonfuls of celery seed. After peeling and mashing up the tomatoes the whole must be well mixed, put into bottles, and corked tightly. It is soon ready for use. Pepper Catsup. — Fifty pods of large red pep- pers, with the seeds. Add a pint of vinegar, and boil until the pulp will mash through a sieve. Add to the pulp a second pint of vinegar, two spoonfuls of sugar, cloves, mace, spice, onions, and salt. Put all in a kettle and boil to a proper consistency. CHAPTER IV. MEATS. Stewed Beef. — A rump of ten pounds weight will require three hours^ stewing. At first, it may be slowly but partly boiled, after which it is to simmer very slowly indeed. Have a saucepan, not over large, for the meat, and, at the bottom, fix two skewers, to prevent the meat touching the pan. Pour over it one pint and a half of cold water at the sides, two or three onions — if not very large — partly in pieces, and on the top put as many carrots as you may wish, cut into good-sized dice. Before dishing the meat, you must thicken the gravy as usual with flour and a little burnt sugar, to make the gravy (of which there should be a good deal) brown. Rump op Beef. — This is one of the most juicy of all the joints of beef, but is more frequently stewed than roasted. As it is generally too large to serve whole, cut as much from the chump end as will make a handsome roast. Manage it as the sirloin. When boned, roll it into the form of a fillet of veal, and bake. Spanish Steak.— Cut some onions very fine 6 79 80 MEATS. and put into a frying pan with plenty of butter, boiling hot. When fried quite tender, push to the back of the pan. Season a tender loin of beef with pepper and salt, put it on the pan, and cook till done. Put the onions over it, and pour in the pan sufficient boiling water to make a rich gravy. Let all stew five minutes, and serve. Beef Stewed with Onions. — Cut some tender beef into small pieces, and season with pepper and salt ; slice some onions and add to it, with water enough in the stewpan to make a gravy. Let it stew slowly till the beef is thoroughly cooked, then add some pieces of butter rolled in flour, enough to make a rich gravy. Cold beef may be cooked in the same way, but the onions must then be cooked before adding them to the meat. Add more water if it dries too fast, but let it be boiling, when poured in. Brisket of Beef Stuffed. — A piece weigh- ing eight pounds requires about five or six hours to boil. Make a dressing of bread crumbs, pepper, salt, sweet herbs, a little mace, and one onion chopped fine and mixed with an egg. Put the dressing between the fat and the lean of the beef, and sew it up tightly ; flour a cloth, pin the beef in it, as closely pressed as possible, and boil five or six hours. Remove the cloth, and press the meat until it is cold. Cut in thin slices, and eat cold. Ex- cellent for sandwiches. A LA MODE Beef. — Prepare a dressing with MEATS. 81 bread or crackers^ moisten with water seasoned with butter^ pepper, salt, nutmeg, cloves, and, if relished, allspice ; add two eggvS, and mix the whole well together. Have ready a round of beef of the proper size for the family ; cut gashes in it, and fill them with the dressing. Bind it together with skewers, and put it in a bake-pan with water enough to cover the bottom of the pan, in which is dissolved a little salt. Baste it three or four times with the salted water while cooking. Let it stew gently. When nearly done, cover it with dressing reserved for the purpose. Heat the lid to the. pan sufficiently hot to brown it, cover and stew until done. It can be stewed in a dripping-pan, in a stove-oven, and browned when done by holding over it, if not already browned, a heated shovel. The dressing should be poured over it half an hour before taking it from the pan. Beef Cutlets. — Cut the inside of a sirloin or rump in slices half an inch thick ; trim them neatly ; melt a little butter in a frying-pan ; season the cut- lets ; fry them lightly ; serve with tomato sauce. Fillet of Beef with Musheooms. — Cut the fillet into slices, and pour over them some melted butter, seasoned with pepper and salt; let them stand for an hour ; then put them in a frying pan over a quick fire, to brown lightly ; take them out, and put in the pan flour enough to thicken and brown, mix smoothly, add some stock, and some 82 MEATS. mushrooms half stewed or parboiled ; put the fillet back and cook all together till done. When ready to serve, squeeze in the juice of a lemon. The gravy should be .smooth and thick. ♦ This dish is good substituting tomatoes for mush- rooms, and may be varied by using wine instead of lemon-juice. Fillet of Beef. — Take the sirloin or second cut of the ribs ; take out the bones with a sharp knife, skewer it round in good shape ; lay the bones in a large saucepan, with two onions, one carrot and a dozen cloves; add the meat, just covered with water. Let it cook slowly two hours; dish the meat ; skim all the fat from the gravy, add some flour mixed with cold water, and two spoonfuls of walnut catsup ; give all one boil. Turn part of the gravy over the meat, and serve the rest in a gravy tureen. English Beef Pie. — Cut cold roast beef, or beefsteak into thin slices, and put a layer in a deep pie dish ; shake in a little flour, pepper and salt ; chop a tomato or an onion very fine, and spread on this. Another layer of beef and seasoning, another onion, and so on, until the dish is filled. Add beef gravy, or dripping, and water sufficient to make a gravy. Mash one dozen large potatoes, with half a teacup of milk or cream, and a little butter and salt. Spread this over the beef as a crust, an inch thick. Brush with beaten egg, and bake half an hour. MEATS. 83 Beefsteak Pie. — Cover the bottom of a deep plate with paste. Cut the beef in pieces convenient for the mouth ; spread them evenly over the paste ; then add butter, flour, pepper, salt and water; cover with paste, press the edges firmly, and cut a gash in the centre of the pie ; it is good cold or hot. If to be used cold, make a gravy by boiling a bit of the bone, seasoning it the same as the pie ; heat the gravy, and serve it with the pie. Potatoes are all the vegetables needed — they should be mashed. These pies can be made from cold beefsteak left the day before, but are not quite as good. Beefsteak Pudding. — Prepare a good suet crust, and line a cake tin with it ; put in layers of raw steak, with onions, tomatoes and mushrooms, chopped fine, a seasoning of pepper, salt and Cayenne, and half a cup of cold water. Cover with crust, and bake two hours. Serve very hot. Beefsteak Smotheeed with Onions. — Cut up six onions very fine ; put them into a saucepan with two cupfuls of hot water, about two ounces of good butter, some pepper and salt; dredge in a little flour. Let it stew until the onions are quite soft ; then have the steak broiled ; put it into the saucepan with the onions ; let it simmer about ten minutes, and send to the table very hot. Minced Beef. — Take the lean of some cold roast beef. Chop it very fine, adding a small 84 MEATS. minced onion ; and season it with pepper and salt. Put it into a stewpan, with some of the gravy that has been left from the day before, and let it stew for a quarter of an hour. Then put it (two-thirds full) into a deep dish. Fill up the dish with mashed potatoes, heaped high in the centre, smoothed on the surface, and browned with a salamander or a red- hot shovel. Beef Balls. — Mince very finely a piece of tender beef, fat and lean; mince an onion, with some boiled parsley; add grated bread crumbs, and season with pepper, salt, grated nutmeg, and lemon peel ; mix all together, and moisten with a well- beaten egg ; roll into balls ; flour, and fry them in boiling beef dripping. Serve with fried bread crumbs, or a thickened beef gravy. Mock Venison of Coened Beef. — Cut the beef in thin slices, and freshen by soaking for three or four hours in tepid water. When sufficiently fresh, lay the slices on a gridiron, and heat through quickly. Make a gravy of drawn butter ; add a little pepper, and the yelk of an egg chopped fine, and pour over the meat ; or butter, pepper and salt, like beefsteak. This will be found a savory dish when only salt meat can be procured, but is better with fresh beef. Hash Balls of Coened Beef. — Prepare the hash by mincing with potatoes ; make it into flat MEATS. 85 cakes ; heat the griddle^ and grease it with plenty of sweet butter; brown the balls first on one. side, and then on the other, and serve hot. Yobkshiee Pudding, with Eoast Beef. — Five tablespoonfuls of flour mixed with one of salt, one pint of milk, and three well-beaten eggs. Butter a square pan, and put the batter in it ; set it in the oven until it rises and is slightly crusted on top; then place it under your beef roasting before the fire, or in the oven, and baste it as you do your meat. CoENED Beef, Boiled. — ^Wash it thoroughly, and put it in a pot that will hold plenty of water. The water should boil when the beef is put in, and great care should be taken to skim it often. Half an hour for every pound of meat is sufficient time. Corn beef, to be tender and juicy, should boil very gently and long. If it is to be eaten cold, take it from the pot when boiled, and lay it in an earthen dish or pan, with a piece of board upon it, the size of the meat. Upon this put a heavy stone or couple of flat irons. It greatly improves salt meat to press it. CoENED Beef Hash. — The best hash is made from boiled corned beef. It should be boiled very tender, and chopped fine when entirely cold. The potatoes for hash made of corned beef are the better for being boiled in the pot liquor. When taken from the pot, remove the skins from the potatoes, and when cold chop them fine. To a cup of 86 MEATS. chopped meat allow four of chopped potatoes ; stir the potatoes gradually into the meat^ until the whole is mixed. Do this at evenings and^ if warm^ set the hash in a cool place. In the morning put the pan on the fire with a lump of butter as large as the bowl of a tablespoon | add a dust of pepper^ and if not sufficiently salt^ add a little • usually none is needed. When the butter has melted^ put the hash in the pan • add four tablespoons of water^ and stir the whole together. After it has become really hot^ stir it from the bottom, cover a plate over it, and set the pan where it will merely stew. This is a moist hash, and preferred by some to dry or browned hash. Pickling Beef. — ^Eub a quarter of a pound of saltpetre and a little brown sugar on the beef ; the following day season it with half a pound of bay salt, one ounce of black pepper, one ounce of allspice. Let the beef lie in pickle fourteen days, turning it every day, adding a little common salt three times per week ; then wash it, and put it into a glazed earthen pipkin, deep enough to cover it. Lay beef suet under it; add one pint of water, cover the top with paste and then paper, or with a plate instead of paste. Bake seven hours in an oven ; pour off the liquor, but do not cut till cold. Will keep three months. Potted Ox-Tongue. — Broil tender and un- smoked tongue of good flavor, and the following MEATS. 87 day cut from it the quantity desired for potting, or take for this purpose the remains of one which has already been served at table. Trim off the skin and rind, weigh the meat, mince it very small, then pound it as fine as possible, with four ounces of but- ter to each pound of tongue, a small teaspoonful of mace, half as much of nutmeg or cloves, and a tolerably high seasoning of Cayenne. After the spices are well beaten with the meat, taste it, and add more if required. A few ounces of any well- roasted meat mixed with the tongue, will give it firmness. The breasts of turkeys, fowls, partridges, or pheasants may be used for this purpose with good effect. Tongue Toast. — Take cold tongue that has been well boiled, mince it fine, mix it with cream, or a little milk, if there is no cream at hand ; add the beaten yelk of an egg, and give it a simmer over the fire. Toast nicely some thin slices of stale bread, and having buttered them, lay them in a fiat dish that has been heated before the fire ; then cover each slice with the tongue mixture, which should be kept quite hot, and serve up imme- diately. Tongue, after it has been boiled, cut into thick slices, and stewed in a rich, brown gravy, makes a very nice corner-dish. Spiced Teipe. — Take fresh tripe, cut it up in pieces four or five inches square ; take an earthen 88 MEATS. jar, put in a layer of tripe, then sprinkle a few cloves, allspice, and peppers (whole) over it; then another layer of tripe, then spice, and so on till the jar is full ; take good vinegar, scald it, pour over it, filling the jar full ; cover it up and stand it away in a cool place for a few days, until it tastes of the spice, then serve it up cold for supper or any other meal. It is an excellent relish. Potted Beef. — Salt three pounds of lean beef, with half a pound of salt, and half an ouno^ of salt- petre. Let it stand three days. Divide it into pieces weighing a pound each, and put it in an earthen pan of just sufficient si^e to contain it; pour over it half a pint of water, cover it close with paste, and set it in a slow oven for four hours. When taken from the oven, pour the gravy into a basin, shred the meat fine, moisten %it with the gravy poured from the meat, and pound it thor- oughly in a marble mortar, with fresh butter, until it becomes a fine paste ; season it with black pepper and allspice, ground cloves, or grated nutmeg ; put it in pots, press it down as closely as possible, put a weight on it, and let it stand all night ; next day, cover it a quarter of an inch thick with clarified butter, and tie paper over it. Bubble and Squeak. — Take from a round of cold, boiled beef, one pound and a half of meat cut in thin slices, two carrots which have been boiled with the meat, cold, and the hearts of two boiled MEATS. 89 greens, cold. Cut the meat into small squares, and chop the vegetables together ; pepper and salt the whole, and fry in a pan with a quarter of a pound of sweet butter. When fully cooked, toss into the pan half a gill of catsup, and serve, with mashed potatoes. Beef Cakes, No. 1. — Pound some beef that is under-done with a little fat bacon or ham ; season with pepper, salt, and a little shallot or garlic ; mix them well, and make into small cakes three inches long, and half as wide and thick ; fry them a light brown, and serve them in a good thick gravy. Beef Cakes, No. 2. — Take the best sirloin of beef, one pound; boil it until soft; boil also a beef tongue until soft. Take one pound of tongue, chop it and the sirloin very fine, with quarter of a pound of suet, and quarter of a pound of raisins. After you have made them as fine as you can, add pepper and salt to taste, also one teaspoonful of cloves, one teaspoonful of allspice, one onion chopped fine, one tablespoonful of flour. Mix all well together, form into cakes, and fry in butter. Beef Ceoquettes. — Mince some dressed beef very fine ; melt a piece of butter in a stewpan, add three or four onions chopped fine, and fried a light brown ; add a spoonful of flour, and moisten with gravy or stock, season with pepper, salt, nutmeg and chopped parsley. When the sauce is cooked. 90 MEATS. put in the minced beef, stew ten minutes, or till the sauce is dry, form the meat into balls, dip each into beaten white of egg. Have some lard and butter hot, but not boiling or the balls will break. Put each ball gently into the frying-pan, shaking a little flour over them ; roll them about gently in the pan, to brown evenly, and when a good color, drain and serve on dressed parsley. To Poll Loin of Mutton. — Hang the mutton till tender, bone it, and lay a seasoning of pepper, allspice, mace, nutmeg, and a few cloves, all in fine powder over it. Next day prepare a stuffing; beat the meat, and cover it with the stuffing ; roll it up tight and tie it. Half bake it in a slow oven ; let it grow cold ; take off the fat, and put the gravy into a stewpan ; flour the meat, and put it in like- wise ; stew it till almost ready ; and add a glass of port-wine, some catsup, and a little lemon pickle half an hour before serving ; serve it in the gravy, with jelly sauce. Panned Mutton. — Eemove all the fat from mutton cutlets, and trim neatly. Set them in melted butter, luke-warm, with pepper and salt. Dip each into beaten yelk of egg, and afterwards in grated bread crumbs. Repeat the dipping till the cutlets are well covered with crumbs. Broil on a gridiron over a clear fire for ten minutes. Serve plain or with sauce, as preferred. Mutton Cutlets. — The most economical way MEATS. 91 of proceeding is to purchase a piece of the best end of a neck of mutton and divide and trim your chops at home. Every particle of gristle and almost all the fat should be removed from each cutlet, the bone or rib should not be more than two inches long, from the cutlet itself or ^^nut,^^ and it should be scraped quite clean. Saw the bone at the end, as it looks badly chopped. Cut the meat about one-third of an inch thick, prepare neatly, and beat gently with the flat side of a meat chopper ; *you may cook them plain or crumbed. The plain process consists in broiling them on the gridiron over or in front of a clear fire. The fire should be a brisk one, and the cutlets should be turned quickly and frequently while cooking. They should be thoroughly cooked, but not kept cooking till hard and tough. Plain cutlets may also be fried in butter and lard. Crumbed cutlets require more trouble to prepare. The streak of meat with the fat and gristle which adheres to the bone need not be cut off, but detatched from the bone, and turned up on the side of the nut.^^ Smear the cutlet thickly with well beaten egg, and dip several times in bread crumbs till thickly covered. Fry iii butter and lard. Cutlets may be served in a plain, clear gravy, or with tomato or mushroom sauce. Mutton cutlets may also be stewed in a variety of ways, of which the following may be taken as 92 MEATS. the common form : Put some butter in a stewpan, and place your cutlets in this^ turning them over and over until they are well saides (seized) by the butter ; then add a small quantity of well-flavored stock or gravy, and let them simmer in this till done, when they are served with the gravy, which you thicken, if necessary, with a little flour, over them. Vegetables may be cooked with the cutlets, and served with them, or a garniture of vegetables, cooked separately, can be put round the dish. Muttok Cutlets a la Bene. — Take six chops from the best end of a neck of mutton, and after sawing off* the ends, braise them until they are tender. Put them aside to cool. Make a thick, rich onion sauce, season it well, and run it through a sieve ; then take the braised chops, when they are perfectly cold, and cut them into cutlets, and trim them into a proper shape. Dip each cutlet into the onion sauce, then into bread crumbs, and afterwards into egg and bread crumbs. Pry them in boiling lard, a light brown color ; drain them well, and serve with or without tomato sauce. Shoulder of Mutton. — A shoulder of mutton weighing six pounds requires one hour and thirty minutes to roast ; if stuffed, fifteen minutes longer. Before cooking, take out all the bone and fill the space with a dressing of bread crumbs, pepper, salt, parsley, sweet marjoram, one egg and a small piece of butter, all well mixed. MEATS. 93 Mutton peepaeed like Venison. — Choose a large leg of mutton^ and let it hang in a cool place ten days. Prepare a good forcemeat^ and make a deep slit near the bone at the fillet end. Put in the forcemeat and sew over it a piece of linen to keep it in. Eoast for two hours and thirty minutes. Make a gravy with the shank bone^ one pound of soup beef^ one onion^ a few whole peppers^ salt^ and a pint and a half of water. Let this simmer for two hours. Add a dessertspoonful of flour to thicken it; a little burnt sugar^ if not dark enough in color^ and more seasoning if necessary. When the meat is done^ remove the linen cloth^ strain part of the gravy over it^ and serve. The remainder of the gravy should be served in a gravy-boat. Currant jelly should always be served with this dish. Saddle of Mutton, a la Poetuouese. — To make this dish to look well, the saddle should be so carved as to have the sides left. When cold, the fillet, or undercut, and surplus meat is to be removed and cut small, and placed in a stewpan, with a little thickened gravy, mushroom catsup, pepper and salt. It should not be allowed to boil, but when hot should be placed on the saddle in the space from which the meat has been cut, and sprinkled over with bread crumbs. It must be ^ levelled to the sides, and placed in the oven. If the bread crumbs are not brown enough, a sala- mander must be made hot, and placed over it; it should be served very hot with currant jelly. 94 MEATS. COLD MUTTOlSr, There are not many people who object to eating cold beef^ but there seems to be a popular prejudice against cold mutton. As far as looks go^ when two or three persons have dined off a leg of mutton the day before^ no amount of parsley^ be it ever so curly and fresh, can make it look nice ; but as a matter of taste cold meat, be it beef or mutton, is by no means devoid of merit at certain seasons, and with a proper accompaniment of salads, pickles, and sauces. Only to be perfect a cold joint should not be touched until it is cold ; the joint of yesterday^s dinner is quite a different affair. It is not every- body who can indulge, however, in such niceties of taste. Given a leg of mutton it must be used, and made to go as far as possible to furnish the second and even the third day^s dinner. If you wish to be very economical with a leg of mutton you should carve it pretty much as you do a ham, then the next day put it for twenty minutes into a vessel containing boiling water, take it out and sprinkle some salt and a little flour over it, and put it to roast for twenty minutes before a good fire, basting frequently with some dripping, melted for the purpose. The result will be a very fair second edition of roast leg of mutton. Some, however, may object to carving mutton after the fashion of ham, and in that case a hash or a mince are the only ways of turning cold mutton to account ; but there MEATS. 95 are many ways of hashing mutton and other meats, and of mincing them, too. The great desideratum of a second-hand dish, so to speak, is that it should not taste as such. Noth- ing is more abominable than the bad taste which is so prominent in the attempts at warming up cold meat, which your plain cook is pleased to call minced veal, hashed mutton, etc. The only means to avoid that taste is to remove carefully from the cold meat you are going to use every part that has seen the fire, as well as gristle and fat. Let every slice be carefully trimmed, and let them all be as near as possible similar in size and shape; then make your hash, and^ even if you are not an expert at combining sauces and spices, at any rate it will not have a warmed-up taste. The following are various formulas for warming up mutton and other meats : Cut an onion in slices and fry it in butter till it assumes a deep brown color, then put in a table- spoonful of floor, and when it is well amalgamated with the butter add a little less than half a pint of stock broth, or even water previously warmed. Stir a few minutes on the fire, and then proceed to flavor your sauce with walnut or mushroom catsup, tomato sauce, spices, and pepper and salt, in such propor- tions as taste may suggest and practice will teach. A little burnt onion browning may be put in if the sauce is not of a sufficiently deep color. When the flavoring is completed, strain the sauce through a 7 96 MEATS. fine colander into a saucepan and place in it your slices of meat. Keep the saucepan at a moderate heat till it is time to serve, and send up your hash with a garland of bread sippets fried in butter round it. The longer the meat lies in the sauce the better will your dish be. Proceed as in the above receipt as far as the butter, fiour, and onions are concerned; then add to your sauce a moderate allowance of mustard ; then add the stock and a wineglassful of white or red wine. Season with catsup, spices, pepper, and salt. Strain and put in the meat, serving with pickles or not, according to taste. Beef and pork are best warmed up in this way. A homely mode of warming cold meat is in this wise : Fry some slices of onion in butter, and when they begin to take color put in your slices of meat, pepper, salt, and a sprinkling of flour. Keep on frying till the onions are thoroughly done and the meat warmed, then add a small quantity of stock, broth, or water, with a small quantity of vinegar, and serve. Minced parsley may be added to any of the above dishes with advantage. If the state of the joint you have to work upon will allow it, cut your slices the thickness of your finger, trim them all nicely, as near as possible the same shape, then dip them in egg, and cover them with a mixture of bread crumbs, powdered, sweet herbs, pepper, and salt in due proportion. Let them MEATS. 97 rest a couple of hours^ and egg and bread crumb them again ; then fry them in plenty of lard till they are a nice color. Serve either alone with fried parsley as an ornament, or with any sauce, such as tomato, etc., which taste may suggest. Cold veal or pork treated in this way makes a very toothsome dish. Of course it is necessary to carry out these warm- ings-up, that the cold joint should not have been too heavily punished when it first appeared on the dinner table. When a joint has not enough left upon it to cut nice slices, then mincing is the best way to utilize it. Minced Mutton. — This is a very useful prepa- ration of cold mutton,^^ and will be found an ex- cellent mode. Cut slices olf a cold roasted leg of mutton and mince it very fine ; brown some flour in butter, and moisten it with some gravy ; add salt and pepper to taste, and let it simmer about ten or fifteen minntes to take off the raw taste of the flour ; add another lot of butter and some parsley chopped fine, then add the minced meat, and let it simmer slowly, but not to boil, or the meat will be hard. Baked Minced Mutton. — The remains of any joint of cold roast mutton, one or two onions, one bunch of savory herbs, pepper and salt to taste, two blades of pounded mace or nutmeg, one teacupful of gravy, mashed potatoes. Mince an onion rather fine, and fry it a light-brown color ; add the herbs and mutton, both of which should be also finely 98 MEATS. minced and well mixed ; season with pepper and salt, and a little pounded mace or nutmeg, and moisten with the above proportion of gravy. Put a layer of mashed potatoes at the bottom of a dish, then the mutton, and then another layer of potatoes, and bake for about half an hour. If there should be a large quantity of meat, use two onions instead of one. Beowned Mikced Mutton. — Cut some lean meat from a roast leg of mutton, chop it fine, season it with pepper and salt, chopped parsley, and a little onion ; mix all together with a quarter of a pound of grated bread, moisten with a tablespoonful of vine- gar and a cup of good gravy; when put into the dish lay an ounce of butter in small bits on the top, grate bread over it, and add a little more butter; brown before the fire. HOW TO COOK LAMB. To Boast Lamb. — The hind quarter of lamb usually weighs from seven to ten pounds ; this size will take about two hours to roast it. Have a brisk fire. It must be very frequently basted while roast- ing, and sprinkled with a little salt, and dredged all over with fiour, about half an hour before it is done. Poke Quaeter of Lamb. — A fore quarter of a lamb is cooked the same way, but takes rather less time, if the same weight, than the hind quarter; MEATS. 99 because it is a thinner joint; one of nine pounds ought to be allowed two hours. Leg op Lamb. — leg of lamb of four pounds^ weight will take about an hour and a quarter ; if five pounds, nearly one hour and a half ; a shoulder of four pounds will be roasted in an hour, or a very few minutes over. Eibs op Lamb.— Eibs of lamb are thin, anrl require great care to do gently at first, and brisker as it is finishing ; sprinkle it with a little salt, and dredge it slightly with fiiour, about twenty minutes before it is done. It will take an hour or longer, according to thickness. Gabotsh and Vegetables por Roast Lamb. — All joints of roast lamb may be garnished with double parsley, and served up with either asparagus and new potatoes, spring spinach and new potatoes, green peas and new potatoes, or with cauliflowers or French beans and potatoes; and never forget to send up mint sauce. The following will be found an excellent receipt for mint sauce : With three heaped tablespoonfuls of finely-chopped young mint, mix two of pounded and sifted sugar, and six of the best vinegar; stir it until the sugar is dissolved. To Stew a Breast op Lamb.— Cut it into pieces, season them with pepper and salt, and stew them in weak gravy; when tender, thicken the sauce, and add a glass of white wine. Cucumbers, sliced and stewed in gravy, may be served with the 100 MEATS. lamb, the same being poured over it. Or, the lamb may be served in a dish of stewed mushrooms. To Boil a Neck or Breast of Lamb.— These are small, delicate joints, and therefore suited only for a very small family. The neck must be washed in warm water, and all the blood carefully cleaned away. Either of these joints should be put into cold water, well skimmed, and very gently boiled till done. Half an hour will be about sufficient for either of them, reckoning from the time they come to a boil. Lamb Chops. — Take a loin of lamb, cut chops from it half an inch thick, retaining the kidney in its place ; dip them into egg and bread crumbs, fry and serve with fried parsley. When chops are made from a breast of lamb, the red bone at the edge of the breast should be cut off, and the breast parboiled in water or broth, with a sliced carrot and two or three onions, before it is divided into cutlets, which is done by cutting between every second or third bone, and preparing them, in every respect, as the last. If house-lamb steaks are to be done white — stew them in milk and water till very tender, with a bit of lemon-peel, a little salt, some pepper and mace. Have ready some veal gravy, and put the steaks into it ; mix some mushroom- powder, a cup of cream, and the least bit of flour; shake the steaks in this liquor, stir it, and let it get MEATS. 101 quite hot^ but not boil. Just before you take it up, put in a few white mushrooms. Lamb Cutlets and Spinach. — Eight cutlets, egg and bread crumbs, salt and pepper to taste, a little clarified butter. Take the cutlets from a neck of lamb, and shape them by cutting off the thick part of the chine-bone. Trim off most of the fat and all the skin, and scrape the top part of the bones quite clean. Brush the cutlets over with egg, sprinkle them with bread crumbs, and season with pepper and salt. Now dip them into clarified but- ter, sprinkle over a few more bread crumbs, and fry them over a sharp fire, turning them when re- quired. Lay them before the fire to drain, and arrange them on a dish with spinach in the centre, which should be previously well boiled, drained, chopped, and seasoned. Peas, asparagus, or beans may be substituted for the spinach. Loin, Neck, and Breast op Lamb. — A loin of lamb will be roasted in about an hour and a quarter ; a neck in an hour ; and a breast in three- quarters of an hour. Do not forget to salt and flour these joints about twenty minutes before they are done. Broiled Lamb Steak. — Broil slowly until quite done, then make a gravy with fresh butter melted by the steak, add a dust of pepper, and a little salt dissolved in a tablespoonful of water; serve with peas, potatoes, and salads. 102 MEATS. Leg of Lamb to Boil. — It must be put into boiling water, then the saucepan (or deep fish-kettle with a drainer is best) drawn back, and the water allowed to simmer gently, reckoning eighteen minutes to each pound ; if it boils fast, the meat will be hard and the skin broken. It should be lifted out of the water with the drainer, and no fork be stuck into it ; if the scum has settled upon it, wash it off with some of the liquor before sending to table. Parsley and butter are served with this, or delicate caper sauce and young carrots. Leg of Lamb to Roast. — All lamb should be very well cooked, and not put too near the fire at first ; from eighteen to twenty minutes to the pound before a clear but not fierce heat. It may be served with spinach, peas, or asparagus. Boned Quarter op Lamb. — Bone a quarter of lamb, taking care not to injure the skin. Make a seasoning in the following manner : Cut three onions and fry them in lard ; when these are nearly done, add some parsley, chopped very fine, spice, two spoonfuls of cream, and four eggs. Simmer this mixture over the fire until quite thick, then stuff it into the meat in the spaces left by the bones, roll the meat up and roast it, basting with bread crumbs and butter. Serve with a rich sauce. Fricassee op Lamb. — Cut the best part of a breast of lamb into square pieces of two inches each; wash, dry, and flour them. Boil together MEATS. 103 four ounces of butter, one of fat bacon, some pars- ley or sweet marjoram for ten minutes, and then add the meat; squeeze in the juice of half a lemon; chop an onion with pepper and salt and throw in. Simmer all .for two hours; add the yelks of two eggs well beaten, shake over the fire two minutes, and serve. Savoey Lamb Pie. — Cut the meat into pieces, and season it with finely-beaten pepper, salt, mace, cloves, and nutmeg. Make a good puff-paste, and put the meat into it, adding some lambs^ sweet- breads, seasoned in the same manner. Put in some oysters and forcemeat balls, some yelk of egg, and tops of asparagus, boiled green. Put butter all over the pie, and put on the covering paste, and let it bake for an hour and a half in a quick oven. Mix a pint of gravy, the oyster liquor, a gill of wine, and a little nutmeg, with the yelks of two or three eggs well beaten, and stir it in the same direc- tion all the time. When it boils, take the cover off the pie, pour the mixture into it. Cover again and serve. Stewed Beeast of Lamb, with Peas oe Cu- CUMBEES. — First roast the lamb to a nice brown color. Mix a tablespoonful of flour smoothly in cold water, burn a teaspoonful of sugar in an iron spoon, pour boiling water over it into the flour, mix all smoothly ; strain it ; add as much boiling water as will barely cover the meat, putting it into 104 MEATS. a stewpaii with the bones upwards, add a blade of mace, and a little salt ; let it stew for two hours, till the meat is very tender and the bones will slip ; while the meat is cooking boil some peas, or, in their place, peel some small cucumbers, put them into boiling water, with a little salt and a small piece of butter, and boil for twenty minutes; drain them. When the meat is ready, thicken the gravy if neces- sary; add a little butter and a tablespoonful of catsup, place the meat on a dish, bones downward, strain the gravy over it. Drain the peas, or cut the cucumbers across in three pieces and place round the meat. Stewed Leg of Lamb. — Dredge the joint with flour, and put it in a stewpan with half a pound of butter, some parsley, pepper, and salt. Stew gently for half an hour. Choose some small, sound heads of lettuce and cut in small pieces ; put them in a stewpan with a little sorrel, and stew with the mut- ton for another hour. Dish the joint, and add to the liquor in the stewpan half a pint of water. Boil up, pour over the meat, and serve. La]\ib Sweet-beeads.— Blanch them, and put them into cold water. Soak five minutes ; put them into a stewpan with a ladleful of broth, some pep- per and salt, a small bunch of button onions, and a blade of mace ; stir in a piece of butter braided in flour, and stew for half an hour. Have ready the yelks of three eggs well beaten in cream, with MEATS. 105 a little minced parsley and grated nutmeg. Add some boiled asparagus tops. After the cream is in, simmer, but do not boil, as it would curdle. French beans or peas, if very tender, are an im- provement. Larded Lamb. — Lard the upper side of a fore quarter of lamb with lean bacon, and cover the lower side thickly with grated bread. Cover the whole with paper to prevent burning, and roast it. Take it from the fire when nearly done, and cover the lower side once more with grated bread ; season it with salt, pepper, and finely-chopped parsley; put it before a brisk, clear fire to brown. Pour over all a little cider vinegar, and serve. Chops, with Cucumbers. — Fry the chops of a light brown, and stew them for half an hour in good gravy ; thicken and fiavor the gravy, and add to it some cucumbers, thickly sliced and previously stewed. Boil them up together, and put the cucum- bers on the dish, and the chops on them. To Dress Kidneys. — Cut them through the centre ; take out the core ; pull the kernels apart ; put them into the saucepan without any water, and set them on the fire where they may get hot, not boil; in half an hour put the kidneys into cold water, wash them clean, and put them back into the saucepan, with just enough water to cover them ; boil them one hour, then take them up ; clean off* the fat and skin ; put into the frying-pan some 106 MEATS. butter, pepper and salt; dredge in a little flour, half a pint of hot water, and the kidneys ; let them simmer twenty minutes ; stir them often ; do not let them fry, because it hardens them. This is a very nice dish for breakfast. Feied Sheep Kidneys. — Cut the kidneys open without quite dividing them, remove the skin, and put a small piece of butter in the frying-pan. When the butter is melted, lay in the kidneys the flat side downwards, and fry them for seven or eight minutes, turning them when they are half done. Serve on a piece of dry toast, season with pepper and salt, and put a small piece of butter in each kidney; pour the gravy from the pan over them, and serve very hot. Mutton Kidneys Broiled. — ^Skin and split without parting asunder ; skewer them through the outer edge and keep them flat ; lay the opened sides first to the fire, which should be clear and brisk ; in ten minutes turn them ; sprinkle with salt and Cayenne, and when done, which will be in three minutes afterwards, take them from the fire, put a piece of butter inside them, squeeze some lemon- juice over them, and serve as hot as possible. Kidney Omelette. — Eemove all the fat and skin from six kidneys. Cut into very fine pieces, season with salt and pepper, and fry quickly in butter. Beat together two dozen eggs with a wine- gla^ of wine. Heat quarter of a pound of butter MEATS. 107 in a frying-pan, pour in the eggs, and just before they are set, put the kidneys in the middle. Turn over the ends of the omelette, and brown on top, before a clear fire, and serve, with thin slices of lemon on the edge of the dish. Kidneys a la Brochette —Eemove the thin skin from the outside of the kidneys. Split in two, without entirely separating the halves. Lay flat with a little skewer passed through each to keep the halves apart. Powder with salt and pepper, put them on a gridiron, with the inner side of the kidneys next the fire. When one side is brown, turn them, and when the outside is done, the edges will turn up to form a cup ; fill this with a little cold butter beaten with minced herbs ; squeeze in a little lemon-juice, and serve, Eoast Veal,— Season a breast of veal with pepper and salt ; skewer the sweet-bread firmly in its place, flour the meat and roast it slowly before a moderate fire for about four hours^ — it should be of a fine brown, but not dry ; baste it with butter. When done, put the gravy in a stewpan, add a piece of butter rolled in browned flour, and if there should not be quite enough gravy, add a little more water, with pepper and salt to taste. The gravy should be brown. Spiced Ye AL.—Cut the thick portion of a loin of veal into small pieces, and cover it with hot spiced vinegar. To every half pint of vinegar put 108 MEATS. a teaspoonful of allspice, a little mace, salt and Cayenne pepper to taste. Stew till the meat is tender, adding more vinegar if it dries too fast. CuEKY OF Veal. — Cut part of a breast of veal in moderate sized pieces ; put it in a stewpan with an onion and a shalot sliced fine, a slice of lemon, one ounce of butter, a little parsley and thyme, and a tablespoonful of curry-powder mixed with the same quantity of flour ; let the whole sweat together until the meat is slightly brown; add sufficient broth or water for the sauce ; let it boil gently till the veal is done ; strain the sauce through a sieve, pour it over the veal quite hot, and serve with rice in a separate dish. Fkicassee op Veal. — Cut in bits lean veal, and parboil in salted water. Drain off the water, dust the veal with flour, and brown in butter ; add sufficient of the broth for the gravy to the browned butter, and thicken very little with flour. Toast bread, lay the slices on the platter, lay on each slice a part of the veal, and pour the gravy over the whole. Serve with mashed potatoes. Veal Cutlets with Sweet Heebs. — Chop all sorts of sweet herbs, mushrooms, onions, pepper and salt, with a spoonful of butter ; dip the cutlets in this, and reduce the sauce to make it stick; do them over with egg and bread crumbs, and set them in the oven to bake; then add a glass of white wine to the sauce, skim it well, and when the cutlets are MEATS. 109 (lone lay them on a dish^ and send them to table with the sauce poured over, Calebs Head.- — Split the head in two parts^ and remove the brains^ wash the brains in three waters, and lay them for an hour in cold salted water. Wash the head clean, and soak it in tepid water, until the blood is well drawn out. Put it in cold water ; when it boils remove the scum, and simmer gently, until a stfaw can be run through it, A head with the skin will take three hours, if large, and without the skin two. Scald the brains, by pouring over them boiling water, take them out and remove the skin or film, put them in plenty of cold water, and simmer gently fifteen minutes. Chop them slightly, stew them in sweet butter; add a teaspoon half full of lemon-juice, or not, as desired, and a little salt ; when done, skin the tongue, lay it in the centre of the dish, and the brains round it. Send the head to the table very hot, with drawn butter poured over it, and more in the tureen. Veal Chops, Beeaded.^ — Take six or seven handsomely cut chops, season them with salt and pepper, and put them into melted butter. When sufficiently soaked put them into beaten eggs, take them out, and roll each separately in bread crumbs; make the chops as round as you can with your hand, and lay them in a dish. When all are breaded, broil them slowly over a moderate fire, that the bread may not be too highly colored. Serve with clear gravy. 110 MEATS. Yeal Cutlets^ with Eagout.— Cut some large cutlets from the fillet, beat them flat, and lard them ; strew over them pepper, salt, bread crumbs, and shred parsley ; then make a ragout of veal sweet- breads and mushrooms ; fry the cutlets of a nice brown in melted butter ; lay them in a dish, and serve the ragout ^ery hot over them. Fillet of Yeal, Boiled. — Choose a small, delicate fillet for this purpose ; prepare as for roasting, or stuff with an oyster forcemeat ; bind round with a tape ; cover it with milk and water in equal quantities, and let it boil very gently for four hours, keeping it carefully skimmed. Send it to the table with a rich white sauce, or, if stuffed with oyster forcemeat, with oyster sauce ; garnish with stewed celery, and slices of bacon. Breast of Yeal, with Oyster Sauce. — Eub the veal all over with salt and pepper. Cover it with buttered paper and then with coarse paste, baste frequently, to prevent the paper and paste from burning ; half an hour before serving, remove the paste and .paper. Beat the white of an egg, add a very little loaf sugar, and wet the veal with the egg and sugar, without leaving any lumps of the glazing, and brown it nicely. Prepare drawn butter with oysters, and serve the sauce in a tureen. This sauce can be used with roast or boiled veal, to good advantage, if oysters are plenty. Serve with mashed potatoes and celery. MEATS. Ill Shoulder of Yeal. — Cut the veal into small, square pieces, and parboil them. Put the bones and trimmings into another pot, with a very little water, and stew them slowly, to make the gravy. Put the meat into a pie-dish, (deep) and season it with salt, Cayenne, the yellow rind of a large lemon grated, and some powdered mace or nutmeg. Add pieces of butter rolled in flour, or cold dripping of roast veal. Strain the gravy over the meat. Set in a hot oven, and bake brown. When nearly done, throw in a glass of wine, and serve hot. Hashed Calf’s Head. — Calf’s head, one egg, a teaspoonful of flour, a grating of nutmeg, three tablespoonfuls of milk, some slices of bacon, a dozen forcemeat balls, pepper, salt, mace, an onion, bunch of herbs, one wineglassful of port wine, eight mush- rooms, pint of gravy, lard. Carefully cleanse the head of a freshly killed calf, boil it three-quarters of an hour, let it stand till cold, then slice it up into nice looking pieces. Peel the tongue and cut it into thin slices ; boil the brain in a cloth, chop it fine, and beat it up with the egg, flour; milk, and nut- meg. Have ready a frying-pan of boiling lard, and fry the mixture in fritters the size of a crown piece. Flavor the gravy with the whole pepper, mace, cloves, herbs, onion, and Cayenne pepper. Let it simmer ten minutes, strain, and add the wine and mushrooms. Place the sliced head in this, and let it heat gently for ten minutes. Serve in the centre 8 112 MEATS. of the dish with the brain fritters, bacon, forcemeat balls, round. Strew little egg balls over the whole. Collared Calf’s Head. — Boil half a calf’s head in just enough water to cover it. Let it boil for two hours. Remove it from the broth and cut all the meat from the bones. Return the bones again to the broth and let them continue to stew. Put into the broth some sage leaves ; take out the brains and put the meat into a jar with some slices of ham, pepper, and salt, and the tongue. Set the jar in a good oven for two hours ; let it be closely covered. Beat up the brains with two eggs and pour them in. Remove the whole to a mould, and fill it with strained broth. Dish when quite cold. Tea Pie of Veal. — The scrag, breast, or neck of veal will be suitable for this dish. Cut the meat into slices about an inch thick, fry some slices of salt pork in an iron pot, flour the slices of veal, put them in the hot fat, and brown them ; cover them with water, and simmer half an hour. Season with salt and pepper, and dredge with flour. Make a common paste, roll half an inch thick,. and cover the meat. Cover the pot with a hot iron cover ; cook gently for an hour. Veal Pot-Pie. — Cut any piece of veal into small pieces; wash and season it with pepper and salt. Line the sides of an iron pot wdth common paste. Put in the veal with some pieces of paste rolled thin and cut in squares, some pieces of butter rolled in MEATS. 113 flour, and as much water as will cover all. Cover with a sheet of paste, cutting a hole in the centre, put the lid on the pot, and cook slowly for two hours. Place the soft crust on a dish, put the meat on that, and on the top lay the hard crust with the brown side up. Serve the gravy separately. To have the crust of a pot-pie brown, set the pot for a few moments over a clear fire, after the meat is out. Veal Minced. — Mince the veal as finely as pos- sible, separating the skin, gristle, and bones, with which a gravy should be made. Put a small quantity of the gravy into a stewpan, with a little lemon-peel grated, and a spoonful of milk or cream. Thicken it with a little butter and flour, mixed gradually with thq. gravy ; season it with salt and a little lemon- juice and Cayenne pepper. Put in the minced veal and let it simmer a few minutes. Serve it up with sippets of bread, and garnish with sliced lemon. Minced Veal, with Poached Eggs. — Mince part of a fillet of veal extremely fine, put it into a stewpan, and pour over it a sufficient quantity of good hot sauce to make it of a tolerable thickness ; then have a stewpanful of water, with a little vine- gar in it, and as soon as it boils break in two eggs, and keep boiling quickly, but not so as to boil over.' When they are done take them out with a cullender spoon, put them into another stewpan with clear warm water, and so on till six are done. When you want to serve, squeeze a little lemon-juice in the 114 MEATS. mince, pour it on a hot dish, tatce the eggs out of the water, neatly trim them, lay them on some veal, and serve. Minced V eal. — Take three or four pounds of the I lean only of a fillet or loin of veal, and mince it very j finely, adding a slice or two of cold ham, minced [ also ; add three or four small young onions, chopped |l small, a teaspoonful of sweet marj oram leaves, rubbed ( from the stalks, the yellow rind of a small lemon, j grated, and a teaspoonful of mixed mace and nut- [ meg, powdered ; mix all well together, and dredge I it with a little flour. Put it into a stewpan, with ji sufficient gravy of cold roast veal to moisten it, and | a large tablespoonful or more of fresh butter. Stir I it well, and let it stew till thoroughly done. If the | veal has been previously cooked a quarter of an I hour will be sufficient. It will be much improved by adding a pint or more of small button mush- i rooms, cut from the stems, and then put in whole ; j| also, by stirring in two tablespoonfuls of cream about | five minutes before it is taken from the fire. j Fried Patties. — Mince a little cold veal and !i ham, allowing one-third ham and two-thirds veal. i| Add an egg, boiled hard and chopped, and a season- | ing of pounded mace, salt, pepper, and lemon-peel ; | moisten with a little gravy and cream. Make a j good puff-paste, roll rather thin, and cut it into round i or square pieces; put the mince between two of j them, pinch the edges to keep in the gravy, and fry I a light brown. They may also be baked in patty- j MEATS. 115 pans. In that case they should be brushed over with the yelk of an egg before they are put in the oven. To make a variety^ oysters may be substituted for the ham. Fry the patties about fifteen minutes. Veal Forcemeat. — Free a piece of lean veal from skin and sinews. To one pound of meat put one pound of suet, chopped very fine, and one pound of grated bread crumbs, two drachms of chopped parsley, one drachm ^ch of lemon-peel, sweet herbs, and onions, half a drachm of powdered allspice. Pound all in a mortar, adding a well-beaten egg or two if too dry. Rub all well together and season with pepper and salt. Veal Croquettes. — Half a pound of veal, minced fine, quarter of a pound of stale bread crumbs. Put on in a saucepan and moisten with the liquor the veal was boiled in, and the raw yelk of two eggs mixed in with the bread crumbs ; cook it until it begins to leave the sides of the pan. Two teaspoon- fuls of chopped parsley, one of thyme, one of chopped onions, half a nutmeg, quarter of a teaspoonful of Cayenne pepper, quarter of mace, a saltspoonful of salt, two ounces of butter ; mix the above into the bread crumbs, then add the veal after well mixing. Roll out each croquette into the shape of a pear, then dip them into the white of an egg, and sprinkle with bread crumbs, and fry in hot lard. Sauce served with them should be brown sauce with spices and wine in it. 116 MEATS. Veal Sausages. — Chop equal quantities of lean veal and fat bacon, a handful of sage, a little salt, pepper, and a few anchovies. Beat all in a mortar, and, when used, roll and fry it, and serve with fried sippets or on stewed vegetables, Veal Rolls. — Cut thin slices, and spread on them a fine seasoning of a very few crumbs, a little chopped bacon or scraped ham, and a little suet and parsley, pepper, salt, and a small piece of pounded mace. This stuffing may either fill up the roll like a sausage, or rolled with the meat. In either case tie it up very tight and stew it very slowly in gravy. Serve it when tender, after skimming it nicely. Superior Veal Rolls. — Cut a few slices from a cold fillet of veal half an inch thick ; rub them over with egg ; lay a thin slice of fat bacon over each piece of veal ; brush these with the egg, and over this spread forcemeat thinly; roll up each piece tightly, egg and bread crumb them, and fry them a rich brown. Serve with mushroom sauce or brown gravy. Fry the roll from ten to fifteen minutes. Veal Sweet-bread.- — Trim a fine sweet-bread; parboil it for five minutes, and throw it into a basin of cold water. Roast it plain, or beat up the yelk of an egg, and prepare some fine bread crumbs. When the sweet-bread is cold, dry it thoroughly in a cloth ; run a skewer through it ; egg it with a paste-brush, powder it well with bread crumbs, and MEATS. 117 roast it. For sauce^ fried bread crumbs round it, and melted butter, with a little mushroom catsup and lemon-juice, or serve them on buttered toast, garnished with egg sauce or with gravy. Sweet-breads. — Scald them in salt and water, and take out the stringy parts. Then put them in cold water for a few moments. Dry them in a towel, dip in egg and crumbs, and fry brown in but- ter. When they are done, take them on a dish, pour into the frying-pan a large cup of sweet cream, a little pepper and salt, and a little green parsley, chopped fine. Dust in a very little flour, and when it boils up pour it over the breads, and send to the table hot. Fried Sweet-bread. — Sweet-breads should al- ways soak half an hour in tepid water with a pinch of salt in it, to make them white. Put them after- wards in cold water, and place over the fire to boil ; boil ten minutes. Cut them into slices, brush them with beaten egg, and cover with grated bread crumbs. Fry each slice till brown, in butter. Serve with rich gravy. Veal Olives. — Cut two thin steaks from a fil- let of veal ; beat them, and rub them over with the yelk of an egg; cut them in strips four inches long. Over every strip lay a very thin piece of fat bacon, and strew each with grated bread crumbs, a li^le lemon-peel, and chopped parsley, and season with salt and Cayenne. Roll each strip up and fasten 118 MEATS. with a little wooden skewer. Dip each roll into egg, grated bread, and chopped parsley. Put some clarified beef dripping into a frying-pan, let it boil; then throw in the rolls, and fry light brown. To a pint of good gravy add a dessertspoonful of lemon pickle, a dessertspoonful of walnut catsup, and a tea- spoonful of browning, Cayenne pepper and salt to taste, and thicken with butter rolled in flour. Place the fried olives on a dish, strain the gravy over them hot; garnish with lemon pickle and forced meat balls, and strew over all pickled mushrooms to flavor. Eoast Leg op Pork. — Cut a slit near the knuckle, and fill the space with sage and onion, chopped fine, and seasoned with pepper and salt, with or without bread crumbs. Pub sweet oil on the skin, to prevent it blistering and make the crackling crisp ; and the outer rind may be scored with lines, about half an inch apart. If the leg weigh seven or eight pounds, it will require from two and a half to three hours’ roasting before a strong fire. Serve with apple sauce and potatoes ; which are likewise eaten with all joints of roasted pork. If the stuffing be liked mild, scald the onions before chopping them. If pork is not stuffed, you may serve it up with sage and onion sauce, as well as apple sauce, which should always accompany roast pork, whether it is stuffed or not ; and also MEATS. 119 with mustard. Eoast leg of pork must always be served up with plenty of nicely boiled potatoes. Fresh Pork Pot-Pie. — Boil a spare-rib, after removing all the fat, and cracking the bones, until tender ; remove the scum as it rises, and when ten- der, season with salt and pepper ; half an hour be- fore time for serving the dinner, thicken the gravy with a little flour, have ready another kettle into which remove all the bones and most of the gravy, leaving only sufficient to cover the pot half an inch above the rim that rests on the stove ; put in the crust ; cover tight, and boil steadily twenty-five minutes. To prepare the crusty work into light dough a small bit of butter, roll it out thin, cut it in small square cakes, and lay them on the mould- ing-board until very light ; if made with brewers^ yeast, the butter should be melted in the wetting of the crust, and rolled out before rising, as the first effervescence of brewers’ yeast is the strongest; work the dough well before making up the cakes. Pork Chops. — Cut the chops about half an inch thick ; trim them neatly, (few cooks have any idea how much credit they get by this ;) put a frying-pan on the fire, with a bit of butter ; as soon as it is hot, put in your chops, turning them often till brown all over ; they will be done enough in about fifteen minutes ; take one upon a plate and try it ; if done, season it with a little finely-minced onion, powdered sage, and pepper and salt. A little pow- 120 MEATf^. dered sage, etc,, strewed over them, will give them a nice relish. Pork Steak, Broiled. — The tenderloin is the best for steak, but any lean white meat is good. Broil slowly, after splitting it so as to allow it to cook through without drying or burning. When ready to turn over, dip the cooked side in a nice gravy of butter, pepper, and salt, which should be prepared on a plate, and kept hot without boiling. It must be well done. It requires slow broiling. It will take at least twenty minutes to broil a pork steak. Pork Cutlets. — Cut slices an inch thick from a delicate loin of pork, trim them neatly ; take otf a part of the fat, or if the fat is not liked, remove the whole of it. Dredge a little pepper and salt on the cutlets, and broil them over a clear fire about twenty minutes. They may be dipped in beaten egg and afterwards in grated bread crumbs flavored with minced sage, and then broil. If fried, they should be well seasoned with pepper and salt, and dredged with flour before being put in the fat. The best fat is fried from bacon or salt pork. Pork and Apple Fritters. — Prepare a light batter, freshen or use cold boiled or baked pork ; cut it fine enough for hash, and fry it a little to extract some of the fat for frying the fritters. Peel sour apples, and cut or chop them not quite as fine as the pork ; mix first the pork and then the apples MEATS. 121 in the batter, and fry them brown. Potatoes, parsnips, salsify, or any vegetable desired, can be used in the same manner. English Raised Pork Pie.— Put into a stew- pan six ounces of lard, with a teacupful of cold water ; let it stand by the fire till boiling, then put to it one pound of flour. Mix it well with a spoon till cool enough to raise. When you have raised your pies, let them stand for half an hour before you put in your meat; put on your cover and orna- ment to your fancy. To prepare the meat,, cut up the pork to about the size of dice, add pepper and salt to yoiir taste (but take care that the pepper be equally distributed), add one tablespoonful of water to each pound of meat. One pound of flour will bake three good-sized pies. They require three^ hours’ baking in a Very moderate oven. Fresh Pork Pie. — Boil lean, fresh pork, and make the paste as for beefsteak pie; add to the pie, after putting in the meat, two potatoes cut fine, which have been before boiled ; season with pepper, salt, and a dust of summer savory. If there is not fat enough in the pork, add butter ; thicken the gravy with a little flour. The pie should contain as much gravy as possible. It is good cold or hot. Scrambled Pork. — Freshen nice salt pork, cut it in mouthfuls, and partly fry it. Just before it is done break into the pan with the pork from six to twelve eggs, break and mix the yelks with the 122 MEATS. whites, and stir them quickly with the pork. If the pork is fried brown before the egg is added, there may be too much fat for the egg ; if so, put it in a gravy-boat if needed for the table, or save it for shortening. Baked potatoes are excellent with salt meats that have a gravy of their own. To Cure Hams. — To each green ham of eighteen pounds, one dessertspoonful of saltpetre; quarter of a pound of brown sugar rubbed on the fleshy side of the ham, and round the hock. Cover the fleshy part with fine salt half an inch thick, and pack away in tubs ; let them remain from three to six weeks, according to size. Before smoking, rub off any salt that may remain on the ham, and cover well with ground black pepper, especially on the bone and hock. Hang up to drain for two days ; smoke with green wood for eight days, or until the rind is a light chestnut color. The pepper is a certain preventive of the fly. Baked Ham.-— Soak for an hour in water, and wipe very dry ; cover with a thin batter, and put it in a deep dish, with a grate under it, to keep it up from the gravy. When fully done, take off the skin and batter. Cool and garnish as boiled ham ; serve with wine sauce. Ham Pie. — Make a crust the same as for soda biscuit; line your dish; then put in a layer of potatoes sliced thin, pepper, salt, and a little butter; MEATS. 123 then a layer of lean ham ; add considerable water, and you will have an excellent pie. Ham Omelette. — Two eggs, four ounces of butter, half a saltspoonful of pepper, two tablespoon- fuls of minced ham. Mince the ham very finely, without any fat, and fry it for two minutes in a little butter ; then make the batter for the omelette, stir in the ham, and proceed as in the case of a plain omelette. Do not add any salt to the batter, as the ham is usually sufficiently salt to impart a flavor to the omelette. Good lean bacon, or tongue, answers equally well for this dish ; but they must also be slightly cooked previously to mixing them with the batter. Serve very hot and quickly, without gravy. Ham Toast. — Grate a sufficiency of the lean of cold ham. Mix some beaten yelk of egg with a little cream, and thicken it with the grated ham. Then put the mixture into a saucepan over the fire, and let it simmer awhile. Have ready some slices of bread nicely toasted (all the crust being pared off) and well buttered. Spread it over thickly with the ham mixture, and send it to table warm. Omelette of Ham, Tongue, or Sausage. — There are three methods of making a ham or tongue omelette : first, by simply cutting the meat into small dice, tossing it in butter, and pouring the well beaten and seasoned eggs upon it in the pan, and letting them remain until set, when serve ; or pound the meat to a paste in a mortar, and beat it 124 MEATS. up with the eggs, and fry in the usual manner. The third method is to beat the eggs and fry them, then lay upon them the meat (which has been pre- viously tossed in butter), fold in the ends of the omelette, and serve as hot as possible. Sausages, No. 1. — The proper seasoning is salt, pepper, sage, summer-savory, or thyme ; they should be one-third fat, the remainder lean, finely chopped, and the seasonings well mixed, and proportioned so that one herb may not predominate over the others. If skins are used, they cannot be prepared with too much care; but they are about as well made into cakes ; spread the cakes on a clean white- wood board, and keep them in a dry cool place ; fry them long and gently. Sausages No. 2 are best when quite fresh made. Put a bit of butter or dripping into a clean frying- pan ; as soon as it is melted (before it gets hot) put in the sausages, and shake the pan for a minute, and keep turning them (be careful not to break or prick them in so doing) ; fry them over a very slow fire till they are nicely browned on all sides ; when they are done, lay them on a hair sieve, placed be- fore the fire for a couple of minutes to drain the fat from them. The secret of frying sausages is, to let them get hot very gradually ; they then will not burst, if they are not stale. The common practice to prevent their bursting is to prick thein with a fork ; but this lets the gravy out. MEATS. 125 Sausage Dumplings. — Make one pound of flour and two ounces of dripping, or chopped suet, into a firm paste, by adding just enough water to enable you to knead the whole together. Divide this paste into twelve equal parts, roll each of these out sufficiently large to be able to fold up one of the beef sausages in it, wet the edge of the paste to fasten the sausage securely in it, and, as you finish off each sausage dumpling, drop it gently into a large enough saucepan, containing plenty of boiling water, and when the whole are finished, allow them to boil gently by the side of the fire for one hour, and then take up the dumplings with a spoon free from water, on to a dish, and eat them while they are hot. Sausage Cakes. — ^Chop a pound of good pork fine ; add half a teaspoonful of pepper, half a spoon- ful of cloves, half a spoonful of coriander seed, and four tablespoonfuls of cold water. Mix all well together, form them into small cakes, and fry in a hot pan. ScEAPPLE. — Take eight pounds of scrap pork, that will not do for sausage, boil it in four gallons of water; when tender, chop it fine, strain the liquor and pour it back into the pot ; put in the meat, season it with sage, summer savory, salt and pepper to taste, stir in a quart of corn meal ; after simmering a few minutes, thicken it with buckwheat 126 MEATS. flour very thick; it requires very little cooking after it is thickened, but must be stirred constantly. To Prepare Fowls for Cooking. — Professor Blot, in his lectures on cooking, gives the following directions for preparing fowls: Never wash meat or fowls. Wipe them dry if you choose, and if there is anything unacceptable it can be sliced off thinly. In cooking a chicken whole, no washing is to be done, except the gall-bladder be broken, when it is best to cut the chicken up and wash it thoroughly. Again, in cleansing chickens, never cut the breast ; make a slit down the back of the neck, and take out the crop that way. Then cut the neck-bone close, and after the bird is stuffed the skin of the neck can be turned up over the back, sewed down, and the crop will look full and round. Further, the breast-bone should be struck smartly with the back of a heavy knife, or with a rolling-pin, to break it. This will make the chicken lie rounder and fuller after it is stuffed. The legs and wings should also be fastened with thread close to the side, running a long needle through the body for that purpose. A good stuffing for baked or roast chicken may be made by chopping an onion fine, and stirring it with two ounces of butter in a saucepan on the fire. It is taken off a moment, and bread, which has been soaked in water and the water squeezed out, is added, with salt, pepper, a little nutmeg, and some parsley, chopped fine. Then one yelk of an egg, mixed in thoroughly on MEATS. 127 the fire for half a minute. This stuffing is then inserted in the chicken. It is important in choosing poultry to ascertain^ if possible, its age. A young fowl has smooth legs and combs. When old they are rough, and have long hairs on the breast. They should be plump- breasted, with fat backs, and have white or light yellow legs. Fowl Stewed with Onions. — Wash it clean, dry and truss it as for boiling ; put a little pepper and salt into it, rub it with butter,; butter a sauce- pan ; put the fowl in the pan with a pint of veal stock, or water, seasoned with pepper and salt. Turn it while stewing, and when quite tender add a dozen small onions, split. Stew all together for half an hour. A young fowl will take one hour, an old one three hours to stew. Steamed Fowls. — Fowls are better steamed than boiled, especially when there is no veal- stock on hand to boil them in. When steamed, the juices, should be saved by placing a pan under the strainer to catch all the drips. Drawn butter, plain or sea- soned with parsley or celery, is the most common sauce used for boiled fowls. Liver sauce is good ; but when oysters can be had, oyster sauce is to be preferred above all others. Fowl Cutlets. — One fowl, one egg, pinch of pepper and salt, a tablespoonful of gravy. Cut up a fowl, and bone it, form the legs, wings, breast, 9 128 MEATS. and merry-thought into six cutlets, flattening and giving them a good shape ; take the meat from the remainder of the fowl, and the liver, pound it in a mortar with pepper, salt, and a spoonful of gravy ; brush the cutlet over with an egg, spread the force- meat over them, egg again, and cover with fried bread crumbs, and fry them a light brown color; serve with lemon rind and gravy in a separate dish. Choice Fowl Pudding. — ^Take a cold fowl and mince it, cutting it into small square pieces. Make a white sauce with a small piece of butter, some flour, and cream or milk. Put the mince into the white sauce, and set it aside to cool. When quite cold, make up into balls. Cover them with egg and bread crumbs ; do this twice, to prevent them from bursting. At dinner-time, fry them in hot lard or dripping; serve them up on a serviette; garnish with parsley. To Bone Fowls for Fricassees, Curries, AND Pies. — First carve them entirely into joints, then remove the bones, beginning with the legs and wings, at the head of the largest bone ; hold this with the fingers, and work the knife carefully all round it. The remainder of the birds is too easily done to require any instructions. To Roast a Fowl. — Having nicely dressed the fowl, have ready a dressing seasoned with pepper, salt, and summer savory ; fill the body of the bird, sew up the opening, truss it nicely, oil it with butter. MEATS. 129 and put it before a moderately hot but bright fire ; heal the skin evenly as soon as possible^ cover it with paper if there is the least danger of its browning too soon^ roast pretty fast, without scorching, the first half hour, and baste the fowl all over every five minutes; after this let it roast steadily, but rather slowly, three-quarters of an hour, when, if young and tender, it will be done quite through. Stick a fork through the breast and thighs, and if the fiuid which follows the fork is entirely free from blood, it is done. If not browned, replenish the fire, wet the fowl over with very little yelk of egg; dust it lightly with flour, and let it brown evenly all over. Remove the skewers and strings before sending it to the table. To Bake a Fowl. — ^Prepare a fowl as for roast- ing ; have the oven of good but not a raging heat. Lay the fowl on skewers ; baste every five minutes, and manage the same as the roast. If young, it will bake in one hour. To Roast a Tuekey. — Proceed as directed in roast fowls ; allow from two and a half to three hours for a good-sized tender turkey. The dress- ings of fowls can be varied by using oysters, etc. To Bake a Turkey. — Follow the directions for baking fowls, and allow from two to two and a half hours steady baking for a common-sized young turkey; serve with a browned gravy. All roast fowls should be served with dressed vegetables. 130 MEATS. currant, grape, or cranberry jelly, and a baked pudding or pie. Stuffing for a Turkey.— Take some bread crumbs and turn on just enough hot water to soften them ; put in a piece of butter, not melted, the size of a hen’s egg, and a spoonful of pulverized sage, a teaspoonful of ground pepper, and a teaspoonful of salt ; there may be some of the bread crumbs that need to be chopped ; then mix thoroughly and stuff your turkey. Baked Turkey. — Let the turkey be picked, singed, and washed and wiped dry, inside and out ; joint only to the first joints in the legs, and cut some of the neck off if it is all bloody ; then cut one dozen small gashes in the fleshy parts of the turkey, on the outside and in different parts of the turkey, and press one whole oyster in each gash ; then close the skin and flesh over each oyster as tightly as possible ; then stuff your turkey, leaving a little room for the stuffing to swell. When stuffed sew it up with a stout cord, rub over lightly with flour, sprinkle a little salt and pepper on it, put some water in your dripping pan, put in your tur- key, baste it often with its own drippings ; bake to a nice brown ; thicken your gravy with a little flour and water. Be sure and keep the bottom of the dripping pan covered with water, or it will burn the gravy and make it bitter. Giblet Pie. — Wash and clean your giblets, put MEATS. 131 them in a stewpan^ season with pepper, salt, and a little butter rolled in flour, cover them with water, stew them till they are very tender. Line the sides of your pie-dish with paste, put in the giblets, and if the gravy is not quite thick enough, add a little more butter rolled in flour. Let it boil once, pour in the gravy, put on the top crust, leaving an open- ing in the centre of it in the form of a square ; ornament this with leaves of the paste. Set the pie in the oven, and when the crust is done take it out. To Feicassee Small Chickens. — Cut off the wings and legs of four chickens; separate the breasts from the backs ; divide the backs crosswise; cut off the necks; clean the gizzards; put them with the livers and other parts of the chickens, after be- ing thoroughly washed, into a saucepan ; add salt, pepper, and a little mace ; cover with water, and stew till tender. Take them up; thicken half a pint of water with two spoonfuls of flour rubbed into four ounces of butter ; add a tumbler of new milk; boil all together a few minutes, then add eight spoonfuls of white wine, stirring it in care- fully, so as not to curdle ; put in the chickens, and shake the pan until they are sufficiently heated; then serve them up. To Beoil Chickens without Buening. — Ee- move occasionally from the lire and baste with a gravy prepared as follows : Simmer together one- half cup of vinegar, a piece of butter thp size of 132 MEATS. an egg, and salt and pepper to the taste. Keep it hot to use. Chicken Pot-Pie. — Clean, singe, and joint a pair of chickens. Pare and slice eight white pota- toes ; \vash the slices and put with the pieces of chicken into a stewpan lined with pie-crust ; season with salt and pepper, dredge with flour, and cover with water. Cover with paste, making a hole in the centre; cover the kettle, and either hang it over the fire or set it in the oven. If in the oven, turn occasionally to brown evenly. Two hours’ cooking is sufficient. When done, cut the upper crust into moderate-sized pieces and place them on a large dish ; with a perforated ladle take up the potato and chicken, put it upon the crust ; cut the lower crust and put on the top. Serve the gravy hot in a gravy tureen. White Feicassee. — Boil a chicken; joint it; lay it in a saucepan with a piece of butter the size of an egg, a tablespoonful of flour, a little mace or nutmeg, white pepper, and salt. Add a pint of cream, and let it boil up once. Serve hot on toast. To Fey Cold Chicken. — Cut up the chicken, and take off* the skin, rub it with egg, cover it with seasoned bread crumbs and chopped parsley, and fry in butter. Serve with brown gravy, thickened with flour and butter, and seasoned with Cayenne, mushroom catsup, and lemon pickle. Or, the chicken may be seasoned, and fried in plain butter. MEATS. 133 Chicken Baked in Eice. — ^Cut a chicken into joints^ as for fricassee^ season it well with pepper and salt^ lay it in a pudding-dish lined with slices of ham or bacon, add a pint of veal gravy, and an onion finely minced ; fill up the dish with boiled rice, well pressed, and piled as high as the dish will allow I cover with a paste ; bake one hour, and serve. Chicken Puffs. — Mince up together the breast of a chicken, some lean ham, half an anchovy, a little parsley, some shalot, and lemon-peel, and season these with pepper, salt, Cayenne, and beaten mace. Let this be on the fire for a few minutes, in a little good white sauce. Cut some thinly-rolled- out puff-paste into squares, putting on each some of the mince, turn the paste over, fry them in boiling lard, and serve them. These puffs are very good cold, and they form a convenient supper dish. To Boil a Goose. — After it is well dressed, singe it thoroughly. Have ready a dressing pre- pared of bread crumbs, seasoned with pepper, salt and butter, with the addition of two finely-chopped onions, a little sage, and more pepper than would be used for' turkey. Fill the body and close it firmly ; put it in cold water, and boil it gently an hour, if tender; if not longer; serve with giblet sauce. The onion can be omitted if not relished. 134 MEATS. TO COOK PARTEIDGES. In making partridges ready for roasting leave the heads on, and turn them under the left wings ; cut off the tops of the toes, but do not remove the legs ; before a proper fire, twenty minutes’ roasting will be ample for young partridges. After being shot, these birds should not be kept longer than from two days to a week. The plumage is occasionally allowed to remain upon the heads of the red partridges, in which case the heads require to be wrapped in paper. To Eoast Partridges. — Rightly to look well there should be a leash (three birds) in the dish ; pluck, singe, draw, and truss them ; roast them for about twenty minutes ; baste them with butter, and when the gravy begins to run from them you may safely assume that the partridges are done; place them in a dish, together with bread crumbs, fried nicely brown and arranged in small heaps. Gravy should be served in a tureen apart. To Broil Partridges. — Split them in half; do not wash them, but wipe their insides with a cloth ; dip them into liquid butter, then roll them in bread crumbs; repeat this process; lay them inside downwards, upon a well-heated gridiron, turn them but once, and when done serve them with a piquante sauce. If you do not employ butter and bread crumbs, a little Cayenne and butter should be rubbed upon them before they are MEATS. 136 served. Cold roasted birds eat well if nicely broiled, and sent to table with a highly-seasoned sauce. Paeteidge Pie. — Two braces of partridges are required to make a handsome pie; truss them as for boiling ; pound in a mortar the livers of the birds, a quarter of a pound of fat bacon, and some shred parsley; lay part of this forcemeat at the bottom of a raised crust put in the partridges, add the re- mainder of the forcemeat and a few mushrooms; put some slices of bacon fat on the top, cover with a lid of crust, and bake it for two hours and a half. Before serving the pie remove the lid, take out the bacon, and add suflScient rich gravy and orange juice. Partridge pie may also be made in a dish in the ordinary way. To Boil Paeteidges. — Properly prepare the birds ; put them into plenty of boiling water ; do them quickly for fifteen minutes; make a rich sauce by adding an ounce of butter to half a pint of good thick cream; stir it one way over the fire till it is quite hot, and pour it into the dish with the partridges. To Stew Paeteidges. — Cut up the birds, after seeing that they are properly plucked, singed, etc. ; shake the following mixture over the fire until it boils ; an onion, sliced and pulled into rings, a piece of butter rolled in flour, and a tablespoonful each of water, wine, and vinegar ; put in the partridge ; 136 MEATS. let it simmer very gently till done; decorate the dish with small slices of toast; put into it the partridge, and pour the sauce over it. To Fry Partridges. — Take a brace of cold partridges that have been either roasted or braised ; cut them into quarters ; dip them into beaten and seasoned yelk of eggs ; make some butter or friture perfectly hot in a frying-pan ; put into it the birds, and do them over a moderately hot fire until they are beautifully browned. Quails Cured in Oil. — Procure a sufficient number of fine, plump quails. Pluck them, draw them, clean them thoroughly, cut them open so that they will lie flat, as for broiling, and rub them over with salt. Let them lie in the salt, turning them every morning, for three days. Let them dry ; and then pack them down close in a stone jar, covering each layer of quails tightly with fresh gathered vine leaves. Fill the jar with pure salad oil, and cover it securely with bladder, so as quite to exclude the air. When they are wanted, take them out and broil them. They make a delicious dish for breakfast. Woodcock. — ^Woodcocks should not be drawn, as the trail is considered a bonne bouehe truss their legs close to the body, and run an iron skewer through each thigh, close to the body, and tie them on a small bird spit ; put them to roast at a clear fire ; cut as many slices of bread as you have birds. MEATS. 137 toast or fry them a delicate brown, and lay them in the dripping-pan under the birds to catch the trail ; baste them with butter, and froth them with flour; lay the toast on a hot dish, and the birds on the toast ; pour some good beef gravy into the dish, and serve. Snipes differ little from woodcocks, unless in size ; they are to be dressed in the same way, but require about five minutes less time to roast them. Wild Ducks. — ^For roasting a wild duck you must have a clear, brisk fire and a hot spit. It must be browned upon the outside without being sodden within. To have it well frothed and full of gravy is the nicety. Prepare the fire by stirring and raking it just before the bird is laid down, and fifteen or twenty minutes will do it in the fashion- able way ; but if you like it a little more done allow it a few minutes longer ; if it is too much it will lose its flavor. To Keep Game. — ^If there be any danger of birds not keeping, pick and draw them, wash them well in water, and rub them with salt. Plunge them singly into a large saucepan of boiling water, draw them up and down by the legs to let the water pass through them. After they have been in the water for five minutes hang them up to dry in a cold place, sprinkle them with pepper and salt well inside. Before dressing them they must be again washed. By this means the most delicate birds may 138 MEATS. be preserved^ with the exception of those which live by suction^ as they are never drawn ; but they may be kept a long time by putting lumps of charcoal^ or placing a small quantity of mould in muslin bags in their insides. Venisok Steaks. — Cut them from the neck; season them with pepper and salt. When the grid- iron has been well heated over a bed of bright coals, grease the bars and lay the steaks upon it. Broil them well, turning them once, and taking care to save as much of the gravy as possible. Serve them up with some currant jelly laid on each steak. Rabbit Pie.^ — Cut the rabbit into joints. Take out the leg bones, which, with the head and breast bones well stewed, will make a good gravy. Put the joints of the rabbit into a pie-dish, with half a pound of salt pork in rashers, or a little ham or bacon, if preferred to the pork. Mix in a saucer a little flour, pepper and salt, pounded mace, and grated nutmeg. Sprinkle this mixture in, add half a pint of water, and cover with a suet, dripping, or butter crust, as you please. You may improve the pie by putting in forcemeat balls and hard-boiled eggs. Bake about an hour and a half ; pour in the gravy you have made before serving. Romak Pie. — Boil a rabbit ; cut all the meat as thin as possible. Boil two ounces of macaroni very tender, two ounces of Parmesan or common cheese, grated, a little onion, chopped fine, pepper and salt MEATS. 139 to taste, not quite half a pint of cream. Line a mould, sprinkled with vermicelli, with a good paste. Bake an hour and serve it either with or without brown sauce. Cold chicken or cold game may be used for this pie instead of a rabbit. POTTED FISH AND MEATS. The preservation of potted meats is mainly due to the exclusion of the air by the vessels in which they are inclosed, and the layer of fat with which the meat is covered. For home purposes we should always recommend butter to be employed for this purpose, and hence the first operation necessary in potting is the purifi- cation of that substance. Butter, as ordinarily made, contains a considera- ble quantity of curdy matter, derived from the cream. This, after a time, turns rancid, even in spite of all the salt that may be added ; and consequently the length of time that butter will keep is limited. By removing the curd, butter will keep a very great length of time without change. The only method by which this can be done is by clarifying. In some parts of Switzerland they put the butter into earthenware glazed vessels, these are placed in large saucepans of water and heated very gently until the contents melt, the greatest care being taken not to overheat the butter, and as soon as it becomes liquid the vessels are allowed to cool with the slightest agitation. In this manner all the impurities are got 140 MEATS. rid of, some being lighter rise to the top, others, as the curd, sink to the bottom. The pure butter so clarified will keep sweet for a long time, and it is in this condition that it should always be used in pot- ting. If butter is clarified in a saucepan over a fire, the curdy matter is certain to be overheated, and the whole mass becomes unpleasantly flavored. Clarified butter is better than suet or melted fat to pour over the top of the potted meats, as the suet in cooling cracks away from the pot and admits the air. This evil does not generally happen when butter is used. Having made these preliminary observations we will now give some receipts for potting meats, premising that small pots should generally be used for two reasons — firstly, the cov- ering of butter is less likely to crack when small pots are used than when large ones are employed ; and secondly, the contents are sooner eaten when opened, so that there is less chance of their being spoiled by exposure to the air. Any kind of meat — as beef, tongue, ham, chicken, etc., — ^may be potted if first baked or stewed until tender, and the fleshy parts pounded in a mortar with salt, such spices as may be approved, and a proportion of clarified butter. It should then be pressed firmly into the pots, melted clarified butter poured over it, and the pot tied down when cold. In most cookery books a marble mortar is recom- mended. This is a mistake. There cannot be a much worse material used for mortars than marble. MEATS. 141 It is soft, and, what is still worse, readily absorbent of grease and flavors, so after having been used for one substance, if high flavored, cannot be safely used for another. A good wedgewood-ware mortar, such as used by chemists, is the cheapest and best that can be employed. Many potted articles require special treatment, the directions for which we subjoin : Potted Salmon. — Split a salmon down the back, and divide it into two pieces, removing the back- bone, head, and tail. Wipe the two sides with a clean napkin, but do not wash them. Salt them slightly, and let them drain. Put the drained pieces into a baking pan, after having well rubbed them all over with a mixture of powdered cloves and mace and four or five bay leaves and some whole pepper. Cover the fish with cold clarified butter, and the pan with strong paper. When baked take the salmon out and let it drain from the gravy. Take off* the skin and put the fish into the pots. Sprinkle the upper surface of the potted salmon with a little spice, and pour clarified butter over it when cold; then close the pots. Potted Lobster. — Boil the lobsters yourself. Choose hens in preference, on account of the spawn. When the lobsters are cold pick out all the parts that are eatable. Beat the flesh in a mortar, season- ing it with salt and a mixture of pepper, mace, and nutmeg, finely powdered. As you beat and mix it, 142 MEATS. incorporate with the paste a small quantity of clari- fied butter. Press the meat strongly into the pot- ting pots, and pour over it hot clarified butter. Lob- sters may also be potted by putting into the pots lumps of the meat, and pounding only the spawn, and filling up with clarified butter. Potted Rabbit. — Take off the legs and shoul- ders of the rabbits, also the fleshy parts of the back. Cut off the leg bones at the first joint, and the shoulder bones at the blades, but without cutting off the meat. Take also the livers, season these limbs and livers, put plenty of butter over them, and bake them gently; then stow them lightly into pots, covering them with clarified butter. The remainder of the rabbits may serve for any other purpose in the culinary arrangements of the day. Potted Pigeons. — Clean them well, bone them, season them in the usual manner, and lay them very close in a baking-pan. Cover them with butter, tie very thick paper over them, and put the pan into the oven. When cold put them, closely packed side by side, into pots that will hold three each, and cover them with clarified butter. Potted Birds. — Bake them in a pan under a crust, with plenty of seasoning and butter. When they are cold put as many in a pot as can be forced in side by side, and cover them with clarified butter. .To Pot Veal. — Cold fillet makes the finest potted veal, or it may be done as follows : Season MEATS* 143 a large slice of the fillet before it is dr^sed with some mace^ pepper-corns^ and two or three cloves ; lay it close into a potting-pan that will just hold it^ fill it up with water, and bake it three hours. Then pound it quite small in a mortar, and salt to taste ; put a little gravy that was baked to it in pounding, if to be eaten soon, otherwise only a little butter just melted | when done, cover it over with butter. Potted Calves’ Feet.— Boil the feet for five hours; flavor half a pint of the jelleyin which they are boiled with nutmeg, garlic, and pounded ham, and let them simmer together for a few minutes ; cut up the feet into small pieces and season them ; dip a mould into cold water, and put in the meat, mixed with a little grated lemon-peel and minced parsley. Some persons add beet-root, baked or boiled, cut in slices and mixed with the meat, when this is arranged in the mould, fill up with the flavored jelley. Turn out when quite cold. The remainder of the jelly in which the feet were boiled can be used as a sweet jelly. Potted Yeal and Bacon. — ^Cut equal quanti- ties of veal and bacon into thin slices. Rub together some dried sweet-basil or summer-savory, very fine; lay in a stewpan a layer of bacon and a layer of veal, and on these sprinkle the powdered herbs, a little grated horseradish, pepper and salt. Put layers in the same order, seasoned, till all the meat 10 144 MEATS. is in the pan. Squeeze over all the juice of a lemon, and grate on it the yellow rind. Cover very tightly and bake for three hours in a moderate oven, then take out and drain olf all the gravy. Shake over the meat a little catsup, press under heavy weights for three hours, and put away in a tightly covered pot. CHAPTER V. VEGETABLES AND SALADS. VEGETABLES. Vegetables should be carefully cleaned from insects and nicely washed. Boil them in plenty of water, and drain them the moment they are done enough. If over-boiled they will lose their beauty and crispness. Bad cooks sometimes dress them with meat, which is wrong, except carrots or cabbage with boiling beef. In order to boil vegetables of a good green coldr, take care that the water boils when they are put in. Make them boil very fast. Do not cover, but watch them, and if the water has not slackened you may be sure they are done when they begin to sink. Then take them out immediately, or the color will change. Hard water, especially if chaly- beate, spoils the color of such vegetables as should be green. To boil them green in hard water, put a teaspoonful of carbonate of soda or potash into the water when it boils, before the vegetables are put in. To Boil Potatoes. — Pare or merely wash them, as preferred, and put them in a covered saucepan ' 145 146 VEGETABLES AND SALADS. / of cold water, with a teaspoonful of salt ; boil them till they are done (which can be ascertained by running a fork into them) and begin to break a little ; then pour the water from them, and hold the saucepan with the lid off, over the fire for two or three minutes, shaking well at the end of the time ; put the lid loosely on so as to allow the steam to escape, and sprinkle a very little salt over them ; let them stand till wanted (the sooner the better), but they may remain in this way, if necessary, half an hour or more. Time, twenty to thirty minutes, or longer if very large. To Bkoil Potatoes. — Parboil, then slice and broil them. Or, parboil, and then set them whole on the gridiron over a very slow fire, and when thoroughly done send them up with their skins on. This last way is practised in many Irish families. Potato Chips. — Wash and peel some potatoes, then pare them, ribbon-like, into long lengths ; put them into cold water to remove the strong potato flavor; drain them, and throw them into a pan with a little butter, and fry them a light brown. Take them out of the pan, and place them close to the fire on a sieve, lined with clean writing-paper, to dry, before they are served up. A little salt may be sprinkled over them. Steamed Potatoes. — Either peel them or not, according to their quality, but any rate wash them VEGETABLES AND SALADS. 147 thoroughly ; put them into a steamer, cover them down closely, and place them over a saucepan of boiling water. Endeavor not to lift the lid until you have reason to suppose the potatoes are done. Unless of a very small size, potatoes usually require forty minutes or an hour^s steaming. Baked Potatoes. — Potatoes are either baked in their jackets or peeled ; .in either case they should not be exposed to a fierce heat, which is wasteful, inasmuch as thereby a great deal of the vegetable is scorched and rendered uneatable.- They should be frequently turned while being baked, and kept from touching each other in the oven or dish. When done in their skins be particular to wash and brush them before baking them. If convenient, they may be baked in wood-ashes, or in a Dutch oven in front of the fire ; serve them in damask napkin. When pared they should be baked in a dish, and fat of some kind added to prevent their outsides from becoming burnt ; they are ordinarily baked thus as an accessory to baked meat. PoMMES DE Tehee a la Danoies. — Peel six good large mealy potatoes, cut them into rather thin slices, and throw them into a saucepan of boiling water, do them quickly until they are tender enough to mash ; strain off the water and mash them smooth with a spoon, add- some fresh butter or oil, salt, pepper, chopped parsley, and grated nutmeg, together with two new-laid eggs. Stir all well. 148 VEGETABLES AND SALADS. heat some very good butter or salad oil in a frying- pan, place in it spoonfuls of the potato, turn them as they become brown, drain them from fat, and serve very hot. When preferred, spoonfuls may be arranged upon a buttered dish and baked. Potato Suepeise. — Take some good-sized cold, boiled potatoes, cut a piece from the end of each, and with a round-topped knife remove a good deal of the inside of the potatoes; fill them with oysters, bearded, chopped, peppered, and mixed with raw egg ; replace the tops upon the potatoes, moistening the edges with raw egg to make them adhere together, and place the potatoes in a slack oven, while you prepare a batter, into which dip them, and afterwards fry them in lard ; when very nicely browned serve hot. Some pickled sauce may take the place of the oysters, if more convenient, or a few bread crumbs soaked in beaten egg. Mieoton of Potatoes. — Peel and nicely steam eight good mealy potatoes ; when done, mash them and season them with pepper; chop up one medium- sized onion and the yelks of two hard-boiled eggs, fry them in plenty of oil or butter ; when the onion is quite tender drain it and the eggs from all fat, add them to the mashed potato, mix with them two raw eggs, and a dessertspoonful of catsup ; place all together in a mould buttered and sprinkled with bread crumbs ; bake for half an hour, and turn out of the mould to serve. VEGETABLES AND SALADS. 149 Potatoes Mashed and Feied. — What are called mashed potatoes should^ to be properly made, be passed through the hair sieve, and then stirred up in a saucepan with milk, butter, and salt | by this process you avoid coming upon pieces of hard potato. Another simpler mode is to pass the potatoes through the sieve, and, before they have time to cool, put them into a vegetable dish, with a lump of butter under them, keeping them hot till the time of serving. With some dishes fried potatoes are de rigueur. To fry them well you must attend to the following points : Plenty of fat. Wait till the fat is very hot before you throw them in. Let them be thoroughly dry, for, if at all damp, they will never be crisp. When they have got a fine golden tinge, take them out and lay them on a piece of blotting paper before the fire, giving them a good sprinkling of salt. Do not attempt to fry boiled potatoes ; they must be raw, and you can cut them either in dices the thickness of a shilling, or in pieces about the size of a French Bean and the length of the potato. Boiled potatoes can be warmed up by frying, and one very good way is to fry some shalots or onions, and, when they begin to take color, throw in the potatoes, any how, and keep turning them until warm. Cold mashed potatoes make excellent little side 150 VEGETABLES AND SALADS* dishes, the simplest of which is this : Stir an egg or two with your potatoes ; add a few finely-pow- dered spices, pepper and salt to taste, and some minced parsley; mix well, and roll the mixture into balls, or any shape you like ; cover with fine bread crumbs, fry a nice golden color, and serve garnished with fried parsley. This dish can be varied ad infinitum^ by either inserting in the mid- dle of each ball, or incorporating with the mixture, any of the following : The flesh of fowls or game, any kind of fish, lobsters, crabs, etc,, all finely minced. If you have some very rich stock, moisten the minced meat or fish with it, and your dish will be improved ; only, in that case, you must put a small portion of the mixture in each ball, and not mix it up with the potatoes. The above combina- tions can be erected into a more imposing dish by placing the minced fish or meat in a pie-dish, and covering over with potatoes, then baking until the top is of the desired color ; in this case, however, a regular ragout should be made for the animal part of the dish, and the potatoes only play second fiddle. A favorite way of dressing potatoes is this : Cut them up into quarters ; rub a saucepan with a piece of garlic, put into it a goodly piece of butter, and when it is melted throw in your potatoes ; add a very little water, pepper and salt, and a small quantity of grated nutmeg ; let the whole simmer till done, and, before serving, add some minced vegetables and salads. 151 parsley and a little lemon-juice. Cooked in this way they can be eaten as a separate dish. Boiled potatoes cut up into quarters, and with a white sauce, with minced parsley put over them, make a very nice dish. A delicious way of eating new potatoes is to put them into a saucepan with plenty of butter ; toss them about till done, sprinkling with salt, and serving very hot. With potatoes a most excellent good, sweet dish can be made. It is made thus: Boil and pass through a hair sieve three or four potatoes ; stir to them powdered sugar and the yelks of two eggs ; add a few drops of essence of vanilla, or any other essence ; beat up the whites of the two eggs into a froth, mix quickly and thoroughly with the pud- ding, pour into a shape (previously buttered and bread-crumbed) and bake in a quick oven for twenty minutes or less. This will be found a very effective dish. The only difficulty about it is the timing of the cooking thereof, as it requires to be taken up to table as soon as it is done, and the cook must know her company well to be able to judge how long they will take over the previous dishes. The preparing of this dish is very good practice for making souffles ; and, in fact, if less potatoes are used and more eggs, you produce, with- out knowing it, a souffle of pommes de terre, as it is called. Potato Rolls. — Wash some potatoes of a me- 152 VEGETABLES AND SALADS. dium size, pare them, and cut them in the form of small rolls of about three inches in length and an inch and a half across ; dip them into beaten egg, have some thin slices of fat bacon large enough to envelop a potato; wrap one in each rasher, arrange them in a small baking dish, put them into a mode- rately hot oven, and bake them until the potatoes are done ; rasp a little toast upon them, and serve them directly. Stewed Potatoes. — Cut into slices four cold potatoes that have either been boiled or steamed ; season them, dredge them with flour, and put them into a stewpan with some fresh’ butter or olive oil ; fry them slightly on both sides for flve minutes, drain off the fat, pour upon them half a pint of good gravy nicely flavored, and let them stew by the side of the fire for twenty minutes. Serve to- gether with the sauce in which they were stewed. Beowned Potatoes. — Steam or boil some rather small-sized potatoes, peel them, and throw them into a stewpan of boiling butter ; shake them occa- sionally, and when done and well browned, serve them upon a thin slice of toast which has been dipped into either essence of anchovy, or catsup. Potato Feittees. — Take seventeen large-sized Mercer potatoes, grate them finely ; when all are grated, add three eggs, three tablespoonfuls of flour, and one tablespoonful of salt; mix it well. Drop into hot lard or butter and bake until done. VEGETABLES AND SALADS. 153 New Potatoes— To Boil. — Procure them of equal size, and if very young, wash them only ; if older, rub off the skins with a scrubbing-brush or coarse cloth. Put them into boiling water till ten- der, and sprinkle a little salt over them, and put a lump of butter in ; shake up and serve. Time, fifteen to twenty minutes. Potato Salad is made with vinegar in the fol- lowing manner, viz. ; Boil your potatoes, (select the smallest,) and, as soon as they are done, peel them as quick as you can ; cut them in small slices, and after seasoning them with salt and pepper, pour over them (while hot) five or six tablespoonfuls of vinegar to about one quart of potatoes, and turn them thoroughly. Cut a large onion very fine and put it in, still turning. Half an hour after, add three or four tablespoonfuls of sweet oil, and after turning again, serve. Potato Patties. — Butter some small patty-pans ; strew bread crumbs over the insides and fill them with some nicely-mashed potatoes, flavored with either mushroom catsup, grated lemon-peel, or sav- ory herbs, chopped fine ; add sufficient lard or fresh butter, and sift more bread crumbs on the tops; place them in an oven till properly browned, lift them out of the patty-pans to serve. Potato Scones. — Mash boiled potatoes till they are quite smooth, adding a little salt; then knead out with flour, to the thickness required; toast. 1 54 VEGETABLES AND SALAliS: pricking them with a fork to prevent them blister- ing. When eaten with fresh butter, they are very nutritious. Potatoes in Meat, Puddings, and Pies. — The introduction of a potato or two into family pud- dings is a generally acknowledged improvement, inasmuch as the farinaceous nature of the potato causes it to absorb fat, and thereby act as a correc- tive to the over richness of most meat pies and pud- dings. Potatoes are especially of advantage with beef or mutton, one or two to an ordinary sized pasty being sufficient. Eoasted Potatoes. — Wash some good sized potatoes and boil them for ten minutes. Take them up and peel them, well butter them outside, sprinkle some salt and pepper upon them, and dredge them with a little flour ; arrange them in an oven and roast them before the fire, turning them as they require it. When thoroughly brown serve in a hot dish. Jury Pie. — Steam or boil some mealy potatoes, mash them together with some butter or cream, season them, and place a layer at the bottom of the pie-dish, upon this place a layer of finely chopped cold meat or fish of any kind, well seasoned, then add another layer of potatoes, and continue alternat- ing these with more chopped meat until the dish be filled. Smooth down the top, strew bread crumbs upon it, and bake until it is well browned. A very VEGETABLES AND SALADS. 155 small quantity of meat serves in this manner to make a nice presentable little dish. A sprinkling of chopped pickles may be added if handy, and when fish is employed it eats better if first beaten up with raw egg. Some dressed spinach, tomatoes, aspara- gus tops, etc., may be made use of in place of the meat, if convenient, but the potatoes should pre- dominate three-fourths more than the other ingre- dient introduced. Potato Croquettes, a Sweet Dish. — Take some nicely baked potatoes, scoop out the mealy part, and mash it thoroughly smooth; press it through a sieve, make it into stiff paste with some cream, butter, orange flower water, powdered loaf- sugar, and raw eggs well beaten. Make it into cro- quettes by rolling portions in sifted bread crumbs, and dipping them in white of egg whipped to a snow. Fry them in plenty of lard or fresh butter. Potato Pone. — This is a favorite dish in the West India Islands. Wash, peel, and grate two pounds of potatoes, add four ounces each of sugar and butter (or beef dripping), melted, one teaspoon- ful each of salt and pepper, mix well together, place it in a baking-dish, and put it into a brisk oven until it is done and becomes nicely browned. Stuffed Potatoes. — Take five large potatoes, wash and peel them, and scoop them out, so as to have them hollow from end to end ; fill the holes with sausage or forcemeat, dip the potatoes into dis- 156 VEGETABLES AND SALADS. !*> solved butter, and arrange them in a baking-dish. Put them into a moderately hot oven for about thirty or forty minutes. Serve directly after they are done. They may be accompanied by a sauce or not, accord- ing to choice. PoMMES DE Terre en Pyramide — Either steam or boil some very good mealy potatoes, mash them and put them into a stewpan, together with some butter, a little salt, and milk. As the mixture be- comes stiff add more milk, but let it be of the desired consistency to arrange it in the form of a pyramid in a buttered dish. Place it in a hot oven, or brown with a salamander, and serve. Potatoes Fried with Batter. — Nicely wash and pare some floury potatoes. Cut each into any form you fancy, such as a large lozenge, etc., then thinly slice them, so that the pieces may be of a uni- form shape. Dip them into either a sweet or savory batter, fry them in plenty of butter, and serve them quite hot, with either salt or pounded loaf-sugar strewn upon them. Potatoes a la Creme, — Put into a saucepan about two ounces of butter, a dessertspoonful of flour, some parsley, chopped small, salt, and pepper. Stir them up together, add a wineglassful of cream, and set it on the fire, stirring continually until it boils. Cut some boiled potatoes into slices and put them into thJ saucepan with the mixture, boil all together, and serve them very hot. VEGETABLES AND SALADS. 157 Fkench Mashed Potatoes. — After well boil- ing some potatoes in their jackets peel, and mash th^m with a fork. Put them into a stewpan with some butter and salt, moisten them with fresh cream, and let them grow dry while stirring them over the fire ; add more cream, and so continue for nearly an hour. Dish them, and brown them on the top with a salamander. Serve directly. Savoky Potato Cakes. — Quarter of a pound of grated ham, one pound of mashed potatoes, and a little suet, mixed with the yelks of two eggs, pep- per, salt, and nutmeg. Poll it into little balls or cakes, and fry it a light brown. Sweet herbs may be used in the place of ham. Plain potato cakes are made with potatoes and eggs only. CAULIFLOWEE. One of the pretti&t dishes of vegetables we know consists of a cauliflower of ivory whiteness resting upon a bed of well made tomato sauce. To insure the immaculate appearance of the cauliflower, a moderate quantity of flour should be put in the water it is boiled in, and the cauliflower should only be put in when the water is boiling fast. When two or more cauliflowers are used, they should be moulded into one to serve them. To do this, when they are boiled, cut off* the stalk, and dispose the pieces of cauliflower head downwards in a basin ; press them gently together, turn them out dexterously on a dish, and two or three small cauliflowers will by 158 VEGETABLES AND SALADS. this means present the appearance of one large one. Care must be taken to have the basin quite hot and to operate quickly. This cannot very well be done with the small purple cauliflower or brocoli ; but all the formulas given for cauliflowers proper may be applied to brocoli likewise. The sauce should be put into the dish and the cauliflowers over it ; but if the moulding process has not been successful, or if the cauliflowers are not very nice looking ones, then pour the sauce over them, so as to hide their deformity. The very best way, however, to treat cauliflowers is au gralin, and this has the advantage that it may be applied to the remains of the cauliflowers served at the dinner of the day before. This is the simplest form of it : Dispose the pieces of cauliflowers on a dish, pour a good supply of liquified butter over them, and plenty of grated cheese, with a judicious admixture of powdered white pepper, salt, and nut- meg. Put the dish into the oven for a few minutes, or brown with a red-hot salamander, and serve. Here are other modes of proceeding: Rub the dish very slightly with garlic, mould your cauli- flowers in a basin, and pour into them, before turn- ing them out, some melted butter, into which you have dissolved a good allowance of cheese; turn them out on the dish, strew plentifully with grated cheese, a few bread crumbs, pepper, and salt, pour- ing the remainder of the sauce over. Brown and serve. 159 VEGETABLES AND SALADS. Instead of moulding the cauliflowers, dip each piece in the sauce, and dispose them flat on the dish, filling up the interstices with bread crumbs and cheese in equal parts ; pepper and salt accord- ing to taste ; brown and serve. The great thing to be avoided is not to make these preparations too dry, and yet there should not be over much butter. The browning must be carefully done, so as to produce a surface of a uniform golden color — not in patches, some burnt black, and others not browned at all, as is too often the case in the preparations of the careless and hasty operators who preside in kitchens. To such people as may object to cheese, I can recommend the following receipt, which has great merit of its own : Dispose your pieces of boiled cau- liflower upon a dish well rubbed with garlic, over them strew a mixture of bread crumbs and ancho- vies, capers, and olives, mixed fine pepper, and salt ; over all pour a judicious quantity of fine salad oil. Bake for about ten minutes, and serve. Celery may be dressed according to the above formulas also; but we prefer treating the latter in the same way as asparagus, which it emulates in delicacy of flavor — i. e., by plain boiling in salt and water, and serving with some simple sauce. Boiled Cauliflowek. — Soak the head two hours in salt water, and cook until tender in milk and water ; drain and serve whole with drawn but- ter. This makes the best appearance, but it will be n 160 VEGETABLES AXE SALADS. found to suit the taste better cut up and seasoned richly with butter and a little salt and pepper. In either case it must be well drained. Cauliflower Omelette. — After boiling a firm head of cauliflower allow it to grow cold, chop it very fine, mix it with sufiicient well beaten egg to make a very thick batter. Fry brown in fresh butter, and serve hot. Cauliflower in Milk. — Choose those that are close and white, cut off* the green leaves, and look carefully that there are no caterpillars about the stalk ; soak an hour in cold water, with a handful of salt in it ; then boil them in milk and water, and take care to skim the saucepan, that not the least foulness may fall on the flower. It must be served very white and rather crimp. Fried Cauliflower. — Having laid a fine cauliflower in cold water for an hour, put it into a pot of boiling water that has been slightly salted (milk and water will be still better,) and boil it twenty-five minutes, or till the large stalk is per- fectly tender. Then divide it equally into small tufts, and spread it on a dish to cool. Prepare a sufficient quantity of batter made in the proportion of a tablespoonful of flour, and two tablespoonfuls of milk to each egg. Beat the eggs very light; then stir into them the flour and milk alternately ; a spoonful of flour, and one of milk and eggs; season with pepper and salt. Dip the cold cauli- VEGETABLES AND SALADS. 161 flower into the batter, and fry each piece in butter and lard until brown. Coen Balls. — Grate five ears of partly dried corn, and powder it in a mortar. Eoll the powder into small balls and boil them twenty minutes. Take them out of the water; cool them; mash them with some crushed white sugar and two eggs. Form again in balls and fry in boiling lard and butter. Sprinkle them with finely powdered sugar, and serve hot. Corn Oysters. — ^Grate the corn. To every pint, take three well beaten eggs, and sufficient flour to bind the mixture together. Season with salt, form in the shape of oysters, and fry brown in butter and lard. Corn in Cans. — Dissolve one ounce and a quarter of tartaric acid in half a pint of water. Cut the corn from the cob, and add sufficient water to cook it properly. When cooked, add two table- spoonfuls of the acid solution to every quart of corn. Can it immediately ; seal securely, and put it away in a cool, but not damp place. When wanted for use, stir half a teaspoonful of soda through two quarts of corn, and let it stand three or four hours before cooking. This will remove all the acid taste, and render the corn as fresh as when cooked in the summer. Corn Porridge. — Take young corn, and cut the grains from the cob. Measure it, and to each 1G2 VEGETABLES AND SALADS. heaping pint of corn allow not quite a quart of milk. Put the corn and milk into a pot, stir them well together, and boil them till the corn is perfectly soft. Then add some bits of fresh butter dredged with flour, and let it boil five minutes longer. Stir in at the last some beaten yelk of egg, and in three minutes remove it from the fire. Take up the porridge, and send it to table hot, and stir some fresh butter into it. You may add sugar and nutmeg. Succotash. — If old beans are used, they must be soaked over night, and parboiled in two waters before putting in the pork. The corn should be added to the beans and pork about fifteen minutes before the hour for serving the dinner. It is well to boil the cobs with the beans and pork in the last water. Remove them before adding the corn. For using beans not fully ripe, one change of water is sufficient ; the pork can be parboiled at the same time. Beans for succotash should remain whole; care must be taken that they boil gently, so as not to break them. Considerable water is generally used in boiling the beans, that no more need be added when the corn is put in ; most persons like considerable soup in this dish. Families can be governed by taste in this. Dish the corn and beans in a deep dish with the froth, and season with butter and a very little salt: use no pep- per; if any person desires it, it is easily added. Serve the pork on a platter, after taking off the VEGETABLES AND SALADS. 163 skin and dotting it with pepper^ by dipping the little finger in ground pepper and pressing it on the pork. Green Corn Dumplings. — A quart of young corn grated from the cob^ half a pint of wheat flour sifted^ half a pint of milk^ six tablespoonfuls of butter, two eggs, a saltspoonful of salt, a saltspoonful of pepper, and butter for frying. Having grated as fine as possible sufficient young fresh corn to make a quart, mix with it the wheat flour, and add the salt and pepper. Warm the milk in a small saucepan, and soften the butter in it. Then add them gradually to the pan of corn stirring very hard, and set it away to cool. Beat the eggs light, and stir them into the mixture when it has cooled. Flour your hands and make it into little dumplings. Put into a frying-pan a sufficiency of fresh butter (or lard and butter, in equal proportions), and when it is boiling hot, and has been skimmed, put in the dumplings, and fry them ten minutes or more, in proportion to their thickness. Then drain them, and send them hot to the dinner table. Corn Fritters. — ^One dozen ears of young corn grated ; one pint of new milk or rich cream, two eggs, a little salt .and flour sufficient for a stiff batter. Fry brown in butter and lard. Broiled Tomatoes. — ^Wash and wipe the tomatoes, and put them on the gridiron stem down. Set the gridiron over a clear fire. When brown on 164 VEGETABLES AND SALADS. one side, turn them ; let them cook through. Pepper, salt, and serve on a hot dish, with a small piece of butter on each tomato. Tomato Frittees. — Take one quart of stewed tomatoes, stir in one egg, one small teaspoonful of saleratus or soda, and flour enough to make it the consistency of pancakes. Browned Tomatoes. — Take large round toma- toes and halve them ; place them, the skin side down, in a frying-pan in which a very small quantity of butter or lard has been previously melted ; sprinkle them with salt and pepper and dredge them well with flour ; place the pan on a hot part of the fire, and let them brown thoroughly; then stir them and let them brown again, and so on until they are quite done. They lose their acidity, and the flavor is superior to stewed to- matoes. Tomato Soup. — ^Wash, scrape, and cub small the red part of three large carrots, three heads of celery, four large onions, and two large turnips ; put them into a saucepan, with a tablespoonful of butter and half a pound of lean new ham ; let them stew very gently for an hour ; then add three quarts of brown gravy soup and some whole black pepper, with eight or ten ripe tomatoes ; let it boil an hour and a half, and pulp it through a sieve • serve it with fried bread cut in dice. Tomato Toast. — Remove the stem and all the VEGETABLES AND SALADS. 165 Beeds from the tomatoes; they must be ripe — ^but not over ripe ; stew them to a pulp, season with butter, pepper and salt ; toast some bread, butter it, and then spread the tomato on each side, and send it up to table two slices on each dish, the slices cut in two, and the person who helps it must serve with two half slices, not attempt to lift the top slice, otherwise the appearance of the under slice will be destroyed. To Bake Tomatoes. — Season them with salt and pepper ; flour them over, put them in a deep plate with a little butter, and bake in a stove. Bkeakfast Tomatoes. — This is a nice break- fast dish ; prepare the tomatoes, and stew them. Toast a slice of light bread for each member of the family, and spread the stewed tomatoes evenly on each slice. If any is left, pour it over the whole ; serve immediately. Chinese Rice. — The process of boiling one found of rice is as follows : Take a clean stew- pan, with a close-fitting top, then take a clean piece of white muslin, large enough to cover over the top of the pan and hang down inside nearly to, but not in contact with, the bottom. Into the sack so formed place the rice, pour over it two cupfuk of water, and put on the top of the stewpan, so as to hold up the muslin bag inside, and fit tight all round. Place the pan on a slow fire, and the steam generated from the water will cook the rice. Each 166 VEGETABLES AND SALADS. grain, it is stated, will come out of the boiler as dry and distinct as if just taken from the hull. More water may be poured into the pan if necessary, but only sufficient to keep up the steam till the rice is cooked. The pan must not be heated so hot as to cause the steam to blow off the lid. Caeolina Rice. — Pick the rice carefully, and wash it through two or three cold waters till it is quite clean. Then (having drained off all the water through a colander) put the rice into a pot of boil- ing water, with a very little salt, allowing as much as a quart of water to half a pint of rice ; boil it twenty minutes or more. Then pour off the water, draining the rice as dry as possible. Lastly, set it on hot coals with the lid off, that the steam may not condense upon it and render the rice watery. Keep it dry thus for a quarter of an hour. Put it into a deep dish, and loosen and toss it up from the bottom with two forks, one in each hand, so that the grains may appear to stand alone. Rice and Milk. — ^To every quart of good milk allow two ounces of rice ; w^ash it well in severa waters ; put it with the milk into a closely-coveret saucepan, and set it over a slow fire; when it boils take it off ; let it stand till it is cold, and simmer i^ about an hour and a quarter before sending it to table, and serve it in a tureen. Steing Beans foe Wintee Use. — String them and cut them in small pieces as if for boiling ; put VEGETABLES AND SALADS. 167 them raw in stone jars, in alternate layers, with coarse table salt, each layer about one inch in thick™ ness, leaving a layer of salt at the top, tying paper over the whole. During the winter use the beans, (boiling and seasoning them in the ordinary way, after soaking them in cold water for twelve hours,) and they prove quite equal to the best beans cooked fresh from the vine. The appearance and flavor are precisely the same. To Cook Beans in a Fkench Style. — Choose small young beans, and strip off the ends and stalks, throwing them, as prepared, into a dish full of cold spring water, and, when all are finished, wash and drain them well. Boil them in salted boiling water, in a large saucepan, and drain them, after which put them into an enamelled stewpan, and shake them over the fire until they are quite hot and dry j then add about three ounces of fresh butter, and a tablespoonful of veal or chicken broth ; the butter must be broken up into small lumps. Season with white pepper, salt, and the juice of half a lemon strained. Stir them well over a hot fire for five minutes, and serve them in a vegetable dish very hot. String Beans,— Gather them while young enough to break crispy ; break of both ends, and string them ; break in halves, and boil in water with a little salt, until tender; drain free from water, and season with butter. 168 VEGETABLES AND SALADS. Boiled Beans. — Soak over night any small white beans in soft water, put them in a strong bag, leaving room to swell ; let them boil in a potful of water until done; hang them up to let all the water drain off, and season with butter, pepper, and salt, to the taste. Paksnips require a good deal of boiling. When young wipe off the skin after they are boiled ; when old boil them with salt meat, and scrape them first. (Parsnips should always be scraped.) Average time, from twenty to forty-five minutes. Bkoiled Parsnips. — After they are boiled ten- der let them become perfectly cold. Slice thin lengthwise, and broil until nicely browned ; spread them with butter, and season with pepper and salt. To be served with roast, broiled, or fried meats. Parsnip Cutlet. — Slice boiled parsnips length- wise, and brown them in lard, after rubbing them with pepper and salt. When browned on both sides, dip one side in batter made of egg and flour, let them brown, not burn, then dip the other side, and brown in the same manner ; spread over them a lit- tle butter, or not, as desired. Serve with roasts, etc. Parsnip Fritters, No. 1. — Boil and peel two large parsnips, scrape them to a fine pulp, beat them up with the whites of two and the yelks of four eggs, two spoonfuls of cream, half a glass of sherry, and a little grated nutmeg. Beat all together for nearly VEGETABLES AND SALADS. 169 half an hour until the batter becomes light. Fry them well covered with lard, and serve with lemon or orange-juice and sugar, or with sweet or wine sauce. Paksnip Frittees, No. 2. — Boil the parsnips in salted water, so as to flavor them through. Make a light batter, cut them round, and dip them in the batter. Have ready hot lard, take them up with a a tablespoon, and drop them in while the lard is boiling. When they rise to the surface turn them ; when browned on both sides take them out. Let them drain, and set them in the oven to keep hot. Serve with broiled, fried, or roast meats or fowls. Fricassee of Parsnips. — Boil in milk till they are soft, then cut them lengthwise into bits two or three inches long, and simmer in a white sauce made of two spoonfuls of broth, a bit of mace, half a cupful of cream, a bit of butter, and some flour, pepper and salt. Fried Plantains or Bananas. — Buy some sweet plantains, or bananas. If not thoroughly ripe, hang them up in the room to ripen. Take off the skins, cut in slices, and fry in hot lard until browned. The long, green, hard, plantains are peeled and roasted in the ashes, when it closely resembles bread. It is also cut in slices and fried a nice brown in hot lard. They are also boiled in soups, stews, hashes, etc. Vegetables and Sauces. — Potatoes are good 170 VEGETABLES AND SALADS. with all meats. With fowls they are nicest mashed. Carrots, parsnips, turnips, greens, and cabbage are eaten with boiled meat ; and beets, peas, and beans are appropriate to either boiled or roasted meat. Mashed turnip is good with roasted pork. To- matoes are good with every kind of meat, but especially so with roast; apple sauce with roast pork ; cranberry sauce with beef, fowls, veal, and ham. Currant jelly is used by many persons with roast mutton. Pickles are good with all roast meats, and capers or nasturtiums with boiled lamb or mut- ton. Horseradish and lemons are excellent with veal. Cakkots. — Let them be well washed and brushed, not scraped. An hour is enough for young spring carrots. Grown carrots must be cut in half, and will take from an hour and a half to two hours and a half. When done rub off the peels with a clean, coarse cloth, and slice them in two or four, according to their size. The best way to try if they are done enough is to pierce them with a fork. Cabeot Feittees. — These very nice fritters are simply made, and we can recommend them as being an agreeable variety for a side dish at a small party. Beat two small boiled carrots to a pulp with a spoon, add three or four eggs, and half a handful of flour. Moisten with cream, milk, or a little white wine, and sweeten to taste ; beat all well together, and fry them in boiling lard. When of good color take VEGETABLES AND SALADS. 171 them off and serve, having squeezed over them the juice of an orange, and strewed them over with finely sifted sugar. Paksley and Butter. — Wash and tie up a bunch of parsley. Put it in boiling water, and let it boil for five minutes. Drain it, cut off the stalks, and chop the leaves very fine. Put it into the melted butter, which may be made by smoothly mixing a tablespoonful of fiour with half a pint of water and two ounces of butter. Stir all one way ; let it boil about two minutes. Fried Artichokes. — Cut the artichokes into six or eight pieces, according to their size, remove the choke and the large leaves which will not become tender, and trim off the tops of the remainder of the leaves with a pair of scissors. Wash them in sev- eral waters, drain them, and dip them in a batter made with flour, a little cream, and the yelk of an egg. Let the artichokes be well covered with the batter, and fry them in lard. Sprinkle a little salt over them, and serve them on a bed of parsley fried in the lard which remains in the pan. Summer Squashes. — When these vegetables are fresh, the rind will be crisp when cut by the nail. If very young and tender they may be boiled whole, if not pare them. Extract the seeds and strings, cut them small, put them in a stewpan with water enough just to cover them, add one teaspoonful of salt to each common sized squash, boil them till the 172 VEGETABLES AND SALADS. pieces break, half an hour is generally enough, and then press them through a colander with a dim- mer. Mix them with butter to your taste, and a little salt if necessary. Stewed Spinach.— Pick the spinach very clean, and wash thoroughly through several waters. Drain it and put it in a saucepan with only the water that clings to it. Add salt and pepper and stew for twenty minutes, or till quite tender. Turn it often while stewing and press it down with a wooden spoon or ladle. When done, drain and press as dry as possible ; chop it up fine ; set it again over the fire ; add to it some pieees of butter rolled in flour, and the beaten yelks of two eggs. Simmer five minutes, and take it off without allowing it to boil. Serve upon thin slices of well-buttered toast cut in small squares. Spinach to Boil. — Spinach requires a great deal of water to free it from the grit in which it is covered from its low growth. The stalks should be broken off, and the spinach washed well with the hand. Put it into a saucepan with a little salt. A very large quantity of uncooked spinach is needed to make a dish, as it wastes considerably in cooking. Boil it for about twelve minutes, pressing it down when quite tender. Drain it thoroughly and squeeze out the water. Chop it quite small. Put it into a fresh saucepan with some butter, and stir it till it is hot. Spinach is frequently dished around minced VEGETABLES AND SALADS. 173 meats I it is also sometimes served with poached eggs upon it. Boiled Onions. — Take the outside skin from white onions as uniform in size as possible^ lay them in cold salt and water one hour^ boil them in milk and water until thoroughly tender ; lay them in a deep dish, and pour over them melted butter. Butteeed Onions. — Peel enough small onions to fill a vegetable dish ; throw them into a stewpan of boiling water ; add a little salt and a piece of fresh butter. Stew for five minutes. Drain them; put them into a saucepan with a large piece of butter, some pepper, nutmeg and salt.'‘ Toss them about over a clear fire until they begin to brown ; add a tablespoonful of gravy, and a dessertspoonful of chopped herbs. Stew gently for fifteen minutes, and serve upon cream toast. Roasted Onions. — These should be cooked in their skins ; but before putting them into the oven, brush off all grittiness. Place in a moderate oven, cooking gradually until nearly done, then quicken the oven and brown. Serve with plenty of fresh butter. Flaked Onions. — Boil two good-sized Spanish onions in plain water, put aside until cold. Flake on two forks ; season to taste. Make some butter very hot in a frying-pan, put the onions into it, and toss over the fire till brown. Drain, and serve on toast with parsley. 174 VEGETABLES AND SALADS, Onions and Caper Sauce. — Boil a dozen large onions in milk, do not press them, but simply drain them ; put them immediately into a vegetable dish, and pour over them a good caper sauce made quite hot. This is the proper way of serving onions with a dish of boiled mutton. Stewed Celery. — Wash the celery very clean, and cut it to the length that it will lie evenly in a saucepan. Cover it with water, but do not use more than necessary. Salt the water rather freely. Let the celery boil from a quarter of an hour to twenty-five minutes, according to the size of the heads. Drain it, and serve it on toast as you would asparagus. A tureen of melted butter should be served with it, or some persons prefer white sauce. Fried Celery. — Is prepared as follows: Cut olF the green tops of six or eight heads of celery, and remove the outside stalks. Wash them well and pare the roots clean. Have ready half a pint of white wine, the yelks of three eggs finely beaten, and a little salt and nutmeg, and mix them all well together with some flour into a batter. Dip every head into this batter, and fry them in butter. When sufficiently done, lay them in a dish and pour melted butter over them. Essence of Celery. — This is prepared by soaking for a fortnight a half ounce of the seeds of celery in a quarter of a pint of brandy. A few VEGETABLES AND SALADS. 176 drops will flavor a pint of soup or broth, equal to a head of celery. Vegetable Oyster Cakes. — Select good, large-sized oyster plant roots, grate them, and add milk and flour sufficient to make a stiff batter, about a gill of grated oyster plant, two eggs, one pint of milk, and flour to make the batter, and salt. Drop it by tablespoonfuls into hot lard. Bake till brown. Egg Plant. — Select long purple if possible ; the next best is the round kind with prickles on the stem. Peel and slice them, spread salt on each separate piece, and lay them in a colander to drain j let them lie one hour, parboil, and fry them, until thoroughly cooked, in pork fat or butter; egg plants, unless well cooked, are insipid, and even disgusting; they must be cooked through and browned. Boiled Beets. — Beets must not be cut before boiling, as the juice will escape and the sweetness be destroyed. Select small-sized, smooth roots, wash them nicely, and boil in clear water until tender,’ When sufficiently cooked, skim them into a pan of cold water, and slip off the skin. Cut them in thin slices, and while hot, season with butter, salt, pepper and vinegar, and serve. If preferred cold, slice lengthwise and lay in strong cold vinegar. Asparagus. — Set a stewpan with plenty of water in it on the fire ; sprinkle a handful of salt in it ; 12 176 VEGETABLES AND SALADS. let it boil, and skim it; then put in your asparagus, prepared thus : Scrape all the stalks till they are perfectly clean; throw them into a pan of cold water as you scrape them ; when they are all done, tie them up in little bundles, of about a quarter of a hundred each ; cut off the stalks at the bottom that they may be all of a length, leaving only just enough to serve as a handle for the green part; when they are tender at the stalk, which will be from twenty to thirty minutes, they are done enough. Great care must be taken to watch the exact time of their becoming tender ; take them up just at that instant, and they will have their true flavor and color ; a minute or two more boiling de- stroys both. While the asparagus is boiling, toast some bread about half an inch thick; brown it delicately on both sides; dip it lightly in the liquor the asparagus was boiled in, and lay it in the mid- dle of a dish ; melt some butter, then lay in the asparagus upon the toast, which must project be- yond the asparagus, that the company may see there is a toast. Pour no butter over them, but send some up in a deep dish. Stewed Aspabagus. — Use it as soon as possible after cutting; there are several ways of cooking this, each of which is good. Discard all not brittle enough to break easily, tie it in small bunches,^and boil it in very litlle water, slightly salted, until tender ; take off the strings, put it in a covered dish, add butter to the water sufficient to make a VEGETABLES AND SALADS. 177 rich gravy, and thicken it with very little flour, and pour the gravy over the asparagus ; be careful to lay the heads all one way. Asparagus Soup. — Cut the asparagus in pieces a half inch long, boil in water with a little salt, and add rich sweet cream to thicken the soup. Asparagus Toast. — Tie the stalks in small bunches, boil them in very little salted water until tender ; toast as many slices of bread as there are bunches of asparagus, butter them while hot, lay a bunch on each slice of toast, add a little butter to the water, and pour it over the whole. Asparagus Omelette. — Boil some tender, freshly-cut asparagus in a very little water, slightly salted, or steam till tender. Chop up very fine ; beat with it the yelks of six and the whites of three eggs, (which must be beaten separately till light ;) add two tablespoonfuls of sweet cream. Fry in butter, and serve hot. Turnips a la Poulette.— Cut the turnips into dice in a saucepan ; boil till tender, and drain. Put in the saucepan a piece of butter rolled in fiour, and stir gently over the fire ; add a gill of milk, stir again ; put in the turnips, pepper, and salt. Stew five minutes, and serve. Turnips. — Full-grown turnips will take about an hour and a half gentle boiling; if you slice them, which most people do, they will be done sooner; try them with a fork ; when tender, take them up, and 178 VEGETABLES AND SALADS. lay them on a sieve till the water is thoroughly drained from them. Send them up whole ; do not slice them. Tuenip Tops. — Boil thoroughly, with plenty of water, salt, and soda in due proportions ; drain and pass through a hair sieve. Melt a piece of butter, to which add a little flour and the pulp of your turnip tops ; stir on the fire a few minutes, adding a little milk or cream, and a little broth or stock, with pepper or grated nutmeg to taste. When a nice consistency, not too thick, dress on a dish as you would spinach, and serve with fried sippets of bread around it. If properly cooked, this dish has a better color than spinach, and a very pleasant, nutty, bitter taste. To Boil Peas. — They should be young and of a good sort. Must not be over-done, nor in much water. Boil some mint with them, and chop it to garnish them, and stir a piece of butter in with them. If either too young or too old, a little sugar boiled with them is an improvement. Green Peas. — Put into a stewpan a quart of peas, one onion, two ounces of butter, a sprig of mint, a teaspoonful of white sugar, and two table- spoonfuls of gravy ; stew till soft, when take out the onion and mint, and thicken with flour and butter. A lettuce is sometimes stewed with them. Lettuce Peas. — Having washed four lettuces and stripped off the Qutside leaves, take the hearts VEGETABLES AND SALADS. 179 and ehop them up very fine ; put them into a stew- pan with two quarts of freshly-shelled green peas, a few lumps of loaf sugar and a few leaves of green mint, finely minced. Add a slice of cold ham, and a quarter of a pound of butter, divided into four pieces and rolled in flour, two tablespoonfuls of water and a pinch of black pepper. Let all stew for half an hour, or longer, if the peas are not ten- der. Take out the ham and add half a pint of cream. Stew five minutes longer, and serve hot. To Stew Peas. — Take a quart of shelled peas, a large onion, or two of middling size, and two lettuces cut small ; put them into a saucepan with half a pint of water; season them with a little salt, a little pepper, mace, and nutmeg. Cover them close, and let them stew a quarter of an hour, then put in a quarter of a pound of fresh butter rolled in a little flour, a spoonful of catsup, and a small piece of butter as big as a nutmeg ; cover them close, and simmer gently an hour, often shak- ing the pan. Peas au Sucee. — ^Boil the peas and throw into cold water, then put them in a pan with a little butter, a tablespoonful and a half of sugar, a table- spoonful of broth, one yelk of egg ; stir fast, and they are done. Cabbage Boiled with Meat. — Select for boiling, small white cabbages with firm heads ; cut these in quarters, and wash perfectly clean. Lay 180 VEGETABLES AND SALADS. the pieces in salted water for an hour. Skin the fat from the pot when the meat is boiling, and put in the cabbage, an hour before the meat is done ; drain well before serving. To Stew Cabbage. — Parboil in jnilk and water, and drain it, then shred it, put it into a stewpan, with a small piece of butter, a small teacupful of cream, and seasoning, and stew tender. Or, it may be stewed in white or brown gravy. Cold Cabbage. — Chop fine and heat it in vinegar, season with pepper and salt ; if not boiled with meats, add a little butter. It can also be fried ; cauliflower and brocoli can be prepared in the same manner. Dkessing for Cold Slaw. — To the well-beaten yelk of one egg, add a little milk, two or three tablespoonfuls of vinegar and a small piece of butter. Stir it over the fire till it comes to a boil. Eed Cabbage Stewed. — ^After slicing a small red cabbage, and washing it perfectly clean, put it into a saucepan with pepper, salt and butter, and whatever water clings to the leaves from washing. Let it stew until perfectly tender ; add two spoon- fuls of vinegar and boil up once. Or, shred the cabbage, wash it, and put it in a saucepan over a slow fire, with slices of onion, a little gravy, ^ pepper and salt. When quite tender, add a piece of butter rolled in flour, three spoonfuls of vinegar, and boil up once before serving. VEGETABLES AND SALADS. 181 Stewed Cabbage.— Parboil in milk and water drain, shred, put it in a stewpan with a small piece of butter rolled in flour, a small teacup of cream ; season and stew till tender. Or, stew in meat gravy. Cabbage Jelly. — Boil cabbage in the usual way ; squeeze it in a colander till dry, and chop very fine. Add a little butter, pepper, and salt. Press all closely into an earthen mould, and bake one hour. Turn out of the mould and serve. Hot Slaw.^ — ^Cut cabbage into fine shreds; boil it in clear water until it is perfectly tender. Mix in a saucepan a teacupful of sharp vinegar, a piece of butter, salt and pepper ; stew gently for five minutes. Drain the cabbage, place it in a deep dish, pour the dressing over it, and serve hot. Broiled Mushrooms.— A Breakfast^ Luncheon, or Supper LisK Mushroom-flaps, pepper and salt to taste, butter, lemon-juice. Cleanse the mush- rooms by wiping them with a piece of flannel and a little salt ; cut olf a portion of the stalk, and peel the tops ; broil them over a clear fire, turning them once, and arrange them on a very hot dish. Put a small piece of butter on each mushroom, season with pepper and salt, and squeeze over them a few drops of lemon-juice. Place the dish before the fire, and when the butter is melted, serve very hot and quickly. Moderate-sized flaps are better suited to this mode of cooking than the buttons ; the latter are better in stews. 182 VEGETABLES AND SALADS. Stewed Mushrooms. — One pint of mushroom buttons, three ounces of fresh butter, white pepper and salt to taste, lemon-juice, one teaspoonful of flour, cream or milk, quarter of a teaspoonful of grated nutmeg. Cut off the ends of the stalks, and pare neatly a pint of mushroom buttons ; put them into a basin of water, with a little lemon-juice, as they are done. When all are prepared, take them from the water with the hands, to avoid the sedi- ment, and put them into a stewpan with the fresh butter, white pepper, salt, and the juice of half a lemon ; cover the pan closely, and let the mush- rooms stew gently from twenty to twenty-five minutes; then thicken the butter with the above proportion of flour, add gradually sufficient cream, or cream and milk, to make the sauce of a proper consistency, and put in the grated nutmeg. If the mushrooms are not perfectly tender, stew them for five minutes longer, remove every particle of butter which may be floating on the top, and serve. To Dry Mushrooms. — Wipe them clean, take away the brown part and peel off the skin ; lay them on sheets of paper to dry, in a cool oven, when they will shrivel considerably. Keep them in paper bags, which hang in a dry place. When wanted for use, put them into cold gravy, bring them gradually to simmer, and it will be found that they will regain nearly their usual size. Preserving Mushrooms for Winter Use.— VEGETABLES AND SALADS. 183 Peel small some freshly-gathered mushrooms, cut off the stems, and scrape out the whole of the fur, then arrange the mushrooms singly on tins or dishes, and dry them as gradually as possible in a moderately “heated oven ; put them into tin canisters and store them in a dry place. Anothee way.^ — ash large buttons, lay them on sieves, with the stalks upwards, sprinkle salt over them to extract the water | when they are drained put them into a saucepan and set them in a cool oven for an hour, then take them out care- fully and lay them by to cool and drain ; boil the liquor which comes out of them with a little sauce until reduced to half the quantity. Put the mush- rooms into a clean, dry jar, and when the liquor is cold, cover the mushroom in the jar with it and pour boiling suet over it| tie the jar well down with bladder and store it in a dry closet. Okea Stewed. — ^Cut into small, round slices, and to a quart add a wineglass of hot water, a table- spoonful of butter, into which has been rubbed a teaspoonful of flour ; salt and pepper to taste ; put into a covered stewpan and stew until tender, shak- ing occasionally. Okea Feied, — -Strain a quart already boiled, mash it smooth, and season with salt and pepper | beat in one or two eggs and add flour enough to thicken into a paste | fried as fritters, and served upon a napkin hot, as fried. 184 VEGETABLES AND SALADS. Oe:ra to Dey foe Wintee Use. — Use only the young and tender ones, quarter and string them in a dry place, they must be soaked half a day before cooking. CucuMBEE Salad. — To one hundred cucumbers add a quarter of a peck of small onions. Peel both and cut them into thin slices ; cover with salt, and stand in the sun for six hours ; rinse clean, and stand in clear cold water for one hour. For the dressing take a box of the best mustard, put into it a little salt, pour in sufficient olive oil to stir it easily, add vinegar, and oil alternately till thin enough to pour smoothly. Put the cucumbers in jars, cover with the dressing, and cover closely. Seal the jars. Salad Deessing without Oil. — ^Take the yelks of two fresh eggs, boiled hard, mash them in a plate with a silver fork, and a saltspoonful of salt, and two spoonfuls of mustard ; rub the whole well together. Add by degrees three spoonfuls of fresh cream and two of good vinegar, stirring all the time until quite smooth. Salad Deessing. — Beat together one raw egg and a saltspoonful of salt until smooth. Then in- corporate with it a teaspoonful of mustard, made rather thicker than usual. When these are quite smooth add, by degrees, one, two, or three table- spoonfuls, or even more, of good salad-oil, taking care to blend each portion of it with the egg before VEGETABLES AND SALADS. 185 adding more. This ought to make anj quantity, up to a teacupful, of a tenacious mass so, thick that a teaspoon will stand up in it, and as smooth as honey. Dilute it with vinegar till it assumes the consistence of thick cream. No salad mixture is so smooth and rich as this, and at the same time the original oily flavor is completely lost, from the raw egg converting the oil into an emulsion. A little anchovy may be added if desired. Italian Salad Dbessing. — ^Peel two well boiled potatoes and rub through a sieve, add a few shreds of raw onion, and the pounded yelks of two hard-boiled eggs. Mix these ingredients on a deep plate with two teaspoonfuls of salt, one of made mustard, three tablespoonfuls of olive oil, and one tablespopnful of vinegar ; add, lastly, a teaspoonful of essence of anchovy, mash and mix the whole together thoroughly. Having cut up a sufiiciency of lettuce (previously well washed in cold water and drained), add to it the dressing immediately before dinner, mixing with a wooden fork. Salad. — ^Look over carefully the tender half blanched leaves of head-lettuce, and cut them slightly. Make a dressing of the yelks of hard- boiled eggs, mixed mustard, black pepper, butter, and vinegar. Slice three hard-boiled eggs, lay them upon the lettuce, and pour the sauce over the whole. Potato Salad. — To make a potato salad the potatoes must be boiled and cold, cut in slices with 186 VEGETABLES AND SALADS, salt, pepper, oil, vinegar, and a little parsley. Mix the sauce, stew gently five minutes, and pour over the potatoes. Chicken Salad. — -Mince the white meat of a chicken fine, or pull it in bits ; chop the white parts of celery ; prepare a salad dressing thus ; Rub the yelks of hard-boiled eggs smooth with a spoon, put to each yelk a teaspoonful of made mustard, half as much salt, a tablespoonful of oil, and a wineglass of strong vinegar ; put the celery on a large dish, lay the chicken on that, then pour it over the dressing. Lettuce, cut small, in the place of celery, may be used. Cut the whites of the eggs in rings to garnish the salad. Turkey meat prepared in the same way makes almost as good a dish. Lobster Salad. — Boil the fish for half an hour, afterwards rubbing the shell with oil ; preserve this with the coral to garnish the dish. Extract the meat, and lay carefully on some nice white lettuce in the centre of the dish. Make a dressing of two hard-boiled eggs rubbed smooth in two tablespoon- fuls of vinegar ; add one tablespoonful of English mustard, three of salad oil, one of white powdered sugar, a teaspoonful of salt, some of black pepper, one pinch of Cayenne, and the yelks of two raw eggs ; mix together and pour over the fish, dressing with cut hard-boiled eggs, the coral, and the claws and selected parts of the shell. English Salad Sauce. — Pound in a mortar the hard-boiled yelk of an egg ; mix with it a salt- VEGETABLES AND SALADS. 187 spoonful of salt^ a tablespoonful of ground mustard, a mashed mealy potato, two dessertspoonfuls of cream, a tablespoonful of olive oil, and a tablespoon- ful of vinegar. Sweet Salad Sauce. — Mix together two table- spoonfuls of olive oil, the raw yelk of an egg, a lit- tle pepper, one tablespoonful of the best vinegar, a pinch of salt, and a dessertspoonful of moist sugar. Swiss Salad Deessing. — Pound in a mortar two ounces of cheese, add a tablespoonful of vinegar, a small quantity of salt and pepper, and, by degrees, dilute it with olive oil. PiQUANTE Sauce foe Salads. — Two hard- boiled yelks of eggs, two raw yelks of eggs, mashed smooth, with a tablespoonful each of cream and olive oil ; add sufficient vinegar to make it pretty sharp. , Mayounaise foe Salad. — Beat together the juice of a lemon and the raw yelks of two eggs ; then slowly drop in enough olive oil to make a thick cream, stirring gently and continuously while add- ing the oil. Vinegar may be used instead of lemon- juice. CHAPTER VI. PUDDINGS AND PASTRY. PUDDINGS. • A few general remarks respecting the various in- gredients of which puddings are composed, may be acceptable as preliminary to the receipts in this de- partment. Flour should be of the best quality, and perfectly dry, and sifted before being used ; if in the least damp, the paste made from it will certainly be heavy. Buttery unless fresh is used, should be ^washed from the salt, and well squeezed and wrung in a cloth, to get out all the water and buttermilk, which, if left in, assists to make the paste heavy. Lard should be perfectly sweet, which may be ascertained by cutting the bladder through, and, if the knife smells sweet, the lard is good. Suet should be finely chopped, perfectly free from skin, and quite sweet ; during the process of chop- ping, it should be lightly dredged with flour, which prevents the pieces from sticking together. Beef suet is considered the best, but veal suet, or the out- side fat of a loin or neck of mutton, makes good 188 PUBBIKGS AND PASTRY. 189 crusts, as also the skimmings in which a joint of mutton has been boiled, but without vegetables. Clarified Beef Dripping answers very well for kitchen pies, puddings, cakes, or for family use. A very good short crust may be made by mixing with it a small quantity of moist sugar ; but care must be taken to use the dripping sparingly, or a very dis- agreeable flavor will be imparted to the paste. The freshness of all pudding ingredients is of much importance, as one bad article will taint the whole mixture. When the freshness of eggs is doubtful, break each one separately in a cup before mixing them all together. Should there be a bad one amongst them, it can be thrown away ; whereas, if mixed with the good ones, the entire quantity would be spoiled. The yelks and whites beaten separately make the articles they are put into much lighter. Raisins and dried fruits for puddings should be carefully picked, and, in many cases, stoned. Cur- rants should be well washed, pressed in a cloth, and placed on a dish before the fire to get thoroughly dry; they should then be picked carefully over, and every piece of grit or stone removed from amongst them. To plump them, some cooks pour boiling water over them, and then dry them before the fire. Batter pudding should be smoothly mixed and tree from lumps. To insure this, first mix the flour with a very small proportion of milk, and add the 190 PUDDINGS AND PASTRY. remainder by degrees. Should the pudding be very lumpy, it may be strained through a hair sieve. All boiled puddings should be put on in boiling watevy which must not be allowed to stop simmer- ing, and the pudding must always be covered with the water ; if requisite, the saucepan should be kept filled up. To prevent a pudding boiled in a cloth from sticking to the bottom of the saucepan, place a small plate or saucer underneath it, and set the pan on a trivet over the fire. If a mould is used, this precau- tion is not necessary, but care must be taken to keep the pudding well covered with water. For dishing a boiled pudding as soon as it comes out of the pot, dip it into a basin of cold water, and the cloth will then not adhere to it. Great expedi- tion is necessary in sending puddings to table, as, by standing, they quickly become heavy, batter puddings particularly. For baked or boiled puddings, the moulds, cups, or basins should be always buttered before the mix- ture is put in them, and they should be put into the saucepan directly after they are filled. Scrupulous attention should be paid to the clean- liness of pudding-cloths, as, from neglect in this par- ticular, the outsides of boiled puddings frequently taste very disagreeable. As soon as possible after it is taken off the pudding, it should be soaked in water, and then well washed without soap, unless it be very greasy. It should be dried out of doors. PUDDINGS AND PASTRY. 191 then folded up, and kept in a dry place. When wanted for use, dip it in boiling water, and dredge it slightly with flour. The dry ingredients for puddings are better for being mixed some time before they are wanted ; the liquid portion should only be added just before the pudding is put into the saucepan. A pinch of salt is an improvement to the gener- ality of puddings; but this ingredient should be added very sparingly, as the flavor should not be detected. When baked puddings are sufficiently solid, turn them out of the dish they were baked in, bottom uppermost, and strew over them, flne sifted sugar. When baked puddings are not done through, and yet the outside is sufficiently brown, cover them over with a piece of white paper until thoroughly cooked ; this prevents them from getting burnt. All batter puddings fall soon after they are baked. They ought to be served immediately after they are done. Indian puddings require long and slow baking. Rice should be baked quickly. Tapioca and other puddings of the kind should bake in a moderate oven like custards. All cake puddings should be baked in the same manner as cakes of nearly the same composition ; as, for instance, sponge puddings quick, and' plum puddings a long time. St. Claire Pudding. — Boil one quart of milk with sugar and lemon-peel to taste, and a pinch of powdered cinnamon ; add one ounce of dissolved 13 192 PUDDINGS AND PASTEY. isinglass or gelatine. When boiling, add the yelks of four eggs, well beaten. Fill a mould ; stand it in water and boil fifteen minutes. Put it on the ice for two hours. Make a sauce of sugar and wine, thickened with a little arrowroot, and stand also on the ice. Pour over the pudding when it is turned out of the mould. Ice Pudding. — Take one pint of cream, half a pint of milk, the yelks of four eggs, one ounce of sweet almonds pounded, and half a pound of sugar; put them in a stewpan on a gentle fire, and stir the mixture until the cream sets about the consistency of custard. When cold, add two wineglasses of brandy; freeze, and when sufficiently congealed, add one pound of preserved fruits, with a few cur- rants ; cut the fruit small, and mix well with the ice. Let it remain to set in the moulding pots, and keep it in ice till required for the table. Half-pay Pudding. — Quarter pound of suet, quarter pound of currants, quarter pound of rai- sins, quarter pound of fiour, quarter pound of bread crumbs, two tablespoonfuls of molasses, half a pint of milk. Chop the suet finely; mix with it the currants (which should be nicely washed and dried), the raisins (which should be stoned), the fiour, bread crumbs, and molasses ; moisten with the milk, beat up the ingredients until all are thoroughly mixed, put them into a buttered basin, and boil the pud- ding for three and a half hours. PUDDINGS AND PASTEY. 193 Minute Pudding. — Mix five tablespoonfuls of flour with half a pint of cold sweet milk, a very little salt, one-fourth of a nutmeg ; stir it into a pint and a half of boiling sweet milk ; boil one minute, stirring constantly ; set it ofi* from the fire until it gets lukewarm ; add three beaten eggs ; stir until it boils, and eat with cream and sugar. Queen Pudding. — One pint of nice fine bread crumbs, one quart of milk, one cup of sugar, the yelks of four eggs beaten, the grated rind of a lemon, a piece of butter the size of an egg. Bake until done, but not watery. Whip the whites of the eggs stiff, beat in a teacupful of sugar in which has been strained the juice of the lemon, spread over the pudding a layer of jelly, pour the whites of the eggs over this ; replace in the oven ; bake lightly. To be eaten cold, with cream, if preferred. Geay Pudding. — Take three eggs, weigh them in the shell ; take an equal weight of sugar and of butter, and two-thirds of the weight of flour. Half melt the butter, and beat it to a cream ; beat the eggs also, and mix them with the butter and sugar, beating the whole to a froth ; then add the flour and the rind of a lemon, grated ; beat all together and pour it into a mould. An hour will boil it. Cottage Pudding. — A pound and a quarter of flour, fourteen ounces of suet, a pound and a quar- ter of stoned raisins, four ounces of currants, five of sugar, a quarter pound of potatoes smoothly 194 PUDDINGS AND PASTRY, mashed, half a nutmeg, a quarter teaspoonful of ginger, the same of salt, and of cloves in powder ; mix the ingredients thoroughly ; add four well beaten eggs with a quarter pint of milk, tie the pudding in a well-floured cloth, and boil it for four hours. Soyer’s New Christmas Pudding. — This re- ceipt, if closely followed, would, at this festive sea- son of the year, save tons of fruit and other expen- sive ingredients, which are partly wasted for the want of knowing how to turn them to the best ad- vantage. This pudding will be found sufficient for eight persons after a Christmas dinner. Carefully prepare the following, previous to mixing the pud- ding : Four ounces of stoned raisins, four ounces of sultanas, half a pound of well-cleaned currants, half a pound of beef suet chopped fine, two ounces of powdered white sugar, two ounces of flour, half a pound of bread crumbs, twelve bitter almonds blanched, chopped small, half a nutmeg grated, two ounces of candied citron, the peel of half a small lemon chopped fine, separately, put in a basin, break over four eggs, and add half a gill of brandy. Mix these all well the evening before wanted, cover over till the morning, and when all is prepared, add half a gill of milk, again well stir your pudding ; slightly butter a cloth, sprinkle a little flour over, put it in a basin, pour in the mixture, tie your cloth in the usual way, not too tight ; put in half a gallon of boiling water, add more now and then, PUDDINGS AND PASTRY. 195 if required; let it simmer two hours and thirty minutes, turn out of the cloth and serve on a hot dish. Serve plain, if preferred, or with the sauce only. After which, when at the dining-room door, pour round a gill of either brandy or rum, which set on fire with a piece of paper ; place the dish on the table, let burn half a minute, and pour the fol- lowing sauce over from the sauce-boat ; after which cut seven or eight slices from the pudding cross- wise, or according to number, when help, and serve very hot. The sauce I prefer with it is as follows : Make half a pint of ordinary plain melted butter, rather thick, add to it two teaspoonfuls of sugar, the juice of half a lemon, and a pat of butter ; stir quickly, pour over your pudding when very hot, or serve the sauce separately in a sauce-boat. Though the above pudding is not very expensive, it requires a little time and attention to do it prop- erly; and well will be repaid the housewife who will take the trouble, as above described. In the event of some of the ingredients, such as almonds, candied orange or lemon-peel, not being obtainable in some country places, the pudding will still be good, although not so delicate in flavor. Christmas Pudding. — One pound of raisins, one pound of currants, one pound of suet, three- quarters of a pound of bread crumbs, one pint of milk, ten eggs, three-quarters of a pound of citron and orange-peel mixed, one small nutmeg, one glass of brandy. Stone the raisins and divide them. 196 PUDDINGS AND PASTKY. wash and dry the currants^ and cut the peel Into slices. Mix all these with the bread crumbs, flour and suet, chopped very fine ; add the grated nut- meg, and then stir in the eggs well beaten, the brandy, and the milk. When the ingredients are well blended, put it into a mould, tie a floured cloth over it, and boil it six hours. When done turn it out, and serve it with brandy and arrowroot sauce. Plum Pudding. — Four eggs, about one dozen crackers, one pint of new milk, one teacup of but- ter, half a pound of sugar, one pound of raisins, one pound of prunes, a grated nutmeg. Bake about an hour. Suet Plum Pudding. — One cup of molasses, one cup of finely-chopped suet, one cup of milk, three cups of flour, one cup of stoned raisins ; add currants and citron, if liked ; one teaspoonful of soda, one teaspoonful of ground cloves and cinna- mon, one nutmeg. Tie up loosely in your pud- ding-bag, and boil three or four hours. Eat with wine sauce. Barbara’s Plum Pudding. — One cup of chop- ped suet, one cup of chopped apples, one cup of molasses, two cups of raisins, one cup of sweet or sour milk, four cups of flour, quarter of a teaspoon- ful of saleratus, and a little salt. Boil or steam five hours. Rich Plum Pudding without Flour. — One PUDDINGS AND PASTRY. 197 pound and a half of grated bread, one pound and a half of raisins, one pound and a half of currants, one pound of beef suet, peel of one large lemon, three ounces of almonds, a little nutmeg or mixed spice, sugar to taste, three-quarters of a pound of candied orange, lemon, and citron, eight or nine eggs, half a pint of milk, two wineglassfuls of brandy. Stone the raisins, wash and pick the cur- rants, chop the suet very fine, and mix with them a pound and a half of grated bread ; add the candied peel cut into shreds, the almonds blanched and minced, and the mixed spice and sugar t© taste. When all are thoroughly blended, stir it well to- gether with eight or nine well beaten eggs, two glassfuls of brandy, and half a pint of milk, tie it in a cloth, and boil it for five hours or five hours and a half, or divide it into equal parts, and boil it in moulds or basins for half the time. Cottage Plum Pudding. — A pound and a half of flour, four or five eggs, a pinch of salt, a little nutmeg, one pound of raisins, half a pound of currants, sugar to taste, and a little milk. Make a thick batter with five well beaten eggs, a pound and a half of flour, and a sufficient quantity of milk. Then add the currants, washed and picked, the rai- sins stoned, a little nutmeg, and sugar to taste. Mix all well together, and boil it in a basin or floured cloth for quite five hours. The peel of a lemon grated, and a few pieces of citron cut thin may be added. 198 PUDDINGS AND PASTEY* Unrivalled Plum Pudding— Two and a half pounds of raisins^ one and three-quarters of a pound of currants, two pounds of the finest moist sugar, two pounds of bread crumbs, sixteen eggs, two pounds of finely-chopped suet, six ounces of mix candied peel, the rind of two lemons, one ounce of ground nutmeg, one ounce of ground cinnamon, half an ounce of pounded bitter almonds, quarter of a pint of brandy. Stone and cut up the raisins, but do not chop them ; wash and dry the currants, and cut the candied peel into thin slices. Mix all the dry ingredients well together, and moisten them with the eggs, which should be well beaten and strained ; then stir in the brandy, and, when all is thoroughly mixed, well butter and flour a stout new pudding cloth ; put in the pud-- ding, tie it down very tightly and closely, boil from six to eight hours, and serve with brandy sauce,. This quantity may be divided and boiled in buttered moulds. For small families this is the most desir- able way, as the above will be found to make a pudding of large dimensions. Christmas Plum Pudding. — A pound of suet, cut in pieces not too fine, a pound of currants, and a pound of raisins stoned, four eggs, half a grated nutmeg, an ounce of citron and lemon-peel, shred fine, a teaspoonful of beaten ginger, half a pound of bread crumbs, half a pound of flour, and a pint of milk ; beat the eggs first, add half the milk, beat them together, and by degrees stir in the flour, then PUDDINGS AND PASTEY. 199 the su.et^ spice, and fruit, and as much milk as will mix it together very thick ; then take a clean cloth, dip in boiling water, and squeeze dry. While the water is boiling fast, put in your pudding, which should boil at least five hours. Apple Pudding.— Pare four or five large tart apples, grate thelm fine ; then make the following custard, into which stir the grated apple : Flour, four tablespoonfuls; one pint of milk, five eggs, and a little grated orange-peel. After you have these ingredients well mixed, pour them into your pudding-dish, and bake about one hour and a quarter. Boiled Apple Pudding, — Make a butter-crust, or a suet one, using for a moderate-sized pudding from three-quarters to one pound of flour, with the other ingredients in proportion. Butter a basin ; line it with some of the paste ; pare, core and cut the apples into slices, and fill the basin with these ; add sugar to taste, flavor with lemon-peel and juice, and cover with crust; pinch the edges together, flour the cloth, place it over the pudding, tie it securely, and put it into plenty of fast-boiling wmter. Let it boil from one and a half to two and a half hours, according to the size ; then turn it out of the basin, and send it to table quickly. Apple puddings may also be boiled in a cloth without a basin ; but, when made in this way, must be served without the least delay, as the crust so soon becomes heavy. 200 PUDDINGS AND PASTRY, Baked Apple Pudding. — Four large apples boiled, some grated bread, four ounces of butter, four yelks and two whites of eggs well beaten, sugar to taste ; edge a dish with pufip-paste, and bake half an hour. Eich Sweet Apple Pudding. — Half a pound of bread crumbs, half a pound of sjiet, half a pound of currants, half a pound of apples, half a pound of moist sugar, six eggs, twelve sweet almonds, half k saltspoonful of grated nutmeg, one wineglassful of brandy. Chop the suet very fine ; wash the currants, dry them, and pick away the stalks and pieces of grit • pare, core and chop the apple, and grate the bread into fine crumbs, and mince the almonds. Mix all these ingredients together, adding the sugar and nutmeg ; beat up the eggs, omitting the whites of three ; stir these to the pudding, and when all is well mixed add the brandy, and put the pudding into a buttered mould; tie down with a cloth, put it into boiling water, and let it boil for three hours. Pippin Pudding. — Boil six apples well; take out the cores, put in half a pint of milk thickened with three eggs, a little lemon-peel, and sugar to the taste ; put puff-paste around your dish, bake it in a slow oven, grate sugar over it and serve it hot. Another. — Take the pulp of two large roasted apples, the peel and juice of one lemon, the yelks of six eggs, two Savoy biscuits grated, a quarter of PUDDINGS AND PASTEY. 201 a pound of butter melted, and sugar to your taste. Beat the ingredients together, put a puff-paste around your dish, and bake it. Apple Eoll. — Make a paste with one-fourth of a pound of butter to one of flour mixed with water, not very stiff. Peel and slice rather thick, tart apples, roll the paste very thin, or as thin as the bottom crust of a pie; spread the apples on the crust, so as to cover it, dredge on a little flour, and roll it as tight as possible. Cut the ends even, and put it in the steamer, or wrap it in thick cloth and boil it. It will take one hour steady cooking. Serve with butter and sugar ; cut it in thin slices from the end when serving. CocoANUT Pudding — Half a pound of loaf- sugar, half a pound of butter, half a cocoanut, grated, the whites of six eggs, one tablespoonful of rose water, two tablespoonfuls of brandy. Pare the brown skin off the nut, wash it in cold water, wipe it dry, and grate it. After the butter has been prepared as for lady-cake, and the sugar pounded fine, beat them to a cream; whisk the whites of the eggs until stiff and dry, and add to the butter and sugar; stir the whole well together^ and add gradually the nut, brandy and rose-water — then stir well, but do not beat it. Bake on rich pastry, without a top crust. Fine Cocoanut Pudding. — Pare the dark rind from one cocoanut and grate the meat. Break into 202 PUDDINGS AND PASTEY. a bowl six eggs^ adding a heavy tablespoonful of sugar for each egg. When very light, pour in a pint of cream or milk to stir in the cocoanut. Melt a teacup half full of butter and add to it, with a small portion of soda. Put a puff-paste into your dish, and fill it with the mixture. Cocoanut Custaed Pudding. — Grate half a cocoanut meat ; stir it into a good custard, and bake in a buttered basin. Make the custard of four eggs to a quart of milk. This may be baked with an under crust. A quick oven for this — thirty or forty minutes. Serve with the following wine sauce : One cup of butter, one cup of sugar ; stir to a cream ; then one cup of wine added slowly. Put the bowl into a vessel of hot water, one half hour before using it. It must not be stirred. Cocoanut Cup Puddings. — Melt two ounces of butter, cut small, stirring in two ounces of sifted sugar ; boil up for a minute. When cool, grate in two ounces of cocoanut, add two ounces of shred citron, the grated rind of a lemon, and four eggs ; beat with the juice of half a lemon. Mix, and put into well-buttered coffee cups, and bake half an hour. The same may be made as one pudding in a dish, and baked longer. Lemon Pudding. — To a pint of new milk boiled, add two spoonfuls of flour, and boil till smooth ; then stir in a quarter of a pound of butter and four well beaten eggs, add the peel of a lemon shred PUDDINGS AND PASTKY. 203 very fine, and sweeten to your taste; line a dish with very light puff-paste, pour in the mixture, and bake half an hour. Excellent Lemon Pudding. — Beat the yelks of four eggs ; add four ounces of white sugar, the rind of a lemon being rubbed with some lumps of it to take the essence ; then peel, and beat it in a mortar with the juice of a lemon, and mix all with four or five ounces of butter warmed. Put a crust into a shallow dish, nick the edges, and put the above into it. When served, turn the pudding out of the dish. Iced Lemon Pudding. — Quarter of a pound of butter, half a pound of sugar, the yelks of five eggs, one quart of milk, one lemon, the rind grated and juice pressed out, six tablespoonfuls of grated bread or cracker. When the pudding is baked, take the whites of the eggs and sugar and beat for icing. Spread over the top and brown in the oven ; it will brown in a few minutes. Baked Lemon Pudding. — One teacupful of boiling water, one tablespoonful of corn-flour, mixed with a little water, one teacupful of sifted sugar, one tablespoonful of butter, one egg, juice and rind of one lemon. Pour this mixture into the boiling water ; then pour it on to the butter and sugar ; beat the egg, and, when cool, put it in ; have the paste ready in the dishes, and pour it in and bake. 204 PUDDINGS AND PASTEY. Sponge Pudding. — Butter a mould thickly and fill it three parts full with small sponge cakes, soaked through with wine ; fill up the mould with a rich cold custard. Butter a paper and put on the mould, then tie a floured cloth over it quite close, and boil it an hour. Turn ou^. the pudding care- fully, and pour some cold custard over it ; or bake it and serve with wine sauce instead of custard. Baked Sponge Pudding. — Cream together a quarter of a pound of butter and two ounces of pow- dered white sugar, then add four eggs and two table- spoonfuls of flour ; beat it slowly. Fill six small cups and bake them twenty minutes. Claea^s Sponge Pudding. — One cup of sugar, one egg, one cup of sweet milk, three cups of flour, one teaspoonful of soda, two of cream of tartar, half a one of salt. Steam two and a half hours. Boiled Fig Pudding. — A quarter of a pound of figs, half a pound of suet, a cupful of bread crumbs, four eggs, a breakfastcupful of milk. Mix the suet, figs, and bread together ; boil the milk and pour over them. Now beat the eggs and pour over the other ingredients. Let the mixture stand a lit- tle while, then put it into shape, boil it for two hours, and serve with cream or sweet sauce. Fig Pudding. — Procure one pound of good figs, and chop them very fine, and also a quarter pound of suet, likewise chopped as fine as possible. Dust them both with a little flour as you proceed, it helps PUDDINGS AND PASTRY. 206 to bind the pudding together. Then take one pound of fine bread crumbs, and not quite a quarter pound of sugar ; beat two eggs in a teacupful of milk, and mix all well together ; boil four hours. If you choose, serve it with wine or brandy sauce, and ornament it w’th blanched almonds. Simply cooked, however, it is better where there are chil- dren, with whom it is generally a favorite. We forgot to say, flavor with a little allspice or nutmeg, as you like ; but add the spice before the milk and eggs. Eaisin Pudding. — Soak two ounces of raisins in enough brandy to cover them. Take half a pound of flour, half a pound of chopped suet, a des- sertspoonful of ground ginger, two eggs, four ounces of white sugar, and enough milk to make it a pretty light paste ; add the raisins and brandy, put it into a cloth or basin, boil it for two hours, and serve with what pudding sauce you please. Boiled Eaisin Pudding. — Mix together half a pound each of stoned raisins, chopped suet, and bread crumbs ; add four well beaten eggs, a teacup- ful of milk, a little salt, and a spoonful of grated ginger. Boil it for four hours in a buttered mould or floured cloth. Pour a little brandy over it before serving. Plain Eaisin Pudding. — One pound of raisins, stoned, one pound of beef-suet, shred fine, eight eggs, quarter pound of flour, two spoonfuls of milk, 206 PUDDINGS AND PASTRY. a little ginger and salt ; brandy to your taste. Mix all well together, tie up in a cloth, and boil four hours. Fruit Eaised Pudding. — When baking take two and a half cups of light dough, one of sugar, hardly three-fourths of a cup of butter, two eggs, half a teaspoonful of soda, one glass of wine or brandy, cinnamon, cloves, and nutmeg, being care- ful not to let one spice predominate ; a half pound of washed currants, the same of stoned raisins, and a quarter of a pound of citron, chopped fine. Let it stand until light in the pudding-dish ; bake care- fully, so as not to form a heavy crust ; turn it out when baked, and pour over it while hot a rich wine sauce. This will be found excellent. It must be started very early in the morning. If home-made yeast is used the dough can be saved until the next day. Sweeten it with soda before mixing in the other ingredients, and allow it to rise again. Tomato Pudding. — Pour boiling water on toma- toes, remove the skins, put in the bottom of the pud- ding-dish some bread crumbs, then slice the tomatoes on them, season with sugar, butter, pepper, and salt; add some more bread crumbs, then the slicedloma- toes and seasoning, and if the tomato does not wet I the bread crumbs add a little water ; then, for a jj small pudding, beat up two eggs and pour over the i top. Bake about twenty minutes. I Caromel Pudding. — Seven ounces of sugar dis- | PUDDINGS AND PASTKY. 207 solved in a pan in water and burnt. Line the inside of a well buttered new tin with a coating of this. In another pan, one pint of sweetened new milk, the yelks of seven eggs, and the whites of two, beaten together ; boil the milk, pour it upon the eggs, and stir well together. Pour this into the sugar-lined tin, put the tin into a pan with three inches of water, and steam it for three-quarters of an hour. When quite cold turn out into a dish, and serve. Cassandpa Pudding. — ^Three tablespoonfuls of flour, three eggs, quarter of a pound of moist sugar, three-quarters of a pound of raisins, stewed and chopped fine, and half a pound of chopped suet. Mix well and boil three hours and a half in a well floured bag. Bkighton Pudding. — Three eggs, quarter of a pound of sugar, quarter of a pound of flour, quarter of a pound of butter, and the peel of a lemon, finely minced or grated. Beat the sugar and eggs for twenty minutes, oil the butter and beat in gradually, and sift in the flour slowly, beating steadily while mixing. Steam the pudding for one hour, and serve with preserved fruit. Golden Pudding. — Quarter of a pound of bread crumbs, quarter of a pound of suet, quarter of a pound of marmalade, quarter of a pound of sugar, four eggs. Put the bread crumbs into a basin, mix with them the suet, which should be finely minced, 14 208 PUDDINGS AND PASTEY. the marmalade, and the sugar. Stir all these ingre- dients well together, beat the eggs to a froth, moisten the pudding with these, and when mixed put it into a mould or buttered basin ; tie down with a floured cloth, and boil for two hours. When turned out, strew a little fine sifted sugar over the top and serve. The mould may be ornamented with stoned raisins, arranged in any fanciful pattern, before the mixture is poured in, which would add very much to the appearance of the pudding. For a plainer pudding double the quantities of the bread crumbs ; and if the eggs do not moisten sufiiciently use a little milk. Luncheon Pudding. — A teacupful of cream, the same of butter, well beaten, and a little salt, made into a stiff batter with flour, so that it will just pour out; tie it in a cloth, and boil two hours. Moulded Pudding. — Beat lightly the yelks of ten eggs and the whites of six with three-quarters of a pound of sugar, the rind of an orange, or two lemons grated, six and a half ounces of flour; add one pint of boiling milk. When nearly cold, mix in the eggs and sugar, and add a wineglassful of brandy, and half a pound of melted butter. Bake it an hour and a quarter, and turn it out. Stale Loaf Pudding. — Take a three quart pudding-dish, fill two-thirds full of broken bread, pour boiling water over it, and let it stand till soft enough to stir up fine ; then add three well beaten eggs, salt to taste ; fill up the pan with water and PUDDINGS AND PASTEY. 209 bake. When done, make a sauce with butter and sugar mashed together and flavored with lemon or nutmeg. It is very nice made with the sweetening and rice baked in. Indian and rice are good made in the same way. Milk is quite unnecessary for such things when you can get eggs. Faemee’s PuDDiNG.—Take one pint of bread crumbs, one quart of milk, half a cup of sugar, four eggs, taking only the yelks, butter the size of a wal- nut, one lemon, grated ; bake until done, but not watery; then spread a layer of currant-jelly or any preserved fruit over it. Take the whites of the eggs and sugar, in which has been stirred the juice of the lemon, beat to a stiff froth, pour it over the pudding, and brown it. Serve cold with cream. It can be made without a lemon. Flavor with nutmeg. Steamboat Pudding. — One quart of milk, six eggs, quarter of a pound of seeded raisins, quarter of a pound of currants, sugar to the taste. Beat the eggs and add them to the milk with the fruit ; pour it in a pudding-dish, cover the top with slices of bread, well buttered. First dip the bread in the milk, so as it may be brown when it is baked. This is generally eaten cold. It may be flavored with lemon or vanilla. Teeacle Pudding.— Four ounces each of flour, suet, currants, raisins, and bread crumbs, two table- spoonfuls of treacle, and half a pint of milk. Mix all well together, and boil in a mould three hours. Serve with wine or brandy sauce. 210 PUDDINGS AND PASTRY. Rich Pudding. — Line a deep pie-dish with puff- paste, having first buttered it thoroughly, place on this a layer of jam, then a layer of custard, then jam, then custard, until the dish is nearly full, leaving the custard layer at the top. Slice the minced peel and cut it into diamonds and arrange on the top. Bake for twenty minutes in a quiet oven, let the pudding cool, beat up the whites of the eggs that were used for the custard into a^stiff whip with a little powdered sugar ; pile the whip on as high as possible, and serve. Economical Pudding. — Take two tablespoon- fuls of rice, put it into a small saucepan with as much water as the rice will absorb. When boiled enough add a pinch of salt, then set it by the fire until the rice is quite soft and dry. Throw it up in a dish, add two ounces of butter, four tablespoon- fuls of tapioca, a pint and a half of milk, sugar to the taste, a little grated nutmeg, and two eggs beaten up. Let it all be well stirred together and baked an hour. Family Pudding. — One pound of flour, one pound of suet, chopped fine, three-quarters of a pound of sugar, one pound each of carrots and pota- toes, well boiled and mashed together, half a pound of raisins, three-quarters of a pound of bread crumbs; spice, flavoring, and peel optional. Mix the whole | well together with a little water. It must not be | too stiff, and certainly not too moist. Rub a basin !l well with dripping, and boil for eight hours. PUDDINGS AND PASTEY. 211 Floue Pudding. — Four spoonfuls of flour, six eggs, two pints of milk. Line a basin with buttered paper, and boil an hour. Simple Pudding. — Three-quarters of a pound of flour, one pint of new milk, four eggs, whites well beaten, a pinch of salt. Boil it for one hour and a half. Suet Pudding. — One pint of sweet milk, one cup of sour milk, four eggs, one cup of sugar, two cups of chipped suet, one teaspoonful of soda, a piece of butter the size of a small egg, raisins or currants or dried fruit, flour to make a stiff batter. Boil three hours. Liquid sauce. Boiled Suet Pudding. — One cup of finely chopped suet, one of molasses, one of milk, sweet or sour, one of raisins or currants, three cups of flour, one teaspoonful of salt, one teaspoonful and a half of soda, one of every kind of spice, part of nutmeg. Boil four hours ; tie up loosely. Wine sauce. Tapioca Pudding. — Four large tablespoonfuls of tapioca soaked over night in one quart of new milk, grated rind of one lemon, one tumbler of sweet cream, one half of a tumbler of wine, with sugar enough in it to fill the glass. Stir the tapioca and milk over the fire until it comes to a boil, before adding any of the other ingredients; four eggs, beaten separately, and added just before baking; bakes in about five minutes. To be eaten cold. 212 PUDDINGS AND PASTRY. Arrowroot Pudding. — Mix a tablespoonful of arrowroot in two of cold milk ; pour it into a pint of boiling milk, in which dissolve a teacupful of white sugar ; stir it constantly, and add a little mace, or any other kind of spice, and four eggs ; bake it half an hour in a dish lined with paste. If it is pre- ferred to look clear, substitute water instead of milk, and add one more egg. Potato Suet Pudding. — Take a pound of mealy potatoes, boiled and mashed smooth ; add four ounces of chopped beef suet, three eggs, a little milk, sugar to taste, and a good dessertspoonful of pow- dered ginger. Put it into a well floured cloth and boil for an hour. Serve, turned into a dish, with saffron or sweet sauce poured over it. Boiled Indian Pudding. — Take sweet milk of sufficient quantity for the pudding desired ; salt to the taste, and stir in Indian meal till a little milk will rise on the top by standing. If too thick it will be hard. , Fill a pudding crock, and tie a cloth tightly over it. Put into boiling water suf- ficient to keep it covered, and boil steadily three hours. Fruit may be added, if desired. Serve with sweetened cream. This is an old-fashioned Connecticut pudding. Corn-Meal Pudding. — Two quarts of sweet milk, one pint of corn-meal, one-half pint of beef suet or fat pork, chopped fine, three eggs, and a little nutmeg and salt ; sweeten to your taste with PUDDINGS AND PASTRY. 213 sugar. Heat the milk, and, while hot, stir in the meal ; after this, set it where it will cool, and then add the eggs. Bake from three to fours in a slow oven. Indian-Meal Pudding. — Into one quart of boiling milk stir one quart of sifted fine meal ; then add one quart of cold milk, two well beaten eggs, one-half cup of sugar, one cup of fiour, and a little salt and spice. Stir it well and pour it into a but- tered dish. Bake two hours, and serve with butter. Pound Pudding. — Take half a pound of fresh butter and an equal weight of sugar, beat the butter to a cream, then add six very well whisked eggs, half a pound of fiour, four ounces of currants, two ounces of candied lemon-peel, shred fine, and a little lemon-juice. Beat all together for a quarter of an hour, put it into a buttered mould, and boil it for two hours and a half. Potato Pudding. — One pound of potatoes, boiled, half a pound of fresh butter, half a pound of sugar, the yelks of six eggs, and whites of three, one gill of cream, one gill of wine, one teaspoonful of mace, and one nutmeg. Bake in pufi-paste. Biscuit Pudding. — Crumble four moderate-sized biscuits in two pints of sweet milk, take a piece of butter the size of an egg, one cup of sugar, three eggs, beat them separate, and pour the white on top. Add a little nutmeg ; bake half an hour. 214 PUDDINGS AND PASTRY. Macaroni Pudding. — Take three-quarters of a pound of macaroni, boil it till quite soft. Add half a pound of sugar, a quarter of a pound of currants, and juice of one lemon; bake till browned. A simple mode of cooking macaroni, or tapioca, is to sweeten and boil till soft. Add the juice of a lemon, and turn into a mould till cool. Cake Pudding.^ — One cup of butter, two of sugar, one of milk, five eggs, two teaspoonfuls of cream of tartar, one of soda, three and a half cups of flour. Flavor to taste. Sago Pudding. — One pint of milk, three table- spoonfuls of sago, one half cup of butter, one cup of sugar, four eggs. Soak the sago in water two hours ; then put the milk on the stove and stir the sago in ; add the butter and sugar after it is cold ; stir in the whites and yelks of the eggs beaten separately. Crumb Pudding. — The yelks and whites of three eggs, beaten separately, one ounce of moist sugar, and sufficient bread crumbs to make it into a thick, but not stiff mixture; a little powdered cinnamon. Beat all together for five minutes, and bake in a buttered tin. When baked, turn it out of the tin, pour two glasses of boiling wine over it, and serve. Cherries, either fresh or preserved, are very nice mixed in the pudding. Custard Pudding. — One quart of new milk, three eggs, half a pound of sugar, a little salt, pour PUDDINGS AND PASTEY. 216 these into your pudding-dish, mix well, slice some bread, and butter it, and lay the thin slices over the top of your pudding. Bake about one hour. Cup Puddings (without Eggs). — Beat three ounces of fresh butter to cream, mix with it three ounces of baked flour, three ounces of sifted loaf- sugar, three ounces of currants, and three table- spoons of cream ; beat the whole for ten minutes. Butter six or seven small moulds, pour the mixture in till they are three parts full, and bake them in a quick oven for twenty minutes. Serve with wine sauce. Cold Cup Puddings. — Grate the rind of a lemon into a pint of cream (or new milk), let it just boil, and strain it. When cool, beat the yelks of six eggs, and add them to the above, with crushed lump sugar to sweeten it. Pour the mixture into six cups, and steam for half an hour. Next day turn out and garnish with currant jelly or other preserves. Gkeen Coen Pudding. — One dozen ears of corn, grated, three eggs, well beaten, one pint of sweet milk, half a cupful of butter, one large spoon- ful of sugar, pepper and salt. Bake in a large pudding-pan two hours. Caeeot Pudding, Baked. — Take half a pound of grated raw carrot, half a pound of bread crumbs, the yelks of four eggs and the whites of two, a little sugar and nutmeg, a gill each of white wine and 216 PUDDINGS AND PASTRY. cream ; mix all well together, lay a puff-paste over your dish ; put in your pudding and bake for an hour. Chocolate Pudding. — Put one quart of milk on to boil ; take an ounce and a half of chocolate and grate it, mix it with a little cold milk. Then take the boiled milk and stir into it the chocolate, and set it to cool; when nearly cool stir in the beaten yelks of six eggs. Flavor with vanilla sweetened to taste, and bake until of the consistency of custard. Beat the whites of the eggs to a froth with six spoonfuls of powdered sugar, pile it lightly on top of the pudding, replace in the* oven, and brown. Rice Pudding. — To one cup of boiled rice add half a cup of butter, five eggs, sugar to taste, and cream enough to make it liquid. Flavor with essence of lemon, and bake in rich paste in deep pudding dishes. Boiled Batter Pudding. — Three eggs, one ounce of butter, one pint of milk, three tablespoon- fuls of flour, a little salt. Put the flour into a basin, and add sufficient milk to moisten it. Carefully rub down all the lumps with a spoon, then pour in the remainder of the milk, and stir in the butter, which should be previously melted. Keep beating the mixture, add the eggs and a pinch of salt, and when the batter is quite smooth put into a well but- tered basin, tie it down very tightly, and put it into PUDDINGS AND PASTEY. 217 boiling water. Move the basin about for a few min- utes after it is put into the water, to prevent the flour settling in any part, and boil for one hour and a quarter. This pudding may also be boiled in a floured cloth that has been wetted in hot water ; it will then take a few minutes less than when boiled in a basin. Send these puddings very quickly to table, and serve with sweet sauce, wine sauce, stewed fruit, or jam of any kind. When the latter is used, a little of it may be placed around the dish in small quantities as a garnish. Quaking Pudding. — Well beat eight eggs, add to them the grated crumbs of a stale bread roll, two spoonfuls of ground rice, a little nutmeg, and orange flower water. Mix it smoothly together with a quart of new milk, put it into a floured cloth, tie it rather loose, plunge it into boiling water, and boil it briskly for one hour. Serve with red or white wine sauce. Pennsylvania Pudding. — Three eggs, one tea- cupful of sugar, quarter of a pound of butter, three- quarters of a cup of new milk, two cups of flour, one yeast powder. Bake in a quick oven three- quarters of an hour. Vaeiety Puddings. — ^Take a quarter pound of fresh butter and beat it to a thick cream, add four tablespoonfuls of fine flour, two ounces of loaf sugar, one ounce of candied peel, cut into thick slices, six sweet and six bitter almonds, blanched and cut 218 PUDDINGS AND PASTEY, lengtnways. Mix these ingredients together, form them into rounds, and bake them in six patty-pans. Blackbeeey Pudding. — On© quart of black- berries, six large apples, pared and cut in thin slices, half a pound of sugar, and three or four slices of lemon-peel. Make a light paste, line a deep dish, fill it with the fruit and sugar, and boil it slowly and steadily for one hour. Serve with grated nut- meg, sugar, and sweet cream. Eipe Goosebeeey Pudding.^ — ^Scald a pint of ripe gooseberries in very little water, when tender mash them in the liquor in which they were boiled, pulp them through a sieve, and add to them the beaten yelks of four eggs, a quarter of a pound of sugar, and a quarter of a pound of blanched sweet almonds, lightly chopped. Mix all very well to- gether, and bake it in a pie-dish, edged with a rim of puif-paste. Half an hour’s baking will do it. Serve with cream. Geeen Cuebant Pudding. — Take the currants as soon as they are large enough, pick them from their stalks, put them into a pudding-basin lined with a light suet crust, add plenty of sugar, cover them with a paste, and, if it is a pint pudding, boil it for two hours. A larger size requires to be boiled longer. Oeange Pudding. — ^Pound in a mortar three ounces of fresh butter and four ounces of lump sugar, grate in the rinds of two oranges (taking care not to PUDDINGS AND PASTEY. 219 allow any of the juice to escape); also the w^hole of a large or two small apples^ also grated. When thoroughly mixed, add four eggs, well beaten. Spread it to the thickness of half an inch of puflP- paste. Bake quickly. Almond Pudding. — Half a pound of blanched almonds, four ounces of white sugar, six tablespoon- fuls of rose water, half a pint of sweet cream, three eggs, a little jgrated lemon-peel. Put the almonds in a mortar and put a few spoonfuls of sugar on them, and rub them fine ; then add the rosewater, beat the remaining sugar and the eggs together separate, and then add them to the mixture in the mortar. When all are well mixed, warm a little, then put a little crust around the edges or sides, and bake half an hour. CiTEON Pudding.— Take one half pint of cream, one tablespoonful of flour, two ounces of white sugar, and a little grated nutmeg. Mix all these ingredi- ents together with the well beaten yelks of three eggs. Cut two ounces of citron into thin slices, place pieces of it in small buttered moulds or cups, fill them with the mixture, and bake until the pud- ding assumes a light brown color. This quantity will make five puddings, which are sufficient for a side dish. SuppEE Pudding. — Line a basin with slices of stale bread, cut half an inch thick ; boil some fruit (currants are the best, naixed with raspberries) with 220 PUDDINGS AND PASTEY. sugar as for compote, pour it boiling into the basin, cover it with bread, and place a plate with a weight upon it, let it stand in a cold place all night ; serve as soon as turned out. Cream may be eaten with it, or a whipped cream poured over it. Pekipatetic Pudding. — Six sponge cakes, six eggs, a quarter of a pound of sifted sugar, half a pound of fresh butter, half a pound of marmalade, two glasses of sweet wine. Well miff, these ingre- dients, paper the tin, and bake it about half an hour. Foetunatus Pudding.— Two eggs and their weight in butter and loaf sugar, melt the butter a little, and beat well together. Line the dish with puff-paste and lay some fruit jam upon it ; pour the batter in, and bake a quarter of an hour or twenty minutes. Teanspaeent Pudding. — Beat eight eggs very well, put them into a stewpan with half a pound of sugar, pounded fine, the same quantity of butter, and some nutmeg, grated. Set it on the fire, and keep stirring it till it thickens. Then set it in a basin to cool, put a rich puff-paste round the edge of the dish, pour in your pudding, and bake it in a moderate oven. It will eat light and clear. You may add candied orange or citron, if preferred. Ceeam Pudding. — Boil a quart of cream with a blade of mace and half a nutmeg, grated ; let it cool, and beat up eight eggs and three whites. Strain PUDDINGfc AND PASTDY. 221 them well^ and mix a spoonful of flour into them ; also a quarter of a pound of almonds, blanched and beaten fine, with a spoonful of orange flower or rose water. Then by degrees mix in the cream and beat all well together. Take a thick cloth, wet it, and flour it well, pour in the mixture, tie it close, and boil in half an hour. Let the water boil fast. When it is done, turn it into the dish, pour melted butter over with a little sack, and throw fine sugar all over. Chocolate Ckeam Custard Pudding. — Scrape a quarter of a pound of the best chocolate, pour on it a teacupful of boiling water, and let it stand by the fire until it is quite dissolved. Beat eight eggs lightly, omitting the whites of two. Stir them by degrees into a quart of rich cream, alternately with the chocolate and three tablespoonfuls of white sugar. Put the mixture into a dish and bake it ten minutes. Cream Tapioca Pudding. — Soak three table- spoonfuls of tapioca in water three hours, put the same in a quart of boiling milk, boil fifteen minutes. Beat the yelks of four eggs in one cup of sugar, stir them into the pudding five minutes before it is done, flavor with lemon or vanilla. Beat the whites of four eggs to a stiff* froth with three tablespoonfuls of sugar, put this over the pudding, and bake five minutes. A spoonful or two of prepared cocoanut in with the yelks and sugar is very good ; the cocoa- nut can also be sprinkled over the top, on the whites, before putting in to brown. 222 PUDDINGS AND PASTKY. RailwayPudding. — Flour, suet, sugar, currants, and raisins, of each ten ounces, grated potatoes and carrots, together ten ounces, one nutmeg, and two ounces of candied orange-peel, well mixed together and boiled for several hours. To be served with brandy sauce. Simple Bread Pudding. — ^Take the crumbs of a stale roll, pour over it one pint of boiling milk, and set it by to cool. When quite cold, beat it up very fine with two ounces of butter, sifted sugar sufficient to sweeten it, grate in half a nutmeg, and add half a pound of well washed currants. Beat up four eggs separately, and then mix them up with the rest, adding, if desired, a few strips of candied orange-peel. All the ingredients must be beaten up together for about half an hour, as the lightness of the pudding depends upon that. Tie it up in a cloth and boil for an hour. When it is dished, pour a little white wine sauce over the top. Bread Pudding. — One pint of grated bread crumbs, one quart of milk, yelks of six eggs, well beaten, one grated lemon, and sugar to taste. Bake. When cold spread a layer of jelly over the top, then make an icing of the whites of the eggs and white sugar, and spread smoothly over the jelly. To be eaten cold without sauce. Brown Bread Pudding. — Take half a pound of good brown bread without crust, cut it into mod- erately thin slices, spread them over with cream, lay PUDDINGS AND PASTEY. 223 them in a buttered dish, strew finely shred candied citron-peel between each slice, boil half a pint of new milk, add some sugar and cinnamon, pour it over the bread, and when nearly cold, beat three eggs and pour into the dish. Bake for half an hour in a moderately heated oven. Steamed Bkead and Buttee Pudding. — ^Lay your bread and butter in a pudding-basin, with layers of fruit jam between ; add a custard as for a baked pudding, and then steam it. When served pour a custard over it. Souffle Pudding. — Put six ounces of corn flour into a stewpan with eight ounces of pounded loaf sugar, mix these smoothly together, add four ounces of fresh butter and a few drops of essence of vanill^ ; stir briskly over the fire until it boils, and then work in vigorously six yelks of eggs and the six whites whisked into a firm froth. They are to be slightly incorporated with the batter, which must then be poured into a buttered dish. Peince Albeet Pudding. — ^Half a pound of bread crumbs, half a pound of sugar, half a pound of butter, six eggs, beaten separately, juice of one lemon, rinds of two, grated, one wineglass of brandy, four tablespoonfuls of any kind of preserves. Steam the pudding in a mould one hour and a half. Wine sauce. Geeman Pudding. — ^Boil twelve good-sized po- tatoes, peel them, and crush them thoroughly. Put 15 224 PUDDINGS AND PASTEY. them into a saucepan, with salt and a little lemon- peel ; put it on the fire and stir all well whilst you add a piece of fresh butter and a little cream and sugar. When quite hot, take the saucepan from the fire, let the mixture cool a little, and then add a tablespponful of orange flower water, four whole eggs, and the yelks of four more. Mix all well together, and put into a mould which has previously had a slight coating of butter and bread crumbs. Bake it, and bring it hot to table. Syllabub Pudding. — Well beat your eggs, add to them six ounces of pounded and sifted loaf sugar, a glass of brandy, a glass of white wine, and suffi- cient flour to make it a very stiff batter. Have a quart of milk, warm from the cow, poured upon it while you continue beating, and when it is well frothed, put it into a buttered dish, place it in a quick oven, and bake it for a quarter of an hour. Serve immediately. Bird^s Nest Pudding. — Peel tart apples, take out the cores, leaving the apples whole. Make a custard of eight well beaten eggs, half a pint of cream, and a pint and a half of scalded milk, thick- ened with a heaping tablespoonful of flour and a little salt, but no sugar ; pour it over the apples. Bake twenty minutes. When the apples are tender the pudding is done. Serve immediately with but- ter and sugar, stirred to a cream. Omnibus Pudding. — Half a pound of flour, half PUDDINGS AND PASTRY. 225 a pound of 'beef suet, half a pound of currants, half a pound of raisins, stoned, half a pound of sugar, half a pound of scraped raw potatoes, and quarter of a pound of scraped carrots, mixed together, and spice to taste. Boil four hours. Biddle Pudding. — One pint of milk, four large tablespoonfuls of flour, four eggs. Butter the bake- dish, put it in the oven when you are about to dish the dinner, allowing twenty-five minutes for baking. Bring it directly from the oven to the table, or it falls. Sauce for the Above. — One cup of brown sugar, two tablespoonfuls of cream, one ounce of butter. Stir the butter and sugar thoroughly, then add a little of the cream at a time, to keep from sep- arating ; add wine to the taste in the same manner (not quite a wineglass). Let the mixture melt. It will be a white froth when done. Birthday Pudding without Eggs. — One pound of suet shred fine, half a pint of molasses, one pound of currants, one pound of flour ; to be mixed with boiling milk; add candied lemon, raisins, nutmeg, and bitter almonds to taste ; tie in a cloth, and boil five hours. Orris Pudding. — Boil one quart of milk and add five tablespoonfuls of fiour, a little salt, seven eggs (reserving the whites of three for the sauce), and one-half a cup of sugar. Bake about half an hour. 226 PUDDINGS AND PASTRY. Sauce for the Above.— Whites of three eggs beaten with one and a half cup of powdered sugar and a glass of wine. If persons are averse to using wine to flavor the sauce for puddings, they will find that any well-flavored jelly or preserve is a great addition to the sauce for plain puddings. Grandmamma^s Pudding. — Cut some moder- ately thin slices of bread ; butter a mould and line it with the bread. Next, cover the bread with jam or marmalade. Fill up the mould with slices of bread, candied-peel, or marmalade, and raisins, or jam, whichever may be preferred. Beat two or three eggs, according to the size of the mould. Mix with a little sugar and sufficient milk to fill the mould. Cover with a cloth, and boil for an hour and a half. Serve with wine or sweet sauce. West-Point Pudding. — One pound sheep’s- tongue chopped fine, half pound suet chopped fine, five ounces of sugar, one tablespoonful of butter, one pound of potatoes, boiled. Mix all well together and bake about four hours. Union Pudding. — Take one cup of white sugar, three tablespoonfuls of flour, two eggs, one grated nutmeg, and one good-sized cocoanut grated fine, tw^o teacupfuls of new milk and a tablespoonful of good fresh butter. Bake like tarts, without an upper crust Snow Pudding. — Half an ounce of gelatine, one pint of boiling water, three-quarters of a pound PUDDINGS AND PASTEY. 227 of white siigar^ the juice of two lemons. After it »s thoroughly dissolved, strain it ; as soon as it begins to thicken, add the well-beaten whites of two eggs ; beat it for half an hour, and set it on ice, after putting in a mould or bowl. Make a rich, soft custard, flavored with the lemon-rinds grated. Send it to table in the middle of the custard. Peksian Pudding. — Take the pulp of six baked apples ; add to them one ounce of rice previously boiled in milk, and beaten smooth, one ounce of sifted sugar, the grated rind of a lemon, and a teaspoonful of lemon-juice ; mix these well together ; then beat the whites of four eggs to a fine froth, put in the other ingredients, whisk it all up quickly, put it into a warm mould, and place it in a tolerably quick oven ; when properly set, turn it out and pour around it a custard made with the yelks of the eggs remaining from the pudding. VAKIOUS KINDS OP PASTEY. In making pastry the cook should be particularly clean and neat. Her utensils should be kept in order, and when they are done with they should be carefully cleaned and put in their places Her paste-board and rolling-pin, let it be remembered, should, after using, be well scoured with hot water alone. She should not use soap or sand. A mar- ble slab is preferable to a board for rolling paste. Both are generally made too small to be convenient. Three feet long by two feet wide is a good size. In 228 PUDDINGS AND PASTRY. making a paste a good cook will have no waste of any kind, and particularly she will not make more at one time than she wants, under the idea that she can keep it in flour till the next time of making ; for it is ten to one but that the old paste will spoil the new. No flour except the very best can be used for fine descriptions of pastry, and in damp weather it should be dried before the fire. Clarified drip- ping, good lard, marrow, salt butter, well washed, may be used for ordinary pastry ; indeed, if they are pure and sweet they will form good pastry, with good flour and good management. In wealthy families, however, where economy is not an object, and everything for the table is required to be of the first quality, the safest plan is to use the best fresh butter. The fat that settles on stews, and on the broth in which meat has been boiled, may be used for pastry, that is, provided it is tasteless. Suet is sometimes used for meat pies, but though it makes a light crust, when hot, it does not eat well when cold. A great deal more butter, or fat of some kind or other, was formerly directed to be used in making pastry than at present. For ordinary purposes, half the weight of lard or butter is sufficient, but in the richest crusts the quantity should never exceed the w^eight of flour. Eggs may be added to enrich the crust. Use no more water or other liquid in making paste than is absolutely necessary, or, in other words, take care not to put out the miller’s PUDDINGS AND PASTEY. 229 eye,” that is, to make the paste too moist. The great thing is to incorporate the flour well with the fat, which you cannot do if you allow too much water or milk in the first instance. The under or side crust, which should be thin, should not be made so rich as the top crust, as otherwise it will make the gravy or syrup greasy. All dishes in which pies are to be baked should be buttered or greased round the edges to prevent the crust from sticking, and if there be an under crust, all over the inside, and the same must be done with tins or saucers. There is a number of other little things to be at- tended to in making pastry, which we will enumer- ate in as few words as we can. Fruit pies or large tarts should have a hole made in the middle of the crust. Flaky and Shokt Ckusts. — ^In making a flaky crust a part of the fat should be worked with the hand to a cream, and then the whole of the flour well rubbed into it before any water or milk is added. The remaining fat must be stuck on the paste and be rolled out. For crisp crust, by far the most wholesome, the whole of the fat should be rubbed in and thoroughly incorporated with the flour. Water or milk must be added when this is done, and the dough, or rather paste, made up. The pie-board and rolling-pin should be well dusted with flour, and the dough should be well beaten with the pin to thoroughly mix it, and render it 230 PUDDINGS AND PASTRY. light. Mind, in rolling out paste do not drive the pin backwards and forwards, but always keep roll- ing from you. In making flaky crusts the paste must be rolled out thin, and the fat or butter laid all over it ; then roll it up and beat it till it puffs up in little bladders ; it should be then finally rolled out and put in the oven as quickly as possible. Raised Crust. — Put two pounds and a half of flour on the paste-board, and put on the fire in a saucepan three-quarters of a pint of water and half a pound of good lard ; when the water boils, make a hole in the middle of the flour, pour in the water and lard by degrees, gently mix it with a spoon, and when it is well mixed, then knead it with your hands till it becomes stiff ; dredge a little flour to prevent it sticking to the board, or you cannot make it smooth ; then set it aside for an hour, and keep it cool ; do not roll it with your rolling-pin, but roll it with your hands, about the thickness of a quart pot ; cut it into six pieces, leaving a little for the covers ; put the left hand, clenched, in the middle of one of the pieces, and with the other on the outside, work it up against the back of the left to a round or oval shape. It is now ready for the meat, whicn must be cut into small pieces with some fat, and pressed into the pie ; then cover it with the paste previously rolled out to a proper thickness, and of the size of the pie ; put this lid on the pie and press it together with your thumb and finger, cut it all around with a pair of scissors, and PUDDINGS AND PASTEY. 231 bake for an hour and a half. Our good old country- housewives pride themselves very much upon being able to raise a large and high pork pie. This crust will answer for many meat and other pies baked in dishes or tins. Puff-Paste. — This paste is nearly the same as what we have called flaky crust, and of course made upon the same principles. If eggs are desired, allow three yelks to a pound of butter or lard. Eub a fourth part of the fat to a cream, then mix the eggs with it, and afterwards the flour. A very little water will suffice to wet it. Beat it with the pin to make it flaky ; roll it out thin three times, putting in a portion of the fat each time, and roll it from you ; after each rolling beat it well. SuPEBiOR Puff-Paste. — One pound of flour, one pound of good butter, the yelk of an egg well beaten, and the juice of half a lemon. The paste must be made with cool hands, and in a cool place. Put the flour into a pan, make a hole in the middle, and put in the egg and lemon-juice, then cold water — enough, together, to make a tolerably stiff, but not too stiff, paste. Eoll it out, and put a layer of butter over it in patches, sprinkle some dry flour over this (not that of the pound first weighed ; that should all be wetted), fold over the paste, flour your paste-board and rolling-pin, and roll lightly on one side until butter and paste are amalgamated. In this mai .ner continue to put on 232 PUDDINGS AND PASTRY. the butter, and roll out the paste until all the butter is used. The paste should be put on to the dishes in about three layers, and should be put into a quick oven to bake. Sweet Paste. — This is suitable to fruit tarts generally, apples, perhaps, excepted, for which we recommend a puff paste. To three-quarters of a pound of butter put a pound and a half of flour, three or four ounces of sifted loaf sugar, the yelks of two eggs, and half a pint of new milk. Bake it in a moderate oven. Crust for Savory Pies. — To two pounds of flour, one and a half of butter or lard, and the yelks of three eggs ; rub part of the fat to a cream with the eggs, then rub in the flour; wet with cold water, and roll out with the remainder of the butter. This crust is suitable for pigeon, rabbit, hare, and other savory pies. Icing Pastry. — When nearly baked enough, take the pastry out of the oven and sift fine powdered sugar over it. Replace it in the oven, and hold over it till the sugar is melted a hot iron shovel. The above method is preferred for pastry to be eaten hot ; for cold, beat up the whites of two eggs well, wash over the tops of the pies with a brush, and sift over this a good coating of sugar ; cause it to adhere to the egg and pie-crust; trundle over it a clean brush dipped in water till the PUDDINGS AND PASTRY. 233 sugar is all moistened. Bake again for about ten minutes. French Crust for Eaised Pies.— To every pound of flour allow half a saltspoonfiil of salt, two eggs, third of a pint of water, six ounces of butter. Spread the flour, which should be sifted and thoroughly dry, on the paste-board ; make a hole in the centre, into which put the butter | work it lightly into the flour, and when quite fine, add the salt ; work the whole into a smooth paste with the eggs (yelks and whites) and water, and make it very firm. Knead the paste well, and let it be rather stifi*, that the sides of the pie may be easily raised, and that they do not afterwards tumble or shrink. Pie Crust.— For Meat Pies : Take one pound of dried flour and rub into it six ounces of lard, six ounces of butter, a small quantity of salt, and a half teaspoonful of baking powder. Mix all these ingredients well together, and then use as much water as will make them into a nice stiff paste. Roll it out, let it stand for about ten minutes and then roll it once more before putting it on the meat. The pie should be baked in a moderately quick oven. For Fruit Pies : Take one pound of dried flour, and one pound of butter, well squeezed in a clean cloth, to get the salt out. Break the butter with your fingers amongst the flour, as fine as possible, and then with a little cold water mix 234 PUDDINGS AND PASTEY. into a tolerably stiff paste. Gently roll it, passing the roller in one direction only — from you. After this, lightly fold it over, and set it aside for a quarter of an hour in a cool place ; then repeat the rolling in the same manner, and let it stand another quarter of an hour. This is to be repeated once more. Be sure to handle it as little as possible, and to keep it cool. Bake in a quick oven. Faemees^ Pie. — Grate a good sweet pumpkin ; add to it sufficient milk to thin it like custard ; add four eggs, one teacupful of sugar, or sufficient to sweeten it to your taste ; add a little ground cinna- mon and a little cinnamon water ; mix all well to- gether ; make a crust like for pies, fill your shells, sprinkle them over thickly with pulverized cinna- mon. Bake with a moderate heat. Ceackee Pies. — Six soda crackers pounded and mashed in two cups of cold water for twenty min- utes, the rind and juice of two lemons, two and a half cups of white sugar ; mix well together ; bake in puff-paste ; this quantity will make three pies, and taste like green apples. Soda Ceackee Pie. — Take four soda crackers, grated fine, three cupfuls of warm water, quarter of a teaspoonful of tartaric acid, the grated rind of an orange, three cupfuls of sugar, three tablespoonfuls of butter, a little salt ; make a good short crust, fill it with this mixture, and bake in a quick oven. Oeange Pie. — Take the juice and pulp of six PUDDINGS AND PASTEY, 236 large sour oranges^ and the grated rind of four^ a little salt^ three cupfuls of sugar^ three eggs, four cupfuls of water, six spoonfuls of rice flour ; mix these ingredients well together; make a good short crust, and bake like other pies. Aunt Harrietts Pie. — To make the crust, take eight tablespoonfuls of fine flour, and four large spoonfuls of butter, and a little salt. Rub it finely like for other pies, then wet it up with water suffi- cient to make a crust or dough, roll out, and cover your pie plates, fill them with the following mix- ture : Take six tablespoonfuls of rice flour, mix it into a paste, with cold water, then add six table- spoonfuls of white sugar, twelve spoonfuls of warm water, and as much tartaric acid as will lay on a ten-cent-piece, and five drops of essence of lemon, make a thin top crust ; and bake like other pies. Washington Pie.-— One cup of sugar, one egg, one-third of a cup of butter, half a cup of sweet milk, half a teaspoonful of soda, one teaspoonful of cream of tartar, one and a third cup of flour ; flavor with lemon. Grease two round tins, and put this cake in. It will bake in a short time. When done, put on a dinner plate, and spread with nice, fine apple-sauce, then put the other cake on the top. This is very nice without sauce, still sauce im- proves it. German Puffs.- — ^One ounce of sweet almonds, blanched and pounded, with a dessertspoonful of 236 PUDDINGS AND PASTRY. orange-flower water. Then add two tablespoonfuls of flour, four eggs (but the whites of only two) beaten separately, one pint of cream, sweetened to taste with white sugar, and beat all very well. Bake this quantity in six large teacups, and serve very hot with butter and sugar sauce. Lemon Puffs. — Take a pound of finely-pow- dered loaf sugar, and mix it with the juice of two lemons, beat the white of an egg to a complete froth, then add it to the lemon and sugar, and beat the whole for half an hour, then well beat three more eggs, and grate the outside rind very fine from the peel of the two lemons you have used the juice of; add this and the eggs to the previous mixture, and well mix the whole. Sprinkle some finely-pow- dered sugar on a sheet of writing paper, and drop the mixture upon it. A moderate oven will bake them in a few minutes. Spiced Puffs. — Beat up any quantity of whites of eggs, adding white sifted sugar with any spices ; the puffs to be flavored with mace, cinnamon or cloves ; drop them from the point of a knife, in a little high towering form, upon damp wafer sheets, and put them into a very slow oven. Preserve Puffs. — Poll out puff-paste very thinly, cut it into round pieces, and lay jam on each; fold over the paste, wet the edges with egg, and close them ; lay them on a baking sheet, ice them, and bake about a quarter of an hour. PUDDINGS AND PASTEY. 237 Apple Puff. — Prepare some apples In the same way as for sauce ; while hot, beat them up with a small quantity of butter and a very little sugar; lemon-juice and sugar to taste. Take the whites of twd^eggs and beat them up with two spoonfuls of wine, one of cream, one of pounded sugar, and one of lemon-juice; when beaten' to a froth, put it on the apples. Egg Puffs. — Six eggs, one pint of milk, three spoonfuls of flour, four ounces of butter melted, and a spoonful of yeast ; mix, and All cups half full ; bake fifteen minutes ; wine sauce. Lemon Custaed Taet. — Squeeze the juice of two lemons upon half a pound of loaf sugar ; add the rind grated or pared as thin as possible. Boil the pulp of the lemons until tender in clear water. Beat and rub them through a sieve ; add them to the other ingredients ; pour in half a pint of white wine. Simmer all together for one hour ; gradu- ally mix in the beaten yelks of four eggs and whites of two. Strain into a tart dish edged with a rim of pufF-paste, and bake for twenty minutes. Lemon Pie, No. 1. — The proportions are two lemons, four eggs, two tablespoonfuls of melted butter, ten tablespoonfuls of loaf sugar. Grate the yellow rind of the lemon, beat together the rind, juice, sugar, and the yelks of the eggs until very light. Prepare a large tart pie, fill the pie with the mixture before baking the paste, and bake until 238 PUDDINGS AND PASTRY. the paste is done. Beat the whites stiff, and stir into them little by little one-fourth of a pound of sugar; spread it over the top, and bake a light brown. Lemon Pie, No. 2 {easily made), — Two lemons ; squeeze out the juice, and chop the lemons fine (take out the s,eeds); three. cups of water, three cups of sugar, one egg, two-thirds of a cup of flour ; beat the egg well with half a cup of water and the flour; then stir lemons, juice, and all together; this will fill three pies. Custard Cream Pie. — This is baked like a custard, but to be very nice, the edge of the plate should be layered with puff-paste ; make a custard of thin cream instead of milk, and bake it as a cus- tard. It must be eaten the same day it is baked. Cream Pie. — Take as much thick, sweet cream as will fill your pie-dish, to which add the